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/ 

BREAKFAST, DINNER 
AND SUPPER 

HOW TO COOK AND HOW TO SERVE THEM 

A COMPREHENSIVE TREATMENT OF THE SUBJECT OF COOKERY, ANCIENT AND 
MODERN COOKING UTENSILS, ETC., WITH ABUNDANT INSTRUCTIONS IN 
EVERY BRANCH OF THE ART — SOUPS, FISH, POULTRY. MEATS, 
VEGETABLES, SALADS BREAD, CAKES, JELLIES, FRUITS, 
PICKLES, SAUCES, BEVERAGES, CANDIES, SICK 
ROOM DIET, CANNING, CARVING, SERV- 
ING MEALS, MARKETING, ETC. 

INCLUDING 

VALUABLE RECIPES IN ALL DEPARTMENTS 

EDITED BY 

A SKILLED CORPS OF PRACTICAL EXPERTS 

TO WHICH IS ADDED 

Important Departments on the Preparation of Food for Infants and 
Advice to Housekeepers 

MARION HARLAND (1 ,.".\ 

TOGETHER WITH CHAPTERS ON INVALID DIET, MARKETING, CARVING, ^v^il gf WASHft^ 
WITH A PREFATORY PROEM BY 

ELLA WHEELER WILCOX , 
Profusely Illustrated 

* * 

New York 
GEORGE J. McLEOD & COMPANY 

45 VESEY STREET 
I. 




*\ 



.1 






& 



COPYRIGHT, 1897 
BY 

GEORGE J. McLEOD & COMPANY 



PREFACE 



HOW to cook, and how to serve what has been cooked, are vitally 
important and exceedingly complicated problems. On both these 
rocks many a household has suffered shipwreck. To buy food 
and spoil it in the cooking, or to cook food and spoil it in the serving, are 
either of them deplorable blunders. Nobody is fed and strengthened 
pleasurably by these failures, but somebody is sure to be irritated, and 
possibly sickened thereby. Cook good victuals well and serve well-cooked 
victuals temptingly ; then will the family board rival the hotel board in 
attractiveness, and the family boarder will be well content at home. 

How to cook and how to serve, are the two topics discussed in this 
volume. The suggestions here given are not such as an inexperienced 
editor might collate and combine in quantity, regardless of quality ; but 
they are the results of long and careful domestic experience in houses 
where these two arts were studied and practiced. Skilled housekeepers 
of large experience are responsible for every recipe and hint here given. 
They have tried and tested these matters of which they write, and happy 
is the young housekeeper who can profit by their wisdom. 

In order to profit thus, care is needed, and much study. This book 
on a shelf in the kitchen will not act as a charm to prevent burning the 
beefsteak or toughening the pie-crust. Nor will the mere reading of it 
transform the careless girl into a thrifty manager of home. The book 
must be read, studied and obeyed. _ Do the things here directed and 
realize the benefits here portrayed. " Practice makes perfect" — provided 
it be wise practice. Otherwise it spoils everything. 

Cook books are numerous, but it is believed this, the latest and best, 
will surpass them all. 

The spaces on the margins of the pages will be found valuable for 
notes on the recipes of friends. 

The Publishers 



There is no horizontal Stratification or society in this country like the rocks 

in the earth, that hold one class down below forevermore, and let another 

come to the surface to stay there forever. Our Stratification is like ihe ocean, 

where every individual drop is free to move, and where from the sternest 

depths of the mighty deep any drop may come up to glitter on the highest 

wave that volls. 

James A. Garfield. 



THE WAY TO THE HEART, 



By Ella Wheeler Wilcox. 



The woman who looks upon man as a sinner, 

Unsaved as to soul and uncertain of heart, 
Should learn how to cook and prepare him a dinner, 

And serve it with talent, refinement and art. 
Full many a question is solved by digestion ; 

Bad morals are caused oftentimes by bad cooks ; 
And many a riot results from poor diet, 

Conversion may lie in the leaves of cook-books. 

About the dull stalk of the thorn tree of duty 

Plant flowers of fragrance and vines of good taste ; 
Surround the coarse needs of the body with beauty, 

Make common things noble, make vulgar things chaste ; 
Put art in housekeeping ! nor think culture sleeping 

Because the base animal — man, must be fed. 
Delsarte should be able to speak in the table ; 

" Expression " may lie in a loaf of light bread. 

Though hard be the labor, the end recompenses ; 

Though weary the journey, reward is the goal. 
For the soul of a man must be reached through his senses, 

(As the senses of woman are reached through her soul. ) 
Speak first to his spirit, he never will hear it ; 

Speak first to his body, his soul will reply. 
The mortal man fare for, his appetite care for 

And L,o ! he will follow your footsteps on high. 

ENVOI. 

Eove born in the boudoir oft dies in the kitchen ! 

The failure of marriage, of starts in the soup. 
The stomach appeal to, and man's heart you steal to ! 

Would you rise to the last ; to the first you must stoop. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 









PAGE. 


PREFACE, 


POEM BY ELLA WHEELER WILCOX 






9 


PART I.— DOMESTIC COOKERY, 






15 


i. The Art of Cooking, 






17 


2. Soups, Soup Stock, etc., 






35 


3. Fish, Oysters, etc., 






46 


4. Poui/trv and Game, 






61 


5. Meats, 






70 


i. Beef, 






70 


ii. Veal, ...... 






76 


iii. Mutton and Lamb, 






82 


iv. Pork, ...... 






85 


6. Vegetables, ..... 






91 


7. Salads and Sauces 






102 


8. Croquettes and Fritters 






III 


9. Eggs, 






117 


10. Bread, Biscuit, Hot Cakes, etc., . 






126 


i. Bread, ..... 






126 


ii. Toast, .... 






!3I 


iii. Fancy Breads, ..... 






132 


iv. Rolls, ...... 






134 


v. Biscuit, Rusk, and Buns, 






136 


vi. Muffins and Waffles 






140 


vii. Griddle Cakes .... 






142 


viii. Yeast and Yeast Cakes, 






145 


11. Pastry and Puddings, 






148 


12. Creams, Jeujes, and Light Desserts, 






166 


13. Cakes and Cake Baking, 






179 


14. Fresh Fruits and Nuts, 






201 


15. Jei^ies, Jams, and Preserves, 






207 



VUl 



CONTENTS 



PAGE. 

1 6. Canned Fruits and Vegetables, . . . 219 

. 17. Pickles and Catsups 224 

18. Beverages 234 

19. Candies, 242 

20. Invalid Diet, 248 

21. Advice to Housekeepers' by Marion Harland, 254 

22. The Family House, 266 

23. Made Overs 273 

24. Hot Weather Dishes 280 

25. Preparation of Foods for infants' by Marion 

Harland 285 

26. Potted Provisions 292 

PART II.— HOUSE MANAGEMENT, .... 299 

1. Mareting, 304 

i. Beef, 3°5 

ii. Veal, 397 

iii. Mutton 308 

iv. Lamb, 310 

v. Pork, 310 

vi. Venison, ........ 311 

vii. Poultry, 312 

viii. Vegetables, . . . . . . . . 312 

2. Carning, 315 

3. Serving Meals 326 

4. The Bill of Fare. 334 

INDEX 349 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Unleavened bread ......... 19 

Ancient Egyptian oven ........ 20 

Ancient cooking utensils ....... 23 

Ancient cooking utensils ....... 24 

Ancient cooking utensils ....... 25 

Cutting of Beef ......... 305 

Cutting of veal ......... 307 

Cutting of mutton ......... 309 

Cutting of pork ......... 310 

Turkey properly trussed . . . . . . . 317 

Back of a fowl ......... 319 

Chicken properly trussed ....... 320 

Goose properly trussed ........ 320 

Breast of duck ......... 320 

Back of duck ......... 320 

Bird properly trussed . ....... 321 

Fore-quarter of lamb ........ 322 

Whole roast pig ......... 323 

Rabbit properly trussed ........ 324 



Domestic Cookery. 



THERE is a beautiful legend that tells how Elizabeth of 
Hungary, having been forbidden by her lord to carry 
food to the poor, was met by him one day outside the 
castle walls as she was bearing a lapful of meat and bread 
to her pensioners. Louis demanding sternly what she car- 
ried in her robe, she was obliged to show him the forbidden 
burden. " Whereupon," says the chronicler, " the food was 
miraculously changed, for his eyes, to a lapful of roses, 
red and white, and his mind disabused of suspicion, he gra- 
ciously bade her pass on withersoever she would." 

It would be well for some husbands if " their eyes were 
holden " in such a way that food served them would seem 
other and better than it really is. But the sense of taste is 
a rebellious member — especially in the men. It will cry out 
against the best appearing dish, if its flavor is not of the 
best. There is but one way to sure success. The house- 
wife herself must be the angel who casts the spell about the 
humble board and the lowly fare, and invests them with 
forms and odors of irresistible attractiveness. This is the 
true poetry of Domestic Cookery ; and blessed is the 
home where one presides who knows this art, and makes 
•each meal a feast, and every guest a glad participant. 

15 



16 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

But things do not always take so happy a form. For 
instance : there was recently a brutal murder in Troy, N. Y., 
and a paper, reporting the case, clumsily said : " A poor 
woman was killed yesterday in her own home, while cooking 
her husband's breakfast in a shocking manner." Quoting 
this statement, a contemporary remarked : " There are 
many women who cook their husbands' breakfasts in a 
shocking manner, but it is seldom that justice overtakes 
them so summarily." The subject is a serious one to joke 
over, but the turn given by the commenting paper is bright 
and suggestive. 

The fact is, that by skillful manipulation the plainest fare 
may be transformed into dishes fit for kings, while by igno- 
rance and inattention the best viands may be rendered unfit 
for human food. Which turn should housewives attempt to 
give their own culinary affairs ? There can be but one 
reply. But, be it remembered, that freaks of favoring for- 
tune, such as came to Elizabeth, come only to those who 
are zealously pursuing the line of helpful duty. There is 
no royal road to success as a housekeeper or a cook. You 
must " work your passage," but the way will be smoothed 
by careful study of pages such as follow, provided the study 
take shape in wise action. 

Remember, too, that the ministry of Domestic Cookery 
is by no means an unimportant one. It is worthy of the 
best attention of any housewife. 

" The stomach," says an eminent medical authority, " is 
the mainspring of our system ; if it be not sufficiently wound 
up to warm and support the circulation, the whole business 
of life will, in proportion, be ineffectually performed ; we can 
neither think with precision, walk with vigor, sit down with 
comfort, nor sleep with tranquility. There would be no 
difficulty in proving that it influences (much more than 
people imagine) all our actions." Dyspepsia is a fearful foe 
to the human race. 



I.— THE ART OF COOKING. 

THERE is a sciejtce and there is an art of cooking. The 
science tells what should be done and why; the art takes 
hold and does the thing, without, in most cases, knowing 
any reason why certain methods produce certain results. 
The one is theoretical, the other practical ; the one deals 
with principles, the other with performances. 

The science of cookery proceeds on the basis that man 
needs certain elements of repair and growth for the various 
tissues of his body, that these elements exist in nature in 
various forms, and that the mission of the cook is so to 
prepare these suitable substances that man may receive 
them in their most enjoyable and assimilable forms, and thus 
have his waste repaired and his growth provided for. This 
basis is solid. On it the whole culinary system is founded. 
But, from the merely utilitarian idea of repairing waste and 
supplying force, cookery rises to the supreme height of 
exquisitely delighting the taste while doing its most impor- 
tant work of feeding the body. Indeed, the art of cooking 
well, and of serving well-cooked victuals well, is "a fine art " 
in the best sense of the term. There are artistes in 
this line. Meals may be served artistically. They may 
become a delight to the most refined natures and a real 
benefaction to both body and soul. 

The great aim of all cooking is to retain all the valuable 
elements of the food, and to put them into such forms as 
shall awake desire, stimulate digestion, and secure to the 
eater, in the readiest and most pleasing way, all the nutriment 
these viands afford. For instance, in cooking meats it is 
desirable to retain all the natural juices. To this end, when 
meat is to be boiled it should be plunged into hot water, 
which at once renders the outer part measurably impenetra- 
2 17 



18 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

ble, ana so confines the juices. On the other hand, if the. 
juices are to be drawn out for the -reduction of soup, it 
must be placed in cold water, and gradually warmed and 
slowly boiled, so as to allow the exudation of the juices. 
On the same principle, broiling and roasting, by quickly clos- 
ing the surface of the meat, retain the juices as well as the 
odors, and make the meat both juicy and savory. The re- 
tention of the fatty substances renders such preparations 
somewhat less digestible, however, than boiled food or lean 
meat. 

High art in cookery, as elsewhere, demands high rates of 
expenditure. Instructions on that grade alone would not 
meet the want of American homes. But high aims in this 
department are equally commendable with high aims else- 
where. So important a factor in domestic economy as cook- 
ing cannot be ignored and should not be treated lightly. 
Good food, well cooked and well served, goes far to make 
home happy and its inmates healthy. 

The chemical aspect of food and cooking may be left to 
the chemist and the physiologist. They will perfect the 
scientific aspects of the case. But the art of cooking, which 
teaches just how and when to do the right things, is for us 
to learn and to practice day by day. Such is the relation of 
stomach and brain on the one side, and of stomach and 
cook on the other side, that the cook becomes the sov- 
ereign, to whom many a brain mightier than his own 
bows in servile allegiance. 

What cookery was practiced in the garden of Eden his- 
tory does not tell. Vegetarians insist that permission to 
eat animal food was not given until after the flood (Genesis 
xi, 3, 4), when, by indulgence, man's appetites had become 
abnormal. If vegetable food only were used in Eden, and 
that mainly of the nature of fruits, but little cooking was 
needed, and the simplest forms would suffice amply. Ancient 
writers say that cooking came into use immediately on the 



THE ART Of COOKING. \§ 

discovery of fire, whenever that was, and that its introduc- 
tion was in imitation of the natural processes of mastication 
and digestion. 

The 'first reference of the Bible to cooked food is to "a mor* 
sel of bread " (Genesis xviii, 5). Sarah, in this instance, made 
ready " three measures of fine meal," which she kneaded, 
and of which she made cakes " upon the hearth." These 
were, doubtless, the simplest form of unleavened cakes, 




UNLEAVENED BREAD, ANCIENT AND MODERN FORMS. 

flattened thin and baked upon a hot stone. A tender calf 
was hastily dressed on this occasion also, but whether by 
boiling or stewing, by roasting on a hot stone or by broil- 
ing over the fire on the point of a stick, is not known. Cer- 
tainly, the whole dressing required but little time and was 
not very elaborate. For these same guests Lot baked un- 
leavened bread, and, as the record is, " he made them a 
feast," quite hurried and simple, no doubt. 

When Abraham's servant, searching for a wife for Isaac, 
reached her father's house, " they did eat and drink," un- 
questionably in a festive way. Isaac was so fond of veni- 
son that he became unduly partial to his son Esau, who 
excelled as a hunter in capturing game for this dish. The 
preparation of the meat was in some elaborate style, which 
Isaac denominated " savory meat," and the eating of it so 
pleased him that he spoke of it as the meat " that I love," 
and asked it " that I may eat, and that my soul may bless 



20 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



thee before I die." Irreverent critics may say this was man~ 
like, but reverent ones will pronounce it quite human, and 
all may conclude that cookery was taking attractive shapes 
in that early day. So Esau thought, undoubtedly, upon see- 
ing his brother Jacob with a pottage of red lentiles. He was 
willing to sell out his birthright, with all its high preroga- 
tives, that he might eat of this tempting dish. All these in- 
cidents from the book of Genesis indicate that punctuality 
at the table and systematic forethought for its proper service 
were undeveloped arts at that time. Many later Biblical 
references indicate a higher state of culture in these respects, 
sumptuous fare and great feasts being matters of frequent 
reference. In the ceremonial law many directions were given 
concerning the killing and the cooking of animal food. 

Ovens are often mentioned in the Bible. In the cities and 
villages they were located generally in the establishments 
of bakers (Hosea vii, 4), or in large private establishments. 
Portable ovens were used by many who lived in a nomadic 
way. The portable oven was a large earthen jar, widening 
at the bottom, and having a side opening there by which to 
extract the ashes and to insert the bread 
or meat. These are referred to as the 
possession of every family, in Exodus 
viii, 3 ; though in time of destitution, or 
scarcity of fuel, one oven answered for 
many families, as Leviticus xxvi, 26> 
shows. These ovens could be hastily 
heated by a quick fire of twigs, grasses, 
etc., which fuel suggested the reference 
in Matthew vi, 30, to grass, which to-day 
is in the field and to-morrow is cast into 
the oven. Loaves or meat were placed inside, and thin 
cakes upon the outside of these ovens. 

The remote East, the land of spices, was the first to 
develop cookery in its higher ranges. Carefully wrought 




ANCIENT EGYPTIAN 
OVEN. 



THE ART OF COOKING. 21 

and highly seasoned dishes were first prepared there. Many 
curious notions are recorded of the various nations in re- 
spect to food and cooking. The universal custom in Oriental 
lands is to cook meat as soon as killed. It never becomes 
cold, as with us. Goose is a great favorite with the Egyp- 
tians. Plutarch says only one class of this nation would 
eat mutton, and at Thebes it was wholly prohibited. Pud- 
dings made from the blood of slaughtered animals were 
favored by Egyptians but hated by Moslems. Egyptians 
never ate the head of any animal. Pastry among them was 
worked into the shapes of animals, and was always sprinkled 
with caraway and anise. 

The Greeks esteemed cookery so highly, that royal per- 
sonages took pride in preparing their own meals. Homer's 
poems contain many illustrations of such service. 
Achilles once personally served up a great feast, its special 
feature being that smaller meats were garnished with 
entrails of oxen. It was common at great feasts of the 
Greeks to dedicate certain dishes to certain gods, and then 
to eat them in honor of those gods. 

In the time of Pericles a class of professional cooks had 
come into prominence who boasted that they could serve 
up a whole pig, boiled on one side, roasted on the other, 
stuffed with cooked birds, eggs, and other delicacies, and 
yet the whole so neatly done that it could not be discovered 
where the animal had been opened. Invention was then 
taxed to invent a new cake, or a new sauce, and he who did 
it was deemed worthy of high honor. One Greek distin- 
guished himself by devising a new method of curing hams ; 
another devised a cake which took his name and made him 
famous. In Athenian dishes, assafcetida was a populai 
ingredient, as were rue and garlick. 

To compound one famous dish, certain uninviting parts of 
sows, asses, hawks, seals, porpoises, star-fish, etc., were 
used. One visitor to Greece, having eaten a celebrated 



22 DOMESTIC COCKER*. 

" black broth." said he had learned why the Spartans were 
in battle so fearless of death, as the pains of death were 
preferable to existence on such abominable food. A Greek 
poet, Archistratus, traveled the world over to study the 
gastronomic art, and then wrote a poem, " Gastrology," 
which became the standard among Greek epicures. Greek 
cooks took special pride in so flavoring and disguising com- 
mon fish and meat, that epicures even would be deceived by 
their preparations. 

Roman cooking surpassed the Grecian in the more solid 
dishes, until the decline of the Empire began, when Roman 
epicures and gluttons came to the front and soon surpassed 
the world. Fishes, birds, and wines were their chief delica- 
cies, and to secure those of rarest quality the known world 
was laid under contribution. There is record of a single 
feast at which were served peacocks from Samos, chickens 
from Phrygia, kids from Melos, cranes from /Etolia, tunny 
fishes from Chalcedon, pikes from Pessinus, oysters from 
Tarentum, mussels from Chios, dates from Egypt, and inci- 
dentals from as many more points. Snails were fattened 
for table uses till their shells would contain a quart ; fishes 
and birds were fed on the choicest dainties to prepare them 
for human food, while even hogs were fattened on whey 
and dates. 

Lucullus was in the habit of spending fifty thousand 
denarii (about eight thousand dollars) on each of his sump- 
tuous feasts. Galba's daily breakfasts were each of sufficient 
cost to feed a hundred families. Vitellius made a single 
dish of pheasants' brains, peacocks' brains, nightingales' 
tongues, and livers of the rarest fishes. Its cost was one 
thousand sesterces (about forty thousand dollars). On 
another occasion two thousand choice fishes and seven 
thousand rare birds were served by him. It is said his 
kitchen expenses for four months amounted to twenty-five 
aiillion dollars. 



THE ART OF COOKING. 



25 



Heliogabalus had a favorite dish for his own suppers 
•made from the brains of six hundred thrushes. Pork was 
the choice Roman dish at a later day. It was often served 
in the famous style already referred to, being half baked, 




ANCIENT ROMAN COOKING UTENSILS. 

i. Sugar, or Vegetable Boiler. 2. Frying Pan. 3. Measuring Urn. 4. Boiler, on 

Tripod. 

half boiled, and stuffed with birds, eggs, etc. The process 
of this preparation was long a profound and marvelous 
secret. It was accomplished, however, by bleeding the 
animal under the shoulder, removing the intestines by the 



24 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



throat, and refilling by the same passage. The upper side 
was then baked while the lower lay imbedded in a thick 
paste of barley meal mixed with wine and oil. The paste 
was then removed and the lower side boiled in a shallow 
saucepan. 




ANCIENT ROMAN COOKING UTENSILS, 

I. Measure for Grain. 2. Kitchen Boiler. 3. Fire Grate. 4. Pitcher, or Urn, for 

Fluids. 

Cooking utensils were elaborately made for the homes of 
the rich. The finest grades were made of bronze, and 
usually they were plated with silver. Some articles were 
of brass, others even of silver. Kitchens were royal apart- 
ments then, many of them having marble floors and being 
decorated with costly paintings. Even the aspirations of 



THE ART OF COOKING. 



25 



our modern " help " would have been gratified fully by the 
kitchen appointments of those days. Schools of cookery, 
under the most accomplished professional care, were nu- 
merous at that time. 

One of the most princely pieces of extravagance ever 
brought out by good cooking was in the case of Antony. 
When Cleopatra praised a repast he furnished, Antony at 
once called the cook and presented him with a city. An- 
other piece of extravagance was when Lucullus entertained 




ANCIENT ROMAN COOKING UTENSILS. 

I. Bowl. 2. Soup Pot. 3. Grater. 4. Measure for Fluids. 5. Cook's Knife 

«■ — 6. Hashing Knife. 

Cicero and Pompey. They three partook of a little feast 
which cost not less than five thousand dollars. Geta in- 
sisted on as many courses at his state dinners as there were 
letters in the alphabet, and each course was required to 
contain every viand known, the name of which began with 
that letter, Alexander the Great once entertained ten 
thousand guests, all of whom were seated at the tables at 
one time, and in silver chairs upholstered with purple. Pos- 
sibly the most extensive "spread" ever made was by the 
Earl of Warwick when his brother was installed Arch- 



2(j DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

bishop of York in 1479. The recor d of its appointments is 
as follows : 300 quarters of wheat, 300 tuns of ale, 104 tuns 
of wine, I pipe of spiced wine, 10 fat oxen, 6 wild bulls, 300 
pigs, 1,004 sheep, 300 hogs, 3,000 calves, 300 capons, 100 
peacocks, 200 cranes, 200 kids, 2,000 chickens, 4,000 pig- 
eons, 4,000 rabbits, 4,000 ducks, 204 bitterns, 400 herons, 
200 pheasants, 500 partridge, 5,000 woodcocks, 400 plovers, 
100 curlews, 100 quails, 100,000 eggs, 200 roes, 4,000 roe- 
bucks, 155 hot venison pasties and 4,000 of them cold, 
1,000 dishes of jellies, 2,000 hot custards and 4,000 of them 
cold, 400 tarts, 300 pikes, 300 bream, 8 seals, and 4 por- 
poises. The Earl in person was steward; 1,000 servitors, 
62 chief cooks, and 515 under cooks and scullions offi- 
ciated on this monster occasion. 

. After the fifth century it is said that " cookery, like learn- 
ing, retired into convents." For several centuries religious 
houses alone were the abodes of good cooking. In the 
tenth century the art reappeared among the wealthier citizens 
of Italy. Discoveries of new countries and the increasing 
activity of commerce continually enlarged the field for gas- 
tronomic delights. Italy, the leader in fine cookery in those 
days, began to send her methods and her cooks into France, 
where they received a hearty welcome from Catharine de 
Medici and her royal spouse. Under these fostering im- 
pulses several cities became famous for specialties in food ; 
Hamburg, for example, for hams, Strasburg for sausages, 
Amsterdam for herrings, Ostend for oysters, Chartres for 
pies, etc., etc. 

The ancient Britons and Saxons knew none of the refine- 
ments of the culinary art. Their meal was simple bruised 
barley ; their meat, half-cooked game. The Danes did 
more at drinking than at eating, at brewing than at baking. 
The Normans, however, introduced the better styles of food 
and the cook again loomed up grandly. So great was 
xhe excess of these times that the friars of St. Swithin's com- 



THE ART OF COOKING. 27 

plained to King Henry II that three of their thirteen regu- 
lar dinner courses had been withheld from them by their 
abbot. Cranmer ordered, in 1541, that archbishops should 
be limited to six dishes of meat daily, bishops to five, and 
lower orders of clergy to four, or three in certain cases. 
The poultry to be used was also limited, and the- fish. 

After the Crusades the higher classes of England imitated 
the luxurious methods they had learned abroad. Peacocks be- 
came a favorite dish. They were usually served with the 
tail feathers remaining and spread to their fullest extent. In 
the reign of Elizabeth cooks reached the zenith of their 
power, many classical scholars willingly espousing this pro- 
fession. 

The early inhabitants of France subsisted chiefly on roots 
and acorns. After their subjugation by Caesar they quickly 
took on the Roman methods, and later the Norman methods, 
until in the fourteenth century they produced Taillevant, 
the greatest cook of history. In the reign of Louis XII a 
company was chartered to make sauces and another to cook 
meats on the spit. These were the days when fancy cook- 
ing ran toward the impossible. Eggs cooked on the spit, 
butter fried, roasted, etc., were the surprising delicacies 
produced by the masters of gastronomy. 

In the days of Louis XIV cookery in France was at its 
height of sumptuousness. A reaction in favor of modera- 
tion then began to prevail. Cooks were out of employment. 
Restaurants then appeared under their care, and they soon 
found abundant patronage. Careme, of France, is con- 
fessedly the greatest of modern French cooks. He has 
exalted the science of cookery while he has nobly advanced 
the art. 

There are several national or provincial dishes which are 
well known; for example, the roast beef and plum pudding 
of England ; the sauerkraut of Germany ; the salt beef of 
Holland ; the pillau of Turkey (made of rice and mutton 



28 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

fat) ; the macaroni of Italy ; the potatoes of Ireland ; the 
oat-meal of Scotland ; the pork and beans and the pumpkin 
pie of New England. 

Books on the science and the art of cookery are 
numerous. The oldest dates from the last half of the four- 
teenth century. It is from a Frenchman, Le Sage, who has 
blended moral maxims and culinary recipes in a wonderful 
manner. The next in order is from Taillevant, already 
referred to, dated 1392. Scappi, chief cook to Pope Pius 
V, published a valuable book on cookery in 1570. So have 
they been multiplied as the years have rolled by, and one 
who is not an expert in cookery cannot lay his defect at the 
door of authors or publishers. 

But books are not sufficient to elevate a people. There 
must be instruction, by which the text-books may be ex- 
pounded and their lessons be illustrated to the masses. The 
art of cookery must be learned, as are the other arts. There 
are those who say that domestic cooking should be learned 
in the home — that the mother should teach the daughters, 
and that skill and knowledge should thus be handed down 
from generation to generation. This is a splendid theory ; 
but if the mothers themselves are ignorant and unskillful, 
what then can be hoped for from the daughters ? Then, too, 
a fixed set of culinary traditions would be handed down in 
each family by this method, and the children would follow 
the ways of the parents, irrespective of better ways practiced 
by their next-door neighbors. 

In the face of these facts, it was not at all strange that 
schools of cookery arose centuries ago ; but it is strange 
that these schools were not extended in their scope, to in- 
clude others than professional cooks. They aimed merely 
to provide skilled help for the kitchens of royalty and 
wealth. This they did to perfection, but the common people 
knew nothing of the methods whereby their plain fare might 
be made more toothsome or more beneficial. It has re- 



THE ART OF COOKING. 29 

mained for this later day, this utilitarian age, to establish 
schools designed to furnish good, practical cooks for our 
homes, and to develop them from our wives and our 
daughters. 

This " cooking-school " movement arose in England. 
The working classes there were so sadly unskilled in 
using provision, and provision was so enormously costly, 
that the question necessarily arose, Is there no way where- 
by these masses can use what little they have to better ad- 
vantage ? How to make the most of what was in their 
kitchens was the practical problem. Schools of domestic 
economy then arose, under the patronage of benevolent per- 
sons, to promote the practical solution of this difficulty. 

The managers of the South Kensington Museum of Arts, 
in West London, made the first organized movement in this 
matter by establishing public lectures on the preparation of 
food, with platform demonstrations of various culinary 
operations. But the inadequacy of this course was soon evi- 
dent. Exposition and illustration were good, but practice 
was needed. Cookery is like music, in that the only way to 
do it well is to do it well. Lectures on the capabilities of 
the piano, though supplemented by brilliant illustration, 
could never make musicians, and the course inaugurated at 
Kensington Museum was not capable of making cooks. 
Practice schools soon became an admitted necessity. 

To found schools of this character was no easy task. 
Public sentiment was not up to the need. Teachers, text- 
books, and even pupils were wanting. It was unavoidably 
an expensive method of education, and no great names stood 
ready to back the movement. But the parties chiefly in- 
terested were determined, and they moved onward. The 
first organized classes for graded instructions and practice 
in cookery were formed in 1 874. These classes were open 
to all, but especial encouragement was given to those pro- 
posing to go out as teachers of this art. In this respect the 



30 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

work was a great success, and large numbers of cooking- 
schools have been formed in England. 

These schools employ a series of printed " lessons," 
suited for use in all the work in all the various grades. 
These lessons contained a list of ingredients needed for each 
dish, with their quantity and cost. Then followed a specifi- 
cation of the several steps to be taken, each distinct in itself 
and numbered. Nothing was assumed to be known ; 
nothing was here taken for granted, all was clearly specified 
and, if need be, explained. As trial showed defects in the 
several lessons, they were carefully revised, and at last text- 
books were issued. Every pupil learned what to do in each 
case ; then they did it ; then they kept on doing it until they 
could do it to perfection. As at " Dotheboys Hall," he whose 
turn it was to spell " scrub " was set to scrub the floor, etc., 
etc., so at these practice schools, she who studied " Irish 
stew," made Irish stew, and capped the climax by eating it. 

It is surprising that so diversified a company gathered in 
these schools. An observer of the Kensington Museum 
establishment says of the attendance : " There were cultivated 
ladies, the daughters of country gentlemen, old house, 
keepers, servants, cooks, and colored girls from South 
Africa, together with a large proportion of intelligent young 
women who were preparing to become teachers." 

It may strike one who goes over these lessons that there 
is a wearisome attention to trivial details. But it should not 
be forgotten that the chief difference between good and bad 
cookery lies just here. It is a prime point in cooking- 
schools to make each item so prominent that it cannot be 
overlooked. Strict attention to details is the corner-stone 
of the culinary art. 

Schools of cookery are now numerous in this country. 
New York, Philadelphia, and all the principal cities have 
institutions of this character. Text-books are numerous 
too. Eliza A. Youmans, Juliet Corson, and other ladies 



THE AR* 01 COOKING. 3] 

have nobly led the van of culinary artistes, and their man- 
uals are standards for cooking-schools. 

To illustrate the method of the cooking-schools, two 
"lessons" are here added, both on the making of Cabinet 
Pudding. The first is from the American edition of Lessons 
in Cookery, the handbook of the London school. 

LESSON :— CABINET PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — One dozen cherries or raisins, and two or three pieces of 
angelica. One dozen finger- biscuits and half a dozen ratafias. One ounce 
of loaf-sugar and fifteen drops of essence of vanilla. Four eggs. One 
pint of milk. 

Time required, about one hour. 
To make a Cabinet Pudding : 

1. Take a pint-and-a-lialf mold and butter it inside with 
your fingers. 

2. Take a dozen raisins or dried cherries, and two or three 
pieces of angelica, and ornament the bottom of the mold with 
them. 

3. Take one dozen stale sponge fingcr-bisarits* and break 
them in pieces. 

4. Partly fill the mold with pieces of cake and a half a 
dozen ratafias.^ 

5. Take, four yelks and two zvhitcs of eggs and put them 
in a basin. 

6. Add to the eggs one ounce of white sugar, and whip 
them together lightly. 

7. Stir in, by degrees, one pint of milk. 

8. Flavor it by adding fifteen drops of essence of vanilla. 

9. Pour this mixture over the cakes in the mold. 

10. Place a piece of buttered paper over the top of the 
mold. 

1 1. Take a saucepan half full of boiling water, and stand 
ft on the side of the fire. 

* To be had at the baker's. 

f For sale at all large grocery-houses. 



32 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

12. Stand the mold in the saucepan, to steam for from 
three-quarters of an hour to an hour. 

N. B. — The water should only reach half way up the mold, or it would 
boil over and spoil the pudding. 

13. For serving, turn the pudding carefully out of the 
mold on to a hot dish." 

The other " lesson " is from Miss Corson's Cooking- 
school Text-book. It is the method pursued in the New- 
York Cooking-school and its offshoots. 

LESSON:— CABINET PUDDING. 

INGREDIENTS. 

%\h. candied cherries, ..... 20 cents. 

2 oz. citron, .......4" 

^lb. macaroons, - - - - - - I 5" 

Sponge cake, - - - - - - -10" 

I pt. milk, ....... 4" 

y z oz. gelatine, ...----3" 

1 lemon, ....... 2 " 

3 oz. powdered sugar, ------ 2 " 

Total, ..... 60 cents. 

(i.) Soak the gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of cold water 
until it is soft, and then put it over the fire in a saucepan 
with the milk, sugar, and the yellow rind of the lemon cut 
very thin, and let it heat thoroughly, stirring occasionally 
until the gelatine and sugar are dissolved. (2.) Cut the 
citron in thin slices. Butter a plain pudding mold father 
thickly with cold butter, and ornament the bottom and sides 
by placing some of the fruit against them in some pretty 
shape. (3.) Place the remaining fruit and the cake in the 
mold in alternate layers, and then strain the milk into the 
mold. Set ii where it will cool and grow firm, which will 
be in four or five hours, and then turn it out of the mold 
and serve it cold." 



THE ART OF COOKING. 33 

Every city has its leading caterer, who illustrates, when 
opportunity offers, to what heights the gastronomic art may 
be carried. On special occasions great " spreads " are made, 
the cost of which will surprise the uninitiated. From two 
to five dollars per plate is an ordinary charge for these en- 
tertainments. Ten dollars for each guest is by no means 
unusual. Twenty-five dollars for each guest, the wines in- 
cluded, is a price often charged, and Delmonico, of New 
York, furnished a dinner to ten persons, the cost of which 
was estimated to be no less than four hundred dollars each. 

The dinner was given by a distinguished yachting-man, 
who insisted that the five men in waiting should be dressed 
as sailors. He furnished the suits, new and elegant. The 
guests drank, or tasted, every vinted liquor that has ever been 
brought to America — not that they drank every brand of 
wine, but every grade was represented. They finished with 
dipousse cafe made of eleven liquors. 

The bills of fare were a striking feature of the display. 
Before each plate sat a cut-glass basin, about twenty inches 
in diameter and four inches deep. Each was nearly filled 
with water, perfumed with ottar of roses, on the surface of 
which floated half-open pond lilies. In the basin a perfect 
model of the yacht owned by the gentleman who gave the 
dinner was placed. It was cut in red cedar wood, with 
cabin, rail, wheel for steering, brass work, such as belaying- 
pins, binnacle, etc., man ropes worked and trimmed with 
sailor knots, scraped pine masts and booms, rigging of 
silken cords colored as it would be in the prototype, and 
sails of satin. 

The sails carried the bills of fare. On the flying jib were 

the words : " Compliments of ," naming the giver of 

the dinner; on the jib the date and place; on the foresail 
was the name of the guest who sat at the place where each 
little vessel floated ; and on the mainsail was the menu. As 
the guest had occasion to consult his bill of fare, he used a 
3 



34 £> 0MES7IC CO OKER Y. 

little gold oar that rested on the fingers of a silver naiad 
who peered over the containing glass, and held out both 
hands to grasp the oar. After the dinner each guest either 
carried away his bill of fare or had it sent to his home. The 
bills of fare were supposed to have cost at least one hundred 
dollars apiece. Of course, the viands spread at such a table 
were the finest the markets of the world could afford. 

An artistic conclusion to an elaborate luncheon in New 
York is thus described by one who was there: "The last 
course was quite classic. A Greek would have appreciated it. 
It would have given him visions of Hybla and Hymettus, and 
their luxuriant growth of wild thyme. Everything was 
removed from the table except the ferns in the centre. A 
glass jug, some small glasses, and a plate of water crackers 
were brought in. The hostess poured out for each guest a 
tiny glass of metheglin. Any one who had forgotten the 
old reputation of this liquor and of what it was made would 
have been enlightened by seeing the jug. It looked like a 
honeycomb. Through the wax-looking cells painted upon 
its surface the liquor appeared like yellow honey. On the 
stopper was a black and gold bee. The caster, or tray, in 
which the jug stood was of glass also, covered with white 
clover and other heather flowers, which give the delicate 
flavor to Scotch and French honey. Such a finale seems to 
claim for America mention among those nations which 
Shakespeare describes as ' exquisite in their drinking.' " 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



II.— SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS ON SOUP STOCK AND SOUP MEAT, HOW 
TO PREPARE THEM, HOW TO ENRICH THEM, THICKENING SOUP, 
COLORING SOUP, FLAVORING SOUP, ETC. THIRTY-TWO RECIPES 
FOR SOUPS AND INCIDENTAL PREPARATIONS. 

THE first and great essential to making good soup is 
stock, or good, fresh meat. To make stock, take the 
liquor left after boiling fresh meat, bones large or 
small, the large ones being cracked, that the marrow may- 
be extracted, trimmings of meat, bones, and meat left over 
from a roast or broil, put any or all of these in a large pot 
or soup-kettle with water enough to cover them. Let them 
simmer slowly over a steady fire, keep the kettle covered, 
stir frequently, pour in now and then a cup of cold water, 
and skim off the scum. If it is fresh meat or bones, com- 
mence with cold water ; if cooked, with warm water. Bones 
are as useful as meat in making stock, as they furnish gela- 
tine. A quart of water is usually enough for a pound oi 
meat. Six to eight hours will make stock fit for use. Let 
it stand over night, then skim off the fat, put the stock into 
an earthen jar, and it is ready for use. 

Fresh meat should be freed from all superfluous skin and 
fat, which make a soup greasy, rather than rich. 

The glutinous substance contained in the bones renders it 
important that they should be boiled with the meat, as they 
add to the strength and thickness of the soup. The meat, 
however, should be cut off the bone and divided into small 
pieces. Place in cold water over a gentle fire and boil by 
the long and slow process, that the essence of the meat may 

35 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




36 



DOMESTIC COOKERY, 



be drawn out thoroughly. When it comes to the boiling 
point, throw in a little salt to assist the scum to rise ; then 
skim carefully to prevent its becoming turbid. When no 
more scum accumulates, and the meat is softened so as to 
readily separate with the use of the fork, it should be 
strained, the vegetables put it, the seasoning done, and the 
necessary amount of hot water added if too much has boiled 
away. 

All soup meats are better boiled the day before using, so 
as to allow the grease to chill over night, when it can 
readily be removed before putting over the fire again. 

The following thickening is almost indispensable to all 
good soups : A tablespoonful or more of flour mixed to a 
smooth paste with a little water, and enriched with a tea- 
spoonful of butter, or good beef drippings well stirred in. 
If it be necessary to add water to a soup, always use boil- 
ing water, as cold water injures the flavor. If making a 
rich soup that requires catsup or wine, let either be added 
just before the soup is taken from the fire. 

Soup may be colored yellow by the use of grated car- 
rots ; red with the juice of tomatoes ; green with the juice 
of powdered spinach ; brown with carefully scorched flour, 
kept ready for use. Onions are thought by many to be a 
necessity in all soups— that their flavor must lurk some- 
where, either defined or undefined. Their flavor may be 
much improved if fried until nicely browned in hot butter 
before being added to the soup. Potatoes should never 
be boiled with soup, because they add nothing to its flavor 
and are themselves injured by the long cooking. They 
should be boiled separately, and then added. 

A most desirable quality in soup is that no one flavor 
predominate over the others, but, that by a careful blending 
of the different ingredients it shall contain and harmonize 
all flavors. Soups and broths should always be strained. It 



SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 



37 



makes them more relishable as well as inviting to the eye. 
A slight acid, like lemon or tomato, gives a peculiar relish 
to some soups, as do many of the palatable condiments 
prepared by such manufacturers as Durkee & Co., Annear 
& Co., Cross & Blackwell, and several others, for this 
especial purpose. With such helps and a sufficient quan- 
tity of stock on hand, a choice, rich soup of any variety 
may be gotten up in thirty minutes. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




RECIPES. 

Beef Soup. — Boil a shin of beef, or a piece off the shoulder, 
slowly and thoroughly, the day before desiring to use it ; 
skim well the next day and thin the jelly, if necessary, with 
water ; add a little brandy, a grated carrot, two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter rubbed smooth in brown flour, a little vermi- 
celli, and spices to taste. Two or three eggs may be boiled 
hard, mashed smooth, and placed in the tureen before 
turning in the soup. 

Beef Soup, No. 2. — Boil a shin of beef of moderate size, 
■crack the bone, remove the tough outside skin, wash, and 
place in a kettle to boil with six or eight quarts of water. 
Let it boil about four hours, until it becomes perfectly 
tender, then take it out of the liquid. Add salt, one pint of 
tomatoes, two onions cut in small pieces, two turnips cut in 
quarters, one grated carrot, one large tablespoonful of sugar, 
a little sweet marjoram and thyme rubbed fine, one red 
pepper cut in very small pieces, also a celery top or a small 
quantity of bruised celery seed. This soup may be thick- 
ened according to taste either with vermicelli, macaroni, 
noodles, or drop dumplings. 

For an incidental side dish, take the soup meat that has 
been cut from the bones, chop fine while warm, season with 
salt and pepper, add one teacup of soup saved out befora 




MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




38 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



putting in the vegetables. Pack in a dish, and slice down; 
for tea or lunch when cold. 

Beef Soup with Okra. — Cut a round steak in small pieces 
and fry in three tablespoonfuls of butter, together with one 
sliced onion, until very brown; put into a soup kettle with 
four quarts of cold water, and boil slowly an hour ; add 
salt, pepper, and one pint of sliced okra, and simmer three 
and one-half hours longer. Strain before serving. 

Corned Beef Soup. — When the liquor in which corned bee£ 
and vegetables have been boiled is cold, remove all the 
grease that has risen and hardened on the top, and add 
tomatoes and tomato catsup and boil half an hour — thus 
making an excellent tomato soup ; or add to it rice, or sago y . 
or pearl barley, or turn it into a vegetable soup by boiling in 
the liquor any vegetables that are fancied. Several varieties 
of soups may have this stock for a basis and be agreeable 
to the taste. 

Ox-tail Soup. — Chop the ox-tail into small pieces ; set on 
the fire with a tablespoonful of butter, and stir until brown, 
and then pour off the fat; add broth to taste, and boil gently 
until the pieces of tail are well cooked. Season with pepper, 
salt, and three or four tomatoes ; boil fifteen minutes and 
then serve. This soup can be made with water, instead of 
the stock broth, in which case season with carrot, onion,, 
turnip, and parsley. 

Mutton Broth. — After the steaks have been cut from the 
leg, the lower part is just adapted for a soup. The neck- 
piece is also very nice. Boil the meat very gently in cold 
water, adding a turnip, a carrot, and a spoonful of rice. All 
the fat should be removed. Toward the last, add a little 
minced parsley. Dumplings are an excellent addition. 

Vegetable Soup. — Take two pounds of shin of beef and two 
pounds of knuckle of veal ; remove all the fat and break 



SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 



39 



the bones and take out the marrow ; put into a pot with five 
pints of water ; add a teaspoonful of salt, and then cover and 
let it come to a boil quickly ; remove the scum that rises, 
and set where it will simmer for five hours ; one hour before 
serving, add two young carrots, scraped and cut in slices, 
half a head of celery, and a small onion cut into squares; in 
half an hour add one turnip sliced, and in fifteen minutes 
one cauliflower broken in small pieces. 

Bean Soup. — Soak one and a half pints of beans in cold 
water over night. In the morning drain off the water, wash 
the beans in fresh water, and put into soup-kettle with four 
quarts of good beef stock, from which all the fat has been 
removed. Set it where it will boil slowly but steadily for 
three hours at the least. Two hours before it is needed for 
■use, slice in an onion and a carrot. Some think it im- 
proved by adding a little tomato. If the beans are not liked 
whole, strain through a colander and send to the table hot. 

Black Bean Soup. — Three pounds soup bone, one quart 
black beans, soaked over night and drained ; one onion, 
•chopped fine ; juice of one lemon. Pepper, salt, and Durkee's 
Challenge Sauce to taste. Boil the soup bone, beans, and 
onions together six hours; strain, and add seasoning. Slice 
lemon and put on top when served. 

Tomato Soup. — Take a knuckle of veal, a bony piece of 
beef, a neck of mutton, or almost any piece of meat you 
may happen to have; set it over the fire in a small quantity 
of water, cover it closely, and boil very gently, to extract 
the juices of the meat. When nearly done, add a quantity 
-of peeled tomatoes, and stew till the tomatoes are done ; add 
salt and pepper to. your taste. This is a very cheap, healthful, 
and easily made soup. 

Tomato Soup, No. 2. — Take one quart of tomatoes. When 
[boiling, add one teaspoonful of soda, two pulverized soda 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



40 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

crackers, one pint of hot water, one pint of milk, salt, and? 
pepper ; strain through a colander and serve hot. 

Green Pea Soup. — Boil the empty pods of a half-peck of 
green peas in one gallon of water one hour ; strain them 
out ; add four pounds of beef cut into small pieces, and boil 
.slowly for an hour and a half longer. Half an hour before 
serving add the shelled peas, and twenty minutes later half 
a cup of rice flour, salt, pepper, and a little chopped parsley. 
After adding the rice flour stir frequently so as to pre- 
vent scorching. 

Dried Split Pea Soup. — One gallon of water, one quart of 
soaked split peas, half a pound of salt pork, one pound of 
beef. Put over the fire, seasoning with salt and pepper, 
celery salt, salpicant, curry powder, marjoram, or savory; 
let it boil slowly for two hours, or until the quantity of 
liquor does not exceed two quarts. Pour into a colander 
and press the peas through with a spoon. Fry two or three 
slices of stale bread in butter till brown, scatter them in the 
soup after it is placed in the tureen. 

Corn Soup. — Cut the corn from the cob, and to a pint of 
corn allow one quart of hot water ; boil an hour and press 
through a colander; put into a saucepan an ounce of but- 
ter and a tablespoonful of flour, being careful to stir well to 
prevent it being lumpy ; then add the corn pulp, a little 
cayenne pepper, salt, a pint of boiling milk, and half a pint 
of cream. 

Onion Soup. — Slice ten medium-sized onions and fry brown 
in butter with a tablespoonful and a half of flour ; put into a 
saucepan, and stir in slowly four or five pints of milk and 
water (about one-third water) ; season to taste, and add a 
teacupful of grated potato ; set in a kettle of boiling water f 
and cook ten minutes ; add a cup of sweet cream and serve 
quickly. 



SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 



41 



Mock-turtle Soup.— Scald a calf's head and wash it clean ; 
boil it in a large pot of water for half an hour, cut all the 
skin off, and take the tongue out. Take the broth made of 
a knuckle of veal, put in the tongue and skin, with one 
onion, half-ounce of cloves, half-ounce of mace, half a nut- 
meg, all kinds of sweet herbs chopped fine, and three 
anchovies. Stew till tender ; then take out the meat, and 
cut it in pieces two inches square ; cut the tongue, previously 
skinned, in slices ; strain the liquor through a sieve ; melt 
half a pound of butter in a stewpan ; put in it half a pound 
of flour and stir it till smooth— if at all lumpy, strain it ; add 
the liquor, stirring it all the time ; then put to the meat the 
juice of two lemons, or one bottle of Madeira wine, if pre- 
ferred ; season rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne 
pepper ; put in a few meat balls and eight eggs boiled hard. 
Stew gently one hour, and serve in a tureen ; if too thick, 
add more liquor before stewing the last time. 

Mock-turtle Soup- No. 2.— Take a calf's head and about 
two pounds of delicate fat pork. Put both into a soup- 
kettle, with two onions, sweet herbs, celery, pepper, and 
mace. Fill the kettle with water, and boil very gently till 
the meat is tender. Take out the head and the pork, return 
the bones of the head into the soup ; let it stew several 
hours longer ; and, when cold, take off the fat, strain the 
soup, and thicken; add the juice of a lemon and half a pint 
of white wine. Cut up the head and pork into pieces ; warm 
them up in the soup, adding some choice meat balls made 
from finely minced, savory meat. The pork will be founa 
quite an addition to the soup and a substitute for the fat of 
the turtle. 

Gumbo Soup.— Cut up two chickens, two slices of ham, and 
two onions into dice ; flour them, and fry the whole to a 
light brown; then fill the frying-pan with boiling water, stir 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 





42 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 




it a few minutes, and turn the whole into a saucepan con- 
taining three quarts of boiling water ; let it boil forty min- 
utes, removing the scum. In the meantime soak three pods 
of okra in cold water twenty minutes ; cut them into thin 
slices, and add to the other ingredients ; let it boil one hour 
and a half. Add a quart of canned tomatoes and a cupful 
of boiled rice half an hour before serving. 

Southern Gumbo Soup. — Cut up one chicken, and fry it to 
a light brown, also two slices of bacon ; pour on them three 
quarts of boiling water ; add one onion and some sweet 
herbs tied in a bag ; simmer them gently three hours and a 
half; strain off the liquor, take off the fat, and then put the 
ham and chicken (cut into small pieces) into the liquor ; 
add half a teacup of sliced okra, also half a teacup of boiled 
rice. Boil all half an hour, and just before serving add a 
glass of wine and a dozen oysters with their juice. 

Julienne Soup. — Scrape two carrots and two turnips, and 
cut in pieces an inch long ; cut slices lengthwise about one- 
eighth of an inch thick ; then cut again, so as to make 
square strips ; put them in a saucepan, with two ounces of 
butter, three tablespoonfuls of cabbage chopped fine, and 
half an onion chopped ; set on the fire and stir until half 
fried ; add broth as you wish to make thick or thin ; boil 
until done ; salt to taste ; skim off the fat, and serve ; it 
takes about two hours to prepare this soup properly. It 
can be served with rice or barley. 

Macaroni or Vermicelli Soup. — Two small carrots, four 
onions, two turnips, two cloves, one tablespoonful salt, pep- 
per to taste. Herbs — marjoram, parsley, and thyme. Put 
any cooked or uncooked meat and its bones in enough water 
to cover them ; when they boil, skim them and add the 
vegetables. Simmer three or four hours, then strain 
through a colander and put back in the saucepan to reheat. 



SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 



43 



Boil one-half pound macaroni until quite tender, and place 
in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over it — the last 
thing. Vermicelli will need to be soaked a short time only — 
not to be boiled. 

White Soup. — Boil a knuckle of veal for three hours. Add 
a quarter of a pound of macaroni, and when done, a pint of 
cream. Season with lemon-peel and mace. 

Turkey Soup. — Take the turkey bones and boil three- 
quarters of an hour in water enough to cover them ; add a 
little summer savory and celery chopped fine. Just before 
serving, thicken with a little browned flour, and season 
with pepper, salt, and a small piece of butter. 

Chicken Soup. — To the broth in which chickens have been 
boiled for salad, etc., add one onion and ei^ht or ten 
tomatoes ; season with pepper and salt ; add Challenge Sauce 
or Salpicant, if desired ; boil thirty minutes ; add two well- 
beaten eggs just before sending to the table. 

Lobster Soup. — To boil a lobster, put it in a fish-kettle and 
cover it with cold water, cooking it on a quick fire. Remove 
the small bladder found near the head, and take out a small 
vein found immediately under the shell all along the back 
of the lobster, and use the rest. Two lobsters will make 
soup for six or eight persons, and salad also. All the under 
shell and small claws are pounded in a mortar to make the 
soup ; when pounded, put it into a pan and set it on the fire 
with broth or water. The meat is cut in small pieces, to 
be added afterward. The soup is left on the fire to boil 
gently for half an hour ; then put it in a sieve and press it 
with a masher to extract the juice. To make it thicker, a 
small piece of parsnip can be added and mashed with the 
rest into a pan, so that all the essence is extracted in that way 
from the lobster. When you have strained it put a little 



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butter with it and add as much broth as is required ; put 
some of the meat in the tureen and pour the soup over it. 

Clam Soup. — Wash the clams free from grit; boi] them in 
a pint of water till they will come from the shells easily. 
Take a small quantity of the liquor, add some milk, thicken 
it with a little flour, and add the clams. Split crackers are 
very nice added. 

Portable Soup. — Boil a knuckle of veal, also the feet, a 
shin of beef, a cowheel or any other bones of meat which 
will produce a stiff jelly, in a large kettle, with as much 
water as will cover them. Let it stand a long time over the 
fire before it boils. Skim it most thoroughly, until the 
broth appears entirely clear. Then fill up the kettle with 
hot water, and boil it eight hours, or until it has evaporated 
so as to be somewhat thick. Run it through a hair sieve r 
set it in a cool place where it will harden very quickly. Skim 
off every particle of fat, and return it to a saucepan ; skim 
and stir continually, so that it may not scorch, and all the 
previous labor be lost, until it becomes a very thick syrup. 
As soon as it can be no longer done in this way, transfer it 
to a deep jar, and set into a kettle of water, hot, but not 
boiling, until it jellies very thick. This will keep good 
many months, if packed dry in tin canisters. This is the con- 
centrated essence of soup, and is a most convenient article 
of use, either at home in an emergency or in traveling, and 
especially at sea. To make a pint of soup, cut off a piece 
as large as a walnut, dissolve it in the boiling water, and it 
is ready for use. 

Fluid Beef. — Among the advanced preparations of the day 
meat extracts are taking a high place. One of the finest of 
these preparations is " Johnston's Fluid Beef." It contains 
all the nutritive constituents of the beef, and is readily 
available for soups, sandwiches, beef tea, etc. For medi- 
cal uses, traveling, picnics, etc., it is very convenient. To 



SOUP STOCK, SOUPS, ETC. 



45 



use for soups and beef tea, add a teaspoonful to a cup of 
boiling water and season to taste ; or as a sandwich paste, 
it may be used on toast, with or without butter. Put up 
in cans of various sizes, from two ounces to one pound, 
which can be left open without injury to contents. 

RECIPES INCIDENTAL TO SOUPS. 

Meat Balls for Soup. — Take fresh cooked meat or fowl and 
chop fine ; season with pepper, salt, and herbs, and a little 
lemon ; mix together with an egg ; roll in bread-crumbs, 
and fry in hot lard. 

Browned Flour for Soups. — Dredge the bottom of a spider 
well with flour, and shake it over hot coals, letting it brown 
gradually, but not burn. Keep it in a dry place, in a tin 
canister, without wholly closing the lid. It is very con- 
venient to have it already prepared, although when used fresh 
it is much nicer. 

Home-made Noodles — a substitute for Vermicelli. — Wet with 
the yelks of four eggs as much fine, dry, sifted flour as will 
make them into a firm but very smooth paste. Roll it out 
as thin as possible, and cut it into bands of about an inch 
and a quarter in width. Dust them lightly with flour, and 
place four of them one upon the other. Cut them in the 
finest possible strips, separate them with the point of a 
knife, and spread them on the pie-board so that they may 
dry a little before they are used. Drop them gradually into 
the boiling soup, and in five minutes they will be done. 

Drop Dumplings.— Take prepared flour, add a little beef 
drippings or lard, well rubbed through, and moisten to a soft 
dough. With floured hands pinch off very small pieces and 
form into balls by rolling in the palm of the hand. In boil- 
ing dumplings of any kind, put them in the water one at a 
time. If they are put in together they will blend with each 
other. 



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III.— FISH, OYSTERS, Etc. 

HINTS CONCERNING FISH — TESTS OF FRESHNESS, HOW TO CLEAN; 
HOW TO DRESS, HOW TO BOIL FISH, HOW TO BAKE FISH, 
HOW TO BROIL FISH, HOW TO FRY FISH, ETC. FIFTY-THREE 
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH, OYSTERS, ETC., AND FOR INCI- 
DENTAL PREPARATIONS. 

FISH should be eaten as soon as possible after being 
taken from the water. In every kind of fish, the 
brightness of the eyes, redness of the gills, firmness 
of the flesh, and stiffness of the fins are indications of fresh- 
ness. Fish should be thoroughly cleaned as soon as prac- 
ticable. Great care should be taken to remove every atom 
of blood, to rinse carefully, and not to soak them longer 
than necessary. Fish are dressed in a variety of ways to 
suit different tastes — boiled, baked, broiled, and fried. The 
most ordinary methods are broiling or frying. In boiling, 
large fish should be wrapped in a cloth previously floured 
to prevent sticking, tied with a string, and covered with 
from two to three inches of cold water already salted ; from 
six to ten minutes per pound will generally be found suf- 
ficient for boiling. Remove from the fire the moment it is 
done, and place upon a sieve to drain. 

In baking fish, cleanse and wipe dry ; fill to taste ; sew to- 
gether ; place in a dripping-pan ; season with salt and pepper ; 
add sufficient water to baste with, or if a filling of oysters 
is used, baste with the liquor off them. The space between 
the fish and the sides of the pan may be filled with slices of 
raw potatoes one-quarter of an inch thick, and serve fish 
and potatoes together. A large fish will bake in an hour. 

46 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 



47 



For broiling, thoroughly cleanse and dry ; split open so 
that the backbone will be flat in the middle ; season with salt 
and pepper, and place on a buttered gridiron over a clear 
fire with the inside downward until it begins to brown, then 
turn over. When done, serve on a hot dish and butter lib- 
erally. 

Fish may be veiy nicely fried in hot lard with only a 
seasoning of salt and pepper, and a little flour dredged 
over it, or it may be spread with beaten eggs and rolled in 
cracker or bread crumbs before frying. Challenge sauce, 
Worcestershire sauce, and similar condiments upon fish will 
be found to give a most delicate and piquant flavoring. 



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RECIPES. 

Broiled Shad. — Scrape, split, wash, and dry the shad on a 
cloth ; season with pepper and salt ; grease the gridiron 
well ; as soon as it is hot lay the shad on to broil with the 
inside downward. One side being well browned, turn it. 
It should broil a quarter of an hour or more, according to 
thickness. Butter well and send to table hot. 

Baked Shad. — Many people are of the opinion that the 
very best method of cooking a shad is to bake it. Stuff it 
with bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, butter, and parsley, and 
mix this up with beaten yelk of egg ; fill the fish with it, 
and sew it up or fasten a string around it. Pour over it a 
little water and some butter, and bake as you would a fowl. 
A shad will require from an hour to an hour and a quartei 
to bake. 

Halibut Cutlets. — Cut your halibut steaks an inch thick, 
wipe them with a dry cloth, and season with sa*t and cay- 
enne pepper. Have ready a pan of yelk of eggs well 
beaten and a dish of grated bread-crumbs. PuJ some fresh 





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D OMES TIC CO OKER Y. 



lard or beef drippings in a frying-pan and hold it over the 
fire till it boils. Dip your cutlets in the egg, and then in 
the bread-crumbs. Fry a light brown ; serve up hot, 
Salmon or any large fish may be fried in the same manner. 

Baked Cod or Halibut. — Use a piece of fish from the middle 
of the back, weighing four, five, or six pounds. Lay the fish 
in very cold salt-and-water for two hours ; wipe dry ; make 
deep gashes in both sides at right angles with the back- 
bone, and rub into these, as well as coat it all over with, a 
force-meat made of the crumbs, pork, herbs, onion, and 
seasoning, made to adhere by raw egg. Lay in the baking- 
pan and pour over it the drawn butter (which should be quite 
thin), season with the anchovy sauce, lemon juice, pepper, 
and a pinch of parsley. Bake in a moderate oven nearly an 
hour — or even more if the piece be large — basting frequently 
lest it should brown too fast. Add a little butter-and-water 
when the sauce thickens too much. When the fish is done, 
remove to a hot dish, and strain the gravy over it. A few 
capers or chopped green pickles are a pleasant addition to 
the gravy. 

Boiled Halibut. — Take a small halibut, or what you require 
from a large fish. Put it into the fish-kettle, with the back 
of the fish undermost ; cover it with cold water, in which a 
handful of salt and a bit of saltpetre the size of a hazel-nut 
have been dissolved. When it begins to boil skim it care- 
fully, and then let it just simmer till it is done. Four pounds 
of fish will require half an hour nearly to boil it. Drain it, 
garnish with horse-radish or parsley. Egg sauce, or plain 
melted butter, are served with it. 

Boiled Rockfish. — After the fish has been nicely cleaned, 
put it into a pot with water enough to cover it, and throw 
in salt in the proportion of half a teaspoonful to a pound of 
fish. Boil it slowly until the meat is tender and easily sep- 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 



49 



urates from the bones. A large fish will require an hour tc 
cook. When done, serve on a hot dish, and have a few 
hard-boiled eggs, cut in thin slices, laid around it and over 
it. Eat with egg-sauce. 

White Fish. — This fish may be broiled, fried, or baked. 
To bake it, prepare a stuffing of fine bread-crumbs, a little 
salt pork chopped very fine ; season with sage, parsley, pep- 
per, and salt. Fill the fish with the stuffing, sew it up, 
sprinkle the outside with salt, pepper, and flour, and bake. 
In frying white fish, pour off the fat as it accumulates, as it 
is apt to be too fat when served. 

Broiled Salmon. — The steaks from the centre of the fish 
are best. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, spread on a little 
butter, and broil over a clear but slow fire. 

Smoked Salmon, Broiled. — Take a half pound of smoked 
salmon and parboil it ten minutes ; lay in cold water for the 
same length of time ; wipe dry and broil over a clear fire. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of butter while hot ; season with 
cayenne and the juice of half a lemon; pile in a "log- 
cabin " square upon a hot plate, and serve with dry toast. 

Boiled Salmon. — A piece weighing six pounds should be 
rubbed with salt, tied carefully in a cloth, and boiled slowly 
for three-quarters of an hour. It should be eaten with egg or 
caper sauce. If any remain after dinner, it may be placed 
in a deep dish, a little salt sprinkled over, and a teacupful of 
boiling vinegar poured upon it. Cover it closely, and it will 
make a nice breakfast dish. 

Baked Salmon with Cream Sance. — Butter a sheet of fools- 
cap paper on both sides, and wrap the fish up in it, pinning 
the ends securely together. Lay in the baking-pan, and 
pour six or seven spoonfuls of butter-and-water over it. 
Turn another pan over all, and steam in a moderate oven 



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from three-quarters of an hour to an hour, lifting the cover f 
from time to time, to baste and assure yourself that the 
paper is not burning. Meanwhile, have ready in a sauce- 
pan a cup of cream, in which you would do well to dis- 
solve a bit of soda a little larger than a pea. This is a wise 
precaution whenever cream is to be boiled. Heat this in a 
vessel placed within another of hot water ; thicken with a 
heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch ; add a tablespoonful of 
butter, pepper and salt to taste, a liberal pinch of minced 
parsley, and when the fish is unwrapped and dished, pour 
half the dressing slowly over it, sending the rest to table 
in a boat. If you have no cream, use milk, and add a beaten 
egg to the thickening. 

Salmon Steaks or Cutlets Fried. — Cut slices from the middle 
of the fish one inch thick : wipe dry, and salt slightly ; dip 
in egg, then in cracker crumbs ; fry very quickly in hot 
butter; drain off every drop of grease, and serve upon a hot 
dish. Sprinkle green parsley in bunches over it. The 
French use the best salad-oil in this recipe instead of butter. 

Pickled Salmon. — Soak salt salmon twenty-four hours, 
changing the water frequently ; afterward pour boiling water 
around it, and let it stand fifteen minutes ; drain off and 
then pour on boiling vinegar with cloves and mace added. 

Fried Perch. — Scale and clean them perfectly ; dry them 
well, flour and fry them in boiling lard. Serve plenty of 
fried parsley round them. 

Fried Trout— Wash, drain, and split; roll in flour, season 
with salt; have some thin slices of salt pork in a pan, and 
when very hot put in the fish and fry to a nice brown. 

Stewed Trout. — Clean and wash the fish with care, and 
wipe it perfectly dry ; put into a stewpan two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, dredge in as it melts a little flour, grate half a 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 



51 



nutmeg, a few blades of mace, a little cayenne, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt ; mix it all together ; then lay in the fish, let 
it brown slightly ; pour over some veal gravy, a lemon 
thinly sliced ; stew very slowly for forty minutes ; take out 
the fish, and add two glasses of wine to the gravy. Lay 
the fish on a hot dish, and pour over it some of the gravy. 
Serve the rest in a sauce-tureen. 

Fried Catfish. — Catfish must be cooked quite fresh — if pos- 
sible, directly out of the water. The larger ones are gener- 
ally coarse and strong ; the small-sized fish are the best. 
Wash and clean them, cut off their heads and tails, remove 
the upper part of the backbone near the shoulders, and 
score them along the back with deep gashes or incisions. 
Dredge them with flour, and fry them in plenty of lard, 
boiling fast when the catfish are put into the pan. Or you 
may fry them in the drippings or gravy saved from roast 
beef or veal. They are very nice dipped in a batter of 
beaten egg and grated bread-crumbs, or they may be done 
plain, though not in so nice a way, with Indian meal instead 
of bread-crumbs. Drain off the lard before you dish them. 
Touch each incision or cut very slightly with a little cay< 
enne before they go to table. 

Pried Eels. — After skinning, emptying, and washing them 
as clean as possible, cut them into short pieces, and dry 
them well with a soft cloth. Season them with fine salt 
and cayenne, flour them thickly, and fry them in boiling 
lard ; when nicely browned, drain and dry them, and send 
to the table with plain melted butter and a lemon, or with 
fish-sauce. Eels are sometimes dipped into batter and then 
fried, or into egg and dried bread-crumbs, and served with 
plenty of crisped parsley. 

Fish Chowder. — Take a fresh haddock, of three or four 
pounds, clean it well, and cut in pieces of three inches 



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square. Place in the bottom of your dinner-pot five or six 
slices of salt pork, fry brown, then add three onions sliced 
thin, and fry those brown. Remove the kettle from the fire, 
and place on the onions and pork a layer of fish. Sprinkle 
over a little pepper and salt, then a layer of pared and sliced 
potatoes, a layer of fish and potatoes, till the fish is used up. 
Cover with water, and let it boil for half an hour. Pound 
six biscuits or crackers fine as meal, and pour into the pot ; 
and, lastly, add a pint of milk ; let it scald well, and serve. 

New England Chowder, — Take a good haddock, cod, or any 
other solid fish, cut it in pieces three inches square ; put a 
pound of fat, salt pork, cut into strips, into the pot; set it 
on hot coals and fry out the grease ; take out the pork, but 
leave the grease in the bottom of the pot, and put in a layer 
of fish, over that a layer of sliced onions, over that a layer 
of fish, with slips of the fried pork, then another layer of 
onions and a few sliced raw potatoes, and so on alternately 
until your fish is all in ; mix some flour with as much water 
as will fill the pot ; season to suit your taste, and boil for 
half an hour ; have ready some pilot bread, soaked in water, 
and throw them into your chowder five minutes before tak- 
ing off; serve in a tureen. 

Fish-balls. — Two cupfuls cold boiled codfish, fresh or 
salted. Chop the fish when you have freed it of bones and 
skin ; work in one cupful of mashed potatoes, and moisten 
with a half cup of drawn butter with an egg beaten in. Sea- 
son to taste. Have them soft enough to mold, yet firm 
enough to keep in shape. Roll the balls in flour, and fry 
quickly to a golden-brown in lard or clean dripping. Take 
from the fat so soon as they are done ; lay in a colander or 
sieve and shake gently, to free them from every drop of 
grease. Turn out for moment on white paper to absorb any 
lingering drops, and serve on a hot dish. 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 



53 



Stewed Oysters. — Take one quart of oysters ; put the liquo? 
*a teacupful for three persons) in a stewpan, and add half as 
■much more water, salt and pepper to taste, and let it boil. 
Have your oysters ready in a bowl, and the moment the 
liquor boils, pour in all your oysters, say ten for each per- 
son, or six will do. Now, watch carefully, and as soon as 
it begins to boil take out your watch, count just thirty 
seconds, and take your oysters from the stove. You will 
have your big dish ready, with one and a half tablespoonfuls 
of cream or milk for each person. Pour your stew on this 
and serve immediately. Never boil an oyster in milk. 

Maryland Stewed Oysters. — Put the juice into a saucepan 
and let it simmer, skimming it carefully ; then rub the yelks 
of three hard-boiled eggs and one large spoonful of flour 
well together, and stir into the juice. Cut in small pieces 
quarter of a pound of butter, half a teaspoonful of whole 
allspice, a little salt, a little cayenne, and the juice of a fresh 
lemon; let all simmer ten minutes, and just before dishing 
add the oysters. This is for two quarts of oysters. 

Panned Oysters. — Have ready several small pans of block 
tin, with upright sides. Cut stale bread in thin slices, then 
round them to a size that will just fit in the bottoms of youi 
pans. Toast these quickly to a light brown, butter, and lay 
within your tins. Wet with a great spoonful of oyster liquid, 
then, with a silver fork, arrange upon the toast as many oys- 
ters as the pans will hold without heaping them up. Dust 
with pepper and salt, put a bit of butter on top, and set the 
pans, when all are full, upon the floor of a quick oven. Cover 
with an inverted baking-pan to keep in steam and flavor, 
and cook until the oysters " ruffle." Eight minutes in a 
brisk oven should be enough. Send very hot to the table 
in tins in which they were roasted. Next to roasting in the 
shell, this mode of cooking oysters best preserves theii 
native flavor. 



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fi£5$L 



.Roasted Oysters. — Take oysters in the shell ; wash the 
shells clean, and lay them on hot coals ; when they are done 
they will begin to open. Remove the upper shell, and serve 
the oysters in the lower shell, with a little melted butter 
poured over each, and season to taste. 

Oyster Toast. — Select fifteen plump oysters; mince them,, 
and season with mixed pepper and a pinch of nutmeg , beat 
the yelks of four eggs and mix them with half a pint ot 
cream. Put the whole into a saucepan and set it over the 
fire to simmer till thick ; stir it well, and do not let it boil, 
lest it should curdle. Toast five pieces of bread, and butter 
them ; when your dish is near the boiling-point, remove it 
from the fire and pour it over the toast. 

Cream Oysters.— Fifty shell oysters, one quart sweet cream ; 
butter, pepper, and salt to suit taste. Put the cream and 
oysters in separate kettles to heat, the oysters in their own 
liquor, and let them come to a boil ; when sufficiently 
cooked, skim ; then take them out of the liquid and put 
them into a dish to keep warm. Put the cream and 
liquid together. Season to taste, and thicken with powdered 
cracker. When sufficiently thick, stir in the oysters. 

Broiled Oysters. — Drain select oysters in a colander. Dip 
them one by one into melted butter, to prevent sticking to 
the gridiron, and place them on a wire gridiron. Broil over 
a clear fire. When nicely browned on both sides, season 
with salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, and lay them on hot 
buttered toast, moistened with a little hot water. Serve 
very hot. Oysters cooked in this way and served on broiled 
beefsteak are delicious. 

Fried Oysters. — Select the largest and finest fresh oysters, 
put them into a colander and pour over a little water to 
rinse them ; then place them on a clean towel and dry them 
Have ready some grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 



55 



pepper and salt, and plenty of yelk of egg beaten till very 
light ; and to each egg allow a large teaspoonful of rich 
cream or of the best fresh butter. Beat the egg and cream 
together. Dip each oyster first into the egg and cream, 
and then into the crumbs. Repeat this twice, until the 
oysters are well coated all over. Have ready boiling, in a 
frying-pan, an equal mixture of fresh butter and lard. It 
must very nearly fill the frying-pan, and be boiling fast when 
the oysters go in, otherwise they will be heavy and greasy. 
Fry them of a yellow brown on both sides, and serve hot. 

Oyster Salad, see Salads. 

Spiced or Pickled Oysters. — Put into a porcelain kettle one 
hundred and fifty large oysters with the liquor ; add salt, 
and simmer till the edges roll or curl ; skim them out ; add 
to the liquor one pint of white wine vinegar, one dozen 
blades mace, three dozen cloves, and three dozen pepper- 
corns ; let it come to a boil, and pour over the oysters. 
Serve with slices of lemon floating in saucer. 

Oyster Omelette. — Allow for every six large oysters or 
twelve small ones one egg ; remove the hard part and mince 
the rest very fine ; take the yelks of eight eggs and whites of 
four, beat till very light, then mix in the oysters ; season and 
beat up thoroughly ; put into a skillet a gill of butter, let it 
melt ; when the butter boils, skim it and turn in the ome- 
lette ; stir until it stiffens ; fry light brown ; when the under 
side is brown, turn on to a hot platter. To brown the upper 
side, hold a red-hot shovel over it. 

Scalloped Oysters, No. 1. — Open the shells, setting aside for 
use the deepest ones. Have ready some melted butter, not 
hot, seasoned with minced parsley and pepper. Roll each 
oyster in this, letting it drip as little as may be, and lay in 
the shells,which should be arranged in a baking-pan Add 



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to each a little lemon juice, sift bread-crumbs over it, and 
bake in a quick oven until done. Serve in the shells. 

Scalloped Oysters, No. 2. — Cover the bottom of a baking- 
dish (well buttered) with a layer of crumbs, and wet these 
with cream, put on spoonful by spoonful. Pepper and salt, 
and strew with minute bits of butter. Next, put in the oys- 
ters, with a little of their liquor. Pepper them, stick bits of 
butter in among them, and cover with dry crumbs until the 
oysters are entirely hidden. Add more pieces of butter, very 
small, and arrange thickly on top. Set in the oven, invert 
a plate over it to keep in the flavor, and bake until the juice- 
bubbles up to the top. Remove the cover, and brown on 
the upper grating for two or three minutes. Serve in the 
bake-dish. 

Oyster Pie. — Line a dish with a puff paste or a rich bis- 
cuit paste, and dredge well with flour ; drain one quart of 
oysters ; season with pepper, salt, and butter, and pour into 
the dish; add some of the liquor; dredge with flour, and 
cover with a top crust, leaving a small opening in the 
centre. Bake in a quick oven. 

Oyster Patties. — Put one quart of oysters in a saucepan,, 
with liquor enough to cover them, set it on the stove and 
let them come to a boil ; skim well, and stir in two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, a little pepper, and salt. Line some 
patty-pans with puff-paste, fill with oysters, cover with paste, 
and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. The upper crust 
may be omitted, if desired. 

Oyster Macaroni. — Boil macaroni in a cloth to keep it 
straight. Put a layer in a dish seasoned with pepper, salt, 
and butter, then a layer of oysters, until the dish is full. 
Mix some grated bread with a beaten egg, spread over the 
top, and bake. 

Oyster Sauce, see Sauces. 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 



57 



Boiled Lobster. — If purchased alive, lobsters should be 
chosen by weight (the heaviest are the best) and their live- 
liness and briskness of motion. When freshly boiled they 
are stiff, and their tails turn strongly inward ; when the fish 
appear soft and watery, they are stale. The flesh of the 
male lobster is generally considered of the finest flavor for 
eating, but the hen lobster is preferred for sauce and soups, 
on account of the coral. 

To properly boil lobsters, throw them living into a kettle 
of fast-boiling salt and water, that life may be destroyed in 
an instant. Let them boil for about half an hour. When 
done, take them out of the kettle, wipe them clean, and rub 
the shell with a little salad-oil, which will give a clear red 
appearance. Crack the large claws without mashing them, 
and with a sharp knife split the body and tail from end to 
end. The head, which is never eaten, should also be sepa- 
rated from the body, but laid so near it that the division is 
almost imperceptible. Dress in any way preferred. 

Deviled Lobster. — Procure a live, heavy lobster; put it in 
a pot of boiling water, with a handful of salt to it. When 
done and cold, take out all the meat carefully, putting the 
fat and coral on separate plates ; cut the meat in small 
pieces, rub the coral to a paste ; stir the fat in it, with a little 
salt, cayenne, chopped parsley, essence of anchovies, and 
salad-oil, or melted butter and lemon juice ; cut the back of 
the lobster-shell in two, lengthwise ; wash clean ; stir the 
lobster and sauce well together ; fill the shells ; sprinkle 
bread-crumbs and a few bits of butter over the top ; set in 
the oven until the crumbs are brown. 

Stewed Lobster. — A middling-sized lobster is best; pick- 
all the meat from the shells and mince it fine ; season with 
a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; add three or four 
spoonfuls of rich gravy and a small bit of butter. If you 



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have no gravy, use more butter and two spooniuls ol 
vinegar ; stew about twenty minutes. 

Lobster Salad, see Salads. 

Lobster Croquettes, see Croquettes. 

Lobster Sauce, see Sauces. 

Lobster Patties. — Proceed as in oyster patties, but use the 
meat of a cold boiled lobster. 

Terrapins. — Put the terrapins into a pot of boiling water, 
where they must remain until they are quite dead. You 
then divest them of their outer skin and toe-nails ; and, 
after washing them in warm water, boil them again until 
they become quite tender, adding a handful of salt to the 
water. Having satisfied yourself of their being perfectly 
tender, take off the shells and clean the terrapins very care- 
fully, removing the sandbag and gall without by any means 
breaking them. Then cut the meat into small pieces and put 
into a saucepan, adding the juice which has been given out 
in cutting them up, but no water, and season with salt, cay- 
enne, and black pepper to your taste, adding a quarter of 
a pound of good butter for each terrapin and a handful of 
flour for thickening. After stirring a short time, add four 
or five tablespoonfuls of cream, and a half pint of good 
Maderia to every four terrapins, and serve hot in a deep 
dish. A very little rnace may be added and a large table- 
spoonful of mustard; just before serving, add the yelks of 
four hard-boiled eggs. During the stewing, particular 
attention must be paid to stirring the preparation frequently ; 
and terrapins cannot possibly be served too hot. 

Mock Terrapin. — Take half a calf's liver, season and fry it 
brown ; chop it into dice, not too small ; flour it thickly, 
and add a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, a little cayenne 
pepper, two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, a lump of but- 



FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 



59 



ter the size of an egg, and a teacupful of water. Let it boil 
a minute or two. Cold veal will do as well as liver. 

Scalloped Crabs. — Put the crabs into a kettle of boiling 
water, and throw in a handful of salt. Boil from twenty 
minutes to half an hour. Take them from the water when 
done and pick out all the meat ; be careful not to break the 
shell. To a pint of meat put a little salt and pepper ; taste, 
and if not enough add more, a little at a time, till suited. 
Grate in a very little nutmeg, and add one spoonful of 
cracker or bread crumbs, two eggs well beaten, and two 
tablespoonfuls of butter (even full) ; stir all well together ; 
wash the shells clean, and fill each shell full of the mixture; 
sprinkle crumbs over the top and moisten with butter, then 
bake until nicely browned on top. 

Soft-shell Crabs. — Season with pepper and salt; roll in 
flour, then in egg, then in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot 
lard. Serve hot with rich condiments. 

Stewed Clams. — Chop the clams and season with pepper 
and salt; put in a saucepan butter the size of an egg, and 
when melted add a teaspoonful of flour ; add slowly the 
clam liquor and then the clams, and cook three minutes ; 
then add half a pint of cream, and serve. 

Deviled Clams. — Chop fifty clams very fine ; take two 
tomatoes, one onion chopped equally fine, a little parsley, 
thyme, and sweet marjoram, a little salt, pepper, and bread- 
crumbs, adding the juice of the clams until the mixture is 
of the consistency of sausage ; put it in the shells with a 
lump of butter on each ; cover with bread-crumbs, and bake 
one-half hour. 

Clam Chowder. — Forty-five clams chopped, one quart of 
sliced potatoes, one-half pint sliced onions. Cut a few slices 
salt pork, fry to a crisp, chop fine. Put in kettle a little fat 



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from the pork, a layer of potatoes, clams, onions, a little pep 
per and salt ; another layer of chopped pork, potatoes, etc., 
until all are in. Pour over all the juice of the clams. Cook 
three hours, being careful not to burn. Add a teacupful of 
milk just before serving. 

Scallops. — Wipe dry ; dip separately into seasoned egg, 
then into cracker dust, and fry in hot lard. 

RECIPES INCIDENTAL TO FISH. 

Bread Stuffing for Fish. — Take about half a pound of stale 
bread and soak in water, and when soft press out the water; 
add a very little chopped suet, pepper, salt, a large table- 
spoonful of onion minced and fried, and, if preferred, a little 
minced parsley ; cook a trifle, and after removing from the 
fire add a beaten egg. 

Bread Stuffing, No. 2. — Bread-crumbs with a little chopped 
parsley and pork, salt, pepper, and butter. Fill up the fish, 
sew it closely, then bake. 

Cleaning a Shad. — Scale and scrape it carefully; split il 
down the back and remove the contents, reserving the roe 
or melt. Wash well and cook as desired. 

Soaking Salt Fish. — Very salt fish should be soaked several 
hours in three or four changes of warm water. Place the 
skin side up, so that salt crystals may fall away from the 
under or meat side. Wipe carefully and clean, then soak 
for an hour in very cold water. 

Fish in Season. — As a rule, fish are in best condition just 
before they spawn, and many are so while they are full of 
roe, as smelts, mackerel, and shad. As soon as spawning is 
over, they become unfit for food, some of them becoming 
positively unwholesome. In season, the flesh is firm and it 
boils white; when it boils to a bluish hue, the fish are not 
in season, or are stale. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



IV.— POULTRY AND GAME. 

GENERAL REMARKS ON POULTRY AND GAME — HOW TO SELECT, 
PREPARATION FOR BOILING, FOR ROASTING, ETC. THIRTY-ONE 
RECIPES FOR POULTRY AND GAME. 

POULTRY should invariably be selected young, plump, 
and well fed, but not too fat. If old and tough, fowls 
are never as savory when cooked as if they be young 
and tender. This applies especially to ducks and geese. The 
flesh of young fowls will be firm and fleshy to the touch, 
and heavy in proportion to their size ; the skin should be 
clear, white, and finely grained, the toes pliable and easily 
broken when bent back, the end of the breast-bone also 
pliable. All kinds of poultry, turkeys especially, arc im- 
proved by hanging a day or two, unless the weather should 
be exceedingly sultry. Dark-legged fowls are best for 
roasting, while the white-legged ones should be chosen for 
boiling. 

In preparing fowls for boiling, some persons soak fowls 
an hour or two in skimmed-milk and then sew them in a 
floured cloth. This tends to preserve them of a nice color, 
but it may be dispensed with by carefully skimming them 
while over the fire. 

In dressing poultry, care should be taken not to break the 
gall ; a thorough cleansing in every part also is necessary. 
The hairs should be singed off with a well-lighted piece of 
paper, holding the fowl before a hot fire. All the pin- 
feathers should be carefully and entirely removed, as also 
the oil-bag at the end of the back. The legs should be cut 
off at the first joint next to the feet. The inside should be 

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washed and rinsed several times in cold water, after every- 
thing has been removed. Remove extra fat, as it tends to 
make the gravy greasy. The heart should be slit open 
and cleansed, also the gizzard, and both should be put by 
themselves to soak in water. 

Roasted or broiled poultry of all kinds should be thor- 
oughly cooked and handsomely browned. It is not easy to 
state exactly the time required for the different sorts to be 
well done. Experience and practice are the only sure 
gjuides. 

RECIPES. 

Roast Turkey. — A young turkey, weighing not more than 
eight or nine pounds, is the best. Wash and clean thor- 
oughly, wiping dry, as moisture will spoil the stuffing. 
Take one small loaf of bread grated fine, rub into it a piece 
of butter the size of an egg, one small teaspoonful of pep- 
per and one of salt; a sprinkling of sweet marjoram, sum- 
mer savory, or sage, if liked. Rub all together, and fill the 
turkey, sewing up so that the stuffing cannot cook out. 
Always put the giblets under the side of the fowl, so they 
will not dry up. Rub salt, pepper, and butter on the out* 
side ; put into dripping-pan with one teacupful of water, 
basting often, turning the fowl till brown all over; bake 
about two hours ; take out the giblets and chop fine. After 
taking out the turkey, put a large tablespoonful of flour into 
the pan and stir until brown. Put the giblets into a gravy- 
boat, and pour over them the gravy. 

Boiled Turkey. — Stuff the turkey as for roasting. A very 
nice dressing is made by chopping half a pint of oysters 
and mixing them with bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, salt, 
thyme, and wet with milk or water. Baste about the turkey 
a thin cloth, the inside of which has been dredged with 
flour, and put it to boil in cold water with a teaspoonful of salt 



POULTRY AND GAME. 



63 



in it. Let a large turkey simmer for three hours ; skim 
while boiling. Serve with oyster sauce, made by adding tc 
a cupful of the liquor in which the turkey was boiled the 
same quantity of milk and eight oysters chopped fine ; sea- 
son with minced parsley ; stir in a spoonful of rice or wheat 
flour wet with cold milk ; a tablespoonful of butter. Boil 
up once and pour into a tureen. 

Boned Turkey. — Boil a large turkey in as little water as 
possible until the meat falls from the bones ; remove all the 
bones and skin; pick the meat into small pieces, and mix 
dark and light together ; season with pepper and salt ; put 
into a mold and pour over it the liquor, which must be kept 
warm, and press with a heavy weight. 

Roast Chicken. — Having selected your chickens in view of 
the foregoing hints, proceed, in the matters of cleansing, 
filling, and preparing for the oven, precisely as directed in 
the case of roast turkey. As the roasting goes on, baste 
and turn as may be needful to secure a rich brown all over 
the fowls. Prepare the gravy as in the former case. 

Stewed Chicken. — Clean and cut the chicken into joints ; 
put it in a saucepan with the giblets; stew in just enough 
water to cover it until tender ; season with pepper, salt, and 
butter ; thicken with flour ; boil up once and serve with the 
gravy poured over it. 

Broiled Chicken. — Only young, tender chickens are nice 
broiled. After cleaning and washing them, split down the 
back, wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, and lay them 
inside down on a hot gridiron over a bed of bright coals. 
Broil until nicely browned and well cooked through, watch- 
ing and turning to prevent burning. If chickens are large 
steaming them for one-half hour before placing on the grid 
iron will better insure their bein^ cooked through. 



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Fricasseed Chickens. — Cut them in pieces, and put in the 
stewpan with salt and pepper ; add a little water, and let 
them boil half an hour; then thicken the gravy with flour; 
add butter and a little cream, if you have it. Catsup is an 
additional relish to the gravy. 

Smothered Chicken. — Dress your chickens ; wash and let 
them stand in water half an hour to make them white ; cut 
them open at the back ; put into a baking-pan, sprinkle 
salt and pepper over them, putting a lump of butter here 
and there ; cover tightly with another pan the same size, and 
bake one hour ; baste often with butter. 

Fried Chicken. — Prepare the chicken as for stewing ; dry it, 
season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry 
brown in hot butter or lard ; take it out, drain, and serve 
with Challenge Sauce, or some other savory condiment, or 
pour into the gravy left in the frying-pan a cup of milk, 
thicken with flour, add a little butter, and season with Sal- 
picant; boil once and pour over the chicken, or serve sepa- 
rately. 

Chickens Fried with Rice. — Take two or three chickens, 
cut them up, and half fry them ; then boil half a pint of rice 
in a quart of water, leaving the grains distinct, but not too 
dry ; stir one large tablespoonful of butter in the rice while 
hot ; let five eggs be well beaten into the rice, with a little 
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if the last is liked ; put the chick- 
ens into a deep dish, and cover with the rice; brown in an 
oven not too hot. 

Chicken Pie. — Line the sides of a deep pie-dish with a 
good puff paste. Have your chicken cooked, as for a 
fricassee, seasoned with salt and pepper and a little chopped 
parsley. When they are nearly cooked, lay them in a pie- 
dish with half a pound of salt pork cut into small squares, 
and some of the paste also cut into half-inch pieces ; pour 



POULTRY AND GAME. 



65 



in a part of the chicken gravy, thicken with a little flour, 
and cover the dish with the paste cover. Cut a hole the 
size of a dollar in the cover, and cover it with a piece of 
dough. When baking, remove this piece occasionally and 
examine the interior. Brush egg over the top crust of the 
pie, and bake in a quick oven. Should the pie become dry 
pour in more of the gravy. Pigeon pie or any other bird 
pie may be made by the above recipe. 

Chicken Pot-pie. — Cut and joint a large chicken. Cover 
with water, and let it boil gently until tender. Season with 
salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy with two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour mixed smooth in a piece of butter the size of 
an egg. Have ready nice, light bread dough ; cut with a 
biscuit-cutter about an inch thick ; drop this into the boiling 
gravy, having previously removed the chicken to a hot 
platter; cover, and let them boil from one-half to three- 
quarters of an hour. To ascertain whether they are done, 
stick them with a fork ; if it comes out clean, they are done. 
Lay them on the platter with the chicken, pour over the 
gravy, and serve. 

Pressed Chicken. — Boil three chickens until the meat comes 
off the bones ; then, removing all bones, etc., chop, not very 
fine ; add a piece of butter as large as an egg, salt and pepper 
to season well. Have about a pint of the broth, into which 
put one-half box gelatine until dissolved ; then put back the 
chopped chicken and cook until the broth is evenly ab- 
sorbed. Press under a weight in a pan until cold. Veal 
may be treated in a similar manner with very excellent 
results. 

Jellied Chicken. — Boil a chicken in as little watei as pos- 
sible, until the meat falls from the bones ; chop rather fine, 
ind season with pepper and salt ; put in a mold a layer of 
5 



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the chopped meat, and then a layer of hard-boiled eggs cut 
in slices ; then layers of meat and egg alternately until the 
mold is nearly full ; boil down the liquor left in the pot 
one-half; while warm, add one-quarter of an ounce of gela- 
tine, and when dissolved pour into the mold over the meat 
Sit in a cool place over night to jelly. 

Roast Goose and Duck. — A goose should always be par- 
boiled, as it removes the rank taste and makes it more 
palatable. Clean, prepare, and roast the same as turkey, 
only adding to the force-meat a large onion chopped fine. 
Ducks do not require parboiling (unless very old), otherwise 
they are cooked the same as geese. 

Canvas-back Duck. — Having picked, singed, and drawn it 
well, wipe it carefully, so as to have it clean without wash- 
ing. Truss it, leaving the head on, to show its quality. 
Place it in a moderately hot oven for at least three-quarters 
of an hour ; serve it hot, in its own gravy, on a large chafing- 
dish. Currant jelly should be on the table. 

Roast Pigeons. — Clean, wash, and stuff the same as poultry ; 
lay them in rows in a dripping-pan with a little water. 
Unless they are very fat, baste with butter until they are 
half done, afterward with their own gravy. 

Roast Snipe. — Clean and truss, but do not stuff. Lay in 
rows in the dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt, and baste well 
with butter, then with butter and water. When they begin 
to brown, cut as many slices of bread as there are bir.ds. 
Toast quickly, butter, and lay in the dripping-pan, a bird 
upon each. When the birds are done, serve upon the toast, 
with the gravy poured over it. The toast should lie under 
them while cooking at least five minutes, during which time 
the birds should be basted with melted butter seasoned with 
oepper. The largest snipe will not require above twenty 



POULTRY AND GAME. 



67 



minutes to roast. Or, dip an oyster in melted butter, then 
in bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and put in 
each bird before roasting. Small birds are especially de- 
licious cooked in this way. 

Roast Partridges, Pheasants, or Quails. — Pluck, singe, draw, 
and truss them ; season with salt and pepper; roast for about 
half an hour in a brisk oven, basting often with butter. 
When done, place on a dish together with bread-crumbs 
fried brown and arranged in small heaps. Gravy should be 
served separately in a tureen. 

Quail on Toast. — Clean, wash, slit down the back, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper, and lay them on a gridiron, the inside 
down. Broil slowly ; when nicely browned, butter well. 
Serve with cream gravy on toast. Omitting the cream, 
gravy, and toast, you have the ordinary broiled quail. 
Pigeons, woodcock, and small birds may be broiled in the 
same manner, and are delicious and nourishing for invalids. 

Fried Rabbit. — After the rabbit has been thoroughly 
cleaned and washed, put it into boiling water and let it boil 
for ai>out ten minutes ; drain, and when cold, cut it into 
joints; dip into beaten egg, and then into fine bread-crumbs, 
seasoned with salt and pepper. When all are ready, fry 
them in butter over a moderate fire fifteen minutes ; thicken 
the gravy with an ounce of butter and a small teaspoonful 
of flour. Serve hot. 

Roast Rabbit. — Dress nicely and fill with a dressing made 
of bread-crumbs, a little onion, sage, pepper, and salt, and a 
small piece of butter ; tie a piece of salt pork over it ; put 
into a dripping-pan with a little water in a quick oven ; 
baste often ; serve with currant jelly. 

Broiled Steaks of Venison. — Heat the gridiron, grease it 
well, lay on the steaks ; broil quickly, without scorching, 



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D ONE STIC CO OKEK y. 



turning them two or three times ; season with salt and 
pepper. Have butter melted in a well-heated platter, into 
which lay steaks, hot from the gridiron, turning them over 
several times in the butter, and serve hot with currant jelly 
on each steak. It is well to set the platter into another 
containing boiling water. 

Game or Poultry in Jelly. — Take a knuckle of veal weighing 
two pounds ; a slice of lean ham ; one shallot, minced ; a 
sprig of thyme and one of parsley ; six pepper-corns (white) 
and one teaspoonful of salt, with three pints of cold water. 
Boil all these together until the liquor is reduced to a pint ; 
strain without squeezing, and set to cool until next day. It 
should then be a firm jelly. Take off every particle of fat. 
Then take one package gelatine, soaked in one cupful cold 
water for three hours ; one tablespoonful of sugar ; two table- 
spoonfuls strained lemon juice, and two tablespoonfuls of 
currant jelly, dissolved in cold water, and strained through 
a muslin cloth. Pour a quart of boiling water over the gela- 
tine, stir for a moment, add the jellied " stock," and when 
this is dissolved, add sugar, lemon juice, and coloring. Stir 
until all are mixed and melted together, and strain without 
shaking or squeezing through a flannel bag until quite clear. 
Have ready several hard-boiled eggs, and the remains of 
roast game, roast or boiled poultry, cut in neat, thin slices, 
and salted slightly. Wet a mold with cold water, and 
when the jelly begins to harden, pour some in the bottom. 
Cut the whites of the eggs in pretty shapes — stars, flowers, 
rings, leaves — with a keen penknife, and arrange these on 
the lowest stratum of jelly, which should be thin, that the 
forms may be visible. Add more jelly, and on this lay 
slices of meat, close together. More jelly, and proceed in 
this order until the mold is full. Set in a cool place to 
harden, and then turn out upon a flat dish. A mold with 
smooth, upright sides, is best for this purpose. 



POULTRY AND GAME. 



RECIPES INCIDENTAL TO POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 



69 



Gravy for Poultry. — Boil the giblets very tender; chop fine ; 
then take the liquor in which they are boiled, thicken with 
flour ; season with salt, pepper, and a little butter ; add the 
giblets and dripping in which the turkey was roasted. 

Plain Stuffing. — Take stale bread, cut off all the crust, rub 
very fine, and pour over it as much melted butter as will 
make it crumble in your hands ; salt and pepper to taste. 
See also under " Roast Turkey." 

Potato Stuffing. — Take two-thirds bread and one-third 
boiled potatoes grated, butter size of an egg, pepper, salt, 
one egg ; mix thoroughly. 

Oyster Stuffing. — By substituting oysters for potatoes in 
the above, you have oyster filling. See also under " Boiled 
Turkey." 

Stuffing for Boiled Chicken. — One cupful of bread-crumbs, 
one tablespoonful of butter, one egg, half a teaspoonful ol 
salt, and one tablespoonful of sweet marjoram. Mix well ; 
stuff and sew in. 

Capons. — Young male fowls, prepared by early gelding, 
and then nicely fattened, are the finest delicacies in the 
poultry line. They may be known by a small head, pale 
comb, which is short and withered, the neck feathers longer 
than usual, smooth legs, and soft, short spurs. They are 
cooked as ordinary chickens. 

Keeping Game. — Game is rendered more tender, and its 
flavor is improved by keeping. If wrapped in a cloth satu- 
rated with equal parts of pyroligneous acid and water, it 
will keep many days. If in danger of tainting, clean, rub 
well with salt, and plunge into boiling water, letting it run 
through them for five minutes ; then hang in a cold place. 
If tainted, put them in new milk over night. Always hang 
them up by the neck. 



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ON 

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$S& 



V.— MEATS. 

I.— BEEF. 

HOW TO SELECT BEEF; CHOICE ROASTING PIECES, STEAKS, BOIL- 
ING PIECES, SOUP PIECES, El C. HOW TO ROAST, BROIL, AND 
BOIL BEEF. NINETEEN RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF. 

GOOD beef may be known by its color. That of a 
deep, healthy red, fine, smooth, open grain, veined 
with white, being the best. The fat should be oily, 
smooth, and inclined to white, rather than yellow, as yellow 
fat is a sure sign of inferior quality. 

The sixth, seventh, and eighth ribs and the sirloin are 
considered the choicest cuts for roasting. The inside of the 
sirloin and the rump are the most tender for steaks, though 
here is a point where individual taste may be exercised. 
By some epicures what is known as the pin-bone steak is 
regarded as superior to any other. The round, buttock, 
shin, or brisket may be boiled or stewed. The neck or 
shoulder is generally used for soups, gravy, etc. 

In roasting beef it is necessary to have a brisk fire. The 
roast must be well seasoned with salt and pepper and 
dredged with flour. Baste it frequently. About fifteen 
minutes is required for roasting every pound of beef. 

To broil meats well, have the gridiron hot and the bars 
well greased before putting on the meat. 

In boiling beef, or indeed any fresh meat, plunge it into 
boiling water, that the outer parts may contract, and so 
retain the internal juices. Salt meats should be put on in 
cold water, that the salt may be extracted in the cooking. 
In boiling meats, it is important to keep the water constantly 

70 



MEATS. \ 

boiling, otherwise the meat will absorb the water. Le 
careful to add boiling water only, if more is needed. Cold 
water will check the process of cooking and spoil the flavor. 
Remove the scum as soon as the boiling commences. Allow 
about twenty minutes boiling for each pound of fresh meat, 
and from one-half to three-quarters of an hour for all salt 
meats, except ham, which requires but fifteen minutes to the 
pound. The more gently all meats boil the more tender 
they will be. Slow boiling makes meat far better. 



MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 




RECIPES. 

Roast Beef. — The best roasting-pieces are the middle ribs 
iuid the sirloin. The ends of the ribs should be removed 
from the flank, and the latter folded under the beef and 
securely fastened with skewers. Rub a little salt into the 
fat part ; place the meat in the dripping-pan with a pint of 
stock or water ; baste freely, and dredge with flour half an 
hour before taking the joint from the oven. Should the 
•oven be very hot, place a buttered paper over the meat to 
prevent it scorching while yet raw. When the paper is 
used it will need very little basting. Or, turn the rib side 
up toward the fire for the first twenty minutes. The time it 
will take in cooking depends upon the thickness of the joint 
and the length of time the animal has been killed. Skim the 
fat from the gravy and add a tablespoonful of prepared 
brown flour to the remainder. 

Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding. — Take a large rib 
roast ; rub salt and pepper over it, and dredge with flour. 
Place on a rack in a dripping-pan, with very little water, 
until it is heated thoroughly ; baste frequently. When 
nicely browned on the upper side, turn and baste. About 
three-quarters of an hour before it is done, take out the 
aneat, pour off most of the dripping, put the batter for the 





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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



pudding in the bottom of the pan, allowing the drippings 
from the beef to drop into it. When the pudding is done, 
return the meat and finish roasting. Add some hot water 
to the dripping and thicken with flour for the gravy. 

For the batter of this pudding, take half a cup of butter, 
three cups of flour, three eggs, one cup of milk, and two 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

Beef a la Mode. — Take a round of fresh beef, extract the 
bone, and tdke away the fat. For a round weighing ten 
pounds, make a seasoning or stuffing as follows : Half a 
pound of beef suet; half a pound of grated bread-crumbs; 
the crumbled yelks of three hard-boiled eggs ; a little 
bundle of sweet marjoram, the leaves chopped; another of 
sweet basil ; four onions minced small; a large tablespoonful 
of mixed mace and nutmeg powdered. Season lightly with 
salt and cayenne. Stuff this mixture into the place from 
whence you took out the bone. Make a number of deep 
cuts about the meat, and stuff them also. Skewer the meat' 
into a favorable shape, and secure its form by tying it round 
with tape. Put it into a tin bakepan, and pour over it a 
pint of port wine. Put on the lid, and bake the beef slowly for 
five or six hours, or till it is thoroughly done. If the meat 
is to be eaten hot, skim all the fat from the gravy, into 
which, after it is taken off the fire, stir in the beaten yelks 
of two eggs. Minced oysters may be substituted for onions. 

Spiced Beef. — Boil a shin of beef weighing ten or twelve 
pounds, until the meat falls readily from the bones. Pick 
the meat to pieces, and mash the gristle very fine, rejecting 
all parts that are too hard to mash. Set away the liquor in 
which the beef has boiled till it is cold ; then takeoff all the 
fat. Boil the liquor down to a pint and a half. Roll a 
dozen crackers very fine, and add them to the meat. Then 
return the meat to the liquor, and heat it all. Add salt and 
pepper to taste, half a teaspoonful of cloves, half a teaspoon- 



ME A TS. 



73 



ful of cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, 
and a little powdered nutmeg. Let it boil up once, and put 
into a mold or deep dish, with a weight adjusted to press 
it down. When it is entirely cold, cut into thin slices. 

Savory Beef.— Take a shin of beef from the hind-quarter, 
saw it into four pieces, put it into a pot, and boil it until the 
meat and gristle drop from the bones ; chop the meat very 
fine put it in a dish, and season it with a little salt, pepper, 
clove, and sage, to your taste ; pour in the liquor in which 
the meat was boiled, and place it away to harden. Cut in 
slices and eat cold. 

Minced Beef.— Cut cold roast beef into thin slices ; put 
some of the gravy into a stewpan, a bit of butter rolled in 
flour pepper and salt, and boil it up. Add a little catsup, 
and put in the minced slices, and heat them through, but do 
not let it boil. Put small slices of toast in the dish, and 
cover with the meat. 

Deviled Beef.— Take slices of cold roast beef, lay them on 
hot coals, and broil ; season with pepper and salt, and serve 
while hot, with a small lump of butter on each piece. 

Curried Beef.— Take about two ounces of butter and place 
them in a saucepan with two small onions cut up into slices 
and let them fry till they are of a light brown ; then add a 
tablespoonful and a half of curry powder, and mix it up 
well. Now cut up the beef into pieces about an inch 
square ; pour in from a quarter to a third of a pint of milk,, 
and let it simmer for thirty minutes ; then take it off and 
place it in a dish with a little lemon juice. While cooking 
stir constantly, to prevent burning. Send it to table with a 
wall of mashed potatoes or rice around it. 

Beef Hash.— Chop fine cold steak or roast beef, and cook 
in a little water; add cream or milk, and thicken with flour; 
season to taste, and pour over thin slices of toast. 



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Beef Stew. — Cut cold beef into small pieces, and put into 
cold water ; add one tomato, a little onion, chopped fine ; 
pepper and salt, and cook slowly ; thicken with butter and 
flour, and pour over toast. 

Boiled Corned Beef. — Put four or five pounds of lean corned 
meat into a pot with plenty of water. The water should be 
hot. The same care should be taken in skimming as for 
fresh meat. Allow half an hour for every pound of meat 
after it has begun to boil. The excellence of corned beef 
depends very much upon its being boiled gently and long. 
If it is to be eaten cold, lay it, when boiled, into a coarse 
earthen dish or pan, and over it a clean board about the 
size of the meat ; upon this put a heavy weight. Salt meat 
is much improved by pressing. 

Stewed Shin of Beef. — Wash, and set it on to stew in suffi- 
cient cold water to keep it just covered until done. When 
it boils, take off the scum, and put an ounce and a quarter 
of salt to the gallon of water. It is usual to add a few cloves 
and some black pepper, slightly bruised and tied up loosely 
in a fold of muslin, two or more onions, a root of celery, a 
bunch of savory herbs, four or five carrots, and as many 
turnips, either whole or sliced ; if to be served with the 
meat, the last two will require a little more than the ordinary 
time of boiling, but otherwise they may be simmered with 
the meat from the beginning. Give the beef from four to 
five hours' gentle stewing, and serve it with part of its own 
liquor thickened and flavored, or quite plain. 

Boiled Tongue. — Soak the tongue over night, then boil four 
or five hours. Peel off the outer skin and return it to the 
water in which it was boiled to cool. This will render it 
juicy and tender. 

Baked Heart. — Wash carefully and stuff nicely ; roast or 
bake and serve with gravy, which should be thickened with 



ME A rs. 



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some of the stuffing. It is very nice hashed, with a little 
port wine added. 

Broiled Beefsteak. — Have the choice steaks cut three- 
quarters of an inch thick ; grease the gridiron and have it 
well heated. Put the steak over a hot, clear fire. When the 
steak is colored, turn it over, which must be done without 
.sticking a fork into it and thus letting out the juice. It 
should be quite rare or pink in the centre, but not raw. 
When cooked sufficiently, lay on a hot platter and season 
widi pepper and salt ; spread over the top some small bits of 
butter, and serve immediately. Salt extracts the juices of 
meats in cooking. Steaks ought not to be salted until they 
have been broiled. 

Beefsteak with Onions. — Take a nice rumpsteak, and pound 
it with a rolling-pin until it is quite tender; flour and season; 
put it into a frying-pan with hot lard and fry it. When 
well browned on both sides, take it up and dredge with flour. 
Have about two dozen onions ready boiled ; strain them in 
a colander and put them in a frying-pan, seasoning with 
pepper and salt ; dredge in a little flour, and add a small 
lump of butter ; place the pan over the fire and stir the 
•onions frequently, to prevent their scorching. When they 
are soft and a little brown, return the steak to the pan, and 
heat all together. Place the steak on a large dish, pour the 
onions and gravy over it, and send to the table hot. 

Beefsteak and Tomatoes. — Stew a dozen good-sized tomatoes 
one hour, with salt and pepper. Then put in a pound of 
tender beefsteak, cut in small pieces, and boil fifteen min- 
utes longer. Lay buttered toast in a deep dish, pour on the 
steak and tomato, and you have a most relishing and 
healthful dish. 

Stuffed Beefsteak. — Take a rump steak about an inch thick. 
Make a stuffing of bread and herbs, and spread it over the 
-steak. Roll it up, and with a needle and coarse thread sew 



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it together. Lay it in an iron pot on one or two wooden 
skewers, and put in water just sufficient to cover it. Let it 
stew slowly for two hours — longer if the beef is tough ; 
serve it in a dish with the gravy turned over it. To be 
carved crosswise, in slices, through beef and stuffing. 

Beefsteak Pudding. — Prepare a good suet crust, and line a 
cake tin with it; put in layers of steak, with onions, toma- 
toes and mushrooms chopped, a seasoning of pepper, salt, 
and cayenne, and half a teacupful of water before closing it. 
Bake from an hour and a half to two hours, and serve hot. 





II.— VEAL. 

CHOOSING VEAL, FOR ROASTING, FOR STEWING \ THE HEAD,. 
FEET, KIDNEYS, SWEET-BREADS, E1C. ) GENERAL USEFULNESS. 
TWENTY-ONE RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL. 

VEAL should be fat, finely grained, white, firm, and not 
overgrown. When large, it is apt to be coarse and tough, 
and if too young, it lacks flavor and is less wholesome. 
It is more difficult to keep than any meat except pork, and 
should never be allowed to acquire the slightest taint before 
it is dressed. 

The fillet, the loin, the shoulder, and the best end of the 
neck, are the parts preferred for roasting ; the breast and 
knuckle are more usually stewed or boiled. The head and 
feet of the calf are valuable articles of food, both for the 
nutriment which the gelatinous parts of them afford, and for 
the greater variety of modes in which they may be dressed. 
The kidneys, with the rich fat that surrounds them, and the 
sweet-breads especially, are well-known delicacies ; the 
liver and the heart also are very good eating ; and no meat 
is so generally useful for rich soups and gravies as veal. 



MEATS. 



77 



The best veal is from calves not less than four, or more 
than six weeks old. If younger it is not wholesome. If 
older its character begins to change materially from the 
calf's use of grasses and other food. 

RECIPES. 

Roast Veal. — Take a loin or fillet of veal ; make a stuffing 
as for roast turkey ; fill the flat with the stuffing, and sew it 
firmly to the loin ; rub the veal with salt, pepper, and flour, 
and put it into a pan with a little water. While roasting, 
baste frequently, letting it cook until thoroughly done. 
Allow two hours for a roast weighing from six to eight 
pounds. When done, remove the threads before sending 
to the table ; thicken the gravy with a little flour. Veal 
should be rather overdone. 

Pot-roasted Fillet. — Remove the bone and fill the cavity 
with a force-meat made of bread-crumbs, a very little salt, 
pork chopped fine, sage, pepper, salt, and ground cloves. 
Lay in the pot a layer of slices of salt pork ; put in the fil 
let, fastened with skewers, cover with additional pork, pour 
over it a pint of good stock, cover down close, and let it 
cook slowly two or three hours ; then take off the cover 
and let it brown. Serve hot. 

Boiled Fillet. — A small and delicately white fillet should 
be selected for this purpose. Bind it round with tape, after 
having washed it thoroughly ; cover it well with cold water, 
and bring it gently to a boil ; clear off carefully the scum 
as it rises, and be veiy cautious not to allow the water to 
become smoked. Let the meat be gently simmered for tnree 
hours and a half to four and a half, according- to its weight. 
Send it to table with rich white sauce. 

Veal Stew. — Cut four or five pounds of veal into strips ; 
peel a dozen large potatoes, and cut them into slices ; place 
a layer of sliced salt pork with salt, pepper, sage, and onion 



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on the bottom of the pot, then a layer of potatoes, then a 
layer of the veal nicely seasoned. Use up the veal thus. 
Over the last layer of veal put a layer of the pork, and 
over the whole a layer of potatoes. Pour in water till it 
covers the whole ; cover the pot closely ; heat it rapidly for 
a few minutes, and then let it simmer two hours. 

Veal Hash. — Take a teacupful of boiling water in a sauce- 
pan, stir into it an even teaspoonful of flour wet in a table- 
spoonful of cold water, and let it boil five minutes ; add 
one-half teaspoonful of black pepper, as much salt, and two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, and let it keep hot, but not boil. 
Chop the veal fine and mix with half as much stale bread- 
crumbs. Put into a pan and pour the gravy over it, then 
let it simmer ten minutes. Serve this on buttered toast. 

Veal Pie. — Line a pudding-dish with good pie crust ; into 
this put a layer of veal cut into small slices from the neck, 
or other less valuable part ; make a second layer of hard- 
boiled eggs sliced thin ; butter and pepper this layer. Add 
a layer of sliced ham, or salt pork, squeezing a few drops 
of lemon juice on the ham. Add more veal, as before, with 
eggs, ham, etc., till the dish is nearly full. Pour over a 
cupful of stock and cover with a stout crust. Bake in a 
moderate oven for two hours. 

Veal Pot Pie. — Make a crust of a dozen mashed potatoes, 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a teacup of milk or cream, 
a little salt, and flour enough to stiffen it nicely. Fry half 
a dozen slices of salt pork, then cut up the veal and boil 
these together, in but little water, till the veal is almost 
done. Peel and slice a dozen potatoes quite thin, and roll 
the dough about half an inch thick and cut it into strips. 
Now build in your pot a layer of crust, meat, potatoes ; then 
sprinkle with salt and pepper. Then another set of layers, 
and top off with crust. Pour on the liquor in which the 
meat was cooked, and let all simmer for half an hour, or until 



Jl/EA TS. 



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the top crust is cooked. Brown the crust by holding over 
it a red-hot shovel. 

Veal Loaf. — Take a piece of butter the size of an egg, three 
pounds of raw veal, one heaping teaspoonful of salt, one of 
pepper, and two raw eggs. Chop the veal fine and mix all 
together, and put in about two tablespoonfuls of water. 
Mold this into a loaf, then roll it in eight tablespoonfuls of 
rolled crackers, and pour over it three tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter ; place in a pan and bake two hours. To be 
sliced off when cold, and served at luncheon or tea. 

Veal with Oysters. — Cut the veal in small, thin slices, place 
it in layers in a jar with salt, pepper, and oysters. Pour in 
the liquor of the oysters, set the jar in a kettle of boiling 
water, and let it stew till the meat becomes very tender. 

Veal with Rice. — Pour over a small knuckle of veal rather 
more than sufficient water to cover it ; bring it slowly to a 
boil ; take off all the scum with great care; throw in a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and when the joint has simmered for about 
half an hour, throw in from eight to twelve ounces of well- 
washed rice, and stew the veal gently for an hour and a half 
longer, or until both the meat and rice are perfectly tender. 
A seasoning of cayenne and mace in fine powder, with more 
salt, should it be required, must be added twenty or thirty 
minutes before they are served. For a superior stew, good 
veal broth may be substituted for the water. 

Veal with Peas. — A quart or more of full-grown green 
peas, instead of rice, added to the veal, prepared as above, 
as soon as the scum has been cleared off, will make a most 
excellent stew. It should be well seasoned with white 
pepper, and the mace should be omitted. 

Cutlets in Cracker.— Pound the cutlet and season, cut the 
edges into good shape ; take one egg, beat it a little, roll 
the cutlet in it, then cover thoroughly with rolled crackers. 



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Have a lump of butter and lard mixed hot in your skillet ; 
put in the meat and cook slowly. When nicely browned 
stir in one spoonful of flour for the gravy ; add half a pint 
of sweet milk, and let it come to a boil. Salt and pepper. 

Cutlets, Broiled; — Trim evenly ; sprinkle salt and pepper on 
both sides ; dip in melted butter, and place upon the grid- 
iron over a clear fire ; baste while broiling with melted 
butter, turn over three or four times ; serve with melted 
butter, or tomato sauce. 

Pressed Veal. — Put four pounds of veal in a pot ; cover 
with water ; stew slowly until the meat drops from the bone, 
then take out and chop fine ; let the liquor boil down until 
there is a cupful ; put in a small cupful of butter, a table- 
spoonful of pepper, a little allspice, and a" beaten egg ; stir 
this through the meat ; slice a hard-boiled egg ; lay in a 
mold, and press in the meat ; when put upon the table gar- 
nish with celery tops or parsley. 

Minced Veal. — Heat a cupful of well-thickened gravy to a 
boil ; add two tablespoonfuls of cream or rich milk, one 
tablespoonful of butter, pepper and salt, parsley to taste, a 
small onion, and three eggs well beaten. When these are 
stirred in, add the cold minced meat, salted and peppered. 
Let it heat thoroughly, but not boil. 

Veal Scallops. — Mince the meat very small, and set it over 
the fire ; season with grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a 
little cream. Then put it into scallop-shells, and cover with 
crumbs of bread, over which put bits of butter, and brown 
at a quick fire. Serve hot, with catsup or mushroom sauce. 

Calf's Liver or Heart. — Cut the liver in slices, plunge into 
boiling water for an instant, wipe dry, season with pepper and 
salt, dredge with flour, and fry brown in lard. Have it per 
fectly done. Serve in gravy, made with either milk or water. 
Calf's heart dressed in this way is also very palatable. 



MEATS. 



81 



Broiled Sweet-breads. — Parboil and blanch the sweet- 
breads by putting them first into hot water and keeping it 
at a hard boil for five minutes, then plunging it into ice- 
cold water somewhat salted. Allow them to lie in this ten 
minutes, wipe them very dry, and with a sharp knife split in 
half, lengthwise. Broil over a clear, hot fire, turning when- 
ever they begin to drip. Have ready upon a deep plate 
melted butter, well salted and peppered, mixed with catsup 
or Challenge sauce. When the sweet-breads are done to a 
fine brown lay them in this preparation, turning them over 
several times ; cover and set them in a warm oven. Serve 
on fried bread or toast in a chafing-dish, a piece of sweet- 
bread on each. Pour on the hot butter and send to table. 

Stewed Sweet-breads. — Parboil, blanch, and cut into small 
pieces ; boil fifteen minutes in milk ; stir into this chopped 
parsley, a little butter, and cornstarch to thicken. Serve hot. 

Broiled Kidneys. — Skin the kidneys carefully, but do not 
slice or split them. Lay for ten minutes in warm (not hot) 
melted butter, rolling them over and over, that every part may 
be well basted. Broil on a gridiron over a clear fire, turn- 
ing them every minute. Unless very large, they should be 
done in about twelve minutes. Sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, and lay on a hot dish, with butter upon each. 

Calf's Tongue. — Of all the tongue preparations, calf's 
tongue is regarded as best. To pickle them, use for each 
a quarter pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre, and a quar- 
ter pound of sugar. Rub the tongues daily with this, allow- 
ing them to lie in pickle for two weeks, after which they 
will be ready for smoking or boiling. If used without 
smoking, they require no soaking, but should simmer sev- 
eral hours till perfectly done, when the skin will peel ofif 
readily. If soaking is "needed, lay them first in cold water 
and then in tepid water for two hours each; then boil till 
done. 



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III.— MUTTON AND LAMB. 

CHOOSING MUTTON AND LAMB, FOR ROASTING, FOR BOILING; 
CUTLETS, SUITABLE VEGETABLES, ETC. THIRTEEN RECIPES FOR 
MUTTON AND LAMB. 

THE best mutton is small-boned, plump, finely grained, 
and short legged ; the lean of a dark, rather than of a 
bright hue, and the fat white and clear ; when this is 
yellow, the meat is rank, and of bad quality. The leg and 
the loin are the desirable joints ; and the preference would 
probably be given to the latter, but for the superabundance 
of its fat, which renders it a somewhat wasteful part. 

The parts for roasting are the shoulder, saddle, or chine, 
the loin, and haunch. The leg is best boiled, unless the 
mutton is young and very tender. The neck is sometimes 
roasted, but it is more generally boiled ; the scrag, or that 
part of it which joins the head, is seldom used for any other 
purpose than making broth, and should be taken off before 
the joint is dressed. Cutlets from the thick end of the loin 
are commonly preferred, but they are frequently taken from 
the best end of the neck and from the middle of the leg. 

Lamb should be eaten very fresh. In the fore-quarter, the 
vein in the neck should be blue, otherwise it is stale. In the 
hind-quarter the fat of the kidney will have a slight odor if 
not quite fresh. Lamb soon loses its firmness if stale. 

New potatoes, asparagus, green peas, and spinach, are the 
vegetables to be eaten with roast lamb. 

RECIPES. 

Roast Mutton. — Wash the meat well, sprinkle with peppef 
and salt, dredge with flour, and put in the dripping-pan, 
with a little water in the bottom. Baste often with the drip- 
pings, skim the gravy well, and thicken with flour. 



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Boiled Leg of Mutton.- — Cut off the shank-bone, trim the 
knuckle, and wash the mutton ; put it into a pot with salt, 
and cover with boiling water. Allow it to boil a few min- 
utes ; skim the surface clean, draw your pot to the side of the 
fire, and simmer until done. Time, from two to two hours 
and a half. Do not try the leg with a fork to determine 
whether it is done. You lose the juices of the meat by so 
doing. Serve with caper sauce, or drawn butter, well sea- 
soned. The liquor from this boiling may be converted into 
soup with the addition of a ham-bone and a few vegetables 
boiled together. 

Mutton Dressed like Venison. — Skin and bone a loin of 
mutton, and lay it into a stewpan with a pint of water, a 
large onion stuck with a dozen cloves, half a pint of port 
wine, and a spoonful of vinegar ; add, when it boils, a little 
thyme and parsley, and some pepper and salt ; let it stew 
three hours, and turn it often. Make some gravy of the 
bones, and add it at intervals to the mutton. 

Broiled Mutton Chops. — Trim off a portion of the fat, or the 
whole of it, unless it be liked ; heat the gridiron, rub it with 
a bit of the mutton suet, broil over a brisk fire, and turn 
often until they are done, which, for the generality of eaters, 
will be in about eight minutes, if the chops are not more 
than half an inch thick, which they should not be. Add 
salt and pepper with melted butter, and serve on a hot 
plate. 

Mutton and Green Peas. — Select a breast of mutton not too 
fat, cut it into small, square pieces, dredge it with flour, and fry 
to a fine brown in butter ; add pepper and salt, cover it with 
water, and set it over a slow fire to stew, until the meat is 
perfectly tender. Take out the meat, skim off all the fat from 
the gravy, and just before serving add a quart of young 
peas, previously boiled with the strained gravy, and let the 
whole boil gently until the peas are entirely done. 



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Irish Stew. — Blanch three pounds of mutton chops by dip- 
ping them first in boiling water, for two or three minutes,, 
and then into ice-cold water. Place them on the bottom of 
a clean stewpan, barely covering them with cold water, 
Bring them slowly to a boil ; add one teaspoonful of salt ; 
skim clean ; add a little parsley, mace, and a few pepper- 
corns. Simmer twenty minutes ; add a dozen small onions 
whole, and two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed well with cold 
water. Let it simmer for an hour ; add a dozen potatoes 
pared and cut to about the size of the onions. Boil til! 
these are done ; then dish, placing the chops around the 
edge of the plate, and pouring the onions and potatoes into 
the centre. Strain the gravy, add three tablespoonfuls of 
chopped parsley, and pour over the stew. 

Boiled Leg of Lamb. — Choose a ewe leg, as there is more 
fat on it ; saw off the knuckle, trim off the flap, and the thick 
skin on the back of it ; soak in warm water for three hours, 
then boil gently (time according to size). Serve with oyster 
sauce. (See Sauces.) 

Roast Lamb. — Wash well, season with pepper ana salt, put 
in the dripping-pan with a little water. Baste often with 
the dripping; skim the gravy well and thicken with flour. 

Lamb Stewed in Butter. — Select a nice loin, wash well, and 
wipe very dry ; skewer down the flap, and lay it in a close-shut- 
ting and thick stewpan, or saucepan, in which three ounces 
of good butter have been just dissolved, but not allowed to 
boil ; let it simmer slowly over a very gentle fire for two 
hours and a quarter, and turn it when it is rather more than 
half done. Lift it out, skim, and pour the gravy over it; 
send to table with brown gravy, mint sauce, and a salad. 

Saddle of Lamb. — This is a dainty joint for a small party. 
Sprinkle a little salt over it, and set it in the dripping-pan, 
■vith a few small pieces of butter on the meat ; baste it 



ME A TS. 



85 



.occasionally with tried-out lamb-fat ; dredge a little flour 
over it a few minutes before taking from the oven. Serve 
with currant-jelly and a few choice early vegetables. Mint- 
sauce may be served with the joint, but in a very mild form. 
(See Sauces.) 

Broiled Lamb Chops. — Trim off most of the fat ; broil over 
a brisk fire, turning frequently until the chops are nicely 
browned. Season with pepper and salt, and baste with hot 
butter. Serve on a buttered dish. 

Breaded Lamb Chops. — Grate plenty of stale bread, season 
with ^alt and pepper, have ready some well-beaten egg, have 
a spider with hot lard ready, take the chops one by one, dip 
into the egg, then into the bread-crumbs ; repeat it, as this 
will be found an improvement ; then lay the chops sep- 
arately into the boiling lard, fry brown, and then turn. To 
be eaten with currant jelly. 

Lamb Steaks, Fried. — Dip each steak into well-beaten egg, 
cover with bread-crumbs or corn-meal, and fry in butter or 
new lard. Mashed potatoes and boiled rice are a necessary 
accompaniment. The gravy may be thickened with fiour- 
and butter, adding a little lemon juice ; pour this hot upon 
the steaks, and place the rice in spoonfuls around the dish 
to garnish it. 



IV.— PORK. 



PORK REQUIRES CAREFUL CHOOSING; NEEDS THOROUGH COOK 
ING. NINETEEN RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK. 

PORK, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen 
with the greatest care. The pig, from its gluttonous 
habits, is particularly liable to disease, and if killed 
and eaten when in an unhealthy condition, those who par- 
take of it will probably pay dearly for their indulgence. 
Dairy-fed pork is the best. 



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If this meat be not thoroughly well-done, it is disgusting 
to the sight and poisonous to the stomach. " In the gravy 
of pork, if there is the least tint of redness," says an emi- 
nent medical authority, " it is enough to appall the sharpest 
appetite. Other meats under-done may be unpleasant, but 
pork is absolutely uneatable." 

RECIPES. 

Roast Pig. — A fat pig about three weeks old is best for a 
roast. Wash it thoroughly inside and out ; chop the liver 
fine with bread-crumbs, onions, parsley, pepper, salt, and 
potatoes boiled and mashed ; make it into a paste with but- 
ter and egg. Put this stuffing into the pig and sew it up \ 
put in a baking-pan with a little water and roast over a 
bright fire, basting well with butter ; rub frequently also 
with a piece of lard tied in a clean rag. When thoroughly 
done, lay the pig, back up, in a dish, and put a red apple or 
pickled-mango in its mouth. Make a dressing with some 
of the stuffing, with a glass of wine and some of the drip^ 
ping. Serve with the roast pig, and also in a gravy-boat. 

Roast Pork. — Choose for roasting, the loin, the leg, the 
saddle, the fillet, the shoulder, or the spare-rib. The loin 
of young pork is roasted with the skin on, and this should 
be scored in regular strips of about a quarter inch wide 
before the joints are laid to the fire. The skin of the leg 
also should be cut through in the same manner. This will 
prevent blistering, and render it more easy to carve. In 
beginning the roasting the meat should be placed at some 
distance from the fire, in order that it may be heated through 
before the skin hardens. The basting should be constant. 
The cooking must be thorough and the meat well-browned 
before removed from the fire. 

Roast Spare-rib. — Spare-rib should be well rubbed with 
salt and pepper before it is roasted. If large and thick, it 



ME A TS. 



87 



will require two or three hours to roast ; a very thin piece 
may be roasted in an hour. Lay the thick end to the fire. 
When you put it down to roast, dust on some flour, and 
baste with a little butter. The shoulder, loin, and chine are 
roasted in the same manner. 

Leg of Pork Roasted. — Parboil a leg of pork, take off the 
skin, and then roast ; baste with butter, and make a savory 
powder of finely minced or dried or powdered sage, ground 
black pepper, salt, and some bread-crumbs rubbed together 
through a colander ; add to this a little very finely minced 
onion ; sprinkle the meat with this when it is almost done ; 
put a half pint of gravy into the dish. 

Baked Pork Tenderloins. — Split the tenderloin lengthwise 
nearly through ; stuff with a filling of bread-crumbs, pep- 
per, salt, and sweet marjoram. Tie a string around it, to 
keep the filling in, and bake in a hot oven for half an hour, 
basting well as the cooking proceeds. 

Pork Cutlets. — Cut them about half an inch thick from a 
•delicate loin of pork, trim into neat form, and take off part 
of the fat, or the whole of it when it is not liked ; dredge a 
little pepper or cayenne upon them, and broil (or fry) over 
a clear and moderate fire from fifteen to eighteen minutes, 
sprinkle a little fine salt upon them just before they are 
dished. They may be dipped into egg and then into bread- 
crumbs mixed with minced sage, then finished in the usual 
way. When fried, flour them well, and season with salt and 
pepper. Serve with gravy made in the pan. 

Boiled Ham. — The soaking which must be given to a ham 
before it is boiled depends both on the manner in which it 
has been cured and on its age. If highly salted, hard, and 
old, a day and night, or even longer, may be requisite to 
open the pores sufficiently and to extract a portion of the 
salt. The water must be several times changed during the 
steeping. After the ham has been scraped or brushed as 



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88 D OMES TIC CO OKER J '. 

clean as possible, pare away lightly any part which may b& 
blackened or rusty. Lay it into a suitable kettle and cover 
it plentifully with cold water ; bring it very slowly to boil, 
and clear off the scum, which will be thrown up in great 
abundance So soon as the water has been cleared from 
this, draw the pot to the edge of the stove, that the ham 
may be simmered slowly but steadily, until it is tender. On 
no account allow it to boil fast. When it can be probed 
very easily with a sharp skewer, lift it out, strip off the skin, 
and return the ham to the water to cool. 

Baked Ham. — A ham of sixteen pounds must be boiled 
three hours, then skin and rub in half a pound of brown 
sugar, cover with bread-crumbs, and bake well for two 
hours. 

Glazed Ham. — Take a cold-boiled ham from which the skin 
has been removed, and brush it well all over with beaten 
egg. To a cup of powdered cracker allow enough rich 
milk or cream to make into a thick paste, salt it, and work 
in a teaspoonful of melted butter. Spread this evenly, a 
quarter of an inch thick, over the ham, and set to brown in 
a moderate oven. 

Ham and Eggs. — Cut the ham in very thin slices, and fry 
long enough to cook the fat, but not long enough to crisp 
the lean. A veiy little boiling water may be put into the 
frying-pan to secure the ham moist and tender. Remove 
the ham when it is done, break eggs gently into the pan, 
without breaking the yelks, and fry till done, about three 
minutes. The eggs will not require to be turned. Cut oflf. 
the uneaven edges, place the eggs around the ham, and pour 
in the gravy. 

Ham or Tongue Toast. — Toast a thick slice of bread and 
butter it on both sides. Take a small quantity of remains 
of ham or tongue, grate it, and put it in a stewpan with two 



ME A 73. 



89 



hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and mixed with a little but- 
ter, salt, and cayenne ; heat it quite hot, then spread thickly 
upon the buttered toast. Serve while hot. 

Broiled Salt Pork. — Cut the pork in thin slices. Put a lit- 
tle water in the pan, and when it has boiled three minutes 
pour it off; dredge the pork with flour and brown it. 

Bacon Broiled or Fried. — Cut evenly into thin slices, or rash- 
ers ; pare from them all rind and rust; curl them round; 
fasten them with small, slight skewers, then gently fry, broil y 
or toast them ; draw out the skewers before they are sent to 
table. A few minutes will dress them either way. They 
may be cooked without being curled. The slow cooking is 
necessary that the meat may be well done without being 
dried or hardened. 

Fried Sausage. — Sausages should be used while quite fresh. 
Melt a piece of butter or dripping in a clean frying-pan ; 
when just melted, put in the sausages, shake the pan for a 
minute, and keep turning them ; do not break or prick 
them ; fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely 
browned ; when done, lay them on a hair-sieve before the 
fire to drain the fat from them. The secret of cooking sau- 
sages well is to let them heat very gradually. If so done 
the skins will not burst if they are fresh. The common 
practice of pricking them lets the gravy out, which is un- 
desirable. 

Baked Sausages. — The most wholesome way to cook sau 
sages is to bake them. Place them in a baking-pan in a 
single layer, and bake in a moderate oven ; turn them over 
when half done, that they may be equally browned. Serve 
with pieces of toast between them, having cut the toast 
about the same size as the sausage, and moistened it with a 
little of the sausage fat. 

Sausage Meat. — Many prefer to use sausage meat in bulk. 



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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



Small portions of the meat should be packed lightly to 
gether and fried slowly until nicely browned. When done, 
drain through a hair-sieve. Do not pack hard. It will 
make the sausages tough. 

Scrappel. — Boil a hog's head one day, and let it stand five 
or six hours, or all night. Slip out the bones and chop 
fine ; then return the meat to the liquor ; skim when cold ; 
warm and season freely with pepper, salt, sage, and sweet 
herbs. Add two cupfuls of buckwheat-meal and one cup- 
ful of corn-meal. Put into molds, and when cold cut into 
slices and fry for breakfast. 

Boiled Pork. — The shoulder or leg are regarded as the 
most economical pieces for boiling. They should be well 
salted first, by about ten days' pickling. Boil precisely as 
ham is boiled, but not for so long a time, about three hours 
sufficing to thoroughly cook an ordinary sized leg of pork. 
After it has come to the boiling point, let the process pro- 
ceed slowly as possible. Peel off the skin when done and 
spot the surface with dashes of red and black pepper, or 
with allspice, or garnish with parsley. 

Souse. — Pigs' feet and ears may be soused by cleaning 
thoroughly, soaking in salt and water several days, and then 
boiling till the bones can be picked out with ease and the 
skin peeled off. Cover the meat and gelatinous substance 
with boiling vinegar, highly spiced with peppercorns and 
mace. This may be eaten cold or the meat may be fried 
after dipping in egg and cracker. 

Pig's head may be prepared the same way, the meat being 
chopped fine and mixed with pounded crackers. Mix with 
herbs, spices, salt, and pepper to taste, and a small quantity 
of vinegar. Press into a mold, or a jar, and cut in slices 
To be eaten cold. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



VI.— VEGETABLES. 

VEGETABLES SHOULD BE FRESH — HOW TO WASH AND PRESERVE — ' 
HOW TO COOK WELL, AND IMPORTANCE OF SO DOING — SUITABLE 

POTS FOR COOKING VEGETABLES VEGETABLES SUITABLE TO 

CERTAIN MEATS. FIFTY-FIVE RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES. 

ALL vegetables should be used when fresh as possible. 
Wash them thoroughly, and allow them to lie in cold 
water until ready to be used. 

Great care must be taken to remove gravel and insects 
from heads of lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower. To do 
this, lay them for half an hour or more in a pan of strong 
brine, placing the stalk ends uppermost. This will destroy 
the small snails and other insects which cluster in the 
leaves, and they will fall out and sink to the bottom. 

Strong-flavored vegetables, like turnips, cabbage, and 
greens, require to be put into a large quantity of water. 
More delicate vegetables, such as peas, asparagus, etc, 
require less water. As a rule, in boiling vegetables, let the 
water boil before putting them in, and let it continue to 
boil until they are done. Nothing is more indigestible than 
vegetables not thoroughly cooked. Just when they are 
done must be ascertained to a certainty in each particular 
case, without depending upon any general directions. 

Never let boiled vegetables stand in the water after com- 
ing off the fire ; put them instantly into a colander over a 
pot of boiling water, and let them remain there, if you have 
to keep them back from the table. 

An iron pot will spoil the color of the finest greens; they 
should be boiled by themselves in a tin, brass, or copper 
vessel. 

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D OMES TIC CO OKER Y 



Potatoes are good with all meats. Carrots, parsnips, tur« 
nips, greens, and cabbage belong with boiled meats ; beets, 
peas, and beans are appropriate to either boiled or roast. 

RECIPES. 

Boiled White Potatoes. — Peel off a strip about a quarter ot 
an inch wide, lengthwise, around each potato. Put them 
on in cold water, with a teaspoonful of salt in it. Let them 
boil fifteen minutes, then pour off half the water and replace 
it with cold water. When the edge of the peel begins to 
curl up they are done. Remove them from the pot, cover 
the bottom of a baking-tin with them, place them in the 
oven, with a towel over them, for fifteen minutes, leaving 
the oven door open. Then serve with or without the skins. 

The use of cold water in boiling potatoes, as in this recipe, 
is exceptional. Hot water is generally used, but for this 
purpose cold seems preferable. 

Roasted White Potatoes. — Select the largest and finest 
potatoes for roasting. Wash them thoroughly and put in 
the oven with their skins on. Roast about one hour, turn- 
ing them occasionally with a fork. When done, send them 
to the table hot, and in their skins. 

Potatoes Roasted with Meats. — To roast potatoes with beef, 
poultry, and other meats, peel the potatoes, lay them in a 
pan, and cook them in the gravy. It is quite proper to 
roast both white and sweet of potatoes in the same pan. 

Mashed Potatoes. — Steam or boil pared potatoes until soft, 
in salted water ; pour off the water and let them drain per- 
fectly dry ; sprinkle with salt and mash ; have ready hot 
milk or cream, in which has been melted a piece of butter - r 
pour this on the potatoes, and stir until white and very light. 
A solid, heavy masher is not desirable. An open wire tooi 
is much better. 



VEGETABLES. 



93 



Stewed Potatoes. — Take sound raw potatoes, and divide 
each into four parts, or more, if they be very large. Put 
them into the stewpan ; add salt, pepper, and a piece of 
fresh butter; pour in milk, with a little cream, just to keep 
the potatoes from burning. Cover the saucepan, and allow 
the potatoes to stew until thoroughly soft and tender. 

Fried Potatoes. — Boil some good and large potatoes until 
nearly done ; set them aside a few minutes ; when suffi- 
ciently cool, slice or chop them ; sprinkle them with pepper 
and salt, and fry in butter or fresh lard until they are of a 
light brown color. Serve hot. 

Saratoga Potatoes. — Peel and slice the potatoes on a slaw- 
cutter, into cold water ; wash them thoroughly, and drain ; 
spread between the folds of a clean cloth, rub and pat until 
dry. Fry a few at a time in boiling lard ; salt as you take 
them out. Saratoga potatoes are very nice when eaten cold. 
They can be prepared three or four hours before needed, 
and if kept in a warm place they will be crisp and nice. 
They may be used for garnishing game and steaks. 

Potato Cakes. — Mash thoroughly a lot of potatoes just 
boiled ; add a little salt, butter and cream ; fry brown on 
both sides, after making into little cakes. 

Boiled Sweet Potatoes. — Take large, fine potatoes, wash 
clean ; boil with the skins on in plenty of water, but without 
salt. They will take at least one hour. Drain off the water, 
and set them for a few minutes in a tin pan before the fire, 
or in the oven, that they may be well dried. Peel them be- 
fore sending to the table. 

Roasted Sweet Potatoes. — Sweet potatoes are roasted in the 
same manner as white, but they require a little longer time. 

Fried Sweet Potatoes. — Choose large potatoes, half boil 
them, and then, having taken off the skins, cut the potatoes 
in slices and fry in butter, or in nice drippings. 



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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



Stewed Tomatoes. — Pour boiling water on the tomatoes to 
be used, and then peel and slice them. Stew them gently, 
without adding any water, fifteen minutes ; then add some 
pulverized cracker or bread crumbs, sufficient to thicken it 
a little, and salt and pepper to your taste. Stew fifteen min- 
utes longer, and add a large piece of butter. 

The thickening suggested is not essential. Many prefer 
the pure tomatoes. Try both ways and adopt the more 
pleasing. 

Broiled Tomatoes. — Cut large tomatoes in two, from side to 
side, not from top to bottom ; place them on a gridiron, the 
cut surface down ; when well seared, turn them and put on 
butter, salt, and pepper ; then cook with the skin side down 
until done. 

Fried Tomatoes. — Cut the tomatoes in slices without skin- 
ning ; pepper and salt them well ; then sprinkle a little flour 
over them and fry in butter until browned. Put them on a 
hot platter ; then pour milk or cream into the butter and 
juice, and when this is boiling hot, pour it over the tomatoes. 

Tomatoes Baked Whole. — Select a number of sound, ripe 
tomatoes. Cut a round hole in the stem side of each, and 
stuff it with bread-crumbs, nicely peppered and salted ; cover 
the bottom of the pan with the tomatoes, the opened side 
upward ; put in a very little water, dredge with flour, and 
bake till brown. Serve hot. 

Baked Sliced Tomatoes. — Skin the tomatoes, slice in small 
pieces ; spread a thick layer in the bottom of a pudding 
dish ; cover with a thin layer of bread-crumbs, and sprinkle 
salt, pepper, and a few small pieces of butter over them ; 
add another layer of tomatoes, then of crumbs, etc., until 
the dish is filled ; sprinkle over the top a layer of fine rolled 
crackers ; bake one hour. Canned tomatoes, put up whole, 
may be used nicely this way. 



VEGETABLES. 



05 



Tomatoes a la Creme. — Pare and slice ripe tomatoes ; one 
pound of fresh ones or a quart can ; stew until perfectly 
smooth, season with salt and pepper, and add a piece of but- 
ter the size of an egg. Just before taking from the fire, stir 
In one cup of cream, with a tablespoonful of flour stirred 
smooth in a part of it ; do not let it boil after the flour is put 
in. Have ready in a dish some pieces of toast ; pour the 
tomatoes over this and serve. 

Boiled Green Com. — Take off the outside leaves and the 
silk, letting the innermost leaves remain on until after the 
corn is boiled, which renders the corn much sweeter. Boil 
for half an hour in plenty of water, drain, and after fully re- 
moving the leaves, serve. 

Baked Com. — Grate one dozen ears of sweet corn, one cup 
of milk, a small piece of butter ; salt to taste, and bake in a 
pudding dish for one hour. 

Corn Fritters, see Fritters. 

Lima Beans. — Shell, wash, and put into boiling water-, 
when boiled tender, drain and season them. Dress with 
cream, or with a large lump of butter, and let the whole 
simmer for a few moments before serving. 

Succotash. — Take ten ears of green corn and one pint ot 
Lima beans ; cut the corn from the cob, and stew gently 
with the beans until tender. Use as little water as possible. 
Season with butter, salt, and pepper — milk, if you choose. 
If a few of the cobs are stewed in the succotash, it will 
improve the flavor, as there is great sweetness in the cob. 

String Beans. — Remove the strings of the beans with a 
knife, and cut off both ends. Cut each bean into three 
pieces, boil tender, add butter when they are done, pepper 
and salt, and serve hot. 

Boiled Beans. — Dried beans must soak over night in soft 
water ; put them in a strong bag, leaving room for them to 



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swell ; let them boil in a plenty of water until done ; hang 
up the bag that all the water may drain off; then season 
with butter, pepper, and salt to the taste. 

Baked Beans. — Put the beans to soak early in the evening, 
in a dish that will allow plenty of water to be used. Change 
the water at bed-time. Next morning early, parboil two 
hours ; pour off nearly all the water ; take raw pork, scored 
on top ; put the beans in a deep dish, a stoneware jar is very 
nice, the pork in the middle, sinking it so as to have it just 
level with the surface. Add half a teaspoonful of soda, two 
tablespoonfuls of molasses, and bake at least six hours. As 
the beans bake dry, add more water, a little at a time, until 
the last hour, when it is not necessary to moisten them. 

Boiled Green Peas. — The peas should be young and freshly 
shelled ; wash and drain them carefully ; put them into fast- 
boiling, salted water ; when quite tender drain, and add pep- 
per, butter, and a little milk. Serve hot. 

Boiled Asparagus. — Scrape the stems of the asparagus 
lightly, but make them very clean, throwing them into cold 
water as you proceed. When all are scraped, tie them in 
bunches of equal size ; cut the hard ends evenly, that all 
may be of the same length, and put into boiling water. 
Prepare several slices of delicately browned toast half an 
inch thick. When the stalks are tender, lift them out and 
season with pepper and salt. Dip the toast quickly into the 
liquor in which the asparagus was boiled, and dish the veg- 
etable upon it, the points, or the butts, meeting in the cen- 
tre of the dish. Pour rich melted butter over it, and send 
to the table hot. 

Boiled Beets. — Wash, but do not cut them, as cutting de- 
stroys the sweetness ; let them boil from two to three hours, 
or until they are perfectly tender ; then take them up, peel 
and slice them, and pour vinegar, or melted butter, over 
them, as may be preferred. 



VEGETABLES. 



9i 



Boiled Turnips, — Pare and cut into pieces ; put them into 
boiling water well salted, and boil until tender ; drain thor- 
oughly and then mash and add a piece of butter, pepper, 
and salt to taste. Stir until they are thoroughly mixed, and 
serve hot. 

Boiled Onions. — Skin them carefully and put them to boil ; 
when they have boiled a few minutes, pour off the water, 
add clean cold water, and then set them to boil again. 
Pour this away also, and add more cold water, when they 
may boil till done. This change of waters will make them 
white and clear, and very mild in flavor. After they are 
done, pour off all the water, and dress with a little cream, 
salt, and pepper to taste. 

Fried Onions. — Peel and slice fresh, solid onions very 
evenly, then fry them in a pan of hot butter till slightly 
browned. 

Boiled Leeks. — Trim off the coarser leaves of young leeks, 
cut them into equal lengths, tie them in small bunches, and 
boil in plenty of water, previously salted. Serve on toast, 
and send melted butter to the table with them. 

Boiled Squash. — Remove the seeds ; boil till very tender ; 
then press out all the water through a colander, and mash, 
with butter, pepper, and salt. 

Fried Squash. — Pare the squash, cut in slices, dip in egg 
seasoned with pepper and salt, then into cracker dust, and 
fry to a nice brown. 

Boiled Parsnips. — Scrape thoroughly, then wash and boil 
in a little water well salted. When done, dress with butter 
and a little pepper, or drawn butter, if desired. 

Fried Parsnips. — Having boiled your parsnips, split open 
the largest ones, season with pepper and salt, dredge a little 
flour over them, and fry to a light brown. 

7 



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9.8 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



Fried Egg-plant. — Fare and cut in slices quarter of an inch 
thick ; sprinkle with salt ; cover and let stand for an hour. 
Pour off the juice or water which exudes; wipe each slice 
dry ; dip first in beaten egg, then in rolled cracker or bread 
crumbs. Season with pepper and salt, and fry brown in but- 
ter. Serve very hot. 

Fried Egg-plant No. 2. — Put into water and boil until soft, 
then cut in two and scoop out all the inside ; season ; take 
a tablespoonful of the remaining pulp at a time, dip in egg 
and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot lard. Serve hot. 

Baked Egg-plant. — Boil them till somewhat tender, in order 
to remove the bitter flavor. Then slit each one down the 
side, and take out the seeds. Have ready a stuffing made 
of grated cracker, butter, minced herbs, salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, and beaten yelk of eggs. Fill with this the cavity left 
by the seeds, and bake the plants in a hot oven. Serve with 
well-seasoned gravy poured around them in the dish. 

Boiled Cabbage. — Strip off the loose or withered leaves, and 
wash well ; then split in two, or if the head be very large, 
into four pieces, and put into boiling water with some salt; 
let it boil slowly, skimming carefully and frequently. When 
done, strain through a colander. Serve in a vegetable-dish 
and lay inside, among the leaves, some bits of butter ; sea- 
son with pepper, and serve while hot. 

Boiled Cauliflower. — Trim off all the outside leaves ; wrap 
in a cloth and put into boiling water well salted ; boil until 
tender, and then serve with drawn butter. 

Cabbage a la Cauliflower. — Cut the cabbage fine, as for 
slaw ; put it into a stewpan, cover with water, and keep 
closely covered ; when tender, drain off the water ; put in a 
small piece of butter, with a little salt, one-half a cupful of 
cream, or one cupful of milk. Leave on the stove a few 
minutes before serving-. 



VEGETABLES. 



99 



Boiled Spinach. — Boil the spinach in plenty of water, drain, 
and press the moisture from it ; chop it small, put it into a 
clean saucepan, with a slice of fresh butter, and stir the 
whole until well mixed and very hot. Smooth it in a dish, 
and send it quickly to table. 

Boiled Greens. — Turnip-tops, mustard-tops, cabbage-leaves, 
beet-tops, cowslips, dandelions, and various similar articles 
are much relished in the spring, boiled in salt and water or 
with salt pork. When done sufficiently they will sink to 
the bottom. 

Stewed Celery. — Clean the heads thoroughly ; take off the 
coarse, green, outer leaves ; cut the stalks into small pieces, 
and stew in a little broth ; when tender, add some rich 
cream, a little flour, and butter enough to thicken the 
cream. Season with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg, if 
that is agreeable. 

Boiled Artichokes. — Soak the artichokes and wash them in 
several waters ; cut the stalks even ; trim away the lower 
leaves, and the ends of the other leaves ; boil in salted 
water with the tops downward, and let them remain until 
the leaves can be easily drawn out. Before serving, remove 
the surrounding leaves, and send the remainder to the table 
with melted butter. 

Broiled Mushrooms. — In order to test mushrooms, sprinkle 
salt on the gills ; if they turn yellow, they are poisonous ; if 
they turn black, they are good. When satisfied at this 
point, pare, and cut off the stems, dip them in melted butter, 
season with salt and pepper, broil them on both sides over 
a clear fire, and serve on toast. 

Stewed Mushrooms. — Being sure you have the genuine 
mushrooms, put them in a small saucepan, season with 
pepper and salt, add a spoonful of butter and a spoonful or 
two of gravy from roast meat, or, if this be not at hand, the 



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same quantity of good, rich cream ; shake them about ovei 
the fire, and when they boil they are done. 

Boiled Rice. — Wash a cupful of rice in two or three 
waters ; let it lie for a few minutes in the last water, then 
put it into three quarts of fast-boiling water, with a little 
salt ; let it boil twenty minutes, then turn into a colander, 
drain, and serve, using such sauce or dressing as may be 
desired. 

Boiled Hominy. — Soak one cupful of fine hominy over 
night' in three cupfuls of water, and salt to taste ; in the 
morning turn it into a quart pail ; then put the pail into a 
kettle of boiling water, cover tightly, and steam one hour ; 
add one teacupful of sweet milk, and boil fifteen minutes 
additional, then serve hot. 

Stewed Macaroni. — Break the macaroni into small pieces, 
wash it, and put into salted hot water ; cook about twenty 
minutes ; drain, and put in a vegetable dish a layer of 
macaroni, sprinkle with grated cheese, bits of butter, pepper 
and salt; proceed in this manner until the dish is full, but 
omit the cheese at the last. Set the dish in the oven for a 
few minutes, and let it get thoroughly hot. 

Baked Macaroni. — For baked macaroni, proceed as in 
stewed, but, when prepared fully as above, pour a few 
spoonfuls of milk over the top, and bake half an hour. 

Macaroni with Tomatoes. — Have water boiling in a large 
saucepan; throw into it macaroni, broken, but not too short; 
let it cook twenty to thirty minutes, pour over it some cold 
water, and strain it quite dry ; cut an onion into small dice, 
throw it into cold water and squeeze it dry in a cloth ; put 
some olive oil, butter, or clarified fat into a saucepan ; the 
oil, of course, is best. Throw into it the onion, and let it 
nook, shaking occasionally, until the onion is almost melted 
away. Have some cooked tomatoes ready to add to this 



VEGETABLES. 



101 



sauce. If it is too thick, add some cold water by teaspoon- 
fuls at a time. Let all simmer for ten minutes longer. 
Sprinkle some grated cheese over your macaroni, which 
must be piping hot, in a dish. Pour the sauce over this and 
serve. A quarter of a pound of macaroni makes a large 
dish, and takes about a third of a can to half a can of 
tomatoes. 

Sliced Cucumbers. — Peel and slice the cucumbers as thin as 
possible; lay the slices in salted water for an hour; then 
pour off the water; cover them with vinegar, half a tea- 
spoonful of pepper, and salt as may be necessary. 

Stewed Oyster-plant — Cut off the tops of a bunch of 
salsify, or oyster-plant, close to the root ; scrape and wash 
well, and slice lengthwise or round ; stew until tender in 
salted water; drain and put in a stewpan, cover with milk; 
to one pint of salsify add a tablespoonful of butter rolled in 
flour ; season with salt and pepper ; let it stew a few min- 
utes and add a little vinegar, if liked. 

Mock Fried Oysters. — Scrape one bunch of salsify, and boil 
until tender ; mash through a colander, add one beaten egg, 
a small piece of butter, salt and pepper to taste ; drop by the 
spoonful into hot lard and fry brown. 



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ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



VII.— SALADS AND SAUCES. 




«sf& 



SALADS DEFINED — HOW DRESSED, COMBINED, AND SERVKD 

SAUCES DEFINED 1HEIR USES AND COMPOSITION. HOW T0> 

PREPARE INGREDIENTS FOR SALADS, WHAT VEGETABLES TO 
EMPLOY, FRESHNESS, EXCELLENCE, ETC. FORTY-SIX RECIPES- 
FOR SALADS AND SAUCES. 

UNDER the head of salads all preparations of uncooked 
herbs or vegetables is placed. They are usually 
dressed with salt, vinegar, oil, and spices. Sometimes 
they are combined with meat or shell fish, as chicken, veal, 
lobster, etc. They are used chiefly as relishes with other 
food. 

Sauces are generally used to impart a relish to articles 
of food. Sometimes vegetables are employed as the basis 
of sauces, but they are compounded chiefly of savory con- 
diments, that they may add zest to eating. 

Meat or fish used in salads should not be minced, but 
rather picked apart, or cut in pieces of moderate size. Cab- 
bage, celery, asparagus, cauliflower, water-cress, and all 
kinds of lettuce are the vegetables best adapted for use in 
salads. They must be used, when quite fresh and crisp, . n nd 
all the ingredients used in their dressing must be of the 
best quality and flavor. 

All condiments are in some sense sauces, but the term is 
usually confined to those which are the result of compound- 
ing a variety of articles. 

RECIPES. 

Coldslaw. — With a sharp knife, or, better, with a knife 
made for the purpose, cut up into fine shavings a firm head 
of cabbage ; sprinkle with as much salt and pepper as you 

102 



SALADS AND SAUCES. 



1 03 



deem necessary ; beat up the yelk of one egg, add a lump 
of butter the size of a walnut, a gill of cream, the same 
quantity of vinegar, a tablespoonful of sugar, an even tea- 
spoonful of mustard, and a pinch of bruised celery seed. 
Heat these condiments together, without boiling, and pour 
over the sliced cabbage ; then toss it with a fork until thor- 
oughly mixed. Allow time for it to cool before serving. 

Coldslaw, No. 2. — Take equal parts of chopped cabbage 
and the green stalks of celery. Season with salt, pepper, 
and vinegar. 

Maryland Coldslaw. — Halve the cabbage and lay it in cold 
water for one hour ; shave down the head into small slips 
with a sharp knife. Put in a saucepan a cup of vinegar, and 
let it boil ; then add a cup of cream, with the yelks of two 
eggs, well beaten ; let it boil up, and pour over the cabbage. 
As soon as the cabbage is cut it should be sprinkled with a 
little salt and pepper. 

Cabbage Salad. — Take one head of fine, white cabbage, 
minced fine ; three hard-boiled eggs ; two tablespoonfuls 
of salad oil ; two teaspoonfuls white sugar ; one teaspoonful 
salt ; one teaspoonful pepper; one teaspoonful made mustard; 
one teacupful vinegar. Mix and pour upon the chopped 
cabbage. 

Lettuce Salad. -^Take a good-sized head of lettuce and pull 
the leaves apart. Wash them a moment, then shake off the 
water and dry the leaves. Examine them carefully, wipe 
off all grit, and reject those that are bruised. Take the yelks 
of two hard-boiled eggs ; add one-half teaspoonful of mixed 
mustard, and mix to a paste with a silver fork ; then add 
slowly/mixing carefully, about one-half a cup of vinegar, 
one teaspoonful of sugar, and salt to taste ; cut the lettuce 
small as may be desired with a sharp knife, and pour the 
dressing over it ; garnish with hard-boiled eggs. 



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Potato Salad. — Steam and slice the potatoes ; add a very 
little raw onion chopped very fine, and a little parsley, and 
pour over the whole a nice salad dressing. Serve either 
warm or cold, as may be preferred. 

Potato Salad, No. 2. — Cut up three quarts of boiled potatoes, 
while hot, into neat pieces ; add a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, a teaspoonful of 
pepper, and one of salt ; also add a cupful of oil, and mix ; 
then add a cupful of warm stock, a wineglassful of vinegar 
(from the mixed-pickle bottle) ; mix the ingredients together 
carefully, and do not break the potatoes any more than is 
absolutely unavoidable. Set the whole in the ice-box and 
serve cold. The onion and parsley may be omitted, and 
boiled root celery added, or a little stalk celery chopped fine. 

Chicken Salad. — Boil a small chicken until very tender. 
When entirely cold, remove the skin and fat, cut the meat 
into small bits, then cut the white part of the stalks of celery 
into pieces of similar size, until you have twice as much 
celery as meat. Mix the chicken and celery together; pour 
on Durkee's Salad Dressing, and stir all thoroughly. Cold 
veal used in place of chicken will also make a very excel- 
lent salad. 

Chicken Salad, No. 2. — Take three chickens, boil until very 
tender ; when cold, chop them, but not too fine ; add twice 
the quantity of celery cut fine, and three hard-boiled eggs 
sliced. Make a dressing with two cups of vinegar, half a 
cup of butter (or two tablespoonfuls of oil), two eggs 
beaten, with a large tablespoonful of mustard, saltspoonful of 
salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, tablespoonful of pepper, 
or a little cayenne pepper ; put the vinegar into a tin pan 
and set in a kettle of boiling water ; beat the other ingre- 
dients together thoroughly and stir slowly into the vinegar 
until it thickens. Cool it and pour over the salad just be- 
fore serving. 



SALADS AND SAUCES. 



105 



Lobster Salad. — To a three-pound lobster take the yelk of 
one raw egg beaten very lightly ; then take the yelks of 
three hard-boiled eggs (cold), and add to the raw yelk, 
beating all the time ; add, a few drops at a time, one-half 
bottle of the finest olive oil, stirring all the while ; then add 
one and a half tablespoonfuls of the best English mustard, 
salt and pepper to taste ; beat the mixture until light and 
add a tablespoonful of strong vinegar. Cut the lobster into 
small pieces and mix with it salt and pepper; pour over it 
the dressing just before sending to the table ; garnish with 
the white of boiled eggs, celery tops, and the small claws. 

Salmon Salad. — For a pound can of salmon, garnished with 
lettuce, make a dressing of one small teacupful of vinegar, 
butter half the size of an egg, one teaspoonful of mustard, 
one-half teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one-half teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, two eggs. When 
cold, add one-half teacupful of cream and pour over the 
salmon. 

Mixed Mustard.— One tablespoonful of mustard, one tea- 
spoonful of sugar, one saltspoonful of salt, enough vinegar 
to blend into a paste. 

Plain Horse-radish is grated and merely covered with sharp 
vinegar. 

Horse-radish Sauce. — Take one tablespoonful of grated 
horse-radish, a dessertspoonful of mustard, half a teaspoonful 
of sugar ; then add vinegar, and stir it smooth. Serve in a 
sauce-tureen. 

Tomato Sauce. — Stew one-half dozen tomatoes with a little 
chopped parsley ; salt and pepper to taste ; strain, and when 
it commences to boil add a tablespoonful of flour, stirred 
smooth with the same quantity of butter. When it boils it 
is ready to take up. 



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Tomato Sauce, No. 2. — Halve the tomatoes and squeeze out 
the seeds and watery pulp. Stew the solid portions gently 
with a little gravy or strong broth until they are entirely 
softened. Strain through a hair sieve and reheat with 
additional gravy, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Serve hot. 

Green Tomato Sauce. — Cut up two gallons of green toma- 
toes ; take three gills of black mustard seed, three table- 
spoonfuls of dry mustard, two and a half of black pepper, 
one and a half of allspice, four of salt, two of celery seed, 
one quart each of chopped onions and sugar, and two and 
a half quarts of good vinegar, a little red pepper to taste. 
Beat the spices and boil all together until well done. 

Chili Sauce. — Take ten pounds of ripe tomatoes, peeled 
and sliced ; two pounds of peeled onions chopped fine ; 
seven ounces of green peppers finely chopped, without the 
seeds ; six ounces of brown sugar ; four ounces salt ; a pint 
and a half of vinegar. Boil all together in a porcelain-lined 
kettle for several hours, until thick as desired ; put up in 
tight cans or jars, and use with soups and gravies. 

Celery Sauce. — Pick and wash two heads of celery ; cut 
them into pieces one inch long, and stew them in a pint of 
water, with one teaspoonful of salt, until the celery is tender. 
Rub a large spoonful of butter and a spoonful of flour well 
together ; stir this into a pint of cream ; put in the celery, 
and let it boil up once. Serve hot with boiled poultry. 

Mint Sauce. — Wash the sprigs of mint, let them dry on a 
towel, strip off the leaves, and chop them very fine ; put in 
a sauce-boat with a cupful of vinegar and four lumps ot 
sugar; let it stand an hour, and before serving stir all 
together. Mint sauce, if bottled, will keep a long time, 
and be just as good, if not better, than when freshly made. 

Asparagus Sauce. — Take a dozen heads of asparagus ; two 
tcacupfuls drawn butter; two eggs; the juice of half a 



SALADS AND SAUCES. 



107 



cemon ; salt and white pepper. Boil the tender heads in a 
very little salt water. Drain and chop them. Have ready 
a pint of drawn butter, with two raw eggs beaten into it ; 
add the asparagus, and season, squeezing in the lemon juice 
last. The butter must be hot, but do not cook after putting 
in the asparagus heads. This is a delightful sauce for boiled 
fowls, stewed fillet of veal, or boiled mutton. 

Mushroom Sauce. — Pick, rub, and wash a pint of young 
mushrooms, and sprinkle with salt to take off the skin. Put 
them into a saucepan with a little salt, a blade of mace, a 
little nutmeg, a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in 
flour ; boil them up and stir till done. 

Caper Sauce. — Make a drawn butter sauce, and add two or 
three tablespoonfuls of French capers ; remove from the fire 
and add a little lemon juice. 

Cranberry Sauce. — Cover a quart of cranberries with water 
and let it simmer gently till thoroughly cooked. Strain the 
skins out through a colander, and add to the juice two cup- 
fuls of sugar ; let it simmer again for fifteen minutes, and 
pour into a mold previously wet in cold water. 

Strawberry Sauce. — Rub half a cupful of butter and one 
cupful of sugar to a cream ; add the beaten white of an 
egg and one cupful of strawberries thoroughly mashed. 

Lemon Sauce. — One-half a cupful of butter, one cupful of 
sugar, yelks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of corn-starch. 
Beat the eggs and sugar until light ; add the grated rind 
and juice of one lemon. Stir the whole into three gills 
of boiling water until it thickens sufficiently for the table. 

Lemon Sauce, No. 2. — One large tablespoonful of butter, one 
small tablespoonful of flour, one cupful of sugar, grated 
rind and juice of one lemon. 



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Vanilla Sauce. — Put half a pint of milk in a small sauce 
pan over the fire ; when scalding hot add the yelks of 
three eggs, and stir until it is as thick as boiled custard ; 
remove the saucepan from the fire, and when cool add a 
tablespoonful of extract of vanilla and the beaten whites of 
two eggs. 

Venison Sauce. — Mix two teaspoonfuls of currant jelly, 
one stick of cinnamon, one blade of mace, grated white 
bread, ten tablespoonfuls of water ; let the whole stew till 
thoroughly cooked, when done serve with venison steak. 

Anchovy Sauce. — Stir two or three teaspoonfuls of pre- 
pared essence or paste of anchovy, into a pint of melted 
butter ; let the sauce boil a few minutes, and flavor with, 
lemon juice. 

Lobster Sauce. — Break the shell of the lobster into small 
pieces. Pour over these one pint of water or veal-stock 
and a pinch of salt ; simmer gently until the liquid is re- 
duced one-half. Mix two ounces of butter with an ounce 
of flour, strain the liquid upon it and stir all, over the fire, 
until the mixture thickens, but do not let it boil. Add two 
tablespoonfuls of lobster meat chopped fine, the juice of half 
a lemon, and serve. 

Oyster Sauce. — Strain fifty oysters ; put the juice into a 
saucepan ; add one pint of new milk ; let it simmer, and 
then skim off whatever froth may rise. Rub a large spoon- 
ful of flour and two of butter together ; stir this into the 
liquor ; add a little salt and pepper. Let this simmer five 
minutes, but do not add the oysters till just as they are to 
be sent to the table, as oysters much cooked are hard. For 
turkeys, etc., this is a splendid dressing. 

Plain French Dressing. — A plain French dressing is made 
simply of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. Three tablespoon- 
fuls of oil to one of vinegar, saltspoon heaping full of salt, 
an even saltspoonful of pepper mixed with a little cayenne. 



SALADS AND SAUCE*. 



109 



Mayonnaise Sauce. — Work the yelks of two raw eggs to a 
smooth paste, and add two saltspoonfuls of salt, half a salt- 
spoonful of cayenne, a saltspoonful of dry mustard, and a 
teaspoonful of oil; mix these thoroughly and add the 
strained juice of half a lemon. Take what remains of half 
a pint of olive oil and add it gradually, a teaspoonful at a 
time, and every fifth teaspoonful add a few drops of 
lemon juice until you have used two lemons and the half- 
pint *of oil. 

Mayonnaise Sauce, No. 2. — Rub the yelks of three hard- 
boiled eggs with the yelk of one raw egg to a smooth paste ; 
add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, two saltspoonfuls of 
white pepper, and two saltspoonfuls of made mustard ; 
mix thoroughly and work a gill of oil gradually into the 
mixture, alternated with a teaspoonful of vinegar, until you 
have used three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Should the 
sauce appear too thick, add a wineglassful of cream. 

Butter Sauce. — Mix well together two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, some chopped parsley, juice of half a lemon, salt, 
and pepper. For broiled meat or fish. 

Brown Butter Sauce. — Put butter into a frying-pan and let 
it stand on the fire until very brown ; then add a little pars- 
ley and fry a moment longer. 

Drawn Butter Sauce. — Take one-quarter pound of butter ; 
rub with it two teaspoonfuls of flour. When well mixed, 
put into a saucepan with one-half pint of water ; cover it, 
and set the saucepan into a larger one full of boiling water. 
Shake it constantly till completely melted and beginning to 
boil ; season with salt and pepper. 

Boiled Egg Sauce. — Add to half a pint of drawn butter 
sauce two or three hard-boiled eggs, chopped. 



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White Sauce. — Thicken half a pint of new milk with a lit 
tie flour or arrowroot. After it has boiled, stir in slowly 
about two ounces of fresh butter, cut into small pieces. 
Continue to stir until the butter is completely dissolved. 
Add a few thin strips of lemon rind, a little salt, and 
pounded mace. 

White Sauce, No. 2.— Boil a few thin strips of lemon peel 
in half a pint of good veal gravy just long enough to give 
it their flavor. Stir in a thickening of arrowroot, or flour 
and butter ; add salt and a quarter of a pint of boiling 
cream. 

Cream Sauce. — Beat the yelks of three eggs, three table- 
spoonfuls of white sugar, and vanilla flavor. Turn on it a 
pint of boiling milk, and stir well. 

Brandy Sauce. — Four ounces of sugar and two ounces of 
butter, well creamed together; then beat an egg into it, 
with two ounces of brandy. 

Wine Sauce. — Take one pint bowl of white sugar, not 
quite a quarter of a pound of butter, one glass of wine, one 
grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of warm water ; beat 
together steadily for half an hour. 

Hard Sauce. — One cupful butter, three cupfuls sugar; beat 
very hard, flavoring with lemon juice ; smooth into shape 
with a knife dipped into cold water. 

Sauces in General. — Worcestershire, Challenge, Annear, 
and other sauces in the market have each their specially good 
points. Trial of them should be made and the best used. 




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VIII.— CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 



CROQUETTES DEFINED; FRITTERS DEFINED; USES OF Bo'If 
TWENTY-FOUR RECIPES FOR CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 

THE term croquette (pronounced cro-ket) is from a French 
verb, meaning " to crunch." It designates all that class 
of preparations made of minced meat, or other in- 
gredients, highly seasoned and fried in bread-crumbs. 

Fritters, like croquettes, are fried, but they are made of 
batter containing other ingredients, as taste may dictate. 
Both these preparations are used as accessories of the din- 
ner or tea table rather than as principal dishes. 

RECIPES. 

Rice Croquettes. — Put a quarter of a pound of rice into a 
pint of milk. Let it simmer gently until the rice is tender 
and the milk absorbed. It must then be boiled until thick 
and dry, or it will be difficult to mold. Add three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, one of butter, one egg, and flavor to taste 
with vanilla or cinnamon ; beat thoroughly for a few minutes, 
and when cold form into balls or cones, dip these into 
beaten egg, roll lightly in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot butter. 

Hominy Croquettes. — To a cupful of cold boiled hominy 
(small grained) add a tablespoonful of melted butter and stir 
hard; moisten by degrees with a cupful of milk, beating to a 
soft, light paste. Put in a teaspoonful of white sugar and a 
well-beaten egg. Roll into oval balls with floured hands, 
dip in beaten egg, then in cracker-crumbs, and fry in hot 
lard. 

Ill 






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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



Potato Croquettes. — Season cold mashed potatoes with pep* 
per, salt, and nutmeg. Beat to a cream, with a tablespoon- 
ful of melted butter to every cupful of potato. Add two or 
three beaten eggs and some minced parsley. Roll into small 
balls; dip in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs, and fry in 
hot lard. 

Oyster-Plant Croquettes. — Wash, scrape, and boil the oyster- 
plant till tender ; rub it through a colander, and mix with 
the 'pulp a little butter, cream, salt, cayenne, and lemon j uice ; 
mix the ingredients thoroughly together to a smooth paste, 
and set the dish in the ice-box to get cold ; then shape it 
into small cones, dip them in beaten egg, roll in crumbs, 
and fry crisp and brown. 

Chicken Croquettes. — Add to the quantity of minced chicken; 
about one-quarter the quantity of bread-crumbs, also one 
egg well beaten to each cupful of meat ; pepper, salt, and 
chopped parsley to taste, add the yelks of two hard-boiled 
eggs rubbed smooth. Add gravy or drawn butter to moisten 
it, make into cones or balls, roll in cracker-dust or flour, 
and fry in hot lard. 

Veal Croquettes. — Make these the same as chicken cro- 
quettes, by substituting for the chicken cold minced veal and 
ham in equal parts. The salt may be omitted, as the 
ham usually supplies it sufficiently. Turkey, duck, or the 
remains of any cold game or meat may be used in the same 
way with very satisfactory results. 

Oyster Croquettes. — Take the hard ends of the oysters, leav- 
ing the other end for a soup or stew ; scald them, then chop 
fine, and add an equal weight of potatoes rubbed through a 
colander ; to one pound of this combination add two ounces 
of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pep- 
per, half a teaspoonful of mace, and one-half gill of cream, 
make in small rolls, dip them in egg and grated bread, fry 
in deep, hot lard. 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 



113 



Lobster Croquettes. — Chop the lobster very fine ; mix with 
pepper, salt, bread-crumbs, and a little parsley; moisten 
with cream and a small piece of butter ; shape with your 
hands ; dip in egg, roll in bread-crumbs, fry in hot lard. 

Plain Fritters. — Take one pint of flour, four eggs, one 
pint of boiling water, and one teaspoonful of salt. Stir the 
flour into the boiling water gradually, and let it boil three 
minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the fire and 
stir in the yelks of the eggs, afterward the whites, they hav- 
ing been well beaten. Drop this batter by large spoon- 
fuls into boiling lard and fry to a light brown. Serve hot 
powdered with white sugar. 

Bread Fritters. — Grate stale bread until you have a pint o 
crumbs ; pour a pint of boiling milk upon these, a table- 
spoonful of butter having been dissolved in it, and let the 
whole stand for an hour. Then beat up the mixture and 
flavor with nutmeg. Stir in gradually a quarter pound of 
white sugar, two tablespoonfuls of brandy, six well-beaten 
eggs, and currants enough to flavor the whole. The cur- 
rants should be washed, dried, and floured. Drop by large 
spoonfuls into boiling lard and fry to a light brown. Serve 
with wine and powdered sugar. 

Potato Fritters. — Break open four nicely baked potatoes ; 
scoop out the insides with a spoon, and mix with them a 
wineglassful of cream, a tablespoonful of brandy, two table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, the juice of one lemon, half a 
teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and well-beaten yelks of four 
and the whites of three eggs ; beat the batter until it is quite 
smooth ; drop large tablespoonfuls of the mixture into boil- 
ing fat and fry to a light brown ; dust them with powdered 
sugar and send to table hot. 

Corn Fritters. — Scrape twelve ears of corn, mix with two 
S 



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eggs, one and one-half cups of milk, salt and pepper to tasue 
and flour enough to hold all together. Fry in hot fat. 

Hominy Fritters. — Two teacupfuls of cold boiled hominy ;, 
stir in one teacupful of sweet milk and a little salt, four table- 
spoonfuls of sifted flour, and one egg ; beat the white sepa- 
rately and add last ; drop the batter by spoonfuls in hot lard 
and fry to a nice brown. 

Rice Fritters. — Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in milk 
till it is tender, then mix it with a pint of milk, two eggs, 
one cup of sugar, a little salt and cinnamon, and as much 
flour as will make a thick batter. Fry them in thin cakes 
and serve with butter and white powdered sugar. 

Parsnip Fritters. — Boil four good-sized parsnips in salted 
water until tender ; drain them, beat them to a pulp, and 
squeeze the water from them as much as possible ; bind 
them together with a beaten egg and a little flour. Shape 
into cakes and fry in hot lard. 

Fruit Fritters. — The following recipe will serve for many 
kinds of fruit or vegetable fritters: Make a batter of ten 
ounces of flour, half a pint of milk, and two ounces of but- 
ter ; sweeten and flavor to taste ; stir in the whites of two 
eggs well beaten; dip the fruit in the batter and fry. Small 
fruit and vegetables should be mixed with the batter. 

Apple Fritters. — Take one egg, two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
a little sifted sugar and ginger, with milk enough to make 
a smooth batter; cut a good sized apple into slices and put 
them into the batter. Put them into a frying-pan, with the 
batter which is taken up in the spoon. When fried, drain 
them on a sieve and sift on powdered sugar. 

Currant Fritters. — Take twocupfuls dry, fine bread-crumbs, 
two tablespoonfuls prepared flour, two cups of milk, one- 
half pound currants, washed and well dried ; five eggs 



CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 



115 



whipped very light and the yelks strained, one-half cup pow- 
dered sugar, one tablespoonful butter, one-half teaspoonful 
mixed cinnamon and nutmeg. Boil the milk and pour over 
the bread. Mix and put in the butter. Let it get cold. 
Beat in, next, the yelks and sugar, the seasoning, flour, and 
stiff whites, finally the currants dredged white with flour. 
The batter should be thick. Drop great spoonfuls into 
the hot lard and fry. Drain them and send hot to table. 
Eat with a mixture of wine and powdered sugar. 

Oyster Fritters. — Take one and one-half pints of sweet 
milk, one and one-fourth pounds of flour, four egg (the yelks 
having been beaten very thick) ; add milk and flour ; stir 
the whole well together, then beat the whites to a stiff froth 
and stir them gradually into the batter ; take a spoonful of 
the mixture, drop an oyster into it, and fry in hot lard ; let 
them be a light brown on both sides. 

Clam Fritters. — Take a dozen chopped clams, one pint of 
milk, three eggs. Add liquor from the clams, with salt and 
pepper, and flour enough to produce thin batter. Fry in 
hot lard. 

Cream Fritters. — Take one cup of cream, the whites of five 
eggs, two full cups prepared flour, one saltspoonful of nut- 
meg, a pinch of salt. Stir the whites into the cream in turn 
with the flour, put in nutmeg and salt, beat all hard for two 
minutes. The batter should be rather thick. Fry in plenty 
of sweet lard, a spoonful of batter for each fritter. Drain and 
serve upon a hot, clean napkin. Eat with jelly sauce. Do 
not cut them open, but break or pull them apart. 

French Fritters. — Take two cupfuls of flour, two teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, two eggs, milk enough for stiff 
batter, and a little salt. Drop into boiling lard and fry light 
brown. Serve with cream and sugar or sauce. 



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D OMES TIC CO OKER V. 



Spanish Fritters. — Cut stale bread into small, round slices 
about an inch thick ; soak them in milk, and then dip them 
into well-beaten egg which has been sweetened to taste. 
Sprinkle thickly with cinnamon and fry in hot lard. 

Venetian Fritters. — Take three ounces of whole rice, wash 
and drain into a pint of cold milk. Let it come slowly to a 
boil, stirring often, and let it simmer till quite thick and dry. 
Add two ounces of powdered sugar, one of fresh butter, a 
pinch of salt, the grated rind of half a lemon. Let the 
whole cool in the saucepan, and while still a little warm 
mix in three ounces of currants, four ounces of chopped 
apples, a teaspoonful of flour, and three well-beaten eggs. 
Drop the batter in small lumps into boiling fat, allowing 
them to fry till the under side is quite firm and brown ; then 
turn and brown the other side. When done, drain through 
a hair sieve, and powder with white sugar when about tc 
serve. 




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IX.— EGGS. 



•NUTRITIOUS VALUE OF EGGS TEST OF FRESHNESS PACKING EGG« 

— PRESERVING EGGS. TWENTY-EIGHT WAYS OF COOKING EGGS. 




HIGH chemical authorities agree that there is more nutri- 
ment in an egg than in any substance of equal bulk 
found in nature or produced by art. They are much 
used for food the world over, and few articles are capable 
of more varied employment. 

The freshness of an egg may be determined in various 
ways. In a fresh egg, the butt end, if touched on the 
tongue, is sensibly warmer than the point end. If held to- 
ward the light and looked through (" candled "), a fresh egg 
will show a clear white and a well-rounded yelk. A stale 
egg will appear muddled. Probably the surest test is to put 
the eggs into a pan of cold water. Fresh eggs sink quickly ; 
bad eggs float ; suspicious ones act suspiciously, neither 
sinking nor floating very decidedly. Of all articles of food, 
doubtful eggs are most certainly to be condemned. 

On the packing of eggs, the following conclusions may 
be regarded as established among egg-dealers : By cold 
storage, temperature forty to forty-two degrees Fahrenheit, 
kept uniform, with eggs packed properly or in cases, they 
will keep in good condition from six to nine months ; but 
they must be used soon after being taken out of the cold 
storage, as they soon spoil. Eggs become musty from being 
packed in bad material. They will become musty in cases, 
as a change of temperature causes the eggs to sweat and 
fcne wrapping-paper to become moist and taint the eggs. 

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Well-dried oats, a year old, makes the best packing. Eggs- 
become " mixed " by jarring in shipping. Fresh eggs mix 
worse than those kept in cold storage. Eggs which have- 
been held in cold storage in the West should be shipped in 
refrigerator cars in summer. Eggs will keep thirty days 
longer if stood on the little end than in any other position. 
They must be kept at an even temperature and in a pure 
atmosphere. Eggs laid on the side attach to the shell and 
are badly injured. To prevent imposition as to the freshness 
of the eggs, the egg gatherers should " candle " them when 
they get them from the farmers. Eggs keep better in the 
dark than in the light. 

Methods of preservation for domestic purposes are, to 
pack them in bran or salt, the small end down ; to grease 
them with linseed oil, or dip them in a light varnish. For 
extra long keeping, slack one pound of lime in a gallon of 
water ; when this is entirely cold, place it in a jar and fill 
with fresh eggs. Do not agitate the contents when eggs- 
are removed from the jar. Eggs kept so will continue good 
for a year. 

The French method of preserving eggs is to dissolve 
beeswax and olive oil and anoint the eggs all over. If left 
undisturbed in a cool place, they will remain good for two 
years. 

RECIPES. 

Boiled Eggs. — Put into a saucepan of boiling water with a 
tablespoon, being careful not to break or crack them. Boil 
steadily three minutes, if you want them soft ; ten, if hard. 

Another way is to put them on in cold water, and let it 
come to a boil. The inside, white and yelk, will be then of 
the consistency of custard. 

Still another way is to put them in water, heated to the 
boiling point, and let them stand from five to seven minutes 
without boiling. If desired for salad, boil them ten minutes; 



£GCS. 



119 



then throw them in cold water ; roll them gently on a table 
or board, and the shell can be easily removed. Wire egg 
racks, to set in boiling hot water with the eggs held in place, 
.are exceedingly convenient. 

Boiled Eggs, with Sauce. — Boil hard, remove the shell, set 
in a hot dish, and serve with seasoning and sauce to taste. 

Poached Eggs. — Have the water well salted, but do not let 
it boil hard. Break the eggs separately into a saucer, and 
slip them singly into the water ; when nicely done, remove 
with a skimmer, trim neatly, and lay each egg upon a small 
thin square of buttered toast, then sprinkle with salt and 
pepper. Some persons prefer them poached rather than 
fried with ham ; in which case substitute the ham for toast. 

Poached Eggs with Ham Sauce. — Mince fine two or three 
slices of boiled ham, a small onion, a little parsley, pepper, 
and salt ; stew together for a quarter of an hour ; put the 
poached eggs in a dish, squeeze over them the juice of a 
lemon, and pour on the sauce hot but not boiling. 

Poached Eggs a la Creme. — Nearly fill a clean frying-pan 
with water boiling hot ; strain a tablespoonful of vinegar 
through double muslin, and add to the water with a little 
salt. Slip your eggs from the saucer upon the top of the 
water (first taking the pan from the fire). Boil three min- 
utes and a half; drain, and lay on buttered toast in a hot 
dish. Turn the water from the pan and pour in half a cup- 
ful of cream or milk. If you use the latter, thicken with a 
very little corn-starch. Let it heat to a boil, stirring to pre- 
vent burning, and add a great spoonful of butter, some pep- 
per, and salt. Boil up once and pour over the eggs. Or 
better still, heat the milk in a separate saucepan, that the 
•eggs may not have to stand. A little broth improves the 
sauce. 



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Steamed Eggs. — Butter a tin plate and break in your eggs J 
set in a steamer ; place over a kettle of boiling water, ancf. 
steam until the whites are cooked ; they are more orna- 
mental when broken into patty tins, as they keep their form 
better ; the whites of the eggs, when cooked in this manner, 
are tender and light, and not tough and leathery, as if cooked 
by any other process. 

Eggs in this style can be eaten by invalids, and are very 
much richer than by any other method. 

Whirled Eggs. — Put a quart of water, slightly salted, into 
a saucepan over the fire, and keep it at a fast boil. Stir 
with wooden spoon or ladle in one direction until it whirls 
rapidly. Break six eggs, one at a time, into a cup and drop 
each carefully into'the centre, or vortex, of the boiling water. 
If kept at a rapid motion, the egg will become a soft, round 
ball. Take it out carefully with a perforated spoon, and put 
it on a slice of buttered toast laid upon a hot dish. Put a 
bit of butter on the top. Set the dish in the oven to keep 
warm, and proceed in the same way with another egg, hav- 
ing but one in the saucepan at a time. When all are done, 
dust lightly with salt and pepper and send up hot. 

Eggs a la Mode. — Remove the skin from a dozen tomatoes,, 
medium size, cut them up in a saucepan, add a little butter, 
pepper, and salt ; when sufficiently boiled, beat up five or 
six eggs, and just before you serve, turn them into a sauce- 
pan with the tomato, and stir one way for two minutes, allow- 
ing them time to be well done. 

Baked Eggs. — Mix finely chopped ham and bread-crumbs 
in about equal proportions, season with salt and pepper, and 
moisten with milk and a little melted butter ; half fill your 
small patty pans with the mixture, break an egg over the 
top of each, sprinkle with fine bread-crumbs, and bake; 
serve hot. 



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Baked Eggs, No. 2. — Butter a clean, smooth saucepan, break 
as many eggs as will be needed into a saucer, one by one, 
and if found good, slip each into the saucepan. No broken 
yelk must be allowed, nor must they crowd so as to risk 
breaking the yelk after put in. Put a small piece of butter 
on each, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Set into a well- 
heated oven, and bake till the whites are set. If the oven 
is rightly heated, it will take but a few minutes, and the 
cooking will be far more delicate than fried eggs. 

Eggs sur le Plat. — Melt butter on a stone-china or tin plate. 
Break the eggs carefully into this ; dust lightly with pepper 
and salt, and put on top of the stove until the whites are 
well set. Serve in the dish in which they are baked. 

Scrambled Eggs. — Put into a frying-pan enough butter to 
grease it well ; slip in the eggs carefully without breaking 
the yelks ; add butter, and season to taste ; when the whites 
begin to set, stir the eggs from the bottom of the pan, and 
continue stirring until the cooking is completed. The 
appearance at the end should be marbled, rather than mixed. 

Scrambled Eggs with Ham. — Put into a pan, butter, a little 
pepper and salt, and a little milk ; when hot, drop in the 
eggs, and with a knife cut the eggs and scrape them from 
the bottom as the whites begin to set ; add some cold ham 
chopped fine, and when done, serve in a hot dish. 

Toasted Eggs. — Cover the bottom of an earthenware or 
stone-china dish with rounds of delicately toasted bread, or 
with rounds of stale bread dipped in beaten egg and fried 
quickly to a golden-brown in butter or nice dripping. 
Break an egg carefully upon each, and set the dish imme- 
diately in front of a glowing fire. Toast over this as many 
slices of fat salt pork or ham as there are eggs in the dish, 
holding the meat so that it will fry very quickly and all the 
dripping fall upon the eggs. When these are well set, they 
are done. Turn the dish several times while toasting the 



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meat, that the eggs may be equally cooked. Do not send 
the pork to table, but pepper the eggs lightly and remove 
with the toast to the dish in which they go to the table. 

Egg Toast. — Beat four eggs, yelks and whites, together 
thoroughly ; put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a sauce- 
pan and melt slowly ; then pour in the eggs and heat, with- 
out boiling, over a slow fire, stirring constantly ; add a little 
salt, and when hot spread on slices of nicely browned toast 
and serve at once. 

Egg Baskets. — Boil quite hard as many eggs as will be 
needed. Put into cold water till cold, then cut neatly into 
halves with a thin, sharp knife ; remove the yelk and rub to 
a paste with some melted butter, adding pepper and salt. 
Cover up this paste and set aside till the filling is ready. 
Take cold roast duck, chicken, or turkey, which may be on 
hand, chop fine and pound smooth, and while pounding 
mix in the paste prepared from the yelks. As you pound, 
moisten with melted butter and some gravy which may 
have been left over from the fowls ; set this paste when done 
over hot water till well heated. Cut off a small slice from 
the end of the empty halves of the whites, so they will stand 
firm, then fill them with this paste; place them close to- 
gether on a flat, round dish, and pour over the rest of the 
gravy, if any remains, or make a little fresh. A few spoon- 
fuls of cream or rich milk improves this dressing. 

Fricasseed Eggs. — Boil six eggs hard ; when cold, slice 
with a sharp knife. Have ready some slices of stale bread, 
fried to a nice brown in butter or drippings. Put a cupful 
of good broth in drawn butter over the fire, season it with 
pepper, salt, and a trace of onion ; let it come to a boil. 
Dip the slices of egg first into raw egg, then into cracker 
dust or bread-crumbs, and lay them gently into the gravy 
upon the side of the range. Do not let it actually boil, lest 
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least fiVc minutes. Place the fried bread upon a platter, lay 
the sliced eggs evenly upon this, pour the gravy over all, 
and serve hot. 

Curried Eggs. — Boil six or eight fresh eggs quite hard, 
and put them aside until they are cold. Mix well together 
from two to three ounces of good butter, and from three to 
four dessertspoonfuls of currie-powder ; shake them in a 
stewpan, or thick saucepan, over a clear but moderate fire 
for some minutes, then throw in a couple of mild onions 
finely minced, and fry gently until they are soft ; pour in by 
degrees from half to three-quarters of a pint of broth or 
gravy, and stew slowly until they are reduced to pulp ; mix 
smoothly a small cup of thick cream with two teaspoonfuls 
of wheaten or rice flour ; stir them to the currie, and simmer 
the whole until the raw taste of the thickening is gone. 
Cut the eggs into half-inch slices, heat them through in the 
sauce without boiling them, and send to the table as hot as 
possible. 

Plain Omelet. — Beat thoroughly yelks of five eggs, and a 
dessertspoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in two-thirds of a 
cupful of milk. Salt and pepper to taste, and add a piece 
of butter the size of a hickory-nut. Beat the whites to a 
stiff froth, pour the mixture into the whites, and without 
stirring pour into a hot, buttered omelet pan. Cook on top 
of the range for five minutes ; then set pan and all into the 
even to brown the top nicely. 

Baked Omelet— Beat the yelks of six eggs, and add the 
whites of three eggs beaten very light ; salt and pepper to 
taste, and a tablespoonful of flour mixed in a cup of milk. 
Pour into a well-buttered pan and put into a hot oven ; 
when thick, pour over it the whites of three eggs beaten 
light; then brown nicely, without allowing the top to be- 
come crusted. Serve immediately. 






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Omelet a la Mods. — Beat the yelks and whites of six eggs 
separately until light, then beat together and add one table- 
spoonful of cream. Have in the omelet pan a piece ol 
butter ; when the butter is boiling hot, pour in the omelet 
and shake until it begins to stiffen, and then let it brown, and 
season to taste. Fold double and serve hot. 

If a larger omelet is desired, a tablespoonful of milk to 
each egg may be added, and one teaspoonful of corn-starch 
or flour to the whole. 

Cheese Omelet. — Butter the sides of a deep dish and cover 
with thin slices of rich cheese ; lay over the cheese thin 
slices of well-buttered bread, first covering the cheese with 
a little red pepper and mustard ; then another layer of cheese ; 
beat the yelk of an egg in a cup of cream or milk, and pour 
over the dish, and put at once into the oven ; bake till nicely 
browned. Serve hot, or it will be tough and hard, but when 
properly cooked it will be tender and savory. 

Meat or Pish Omelet. — Make the same as plain omelet. When 
it is done, scatter thickly over the surface cold, boiled ham, 
tongue, poultry, fish, or lobster, chopped fine, and season 
nicely to taste ; slip the broad knife under one side of the 
omelet and double, inclosing the meat. Then upset the 
frying-pan upon a hot dish, so transferring the omelet with- 
out breaking. Or the minced meat may be stirred in after 
the ingredients are put together, and before cooking. Be 
careful not to scorch the egg. 

Omelet with Oysters. — Allow one egg for each person, 
and beat yelks and whites separately, very light ; season 
to taste, and just before cooking add the oysters, which have 
been previously scalded in their own liquor. 

Egg Sandwiches. — Hard boil some fresh eggs, and, when 
cold, cut them into moderately thin slices, and lay them be- 
tween slices of bread and butter cut thin, and season well 



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with celery salt. For picnic parties or for traveling, these 
sandwiches are vet}' nice. 

Deviled Eggs. — Boil the eggs hard, remove the shell , and 
cut in two as preferred. Remove the yelks, and add to them 
salt, cayenne pepper, melted butter, and mixed mustard to 
taste ; then stuff the cavities of the hard whites, and put the 
halves together again. Serve garnished with parsley. For 
picnics, etc., each egg can be wrapped in tissue paper to 
preserve its form. 

Pickled Eggs. — Boil the eggs until very hard ; when cold, 
shell them, and cut them in halves lengthways. Lay them 
carefully in large-mouthed jars, and pour over them scalding 
vinegar, well seasoned with whole pepper, allspice, a few 
pieces of ginger, and a few cloves of garlic. When cold, tie 
up closely, and let them stand a month. They are then fit 
for use. With cold meat, they are a most delicious and 
delicate pickle. 

Egg Balls. — Rub the yelks of hard-boiled eggs with the 
raw yelk of an egg, well beaten, and season to taste. Poll 
this paste into balls the size of marbles, adding flour if neces- 
sary to thicken, and boil two minutes. A valuable embel- 
lishment and enrichment of soups. 



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X.— BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 

AN immense department is opened up by the title of this 
chapter ; and it is a department of immense im- 
portance. Bread is confessedly the " staff of life," 
and, therefore, it should be good. And whatever takes the 
place of bread, be it biscuits, hot cakes, muffins, or what 
not, should also be good, or nothing is gained by the 
exchange. Many a housekeeper can make excellent pies, 
cakes, etc., but when bread is needed, she flies to the bakery, 
confessing her total inability to prepare this indispensable 
commodity. 

But even bread may become distasteful as a steady diet 
To vary it with the long line of splendid substitutes which 
are possible, and which are discussed in this chapter, is a 
most desirable ability. This department, therefore, is worthy 
of every housewife's devout study. 



I.- BREAD. 



ESSENTIALS TO MAKING GOOD BREAD ; HOW TO KNOW GOOD FLOUR J 
YEAST J RAISING BREAD ; BAKING BREAD. TWELVE RECIPES FOR 
BREAD. 

THREE things are essential to the making of good bread, 
namely, good flour, good yeast, and judicious baking. 
A fourth might be added, experience, without which 
none of the domestic arts can be successfully carried on. 

In selecting flour, first look to the color. If it is white, 
with a yellowish straw-color tint, buy it. If it is white, with 
a bluish cast, or with black specks in it, refuse it. Next, 
examine its adhesiveness ; wet and knead a little of it be- 

10P 



BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 



127 



tween your fingers ; if it works soft and sticky, it is poor. 
Then throw a little lump of dried flour against a smooth 
surface ; if it falls like powder, it is bad. Lastly, squeeze 
some of the flour tightly in your hand ; if it retains the 
shape given by the pressure, that too is a good sign. It is 
safe to buy flour that will stand all these tests. 

Good yeast may easily be obtained in cities, in the forn. 
of fresh yeast cakes or at the baker shops. Where access 
cannot be had to these aids, home-made yeast must be 
depended on, which see under " Yeast," at the end of this 
chapter. After the yeast is properly added, the dough must 
stand several hours in an even temperature of moderate 
warmth, so that the process of " rising " may go on. This 
is simply a fermenting, or leavening, or lightening of the 
dough. If this process, by too much heat or other causes, 
goes too fast or too far, sour bread is the result ; if it goes 
too slow, or not far enough, heavy bread is the result. It 
must go just far enough, and just at the right moment the 
process must be arrested by baking. The walls of dough 
which inclose the innumerable vesicles of gas formed in the 
fermenting are thus made firm around those open spaces, 
and what we know as " light bread" is secured. 

The baking is the final test in the case. The oven must 
be just right at the outset, and must be kept so as the 
operation proceeds. Experience must decide the exact heat 
required, but an oven in which the bared arm may be held 
for about half a minute is regarded as approximately 
correct. 

Hot bread, or hot cake, should always be cut with a hot 
knife. If so cut, it will not become clammy. 

RECIPES. 

Wheat Bread. — Put seven pounds of flour into a breadpan ; 
hollow out the centre, and add a quart of lukewarm water, 
a teaspoonful of salt, and a wineglassful of yeast. Have 



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ready more warm water, and add gradually as much as will 
make a smooth, soft dough. Knead it well, dust a little 
flour over it, cover it with a cloth, and set it in a warm place 
four hours ; then knead it again for fifteen minutes and let 
it rise again. Divide it into loaves, and prick them with a 
fork, and bake in a quick oven from forty minutes to an 
hour. 

Potato Bread. — Three and one-half quarts of sifted flour, 
three boiled potatoes, one quart warm water, one teacupful 
of yeast, one even tablespoonful salt. Mix at night ; put 
the flour in a large bowl ; hollow a place in the centre for 
the mashed potatoes, water, and salt. Stir in flour enough 
to make a smooth batter ; add yeast ; stir in the rest of the 
flour. Put the dough on the floured board ; knead fifteen 
minutes, using barely enough flour to prevent sticking. 
Flour the bowl, lay the dough in it, cover and leave it to 
rise. In the morning, divide in four parts ; mold into loaves; 
when light, prick, and bake in a moderate oven. 

Salt Rising Bread. — Pour a pint of hot water in a two-quart 
pail or pitcher on one-half tablespoonful of salt ; when it 
has cooled a little, add one and one-third pints of flour ; 
mix well, and leave the pitcher in a kettle of water, as warm 
as that used for mixing. Keep it at the same temperature 
until the batter is nearly twice its original bulk, which will 
be in from five to eight hours. It may be stirred once or 
twice during the rising. Add to this a sponge made of one 
quart of hot water, two and one-half quarts of flour — adding 
as much more as may be necessary to make a soft dough ; 
mix well, and leave in a warm place to rise. When light, 
mold into loaves, keeping them as soft as possible ; lay in 
buttered tins. When light again, prick and bake. 

Milk Bread. — Let two quarts of milk come to a boil ; stand 
it aside to cool, and when it becomes tepid, add flour to it 
gradually until it makes a batter just soft enough to beat up 



BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 



12U 



with a spoon. To this add one cake of compressed yeast 
thoroughly dissolved in lukewarm water. The batter should 
then be well beaten. Cover v/ith a towel and set in a warm 
place to rise. When light, add two tablespoonfuls of salt, 
one of lard, one of light brown sugar, and flour enough to 
make a soft dough. Knead steadily for about half an hour. 
This quantity should make four or five medium-sized loaves. 
Put them in greased pans and let them rise again. When 
light, prick with a fork and bake in a quick oven. 

Vienna Bread. — The Vienna bread that became so famous 
on the Centennial Exhibition grounds in 1876 was made on 
the following recipe : Sift in a tin pan four pounds of flour ; 
bank up against the sides ; pour in one quart of milk and 
v.ater, and mix into it enough flour to form a thin batter, 
and then quickly and lightly add one pint of milk, in which 
is dissolved one ounce of salt and one and three-quarter 
ounces of yeast ; leave the remainder of the flour against 
the sides of the pan ; cover the pan with a cloth, and set in 
a place free from draught for three quarters of an hour ; 
then mix in the rest of the flour until the dough will leave 
the bottom and sides of the pan, and let it stand two and a 
half hours ; finally, divide the mass into one-pound pieces, 
to be cut in turn into twelve parts each ; this gives square 
pieces about three and a half inches thick, each corner of 
which is taken up and folded over to the centre, and then 
the cases are turned over on a dough-board to rise for half 
an hour, when they are put in a hot oven that will bake 
them in ten minutes. 

Rye Bread. — Scald two handfuls of corn-meal with a quart 
of boiling water, and add a quart of milk and a tablespoonful 
of salt. When cool, add a teacupful of yeast, and enough 
rye flour to make it as stiff as wheat-bread dough. After 
it has risen put it in pans and bake an hour and a half. 

Brown Bread. — Take onQ cup ot bread-crumbs, one pint ol 
9 



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sweet milk, one cup of molasses, butter the size of an egg, 
one teaspoonful of soda, corn-meal enough to make a stiff 
batter, with salt to taste. Turn the whole into a buttered 
basin and steam for two hours ; then bake in a quick oven 
half an hour. 

Boston Brown Bread. — Take three and three-fourth cupfuls 
of Indian corn-meal, two and one-half cupfuls rye-meal, two- 
thirds cupful molasses, one quart milk, either sweet or sour; 
two even teaspoonfuls soda, dissolved in the milk ; steam in 
a tin pudding boiler five hours ; take off the cover and set 
in the oven to brown. 

Corn Bread. — Two heaping cupfuls Indian meal, one cup- 
ful wheat flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls Durkee's baking- 
powder; mix well together while dry; one teaspoonful salt, 
two tablespoonfuls white sugar, two eggs, one tablespoonful 
lard, two and a half cupfuls cold milk ; beat the eggs, melt the 
lard, and dissolve the salt and sugar in the milk before add- 
ing them to the flour ; bake in buttered pans in a quick oven. 

Graham Bread. — Three quarts of Graham flour ; one quart 
of warm water ; one gill of yeast ; one gill of sirup ; 
one tablespoonful of salt ; one even teaspoonful of soda. 
Mix thoroughly and put in well-buttered pans to rise. Bake 
about an hour and a half. 

This same mixture may be thinned and baked in gem 
pans for Graham gems. 

Rice Bread. — After a pint of rice has been boiled soft, mix 
it with two quarts of rice flour or wheat flour. When cold, 
add half a teaspoonful of yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
enough milk to make a soft dough. When it has risen, 
bake in small buttered pans. 

Unleavened Bread. — Mix wheat flour into a stiff dough 
with warm water or milk ; add a little lard, or suet, and bake 
in thin cakes. Bake as soon as mixed, and eat hot. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. \%\ 

II.— TOAST. 

WHAT TOAST IS GOOD FOR. SIX METHODS OF PREPARING TOAST. 

AS a palatable method of disposing of stale bread, as well 
as to furnish a variety of agreeable dishes, toast is an 
important factor in the culinary economy of the home. 
As a dish for invalids it is indispensible. 

RECIPES. 

Dry Toast is produced by browning stale baker's bread 
over glowing coals. A toasting fork, or rack, of which 
there are various patterns, is a great convenience. Do not 
burn the toast, nor allow it to be so browned as to harden it. 
It should be eaten hot, as it becomes tough when allowed 
to cool. 

Buttered Toast. — For buttered toast, the slices should be 
thicker than for dry toast. Butter the slices as toasted, and 
keep warm until served. Excessive buttering should be 
avoided. 

Egg Toast. — On slices of buttered toast lay poached eggs. 
Serve with Worcestershire sauce for breakfast. 

French Toast. — Beat three eggs light, add one cupful of 
milk, with pepper and salt to taste. Dip into this slices of 
bread, then fry them in hot butter to a delicate brown. 

Milk Toast. — Toast the bread an even, delicate brown, and 
pile into a hot dish. Boil milk with a little salt, a teaspoon- 
ful of flour, and one of butter, rubbed together; pour it over 
the toast and serve hot. 

Cream Toast. — Take slices of baker's bread from which 
the crust has been pared and toast it to a golden brown. 
Have on the range a shallow bowl or pudding-dish, more 
than half full of boiling water, in which a tablespoonful of 
butter has been melted. As each slice is toasted, dip in this 



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for a second, sprinkle lightly with salt, and lay in the deef* 
heated dish in which it is to be served. Have readv, by the 
time all the bread is toasted, a quart of milk scalding hot, 
but not boiling. Thicken this with two tablespoonfuls of 
corn-starch or best flour ; let it simmer until cooked ; put 
in two tablespoonfuls of butter, and when this is melted, the 
beaten whites of three eggs. Boil up once, and pour over 
the toast, lifting the lower slices one by one, that the creamy 
mixture may run in between them. Cover closely, and 
set in the oven two or three minutes before serving. 



III.— FANCY BREADS. 




FANCY BREADS AND PLAIN CAKES ; THEIR GENERAL USEFULNESS. 
EIGHT RECIPES FOR FANCY BREADS. 

SOME special preparations come naturally between bread 
and cake. For convenient classification, they are 
grouped here under the title of Fancy Breads, though 
they might as well be classed as Plain Cakes. They serve 
a good purpose for variety, for luncheon, etc. See plainer 
forms of cakes. 

RECIPES. 

Sally Lunn. — One quart of flour, a piece of butter the size 
of an egg, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, two tea- 
cupfuls of milk, two teaspoonfuls of cream tartar, one of 
soda, and a little salt. Scatter the cream of tartar, the sugar, 
and the salt into the flour ; add the eggs, the butter (melted), 
and one cup of milk ; dissolve the soda in the remaining cup, 
and stir all together steadily a few moments. Bake in two 
round pans. 

Sally Lunn, No. 2. — Rub into a quart of flour two teaspoon- 
fuls of baking-powder ; beat together nearly half a cup oi 



BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 



133 



cutter and two tablespoonfuls of sugar ; put into the flour 
and mix with a pint of milk ; then add two eggs, beaten 
light. Mix and bake as above. 

Johnny Cake. — One quart of buttermilk or sour milk, one 
quart Indian meal, one quart of flour, one cup of molasses, 
a teaspoonful of soda, two scant teaspoonfuls if the milk is 
sour, a teaspoonful of salt. Bake in shallow pans in a quick 
oven. 

Hoe Cake. — Scald one quart of Indian-meal in enough watei 
to make a thick batter ; add a teaspoonful of salt, one of 
molasses, and two of butter. Bake on a board before a hot 
fire or in a pan. 

Scotch Short-cake. — Two pounds of fine flour, one pound 
of fresh, sweet butter, half a pound of finest sifted sugar, 
throughly knead together without water ; roll out to 
half an inch in thickness, and place it on paper in a shallow 
pan ; bake very slowly until of proper crispness. The cake, 
to be good, must be very brittle. - 

Pumpkin Bread. — Stew and strain a sufficient quantity of 
pumpkin ; add enough Indian-meal to stiffen it, with yeast 
and a little salt; when sufficiently raised, bake as in ordi- 
nary bread. 

Pone. — This is a dish prepared by the Indians, called also 
paune. Take two cupfuls of corn-meal, two of wheat flour, 
one of sugar, and half a cup of melted butter. Add one 
egg, one teaspoonful of salt, one of soda, and two of cream 
of tartar. Mix with enough milk to make a moderately 
stiff batter, and bake in a hot oven. 

Barley Bread. — In Scotland, Norway, and other climates 
where wheat is not grown, barley bread is used extensively. 
It is both wholesome and palatable. Mix the barley meal 
with warm water and a little salt, but no yeast. Mix to a 
stiff dough, roll into flat cakes, and bake before the fire or 
in an oven. Eat hot, with butter. 



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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
IV.— ROLLS. 



A FAVORITE BREAKFAST DISH. SEVEN VARIETIES OF ROLLS. 

A FAVORITE departure from the ordinary forms ot 
bread is furnished in rolls. They are exceedingly pop 
ular for breakfast, served warm. There are sufficient 
variations in rolls to make them suitable for use day after 
day, if this be desired. 

RECIPES. 

Plaja Rolls.— Boil six potatoes in two quarts of water, and 
when done pour and press the whole through the colander • 
when cool, but not cold, add flour to make a thick batter ; 
add half a cup of yeast, or one-half cake of compressed yeast, 
and set to rise ; when light, add half a cup of lard and but- 
ter mixed, a tablespoonful of sugar, teaspoonful of salt, and 
flour to make a soft dough ; knead well and set again to 
rise ; when light, knead down again ; repeat three or four 
time* ; an hour before they are to be used cut in small 
pieces, roll out, spread with melted butter, and fold over, 
laying them in a pan so that they will not touch each other ; 
set them in a warm place, and when light bake quickly. Or, 
make into an oblong roll without spreading and rolling, and 
just before putting them into the oven, gash deeply across 
the top with a sharp knife. 

English Rolls.— Two pounds of flour, two ounces of butter, 
three tablespoonfuls of yeast, one pint of warm milk ; mix 
well together, and set in a warm place to rise ; knead, and 
make into rolls ; let them rise again and bake twenty min- 
utes. 

Breakfast Rolls.— One quart of sifted flour, three teaspoon- 
fuls baking-powder, half teaspoonful salt; mix well together 
dry, then add three and half gills of cold milk, or enough 
to make it the consistency of batter, and drop with a spoon 



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135 



into gem baking-pans, which should have been previously 
heated very hot and buttered. 

French Rolls, — One pint of milk, scalded ; put into it while 
hot half a cupful of sugar, and one tablespoonful of butter ; 
when the milk is cool, add a little salt and half a cupful of 
yeast, or one cake of compressed yeast ; stir in flour enough 
to make a stiff sponge, and when light mix as for bread. 
Let it rise until light, punch it down with the hand, and let 
it rise again, and repeat this process two or three times ; 
then turn the dough on to the molding board, and pound 
with rolling-pin until thin enough to cut. Cut out with a 
tumbler, brush the surface of each one with melted butter, 
and fold over. Let the rolls rise on the tins ; bake, and 
while warm brush over the surface with melted butter to 
make the crust tender. 

Vienna Rolls. — One quart sifted flour, two heaping tea- 
spoonfuls of a good baking-powder ; mix well while dry ; then 
add a tablespoonful of butter or lard, made a little soft by 
warming and stirring, and about three-fourths of a pint, or 
enough cold, sweet milk for a dough of usual stiffness, with 
about half a teaspoonful of salt dissolved in it. Mix into a 
dough easily to be handled without sticking ; turn on the 
board and roll out to the thickness of half an inch, cut it 
out with a large cake-cutter, spread very lightly with butter, 
fold one-half over the other, and lay them in a greased pan 
without touching. Wash them over with a little milk, and 
bake in a hot oven. 

Parker House Rolls. — One teacupful of yeast, or one cake 
of compressed yeast, a little salt, one tablespoonful sugar, 
piece of lard size of an egg, one pint milk, flour sufficient to 
mix. Put the milk on the stove to scald with the lard in it. 
Prepare the flour with salt, sugar, and yeast. Then add the 
milk, not too hot. Knead thoroughly, and when mixed set 
to rise ; when light, knead again slightly. Then roll out 



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and cut with large biscuit-cutter. Spread a little butter on 
each roll and lap together. Let them rise again very light, 
and bake in a quick oven. 

Geneva Rolls. — Into two pounds of flour break three 
ounces of butter, add a little salt, and make into a sponge 
with yeast, previously mixed with milk and water. Allow 
the batter to rise ; then mix in two eggs, made lukewarm 
by the adding of hot milk, and work the sponge to a light 
dough. Let it stand for three-quarters of an hour longer; 
mold into small rolls ; place them in buttered pans. When 
light, brush them with beaten yelks of eggs, and bake for 
twenty minutes or half an hour. Serve hot. 




Tif 



V.— BISCUIT, RUSK, AND BUNS. 

SPECIAL CARE REQUISITE IN THIS DEPARTMENT ; ATTENTION TO 
INGREDIENTS, OVEN, ETC. ; HOW TO BAKE THEM; BAKING-POW- 
DER BISCUITS, SODA BISCUITS, ETC. ; CARE OF PANS. FIFTEEN 
RECIPES FOR BISCUITS, BUNS, ETC. 

GREAT care is requisite in making biscuits that quantities 
be accurately observed and that the ingredients used 
are of proper quality. Flour should be a few months 
old. New flour will not make good biscuits. It should 
always be sifted. 

The oven, too, needs careful attention. On its condition 
the success of biscuit baking will depend. Rolls and bis- 
cuit should bake quickly. To make them a nice color> rub 
them over with warm water just before putting them into 
the oven ; to glaze them, brush lightly with milk and sugar. 
Baking-powder biscuit and soda biscuit should be made 
as rapidly as possible, laid into hot pans, and put in a 
quick oven. Gem pans should always be heated and well. 
greased. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 
PRECIPES. 



137 



Potato Biscuit. — Pare ten potatoes, boil them thoroughly, 
and mash fine ; add two cups of lukewarm milk, two table- 
spoonfuls of white sugar, half a cup of yeast, and flour 
enough to make a thin batter. Mix well and allow it to 
rise. Then add four tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a little 
salt, and enough flour to make a soft dough. Let this rise 
again ; roll into a sheet about an inch thick, and cut into 
cakes. Set to rise again, and bake in a quick oven. 

Light Biscuit. — When kneading bread, set aside a small 
loaf for biscuits. Into this, work a heaping tablespoonful of 
lajxl and butter mixed and a teaspoonful of sugar. The 
//more it is worked the whiter it will be. As it rises, 
' mold it down twice before making into biscuit. Roll out 
and cut with a biscuit-cutter. The dough should be quite 
soft. 

Soda Biscuits. — One quart of flour, a tablespoonful of but- 
ter and two of lard, a teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoon 
even full of cream of tartar, one teaspoonful of soda ; sift 
the cream tartar with the flour dry ; rub the butter and lard 
very thoroughly through it ; dissolve the soda in a pint of 
milk and mix all together. Roll out, adding as little flour 
as possible ; cut with a biscuit-cutter, and bake twenty 
minutes in a quick oven. 

Tea Biscuit. — Take one quart sifted flour, one tablespoon- 
ful shortening, half teaspoonful salt, and two teaspoonfuls 
Durkee's baking-powder ; mix well together dry, then add 
sufficient cold milk or water to form a very soft dough ; 
bake immediately in a quick oven. 

Cream Biscuits. — Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a 
quart of sour cream, add to it flour sufficient to make a soft 
dough and a little salt ; or use sour milk, and rub a table- 
spoonful of butter into the flour. 



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Graham Biscuits. — Take one quart of water or milk, buttei 
the size of an egg, three tablespoonfuls sugar, two of baker's 
yeast, and a pinch of salt ; take enough white flour to use 
up the water, making it the consistency of batter cakes; 
add the rest of the ingredients and as much Graham flour 
as can be stirred in with a spoon ; set it away till morning ; 
in the morning grease the pan, flour your hands ; take a 
lump of dough the size of a large egg, roll it lightly be- 
tween the palms, and let the biscuits rise twenty minutes, 
then bake in a tolerably hot oven. 

Maryland Biscuits. — Take three pints of sifted flour, one 
tablespoonful of good lard, one pint of cold water, salt to 
the taste; make into a stiff dough ; work it till it cracks or 
blisters, then break, but do not cut it, into suitable portions, 
and make into biscuits ; stick the top of each with a fork 
and bake. 

Yorkshire Biscuits. — Make a batter with flour sufficient and 
one quart of boiling hot milk. When the batter has cooled 
to lukewarmness, add a teacupful of yeast and a half tea- 
spoonful of salt. Set to rise again and let it become very 
light ; then stir in a half teaspoonful of soda, two eggs, and 
a tablespoonful of melted butter. Add flour enough to 
make the dough into small, round cakes ; let them rise fifteen 
minutes, and bake in a slow oven. 

Short Biscuits. — Mix one quart of flour with a quarter 
pound of butter melted in boiling water. Add enough cold 
milk to make a stiff dough. Work into small biscuits and 
bake in a quick oven. 

Flavored Biscuits. — Biscuit dough made as for Light Bfe- 
cuit may be flavored with any essence, or with lemon ot 
orange peel, as desired. 

Tea Rusk. — Three cups of flour, one cup of milk, three- 



BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 



139 



fourths of a cup of sugar, two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
butter, melted ; two eggs, three teaspoonfuls baking-powder. 
Let them rise, and bake in a moderate oven. Glaze while 
hot with white of egg, in which has been stirred, not beaten, 
a little powdered sugar, or sift the powdered sugar in while 
the egg is still moist on the top. Rusks should never be 
eaten hot. 

Sweet Rusk. — One pint of warm milk — new is best — one- 
half cup of butter, one cup of sugar, two eggs, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of yeast ; make a sponge 
with the milk, yeast, and enough flour to make a thin bat- 
ter, and let it rise over night. In the morning add the 
sugar, butter, eggs, and salt, well beaten up together, with 
enough flour to make a soft dough ; let it rise again ; then 
work out into round balls, and set to rise a third time. Bake 
in a moderate oven. 

Buns. — One cupful of warm water, one cupful of sweet milk, 
yeast and sugar, with flour enough to make a stiff batter ; 
let this rise over night ; in the morning add a cupful of 
sugar, a cupful of raisins or currants, mold well ; let it rise till 
light, then make into buns ; rise again till very light, and 
bake. Use any spice desired. 

Hot Cross Buns. — Three cupfuls sweet milk ; one cupful of 
yeast ; flour to make thick batter. Set this as a sponge over 
night. In the morning add one cupful of sugar; one-half 
cupful butter, melted ; half a nutmeg ; one saltspoonful salt, 
and flour enough to roll out like biscuit. Knead well, and 
set to rise five hours. Roll half an inch thick, cut into 
round cakes, and lay in rows in a buttered baking-pan. 
When they have stood half an hour, make a cross upon 
each with a knife, and put instantly into the oven. Bake to 
a light brown, and brush over with a feather or soft bit of 
rag. dipped in the white of an egg beaten up stiff with white 
suaar. 



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Pop Overs. — Mix four cupfuls of flour, four cupfuls o) 
milk, four eggs, and a little salt. This quantity will make 
about twenty puffs in gem-pans, which must be baked quick 
and done to a nice brown. 



VI.— MUFFINS AND WAFFLES. 

HOW MUFFINS AND WAFFLES DIFFER; THEIR RELATION TO OTHER 
KINDRED PREPARATIONS ', MUFFIN-RINGS AND WAFFLE-IRONS ; 
WHEN TO USE MUFFINS AND WAFFLES; HOW TO SERVE THEM. 
ELEVEN RECIPES FOR MUFFINS AND WAFFLES. 

MUFFINS are baked in rings on a griddle, or in gem- 
pans, over a quick fire. Waffles are baked in waffle- 
irons, which inclose the batter and imprint both sides 
of the cake as it rises in the process of baking. Both muf- 
fins and waffles form a medium between bread and biscuits 
on the one side and griddle-cakes on the other. Muffin- 
rings were formerly about four inches in diameter, but now, 
with better taste, they are used much smaller. The approved 
waffle-irons of to-day are circular, baking four waffles at 
once, and suspended on a pivot that permits them to be 
turned with a touch of the fork. Both muffins and waffles 
are suitable for tea, and with stewed chicken and such deli- 
cacies they are really delicious. They should always be 
served hot and with the bes-t of butter. Waffles and catfish 
are a famous dish at some eating-houses. 

RECIPES. 

Muffins. — Two eggs lightly beaten, one quart of flour, one 
teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of Durkee's baking- 
powder, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one pint of 
milk, and two teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract, if liked. 
Beat up quickly to the consistency of a cake batter; bake in 
buttered gem-pans in a hot oven. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, HOT CAKES, ETC. 



141 



Muffins, No. 2. — One cup of home-made yeast or half of a 
compressed yeast cake, one pint of sweet milk, two eggs, 
two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar. Beat the butter, sugar, and eggs well together ; then 
stir in the milk, slightly warmed, and thicken with flour to 
the consistency of griddle-cakes. When light, bake in muffin- 
rings or on a griddle. If wanted for tea, the batter should 
be mixed immediately after breakfast. Muffins should never 
be cut with a knife, but be pulled open with the fingers. 

Rice Muffins. — Take one quart of sour milk, three well- 
beaten eggs, a little salt, a teaspoonful of soda, and enough 
of rice flour to thicken to a stiff batter. Bake in rings. 

Hominy Muffins. — Substitute hominy, well cooked and 
mashed, for the rice, and proceed as above. 

Bread Muffins. — Cut the crust off four thick slices of bread ; 
put them in a pan and pour on them just enough boiling 
water to soak them thoroughly. Let them stand an hour, 
covered ; then drain off the water and stir the bread to a 
smooth paste. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, a half 
pint of milk, and three well-beaten eggs. Bake to a delicate 
brown in well-buttered muffin-rings. 

Graham Muffins. — One quart of Graham flour, two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder, a piece of butter the size of a 
walnut, one egg, one tablespoonful of sugar, one-half tea- 
spoonful of salt, milk enough to make a batter as thick as 
for griddle-cakes. Bake in gem-pans or muffin-rings in a 
hot oven. 

Corn Muffins. — Mix two cupfuls of corn-meal, two cupfulo 
of flour, one cupful of sugar, half a cupful of melted butter, 
two eggs, and one teaspoonful of salt. Dissolve one tea- 
spoonful of soda and two of cream tartar in a little milk, and 
beat it through. Add milk enough to make a moderately 
stiff batter, and bake in rings or gem-pans. 



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Crumpets. — Three cupfuls of warm milk, half a cupful of 
yeast, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one saltspoonful 
each of salt and soda dissolved in hot water, flour enough 
to make a good batter. Set these ingredients — leaving out 
the butter and soda — as a sponge. When very light, beat 
in the melted butter, with a very little flour ; stir in the soda 
hard, fill patty-pans or muffin-rings with the mixture, and 
let them stand fifteen minutes before baking. 

Raised Waffles. — One quart of warm milk, one tablespoon- 
ful of butter, three eggs, one gill of yeast, one tablespoon- 
ful of salt, and flour to make a stiff batter. Set to rise, and 
bake in waffle-irons, which must be well heated before used- 

Quick Waffles. — One quart flour, two teaspoonfuls Durkee's 
baking-powder, one teaspoonful salt ; mix dry ; then stir in 
one tablespoonful melted butter, two well-beaten eggs, and 
enough cold, sweet milk for a batter thin enough to pour ; 
bake at once in waffle-irons. 

Rice Waffles. — Mix a teacupful and a half of boiling rice 
with a pint of milk, rubbing it smooth over the fire. Take 
from the fire and add a pint of cold milk and a teaspoonful 
of salt. Stir in four well-beaten eggs with enough flour to 
make a thin batter, and bake as above. Waffles should 
always be served hot. Powdered sugar with a flavor of 
powdered cinnamon makes a pleasing dressing for them. 



VII.— GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

WHAT GRIDDLE-CAKES ARE; HINTS ABOUT GRIDDLES ; HOW TO COOK 
GRIDDLE-CAKES \ HOW TO SERVE THEM ; WHEN TO SERVE THEM; 
WITH WHAT TO SERVE THEM. TEN RECIPES FOR GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

CAKES made of a batter so thin that it flows easily upon 
a griddle, and that can, therefore, be quickly baked 
and be served hot, are griddle-cakes, and great favorites 
they are. 



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143 



All new griddles are hard to manage, but as the only way 
to get old ones is to make them out of new ones, we are 
shut up to the necessity of using the new, though they do 
not work so well Opinions divide between iron griddles 
and those of soapstone. The latter require no greasing. 
Hence trouble is saved, and the smoke of the fat used in 
the constant greasing of a hot iron griddle is entirely 
avoided. But still, many housekeepers prefer the old style. 

A hot griddle is essential to good griddle-cakes. But it 
must not be hot enough to burn before it bakes. A cold 
griddle will make cakes tough, unpalatable, and decidedly 
unwholesome. 

Hot cakes may be served with powdered sugar, molasses, 
maple sirup, or any other of the many excellent sirups in 
the market. Cold days are the gala days for hot cakes. 
Time immemorial, buckwheat cakes and sausage have gone 
to the table side by side. There is delightful harmony in 
this union ; but to serve hot cakes and fish together would 
introduce discord into the best regulated family. There is 
an eminent fitness between hot cakes and certain other 
dishes, and it must never be disregarded. 

RECIPES. 

Buckwheat Cakes.— One quart of buckwheat-meal, one 
pint of wheat-flour or Indian-meal, half a teacupful of yeast, 
salt to taste ; mix the flour, buckwheat, and salt with as 
much water moderately warm as will make it into a thin 
batter; beat it well, then add the yeast ; when well mixed, 
set it in a warm place to rise ; as soon as it is very light, 
grease the griddle and bake the cakes to a delicate brown. 
Butter them with good butter and serve hot. 

Graham Griddle-cakes.— Scald a cupful of Indian-meal in a 
pint of boiling water, and strain it over night. Thin it with 
a quart of milk, and make into a sponge with a cupful of 



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Graham flour, a large tablespoonful of molasses, and half a 
cupful of yeast. In the morning, add salt to taste, a cuptu. 
of white flour, half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in hot 
water, and a tablespoonful of butter or lard. Stir in enough 
water to make batter of the right consistency, and bake on 
a hot griddle. 

Flannel Cakes. — Three eggs, one quart of sweet milk, about 
one quart of flour, a small teaspoonful of salt, two table- 
spoonfuls of prepared baking-powder ; beat the yelks, and 
half of the milk, salt, and flour together ; then the remainder 
of the milk ; and last, the whites of the eggs well beaten. 
Bake in small cakes on a hot griddle. 

Flannel Cakes, No. 2. — One quart of milk, three eggs, one 
cupful of yeast, one dessertspoonful of salt, flour enough for 
a thinnish batter, and a teaspoonful of butter ; set to rise ; 
bake like buckwheat cakes. Cakes half Indian and half 
wheat are very nice, and good cakes may be made even 
without the eggs. 

Rice Cakes. — Soak a cupful of rice five or six hours in 
enough warm water to cover it. Then boil slowly till soft. 
While still warm, but not hot, stir in a tablespoonful of but- 
ter, a tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
quart of milk. When cold, add three eggs, beaten very 
light. Sift a half teaspoonful of cream of tartar into a 
quarter cupful of rice flour, and add them to the batter, first 
beating into it a quarter teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot 
water. 

Rice Cakes, No. 2. — Boil a cupful of rice until quite soft, 
setting it aside until cool. Beat three eggs very light, and 
put them into the rice, with a pint of flour, into which you 
have sifted three teaspoonfuls of prepared baking-powder. 
Add a teaspoonful of butter and one of salt, making it into 
a batter with a quart of milk. Bake on a griddle. 



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141 



Hominy Cakes.— Mix with cold boiled hominy an equal 
quantity of white flour until perfectly smooth ; add a tea- 
spoonful of salt and thin off with buttermilk, in part of 
which a teaspoonfui of soda has been dissolved ; when of 
the proper consistency for griddle cakes, add a dessertspoon- 
nil of melted butter, and bake as usual. 

Sour Milk Cakes.— One pint sour milk, one teaspoonfui of 
soda, a little salt, two eggs, and flour to make a thin batter ; 
bake on a hot griddle. 

Indian Griddle Cakes.— One large cupful Indian-meal, four 
tablespoonfuls of wheat flour, two tablespoonfuls of Durkee's 
baking-powder, one teaspoonfui salt, mix together dry, then 
add sufficient cold water for a batter ; bake at once on a hot 
griddle. 

Slapjacks.— One pint of milk, three eggs, one teaspoonfui 
of soda, and one of salt, flour enough to make a thin bat- 
ter. Butter your griddle, and fry them the size of a tea^ 
plate ; when one is done, turn it on the dish, sprinkle with a 
little white sugar, and continue in this way till they are all 
fried. Always fry them with butter. A little nutmeg may 
be grated with the sugar on each cake. 



VIII.— YEAST AND YEAST CAKES. 

NATURE OF YEAST ; ACTION OF YEAST IN DOUGH J CAUSES OF LIGHT 
BREAD AND HEAVY BREAD ; CARE OF YEAST. SIX RECIPES FOR 
YEAST AND YEAST CAKES. 

IN this chapter, yeast has been so otten referred to that its 
special consideration seems important just here. An- 
alytically considered, it consists of an innumerable 
quantity of infinitesimal fungi, called the yeast-plant. The 
remarkable characteristic of these minute plants is, that 
under favoring coriditions they multiply to an incredible 



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extent in a very short time. Thus the production of yeasi, 
in proper mixtures, is an easy matter. 

When yeast is placed in dough, it immediately produces 
fermentation, in the process of which gases are generated, 
which permeate the dough, filling it with gas-vessels and so 
producing the spongy appearance so familiar in raised 
bread. If this process goes too far, it sours the dough and 
unfits it for food. If arrested by placing the dough in a 
hot oven, the gases will be driven off by the heat, and the 
thin dough walls will be set and baked. If the oven be 
slow, the gases will be driven off, the dough walls will col- 
lapse, and heavy bread will be the result. The proper use 
of yeast is most important, therefore. It must be watched 
as carefully as any other tender plant. Excessive heat or 
cold, or rough mechanical usage will quickly destroy it. 



"CI 




RECIPES. 

Brewer's Yeast. — This yeast is produced during the process 
of fermenting malt liquors. It is the most effective yeast 
in use, being about eight times the strength of any other 
kind. 

Hop Yeast. — Boil four pounds of pared potatoes in three 
quarts of water and stir through a colander. Boil a hand- 
ful of hops in one quart of water for ten minutes, and strain 
this upon the potatoes. Add a half pint of salt, a half pint of 
sugar, and a tablespoonful of ginger. The quantity should 
now measure five quarts. If it be less, add enough tepid 
water to make the quantity correct. When lukewarm, add 
a half pint of home-brewed yeast, mix thoroughly, and 
stand in a warm place till bubbles form on the surface, which 
indicate that it has become light. Cover the vessel contain- 
ing the yeast, and allow it to stand in a diy, cool place. It 
will keep well for months. A gill of this yeast will suffice 
for an ordinary baking, requiring a quart of water or milk. 



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147 



Patent Yeast. — Boil two ounces of hops in four quarts of 
water for a half hour. Strain and cool till lukewarm, then 
add a handful of salt, a half pound of sugar, and a pound 
of flour, all mixed well and beaten up together. After it 
has stood forty-eight hours, add three pounds of potatoes, 
boiled and well-mashed. Let it stand twenty-four hours, 
stirring it often ; then strain and bottle. It is ready for im- 
mediate use, or will keep several months. Keep in a cool 
place. 

Potato Yeast. — Pare and boil six potatoes ; mash them 
through a colander and mix with them six tablespoonfuls of 
flour. Pour on a quart of boiling water from that in which 
the potatoes were boiled. Add half a teacupful of sugar, a 
tablespoonful of salt, and when cool, a teacupful of home- 
made yeast, or one-fourth the quantity of brewer's yeast. 

Yeast Cakes. — Thicken good yeast with Indian-meal till it 
becomes a stiff batter. A little rye will make it adhere bet- 
ter. Make into cakes an inch thick and two by three inches 
in area. Dry them in the air, but not in the sun. Keep 
them in a bag in a cool, dry place. One of these cakes is 
enough for four quarts of flour. To use them, soak in 
milk or water several hours and use as other yeast. 

Compressed Yeast. — There are many valuable preparations 
of this yeast, excellent in quality, and convenient to use. 
They must be fresh, however, or they will fail of their pur- 
pose. 



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XI.— PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 

CARE IN INGREDIENTS AND MANIPULATION ESSENTIAL ) KEEP IN- 
GREDIENTS COOL ; MIX QUICKLY ; HOW TO SHORTEN; HOW TC 
ROLL; THE FILLING; THE BAKING. SEVENTY-NINE RECIPES 
FOR PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 

THAT pastry may be wholesome and appetizing, great 
care in the selection of ingredients and in their ma- 
nipulation is absolutely essential. One fact must 
always be borne in mind — that inferior ingredients cannot be 
made into superior compounds — though the finest ingre- 
dients may be ruined by careless or unskillful handling. 
Some suggestions of general application are therefore de- 
sirable. 

Be careful to have all the materials cool, and the butter and 
lard hard ; use cold water (ice-water if convenient) ; use a 
cool knife, and work on a marble slab if it can be had. 

Put the ingredients together quickly, handling as little as 
possible ; slow mixing and much contact with the hands 
or fingers make tough crust. Always use well-sifted flour. 

Except in puff-paste, lard and butter in about equal pro- 
portions make the best crust ; if made of butter alone, it is 
almost sure to be tough. That of lard alone, though ten- 
der, is usually white and insipid. Beef drippings, or the 
drippings of fresh pork, make a very light and palataole 
crust, lighter and more tender indeed than that made with 
butter alone, much better tasted than that made with lard 
alone, and quite equal to that made with butter and lard 
combined. Never use mutton drippings in crust. 

Use very little salt and very little water; pour the lattei 
\n gradually, only a few drops at a time, unless you want 
tough crust. 

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149 



Use plenty of flour on your paste-board, to keep the paste 
from sticking. Work the crust of one pie at a time, and 
always roll from you — one way only. 

The filling for the pie should be perfectly cool when put 
in, or it will make the bottom crust heavy. 

In making juicy pies, cut a slit in the top to let the steam 
escape, else the pie will be puffed unduly. 

The oven should be hot, but not sufficiently so to scorch 
or to set the paste before it has had time to rise ; if too 
slack, the paste will not rise at all, but will be white and 
clammy. The best paste has a tinge of yellow. If per- 
mitted to scorch or brown, even the best paste becomes 
rancid. 

RECIPES. 

Pie Crust — Take one-half cupful of lard, one-half cupful 
of butter, one quart of sifted flour, one cupful of cold water 
and a little salt. Rub the butter and lard slightly into the 
flour ; wet it with the water, mixing it as little as possible. 
This quantity will make two large or three small pies. 

Pie Crust Glaze. — To prevent juice from soaking the under 
crust, beat up the white of an egg, and before filling the pie, 
brush over the crust with the beaten egg. Brush over the 
top crust also, to give it a beautiful yellow brown. 

Puff Paste. — Take one pound of sifted flour, on which 
sprinkle a very little sugar ; take the yelks of one or two 
eggs, and beat into them a little ice-water, and pour gently 
into the centre of the flour, and work into a firm paste, 
adding water as is necessary; divide three-quarters of a 
pound or a pound of firm, solid butter, as you prefer, into 
three parts ; roll out the paste, and spread one part of the 
butter on half of the paste ; fold the other half over, and 
roll out again, repeating the process until the butter is all 
jelled in ; then set the paste on the ice for fifteen or twenty 



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e£^> 



minutes, after which roll out again three times, each time 
rolling it the opposite direction ; then put on the ice again 
until cold, when it is ready for use. Such paste will keep 
several days in a refrigerator, but should not be allowed to 
freeze. 

Paste Shells. — Take sufficient rich puff-paste prepared as 
in the preceding recipe, roll very thin, cut to shape, and bake 
in a brisk oven in tin pans. Baked carefully, before fill- 
ing with fruit, the paste rises better. When cool, the shells, 
may be filled with stewed fruit, jelly, preserves, rich cream 
whipped to a stiff froth, raspberries, strawberries, or sliced 
peaches. These are delicious light desserts. Raspberries, 
strawberries, or sliced peaches, smothered with whipped 
cream on these shells, are really exquisite. 

Apple Pie. — Line a pie plate with paste, and fill it heaping 
full with tart apples, sliced very thin. Sweeten and spice to 
taste, mixing well into the apples. Put in plenty of butter r 
and moisten well with cream. Bake until the appies are 
thoroughly done. Use no upper crust. 

Apple Meringue Pie. — Stew and sweeten ripe, juicy apples. 
Mash smooth, and season with nutmeg. Fill the crust, and 
bake until just done. Spread over the apple a thick me- 
ringue, made by whipping to a stiff froth the whites of three 
eggs tor each pie, sweetening with a tablespconful of pow- 
dered sugar for each egg. Flavor this with vanilla ; beat 
until it will stand alone, and cover the pie three-quarters of 
an inch thick. Set back in the oven until the meringue is 
well set. Eat cold. 

Peach Meringue Pie. — Proceed as above in all respects, 
simply substituting peaches for apples. Whipped cream 
will make a delightful substitute for the whipped egg in 
either of these meringue pies. 

Peach Pie. — Bake rich shells about two-thirds done ; if 
your peaches are fully ripe, cut them into halves or quarters. 



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put in the shell, sweeten and flavor to taste, cover or not as 
you choose, and finish baking in a quick oven ; if the 
peaches are ripe, but not soft, it will improve the flavor to 
sugar them down some hours before you wish to use them ; 
if not ripe, they should be stewed. 

Gooseberry Pie. — Stew the gooseberries with plenty of 
white sugar, and use plain puff-paste for crust. 

Cherry Pie. — Having removed the stones, put in sugar as 
may be needed, and stew the cherries slowly till they are 
quite done, if you use shells, or till nearly done if you use 
paste. A few of the pits added in stewing increase the 
richness of the flavor ; but they should not go into the pies. 
If baked slowly the cherries need not be stewed at all. 

Rhnbarb Pie. — Remove the skin from the stalks ; cut them 
in small pieces ; pour boiling water over and let stand for 
ten minutes ; drain thoroughly ; then fill the pie-dish evenly 
full ; put in plenty of sugar, a little butter, and dredge a 
trifle of flour evenly over the top ; cover with a thin crust, 
and bake the same as apple pie. Equal quantities of apple 
and rhubarb used in the same manner make a very good pie.. 

Pumpkin Pie. — Stew the pumpkin until thoroughly done, 
and pass it through a colander. To one quart of stewed 
pumpkin, add three eggs, and one pint of milk. Sweeten, 
and spice with ground ginger and cinnamon to taste. Add 
butter, rose water, and a little brandy. The quantity of 
milk used will vary as the pumpkin may be moist or dry. 

Sweet Potato Pie. — Scrape clean two good-sized sweet pota- 
toes ; boil ; when tender, rub through the colander ; beat 
the yelks of three eggs light ; stir with a pint of sweet milk 
into the potato ; add a small teacupful of sugar, a pinch of 
salt; flavor with a little fresh lemon, or lemon extract; 
bake to a nice brown ; when done, make a meringue top with 
the whites of eggs and powdered sugar ; brown this a 
moment in the oven. 



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Custard Pie. — Take one quart of milk, five eggs, four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, a small piece of butter. Sift over the 
top Durkee's mixed spice. 

Lemon Pie. — Let two cupfuls of water come to a boil ; put 
in two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved. When it 
has boiled enough, take it from the stove, add the juice and 
rind of two lemons, two cupfuls of sugar, a piece of butter 
the size of a walnut, and the yelks of two eggs. Beat the 
whites of these eggs with pulverized sugar, and put on the 
top of the pies when done. Put into the oven to brown. 

Orange Pie. — Beat the yelks of three eggs until light, and 
add to them the juice and grated rind of one orange, tfnee- 
quarters of a cupful of sugar, and a tablespoonful of corn- 
starch mixed in half a cupful of water. Bake without 
upper crust, using the whites of the eggs for meringue. 

Cream Pie. — One pint of milk, scalded ; two tablespoonfuls' 
of corn-starch, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, yelks of two 
eggs. Wet the starch with a little cold milk ; beat the eggS' 
and sugar until light, and stir the whole into the scalding 
milk. Flavor with lemon or vanilla, and set aside to cook 
Line a plate with pie-crust and bake ; fill it with the cream,, 
and cover with frosting made of the whites of the eggs, 
beaten dry, with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Bake to a 
delicate brown. 

Cocoanilt Pie. — One quart of milk, half a pound of grated 
cocoanut, three eggs, six tablespoonfuls of sugar, butter the 
size of an egg. Bake in open shells. 

Cheese-cake Pie. — This may be made from the above recipe, 
substituting cottage-cheese for the cocoanut. Sprinkle the 
top with Durkee's mixed spices. 

Mince Pie. — Seven pounds of beef, three and a half pounds 
of beef suet, five pounds of raisins, two pounds of currants, 
one-half peck of apples, four pounds of sugar, three-quarters 



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of a pound of citron, one-quarter of a pound of preserved 
lemon, two large oranges, four nutmegs, half an ounce of 
cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves, and three pints of brandy. 
This quantity of mince-meat will make from twenty to 
twenty-five pies. When making the pies, moisten the meat 
with sweet cider. 

Tarts. — Use the best of puff-paste; roll it out a little 
thicker than pie-crust, and cut with a large biscuit-cutter 
twice as many as you intend to have of tarts. Then cut 
out of half of these a small round in the centre, which will 
leave a circular rim of crust ; lift this up carefully, and lay 
it on the other pieces. Bake in pans, so providing both the 
bottom and the top crusts. Fill with any kind of preserves, 
jam, or jelly. 

Pineapple Tart. — Take a fine, large, ripe pineapple ; re- 
move the leaves and quarter it without paring, grate it down 
till you come to the rind ; strew plenty of powdered sugar 
over the grated fruit ; cover it, and let it rest for an houi ; 
then put it into a porcelain kettle, and steam in its own sirup 
till perfectly soft ; have ready some empty shells of puff- 
paste, or bake in patty-pans. When they are cool, fill them 
full with the grated pineapple ; add more sugar, and lay 
round the rim a border of puff-paste. 

Tea Baskets. — Make a short, sweetened pie-crust ; roll thin, 
and partly bake in sheets ; before it is quite done take from 
the oven, cut in squares of four inches or so, take up two 
diagonal corners and pinch together, which makes them 
basket-shaped ; now fill with whipped cream, or white ot 
egg or both, well sweetened and flavored, and return to the 
oven for a few minutes. 

Strawberry Short-cake. — Make a good biscuit crust, and 
roll out about one-quarter of an inch thick, and cut into 
two cakes the same size and shape ; spread one over lightly 
with melted butter, and lay the other over it, and bake in a 



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hot oven. When done, they will fall apart. Butter them 
well as usual. Mix the berries with plenty of sugar, and 
set in a warm place until needed. Spread the berries and 
cakes in alternate layers, berries on the top, and over all 
spread whipped cream or charlotte russe. The juice that 
has run from the fruit can be sent to the table in a tureen 
and served with the cake as it is cut. 

Strawberry Short-cake, No. 2. — Take one quart of flour and 
sift into it two teaspoonfuls of sea-foam, a little salt, quarter 
of a pound of butter rubbed in, with milk enough to moisten 
properly. Handle as little as possible, divide into two parts, 
roll each flat, and place in two jelly pans. Bake quickly, 
then split apart the top and bottom of each crust ; spread on 
plenty of butter, have the strawberries washed and drained 
in a sieve, crush them slightly, and sweeten well. Spread 
plenty of berries over each layer of the crust, and have some 
of the crushed and sweetened berries in a deep dish. When 
the cake is cut and served, cover each piece with the crushed 
berries, using this as sauce. 

Batter Pudding. — Beat the yelks and whites of four eggs 
separately, and mix them with six or eight ounces of flour 
and a saltspoonful of salt. Make the batter of the proper 
consistency by adding a little more than a pint of milk ; mix 
carefully; butter a baking-tin, pour the mixture into it, and 
bake three-quarters of an hour. Serve with vanilla sauce. 

Apple Batter Pudding. — Core and peel eight apples, put in 
a dish, fill the places from which the cores have been taken 
with brown sugar, cover and bake. Beat the yelks of four 
eggs light, add two teacupfuls of flour, with three even tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder sifted with it, one pint of milk, 
and teaspoonful of salt, then the whites well beaten ; pom 
ovjr the apples and bake. Use sauce with it. 

Suet Pudding. — Take a pint of milk, two eggs well beaten, 
half a pound of finely chopped suet, and a teaspoonful of 



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salt. Add flour gradually till you have a pretty thick batter; 
boil two hours, and eat with molasses. 

Suet Pudding, No. 2. — One cupful of suet or butter, one cup- 
ful of molasses, one bowlful of raisins and currants, one egg, 
one cupful of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of saleratus dis- 
solved in milk ; one-fourth teaspoonful of cloves, and one- 
half of nutmeg. Mix stiff with flour and steam three hours. 
A fine sauce for this pudding may be made thus : One cup- 
ful of butter and two cupfuls of sugar, beat into a cream ; 
add three eggs beaten very light ; stir in two tablespoonfuls 
of boiling water. Flavor with wine, brandy, or vanilla. 

Hasty Pudding. — Wet a heaping cupful of Indian-meal and 
a half cupful of flour with a pint of milk ; stir it into a quart 
of boiling water. Boil hard for half an hour, stirring from 
the bottom almost constantly. Put in a teaspoonful of salt 
and a tablespoonful of butter, and simmer ten minutes 
longer. Turn into a deep, uncovered dish, and eat with 
sugar and cream, or sugar and butter with nutmeg. 

Baked Hasty Pudding. — Take from a pint of new milk suffi 
cient to mix into a thin batter two ounces of flour, put the 
remainder, with a small pinch of salt, into a clean saucepan, 
and when it boils quickly, stir the flour briskly to it"; keep 
it stirred over a gentle fire for ten minutes, pour it out, and 
when it has become a little cool, mix with it two ounces of 
fresh butter, three of powdered sugar, the grated rind of a 
small lemon, four large or five small eggs, and half a glass 
of brandy or as much orange-flower water. Bake the pud- 
ding half an hour in a gentle oven. 

Minute Pudding. — Take six eggs, two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, one cupful of flour, a lump of butter large as an egg, 
and half a nutmeg ; you may add, if desired, a half pound 
of raisins ; mix well and bake quick. 

Coin Pudding. — Twelve ears of sweet corn grated to one 



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quart of sweet milk ; add a quarter of a pound of good but 
ter, quarter of a pound of sugar, and four eggs ; bake from 
three to four hours. 

Farina Pudding. — Boil one quart of milk, stir in slowiy 
three tablespoonfuls of farina, let it boil a few minutes ; beat 
two eggs and four tablespoonfuls of sugar with one pint of 
milk, and mix thoroughly with the farina ; when it has 
cooled so as to be little more than lukewarm, put in pans, 
and bake in a moderate oven. Serve with cream sauce. 

Plain Tapioca Pudding. — A cup not quite full of tapioca to 
a quart of milk ; let it stand on the side of the range till it 
swells; add while hot a tablespoonful of butter and a cupful 
of white sugar, and let it cool ; then add five eggs (three 
will do quite well), well beaten, and flavor to your taste. To 
be baked from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. It is 
veiy nice when dressed with wine sauce, but may be eaten 
with plainer dressing. 

Tapioca and Apple Pudding. — One coffeecupful of Durkee's 
farina-tapioca, one dozen good-flavored, tart apples, pared 
and cored, one quart of water, a little salt. Cover the 
tapioca with the water, and set it in a tolerably warm place 
to soak five or six hours, stirring occasionally. Lay the 
apples in a deep dish, put a little sugar and spice in the 
centre, pour over the tapioca, and bake one hour. 

Peaches may be substituted for apples, which will make a 
delightful dish. Serve with hard sauce. 

Vermicelli Pudding. — Into a pint and a half of boiling milk 
drop four ounces of fresh vermicelli, and keep it simmering 
and stirred up gently ten minutes, when it will have become 
very thick ; then mix with it three and one-half ounces of 
sugar, two ounces of butter, and a little salt. When the 
whole is well blended, pour it out, beat it for a few minutes 
tc cool it, then add by degrees four well-beaten eggs, and th? 



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grated rind of a lemon ; pour a little clarified butter over the 
top ; bake it from one-half to three-fourths of an hour. 

Sago Pudding. — Two large spoonfuls of sago boiled in one 
quart of water, the peel of one lemon, a little nutmeg ; when 
cold add four eggs and a little salt. Bake about one hour 
and a half. Serve with sugar and cream. 

Arrow-root Pudding. — Boil one quart of milk, and stir into 
it four heaping tablespoonfuls of arrow-root dissolved in a 
little milk, mixed with four well-beaten eggs and two table- 
spoonfuls of white sugar. Boil three minutes. Eat with 
cream and sugar. This pudding is improved by flavoring 
with lemon. It should be prepared for table by pouring into 
wet molds. 

Cocoanut Pudding. — One cocoanut finely grated (use both 
the meat and milk), one quart of milk, one cupful of sugar, 
five eggs, half a cupful of butter, a little salt, and a tea- 
spoonful of rose-water. Boil the milk, and pour upon the 
cocoanut, add the eggs well beaten, and the other ingre- 
dients, and bake in a deep aish, with or without an under- 
crust. 

Cocoanut Pudding, No. 2. — Put a pint of milk to boil in a 
farina kettle. Take four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and 
dissolve it in a little cold milk, then stir it into the boiling 
milk. Add half a cupful of sugar, the well-beaten whites of 
four eggs, half a grated cocoanut, and a teaspoonful of va- 
nilla extract ; turn into a mold to cool. For a suitable sauce 
put a pint of milk to boil, beat the yelks of four eggs with 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar till light, then add the boiling 
milk, with a tablespoonful of vanilla extract. Cook for two 
minutes in a farina kettle, then turn out to cool. 

Rice Pudding. — One quart of milk, three eggs, ha'f a cup- 
ful of rice, three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, half a cupful 
c>i butter, one cupful of raisins, seeded. Soak the rice in a 



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pint of the milk an hour, then set the saucepan containing 
it where it will slowly heat to a boil. Boil five minutes ; re- 
move and let it cool. Beat the eggs, add the sugar and but- 
ter, the rice and the milk in which it was cooked, with the 
pint of unboiled milk, and finally the raisins. Grate nut- 
meg on the top, and bake three-quarters of an hour, or 
until the custard is well set and of a light brown. Serve 
with hard brandy sauce. 

Rice Pudding, No. 2. — Three-quarters of a cupful of soaked 
rice, one cupful of sugar, three pints of milk, one table- 
spoonful of butter. Season with lemon rind or spice to 
taste. Bake three-quarters of an hour. 

Cottage Pudding. — Three cupfuls flour, or sufficient to 
make the batter ; one teaspoonful butter, one cupful sugar, 
two eggs, one cupful milk, half a teaspoonful soda, one tea- 
spoonful each of cream of tartar and salt ; mix the cream 
of tartar with the flour, beat the whites of the eggs ; put 
the butter, sugar, and yelks of the eggs together; then 
work in the milk, soda, and salt, adding gradually the flour 
and whites of the eggs ; there should be flour enough to 
make a fairly stiff batter ; butter a mold or dish, and bake ; 
it may be turned out or served from the dish ; to be eaten 
with any liquid sauce. 

Rennet Pudding. — Take one quart of milk, and warm it 
enough to remove the chill ; in summer it does not need 
warming at all ; stir into it three tablespoonfuls of granu- 
lated sugar, two of rose-water, and four of rennet wine ; stii 
it gently, not more than a minute ; let it stand, and do not 
move it till it is curdled, then place it gently in the ice chest 
and grate nutmeg on the top. Be careful not to shake it in 
moving, for if the curd is disturbed it will turn to whey. 

Lemon Pudding. — Take the yellow part of the rind of one, 
and the juice of two large, juicy lemons. Beat to a cream half 
a pound of butter, and the same of powdered sugar. Beat 



PASTA Y AND PUDDINGS. 



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six eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the mix- 
ture. Add a glass of wine or brandy. Put the whole into 
a dish with a broad edge ; put round two or three layers of 
puff-paste. Bake half an hour, and when cold sprinkle white 
sugar over it. Oranges may be used in the same way. To 
be eaten cold. 

Orange Pudding. — Two oranges — the juice of both and 
grated peel of one ; juice of one lemon ; one half-pound 
lady's-fingers — stale and crumbled ; two cupfuls of milk ; 
four eggs, one-half cupful sugar ; one tablespoonful corn- 
starch, wet with water ; one tablespoonful butter, melted. 
Soak the crumbs in the cold milk, whip up light, and add the 
eggs and sugar, already beaten to a cream with the batter. 
Next add the corn-starch, and when the mold is buttered 
and water boiling hard, stir in the juice and peel of the 
fruit. Do this quickly, and plunge the mold directly into 
the hot water. Boil one hour ; turn out and eat with very 
sweet brandy sauce. 

Apple Pudding. — Fill an earthen baking-dish with finely 
chopped apples ; season with sugar and nutmeg, add a 
little water, set it on the back of the range until the apples 
ire tender ; then make a crust of one teacupful of sweet 
milk, one tablespoonful of butter, a little salt, one teaspoon- 
f>i\ baking-powder, flour enough to roll out; lay the crust 
< n top of the apples and bake. To be eaten hot with sweet 
sauce, flavored with lemon or vanilla. Other kinds of fruit 
may be used in the same manner. 

Bi'ead Pudding. — One pint bread-crumbs ; one quart milk ; 
rind of one lemon grated into milk ; yelks four eggs, beaten 
and mixed with one-half cupful sugar. Bake one-half hour. 
Spread meringue on top. 

Fruit Bread Pudding. — Soak three large cupfuls of very fine 
bread-crumbs, through which has been mixed two teaspoon- 
fuls of cream tartar, in a quart of milk ; next, beat in three 



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eggs well whipped, and a cupful of sugar; add half a cup-, 
ful of finely chopped suet, a little salt, nutmeg, and cinna- 
mon. Whip the batter very light, and then add fruit as fol- 
lows, it having been well dredged with flour : Half pound 
of raisins, seeded and cut in too ; one tablespoonful of finely 
sliced citron ; half a pound of Sultana raisins, washed well 
and dried. Add a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in hot 
water ; heat for three minutes ; put into a buttered mold, 
and boil hard for two hours. Eat with brandy sauce. 

Delmonico Pudding. — One quart of milk, four eggs, using 
the white of one only; three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two 
tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, one cupful of cocoanut, a little 
salt. Put the milk in a farina boiler to scald ; wet the starch 
in cold milk ; beat the eggs and sugar, and stir all into the 
scalding milk ; add the cocoanut, and pour the whole into a 
pudding-dish ; whip dry the three whites, reserved as above, 
with three tablespoonfuls of sugar ; flavor with lemon or 
vanilla ; spread over the pudding and bake a light brown. 
Eat hot or cold. 

Almond Pudding. — Turn boiling water on to three-fourths 
of a pound of sweet almonds ; let it remain until the skin 
comes off easily ; rub with a dry cloth ; when dry, pound 
fine with one large spoonful of rose-water ; beat six eggs to 
a stiff froth with three spoonfuls of fine white sugar ; mix 
with one quart of milk, three spoonfuls of pounded crackers, 
four ounces of melted butter, and the same of citron cut 
nto bits ; add almonds ; stir all together, and bake in a 
small pudding-dish with a lining and rim of pastry. This 
pudding is best when cold. It will bake in half an hour in 
a quick oven. 

Cup Custard. — One quart of milk, five eggs, teaspoonful of 
butter, sugar to taste. Pour into buttered cups, season with 
Durkee's mixed spices, and bake. This can be baked in a 
pudding-pan, if preferred. 



PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 



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Rice Custard. — Into a quart of boiling water stir two 
tablespoonfuls of rice flour, dissolved in a little cold milk ; 
add two well-beaten eggs to the boiling mixture ; sweeten 
and flavor to taste. 

Chocolate Custard. — Three pints of sweet milk, four table- 
spoonfuls of grated chocolate, three tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch, and two eggs. Put the chocolate and a little milk 
on to boil, stir it until smooth, then add a little cold milk. 
Beat up the eggs in the remainder of the milk, and pour all 
into the chocolate. Stir until it thickens ; take off the nre P 
and add sugar and vanilla to taste. Place in a glass dish, 
and when cold, drop large spoonfuls of the whites of eggs, 
beaten very light with sugar, over the top, in the centre of 
each, a little currant jelly. This makes a very ornamental, 
as well as palatable dish. 

Chocolate Pudding. — Make a corn-starch pudding with a 
quart of milk, three teaspoonfuls of corn-starch, and three 
tablespoonfuls of sugar. When done, remove about half 
and flavor to taste, and then to that remaining in the kettle 
add an egg beaten very light and two ounces of vanilla 
chocolate. Put in a mold, alternating the dark and light, 
and serve with whipped cream. 

Baked Indian Pudding. — Boil one pint of milk ; while boil- 
ing stir in one cupful of Indian-meal ; let it cool a little, and 
add three eggs well-beaten, one pint of cold milk, one table- 
spoonful of flour, one-half cupful of sugar, one cupful of 
molasses, one teaspoonful of ginger, one of cinnamon, and a 
little salt. Bake an hour and a half. 

Queen's Pudding. — One pint of bread-crumbs, one quart of 
milk, yelks of four eggs, rind of one lemon ; sweeten to taste. 
Bake as a custard. After baking, spread the top with cur- 
rant jelly. Beat the whites of the eggs, add to them one 
cupful of sugar dissolved in the juice of a lemon. Spread 
this over the pudding, and brown 
11 



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Brown Betty. — One loaf of stale bread crumbled fine, one- 
half cupful of milk, and twelve apples. Alternate layers of 
bread and sliced apples, sugared, buttered, and spiced. 
Moisten with the milk. Bake in a tin pudding-pan for three 
hours. 

Poor Man's Plum Pudding. — One cupful of molasses, one 
cupful of suet chopped very fine, beaten smoothly together ; 
one teaspoonful of salt and one of soda mixed through a 
half-pound of flour, one pint of milk, one pound of raisins, 
seeded and chopped, and a half-pound of sliced citron. Boil 
three hours. 

English Plum Pudding. — Two pounds of chopped suet, 
three pounds of seeded raisins, two pounds of currants, one- 
half pound of citron, two pounds of sugar, five eggs, one pint 
of milk, one-half pint of brandy, two nutmegs, a little salt, 
flour sufficient to make it very stiff. Put it into one or two 
bags, and boil in a large quantity of water seven or eight 
hours. Serve with sauce. 

Spice Pudding. — One cupful of sour milk, one cupful of 
butter, four cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of currants, one 
cupful of sugar, four eggs, four teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, 
one teaspoonful of cloves, and one teaspoonful of soda. Bake 
in a quick oven, and serve with brandy sauce. 

Paradise Pudding. — Stew until tender three ounces of rice 
in a pint and a quarter of milk, add four ounces of raisins, 
three ounces of suet chopped fine, two and a half ounces of 
sugar, two eggs, a little nutmeg and lemon peel. Boil three 
hours. Serve with hard sauce. 

Jelly Pudding. — Two cupfuls very fine stale biscuit or 
bread-crumbs ; one cupful of rich milk — half cream, if you 
can get it; five eggs, beaten very light; one-half teaspoon- 
ful of soda, stirred in boiling water ; one cupful of sweet 
J elly, jam, or marmalade. Scald the milk and pour over the 






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crumbs. Beat until half cold, and stir in the beaten yelks, 
then whites, finally the soda. Fill large cups half full with 
the batter ; set in a quick oven and bake half an hour. 
When done, turn out quickly and dexterously ; with a sharp 
knife make an incision in the side of each ; pull partly open, 
and put a liberal spoonful of the conserve within. Close the 
slit by pinching the edges with your fingers. Eat warm with 
sweetened cream. 

Cabinet Pudding. — Take of the remains of any kind of cake 
broken up two cupfuls, half a cupful of raisins, half a can of 
peaches, four eggs, one and a half pints of milk. Butter a 
plain pudding mold and lay in some of the broken cake, 
one-third of the raisins, stoned, one-third of the peaches ; 
make two layers of the remainder of the cake, raisins, and 
peaches. Cover with a very thin slice of bread, then pour 
over the milk beaten with the eggs and sugar. Set in a 
saucepan of boiling water to reach two-thirds up the side of 
the mold, and steam three-quarters of an hour. 

Turn out carefully on a dish, and serve with peach sauce, 
made as follows : Place the peach juice from the can into a 
small saucepan ; add an equal volume of water, a little more 
sugar, and eight or ten raisins ; boil ten minutes, strain, and 
just before serving add six drops of bitter almond. 

Delicious Pudding. — Bake a common sponge cake in a flat- 
bottomed pudding-dish ; when ready for use, cut in six or 
eight pieces ; split and spread with butter, and return them 
to the dish. Make a custard with four eggs to a quart of 
milk, flavor and sweeten to taste ; pour over the cake and 
oake one-half hour. The cake will swell and fill the custard. 
Any stale cake will do about as well as sponge cake. 

Bird's-nest Puddiug.— Make the foundation of the nest of 
corn-starch or blanc-mange. Cut strips of lemon peel, boil 
in a sirup of water and sugar till tender, and arrange around 
the blanc-mange to represent straw. Extract the contents 



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of four eggs through a small hole, and fill the shells witl* 
hot blanc-mange or corn-starch. When cold, break off the 
shells, and lay the molded eggs in the nest. 

Snow Pudding. — Soak an ounce of gelatine in a pint of 
cold water for one hour ; then place it over the fire, stir 
gently, and remove as soon as it is dissolved ; when almost 
cold, beat to a stiff froth with an egg-beater. Beat the 
whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and add it to the 
gelatine froth, together with the juice of three lemons, and 
pulverized sugar to the taste. Mix the whole well together, 
pour into a mold, and set aside to cool. Serve on a dish 
with soft custard made from the yelks of the eggs. 

Cherry Pudding. — Two eggs, one cupful sweet milk, flour 
enough to make a stiff batter, two teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder, and as many cherries as can be stirred in. Eat with 
sauce made of the cherries. 

Blackberry Mush. — Put the berries into a preserving kettle 
and mash with sugar enough to make sweet ; set over the 
fire, and when it begins to simmer, stir in very gradually 
one tablespoonful, or more if needed, of corn-starch to a 
quart of fruit ; stir until well cooked, and eat either hot 
or cold with cream ; raspberries also may be used this way. 

Roley-poley. — Make a good biscuit dough, and roll about 
three-quarters of an inch thick, and spread with berries, 
preserves, or slices of apple ; roll up and tie in a cloth ; boil 
or steam an hour and a half. 

Berry or Fruit Puddings. — One quart sifted flour, two table- 
spoonfuls shortening, half teaspoonful salt, and two tea- 
spoonfuls baking-powder; mix well, then form a soft dough 
of milk or water, roll out thin, and spread with any kind of 
berries, fruit, or preserves ; roll it up, tie in a cloth, and 
place in the steamer, or boil in a mold. This makes fine 
dumplings. 



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PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 



165 



German Puffs. — Two cups of sweet milk, two cups of flour, 
three eggs, and a little salt. Bake in buttered cups. 

Indian Puffs. — Into one quart of boiling milk stir eight 
tablespoonfuls of corn-meal and four tablespoonfuls of 
brown sugar ; boil five minutes, stirring constantly ; when 
cool, add six well-beaten eggs ; bake in buttered cups half 
an hour. Eat with sauce. 

White Puffs. — One pint rich milk ; whites of four eggs 
whipped stiff; one heaping cupful prepared flour ; one scant 
cupful powdered sugar ; grated peel of half a lemon ; a little 
salt. Whisk the eggs and sugar to a meringue, and add 
this alternately with the flour to the milk. Cream, or half 
cream half milk, is better. Beat until the mixture is very 
light, and bake in buttered cups or tins. Turn out, sift 
powdered sugar over them, and eat with lemon sauce. 

Oak Balls. — Three cupfuls each of flour and milk, three 
eggs, whites and yelks beaten separately and very light, 
three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a little salt. Pour in 
well-buttered muffin-rings, and bake to a nice brown. 

Apple Dumplings. — Make a biscuit dough, and cover the 
apples (pared and cored), singly; tie in cloths and drop in 
boiling water. Let it boil half an hour. If preferred, mix 
flour and a little salt, and scald with boiling water. When 
cold enough to handle, roll it out and cover the apples. Or 
a pie-crust may be made for a cover and the dumplings may 
be baked in the oven. 

Peach Dumplings. — These may be made according to the 
preceding recipe, substituting peaches for apples. 

Lemon Dumplings. — Take suet, four ounces ; moist sugar, 
four ounces ; bread-crumbs, one-half pound ; one lemon. 
Grate the rind of the lemon, squeeze out the juice, mix all 
the ingredients. Put in buttered teacups and bake three- 
quarters of an hour. 





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XII.— CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DES 

SERTS. 

LIGHT DESSERTS FOR HOME USE; FROZEN PREPARATIONS I 
FREEZERS ; HOW TO FREEZE CREAMS, ETC. ; HOW TO TURN OUT 
THE MOLDS; WHIPPED .CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. FORTY- FIVE' 

RECIPES FOR CREAMS, JELLIES, BLANC- MANGES, ETC. 

THERE is a delightful range of light desserts which need 
to be introduced more generally into our homes. 
They have too long been allowed to rest in the con- 
fectioner's under the erroneous notion that they w r ere be- 
yond the capacity of the ordinary housekeeper. 

Prominent among these desserts are ice-cream and water- 
ices with all their splendid possibilities of variety. For hints- 
concerning freezers and other tools for the home manufac- 
ture of these preparations, see the last chapter of this 
department. 

In making ice-cream, use only the best materials. Avoid 
milk thickened with arrow-root, corn-starch, or any farina- 
ceous substance. Pure cream, ripe natural fruits, or good 
extracts of the same, and sugar of the purest quality, com- 
bine to make a perfect ice-cream. To freeze the cream, 
assuming it be already flavored, first pound up ice and mix 
with it a quantity of coarse salt, in the proportion of about 
one-third the quantity of salt to the amount of ice used. 
Put the freezing-can in the centre of the tub, taking care 
that the lid is securely fastened down, and pile the mixed 
ice and salt' around it to within three inches of the top, or 
certainly as high as the cream reaches on the inside. 

Begin to stir the cream at once, and stir rapidly and con- 
stantly. This is essential to make the cream smooth. If 

166 



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CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS. 167 

the cream is allowed to freeze to the sides of the can with- 
out being quickly removed, there will inevitably be lumps 
of ice through it. The freezing has progressed sufficiently 
far when the cream will stand heaped upon a spoon. 

When a small can of cream has been made for table use, 
it is desirable to serve it in a cylindrical form as it comes 
solid from the can. To remove it in this form, take the can 
from the ice and wipe off all the salt and ice which adheres 
to it. Remove the lid and invert the can upon a plate. 
Wrap about the can a towel wet with warm water. This 
will sufficiently relax the freezing within the can to allow 
the cream to slide out in compact form. Molds of 
cream may be removed in the same manner, by dipping 
them in warm water for a moment. Water-ices and frozen 
fruits need the same general treatment. 

For whipping cream, etc., some of the improved beaters, 
described at the end of this department, will be found to be 
superior to the old hand methods. In all delicate dishes the 
best ingredients must invariably be used. 

RECIPES. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. — Two quarts of pure cream, fourteen 
ounces of white sugar, flavored with vanilla bean or extract 
of vanilla to taste ; mix well, and freeze as directed 
above. Pure cream needs no thickening or boiling. Milk 
may be boiled or thickened with arrow-root or corn- 
starch, but it will not produce ice cream. 

Lemon Ice-cream. — For the same quantity of cream and 
sugar, as above, stir in the juice of from four to eight 
lemons, according to size and juiciness, and grate in a little 
of the rind. Then freeze as above. 

Orange Ice-cream. — Proceed as in lemon cream, using 
oranges, and regulating the quantity of sugar as the fruit is 
more or less sweet. 






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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



Chocolate Ice-cream. — For one gallon of ice-cream, grate 
fine about one-half cake of Baker's chocolate ; make ice- 
cream as for the recipe above ; flavor lightly with vanilla 
and stir in the chocolate. 

Strawberry Ice-cream. — Mash one pint of fresh, ripe straw- 
berries ; sprinkle them with half a pound of fine sugar ; let 
it stand about an hour ; strain though a fine sieve, or a 
cloth ; if the sugar is not dissolved, stir it well ; add a little 
water; stir this juice into the cream prepared as above and 
freeze. 

Raspberry Ice-cream. — Make the same as strawberry, sub- 
stituting the raspberries merely. 

Peach Ice-cream. — Take fine, ripe freestone peaches ; pare, 
chop fine, mash, and work as for strawberry cream. 

Pine-apple Ice-cream. — Pare the fruit, shred fine, and work as 
in strawberry cream. 

Orange Water-ice. — Take one dozen oranges ; grate the 
skin and squeeze out the juice; add six quarts of water 
and ten ounces of white sugar to each quart of water ; mix 
well and put into the freezer. Be careful to stir steadily 
while freezing, or the mixture will cake into lumps. The 
amount of sugar and of orange-juice may be varied to suit 
taste. 

Lemon Water-ice. — To one quart of water, add the juice of 
four lemons and one pound of sugar. Then proceed as 
above. Currants, raspberries, strawberries, and all the juicy 
fruits may be treated in the same way. 

Tutti Frutti. — One quart of rich cream, one and one-half 
ounces of sweet almonds, chopped fine ; one-half pound 
of sugar ; freeze, and when sufficiently congealed, add one- 



CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS. 



169 



half pound of preserved fruits, with a few white raisins 
chopped, and finely sliced citron. Cut the fruit small, and 
mix well with the cream. Freeze like ice-cream, and keep 
on ice until required. 

Frozen Fruits. — Take two quarts of rich cream and two 
teacupfuls of sugar, mix well together and put into a freezer 
with ice and salt packed around it. Have ready one quart 
of peaches, mashed and sweetened. When the cream is 
very cold, stir them in and freeze all together. Strawberries 
can be used in the same way, but will require more sugar. 
Cherries are specially delightful in this form. 

Whipped Cream. — To one quart of cream whipped very 
thick, add powdered sugar to taste ; then add one tumbler 
of wine. Make just before using. 

Italian Cream. — Divide two pints of cream equally in two 
bowls ; with one bowl mix six ounces of powdered sugar, 
the juice of two large lemons, and two glassfuls of white 
wine ; then add the other pint of cream, and stir the whole 
very hard ; boil two ounces of isinglass with four small tea- 
cupfuls of water till reduced one-half; then stir the isinglass, 
lukewarm, in the other ingredients ; put them in a glass dish 
to harden. 



Syllabub. — Whip a small cupful of powdered sugar into a 
quart of rich cream, and another cupful of sugar into the 
whites of four eggs, 
of white wine and flavoring to taste. 



Mix these together, and add a glass 



Spanish Cream. — Three half-pints of milk, half a box of 
gelatine, five tablespoonfuls of white sugar, three eggs, and 
two teaspoonfuls of vanilla. Soak the gelatine in cold milk ; 
put on to boil ; when boiling, add the yelks of the eggs 
with the sugar and flavoring extract beaten together. When 
it thickens to the consistency of cream, or after about three 



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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



minutes' boiling, take off the fire, and stir in the whites ol 
the eggs well beaten. Pour into molds, and set aside to 
cool. To be eaten cold, with or without cream. 

Tapioca Cream. — Soak half a cupful of tapioca in water 
over night. Let a quart of milk get steaming hot, and add 
to it the tapioca. Let it boil three minutes, then mix five 
tablespoonfuls of white sugar with the yelks of four eggs ; 
stir them into the milk and tapioca, and let it come to a boil 
again. Beat the whites up stiff; stir them rapidly and 
thoroughly through the boiling 1 tapioca ; add two table- 
spoonfuls of wine and a pinch of salt. Let it stand till 
cold and garnish with macaroons. 

Orange Cream. — Put half a box of gelatine to soak for half 
an hour in cold water enough to cover it. Take three half- 
pints of cream, whip half of it, and heat the other half; dis- 
solve the gelatine in the heated cream ; then strain it, and 
return to the boiler again. Take the yelks of five eggs and 
a cupful of sugar ; beat them together till light, and add to 
the boiling cream ; cook about two minutes, stirring con- 
stantly ; take from the fire, and while it cooks, stir in the 
whipped cream and the juice of four oranges, and pour into 
a mold to stiffen. Stir the cream constantly before putting 
into the mold, to prevent it from thickening in lumps. 

Pink Cream. — Three gills of strawberry or currant juice ; 
mix with one-half pound of powdered sugar, one-half pint of 
thick cream; whisk until well mixed; serve in a glass dish. 

Chocolate Bavarian Cream. — Whip one pint of cream to a 
stiff froth, laying it on a sieve; boil a pint of rich milk with 
a vanilla bean and two tablespoonfuls of sugar until it is well 
flavored ; then take it off the fire and add half a box of gela- 
tine, soaked for an hour in half a cupful of water in a warm 
place neai :he range ; when slightly cooled, add two tablets 
">f Baker's chocolate, soaked and smoothed. Stir in the eggs 



cREAAIS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS. 



171 



well-beaten. When it has become quite cold and begins to 
thicken, stir it without ceasing a few minutes, until it is very- 
smooth ; then stir in the whipped cream lightly until it is 
well mixed. Put it into a mold or molds, and set it on ice 
or in a cool place. 

Turret Cream. — Soak one box of gelatine in a cupful of 
milk four hours. Scald three cupfuls of milk; add one cup- 
ful of the sugar ; when this is dissolved, add the soaked 
gelatine. Stir over the fire until almost boiling hot; strain 
and divide into two equal portions. Return one to the fire 
and heat quickly. When it nears the boiling-point, stir in 
the beaten yelks of three eggs. Let all cook together two 
minutes, and turn out into a bowl to cool. When it has 
cooled, churn one pint of cream very stiff, and beat the 
whites of the eggs until they will stand alone. Divide the 
latter into two heaps. As the yellow gelatine begins to 
" form," whip one-half of the whites into it, a little at a time. 
To the white gelatine add the rest of the whites in the same 
manner, alternately with the whipped cream. Season the 
yeHow with vanilla, the white with lemon juice beaten in at 
the last. Wet the inside of a tall, fluted mold with water, 
and arrange in the bottom, close to the outside of the mold, 
a row of crystallized cherries. Then put in a layer of the 
white mixture; on this crystallized apricots or peaches cut 
into strips ; a layer of the yellow, another border of cherries, 
and so on until your mold is full. When firm, which will be 
in a few hours if set on ice, wrap a cloth wrung out in hot 
water about the mold, and invert upon a flat dish. Eat with 
sweet cream, or, if you like, with brandied fruit. Not only 
is this a very palatable dish, but it is also very beautiful, well 
repaying the trouble of its preparation. 

.Velvet Cream. — Half an ounce of isinglass dissolved in one 
and a half cupfuls of white wine; then add the juice and 
grated peel of a lemon, three-quarters of a pound of loaf 



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sugar ; simmer all together until mixed well ; strain and add 
one and a half pints of rich cream, and stir until cool ; pour 
into molds, and let it stand till stiff enough to turn out. 

Calf's Foot Jelly. — Take one pair of calf's feet, and put 
them into a gallon of water ; let it boil half away and skim 
constantly ; strain it when cold ; take the fat from the top 
and bottom ; then warm it ; add sugar, the juice of three 
lemons, a pint of Madeira wine, and the whites of seven 
eggs ; boil it half an hour, strain through a flannel bag, and 
cool in molds. 

Wine Jelly. — One box of Coxe's gelatine dissolved in one 
pint of cold water, one pint of wine, one quart of boiling 
water, two cupfuls of granulated sugar, and three lemons. 
Cool in molds. 

Wine Jelly, No. 2. — Soak one package of sparkling gelatine 
in a large cupful of cold water. Add to this all the juice 
and half the rind of a lemon, two cupfuls of white sugar, and 
a half teaspoonful of bitter almond or two peach leaves, and 
cover for half an hour ; then pour on boiling water, stir, and 
strain. After adding two cupfuls of pale sherry or white 
wine, strain again through a flannel bag. Wet a mold and 
set it in a cold place until the next day. 

Jelly Oranges. — Soak a package of Coxe's gelatine about 
three hours in a cup of cold water. Cut from the top of each 
of a dozen fine oranges a round piece, leaving a hole just 
large enough to admit the bowl of a small spoon or the 
handle of a larger. The smaller the orifice, the better your 
dish will look. Clean out every bit of the pulp very care- 
fully, so as not to tear the edges of the hole. Scrape the 
inner skin from the sides with your fore-finger, and when the 
oranges are emptied lay them in cold water while you make 
the jelly. Strain the juice of all and grated peel of three of 
the oranges through coarse, thin muslin over three cupfuls 
of sugar, squeezing rather hard to get the coloring matter. 



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CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS. 



173 



Stir this until it is a thick sirup, and add a quarter teaspoon- 
ful of cinnamon. Pour two cupfuls of boiling" water upon the 
soaked gelatine, and stir over the fire until well dissolved ; 
add the juice and sugar, stir all together, and strain through 
a flannel bag into a pitcher, not shaking or squeezing it, lest 
it should become cloudy. Wipe off the outside of the 
oranges, set them close together in a dish, the open ends 
uppermost, and fill very full with the warm jelly, as it will 
shrink in cooling. Set it away in a cold place where there 
is no dust. Next day cut each in half with a sharp knife, 
taking care to sever the skin all around before cutting into 
the jelly. If neatly divided, the rich amber jelly will be a 
fair counterfeit of the orange pulp. Pile in a glass dish, 
with green leaves around, as you would the real fruit. This 
is a delicious dish, and it is highly ornamental on the table. 

Apple Jelly. — Soak half a package Coxe's gelatine in one 
cupful of cold water. Pare, core, and slice a dozen well- 
flavored pippins, throwing each piece into cold water as it 
is cut to preserve the color. Pack them in a glass or stone- 
ware jar with just cold water enough to cover them ; cover 
the jar loosely that the steam may escape ; set in a pot of 
warm water and bring to a boil. Cook until the apples are 
broken into pieces. Have ready in a bowl the soaked gela- 
tine, two cupfuls of powdered sugar, the juice of two lemons, 
and the grated peel of one. Strain the apple pulp scalding 
hot over them ; stir until the gelatine is dissolved ; strain 
again through a flannel bag, without shaking or squeezing 
it ; wet a mold with cold water, fill it, and set in a cold 
place until firm. This preparation is greatly improved if 
formed in a mold with a cylinder in the centre, the cavity 
being filled and heaped with whipped cream or syllabub. 

Peach Jelly. — Proceed as in apple jelly, using peaches, 
with a few peach-kernels broken up and boiled with the 
fruit. 





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174 



D OMES TIC CO OKER V. 



Lemon Jelly. — Stir together two large cupfuls of sugar, the 
juice of six lemons and grated peel of two, and a package ol 
well-soaked gelatine. Cover for an hour. Pour three pints 
of boiling water over them ; stir until the gelatine is quite 
melted ; strain through a close flannel bag, and pour into a 
wet mold. 

Orange Jelly. — Soak a package of gelatine in two cupfuls 
of water ; add two cupfuls of sugar, the juice of six large 
oranges, and grated peel of one, the juice of two lemons, 
and peel of one, and cover for an hour. Pour three pints 
of boiling water over them ; stir until the gelatine is quite 
melted; strain through a flannel bag; add a little good 
brandy if desired and strain again ; pour into a wet mold. 

Orange Trifle. — Stir half a package of soaked gelatine into 
a cupful of boiling water. Mix the juice of two oranges 
and rind of one with a cupful of powdered sugar, and pour 
the hot liquid over them. Should the gelatine not dissolve 
readily, set all over the fire and stir until clear. Strain, and 
stir in the beaten yelks of three eggs. Heat quickly within 
a vessel of boiling water, stirring constantly lest the yelks 
curdle. If they do curdle, strain again through coarse flan- 
nel. Set aside until perfectly cold and slightly stiff, then 
whip in a pint of frothed cream. Wet a mold, fill, and set it 
on ice. 

Orange Dessert. — Pare five or six oranges ; cut into thin 
slices ; pour over them a coffeecupful of sugar. Boil one 
pint of milk ; add, while boiling, the yelks of three eggs, 
one tablespoonful of corn-starch (made smooth with a little 
cold milk) ; stir all the time ; as soon as thickened, pour 
over the fruit. Beat the whites of the eggs to a froth ; add 
two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar ; pour over the cus- 
tard, and brown slightly in the oven. Serve cold. 



CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTb. 



175 



Apple Snow. — Grate half a dozen apples to a pulp ; press 
them through a sieve; add half a cupful of powdered sugar 
and a teaspoonful of extract of lemon ; take the whites of 
six eggs, whip them for several minutes, and sprinkle two 
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar over them ; beat the 
apple pulp to a froth, and add the beaten egg ; whip the 
mixture until it looks like stiff snow ; then pile it high in 
rough portions on a glass dish ; garnish with small spoonfuls 
of currant jelly. 

Floating Island. — Beat the yelks of six eggs until very 
light ; sweeten and flavor to taste ; stir into a quart of boil 
ing milk ; cook till it thickens ; when cool, pour into a low 
glass dish ; whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth ; 
sweeten, and place over a dish of boiling water to cook. 
Take a tablespoon and drop on the whites of the cream, far 
enough apart so that the " little white islands " will not 
touch each other. By dropping little specks of bright 
jelly on each island a pleasing effect will be produced. 

Blanc-mange. — Take one quart of milk, one ounce gelatine, 
and sugar to sweeten to taste ; put it on the fire, and keep 
stirring until it is all melted, then pour it into a bowl and 
stir until cold ; season with vanilla; pour it into a mold, 
and set in a cool place to stiffen. 

Tapioca Blanc-mange. — Take one pint of new milk, half a 
pound of the best farina-tapioca soaked in water four 
hours, three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of 
almond or vanilla extract, a little salt. Heat the milk, and 
stir the soaked tapioca. When it has dissolved, add the 
sugar. Boil slowly fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; 
take from the fire, and beat until nearly cold. Flavor and 
pour into a mold dipped in cold water. Sago blanc-mange 



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'.'J 



D OMES TIC CO OKER Y. 




Corn-starch Blanc-mange. — One quart of milk, four tabic 
spoonfuls of corn-starch, wet with a little water, three eggs, 
whites and yelks beaten separately, one cupful of sugar, a 
little salt, flavor with lemon extract. Heat the milk to boil- 
ing; stir in the corn-starch and salt, and boil together five 
minutes ; then add the yelks, beaten light, with the sugar ; 
boil two minutes longer, stirring all the while ; remove the 
mixture from the fire, and beat in the whipped whites while 
it is boiling hot. Pour into a mold wet with cold water, 
and set in a cold place. Eat with sugar and cream. 

Chocolate Blanc-mange. — Heat a quart of milk ; stir in 
a cupful of sugar and half a package of soaked gelatine; 
strain through flannel ; add three large spoonfuls of grated 
chocolate ; boil ten minutes, stirring all the time. When 
nearly cold, beat until it begins to stiffen. Flavor with 
vanilla ; whip up once, and put into a wet mold. It will be 
firm in six or eight hours. 

Neapolitan Blanc-mange. — Dissolve one-third of a box oi 
gelatine, and stir into one quart of milk. Add three-fourths 
of a cupful of sugar. As soon as the gelatine is thoroughly 
dissolved, remove from the fire, and divide into three parts. 
Flavor one with vanilla ; color another with the beaten yelk 
of one egg ; color the third with grated chocolate. Set 
away, and when quite cold and a little stiff, pour into a 
mold — first the white, then the yellow, and last the brown. 

Peach Meringue. — Put on to boil a scant quart of new milk, 
omitting half a teacupful, with which moisten two table- 
spoonfuls of corn-starch. When the milk boils, add corn- 
starch, stir constantly, and when it commences to thicken, 
remove from the fire ; add one tablespoonful of perfectly 
sweet butter ; let cool ; then beat in the yelks of three eggs 
until the custard seems light and creamy; add one-half tea- 
cupful of fine sugar ; cover the bottom of a well-buttered 
baking-dish with ripe, juicy peaches, that have been pared, 



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CREAMS, JELLIES, AND LIGHT DESSERTS. 177 

stoned, and halved ; sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of sugar 
over the fruit, pour the custard over gently, and bake in a 
quick oven twenty minutes ; draw it out, and cover with the 
well-beaten whites of the three eggs ; sprinkle a little fine 
sugar over the top, and set in the oven until brown. Eat 
warm with sauce, or cold with cream. 

Charlotte Russe. — Dissolve half a box of gelatine in cold 
water. Beat the yelks of four eggs with two cupfuls of 
white sugar. Whip one quart of sweet cream very stiff, 
add flavoring, then the yelks and sugar, and blend all the 
ingredients. Add the whites, turn into a bowl lined with 
sponge cake or lady-fingers, and set away to cool. 

Charlotte Russe, No. 2. — Two tablespoonfuls gelatine soaked 
in a little cold milk two hours ; two coffeecupfuls rich cream ; 
one teacupful milk. Whip the cream stiff in a large bowl 
or dish ; set on ice. Boil the milk and pour gradually over 
the gelatine until dissolved, then strain ; when nearly cold 
add the whipped cream, a spoonful at a time. Sweeten with 
pulverized sugar and flavor with vanilla. Line a dish with 
lady-fingers or sponge cake ; pour in the cream and set in a 
cool place to harden. 

Chocolate Charlotte Russe. — Soak in cold water one ounce 
of isinglass or of gelatine ; shave down three ounces of the 
best chocolate, without spice or sugar, and mix it gradually 
into one pint of cream, adding the soaked isinglass ; set the 
cream, chocolate, and isinglass over the fire in a porcelain 
kettle, and boil slowly till the isinglass is dissolved, and the 
whole well mixed ; take it off the fire and let it cool ; have 
ready eight yelks of eggs and four whites beaten together 
until very light ; stir them gradually into the mixture with 
half a pound of powdered sugar ; simmer the whole, but do 
not let it boil ; then take it off, and whip to a strong froth ; 
line the molds with sponge cake, fill with the paste, and set 
them on ice. 





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178 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



Figs a la Genevieve. — Dissolve two ounces of best sugar 
in half a pint of cold water in an enameled stewpan, with 
half the very thin rind of a large lemon ; when this is done, 
put into it half a pound of Turkey figs, and put the stew- 
pan over a moderate fire, so that the figs may stew very 
slowly ; when quite soft, add one glassful of common port 
or any other wine, and the strained juice of half a lemon ; 
serve them cold for dessert. About two hours or two hours 
and a half is the average time for stewing the figs, and the 
flavor may be varied by using orange peel and juice in- 
stead of lemon, and by boiling two or three bitter almonds 
in the sirup. 

Biscuit Glace. — Make a quart of rich boiled custard, flavor 
it with vanilla, and let it cool. Then mix with it a quart of 
grated pineapple or mashed peaches. Stir them well to- 
gether, and add enough sugar to allow for the loss in freez- 
ing. Freeze in the usual way, stirring in a pint of cream, 
whipped, when it is beginning to set in the freezer. Partly 
fill little paper cases with the mixture, and smooth the tops 
nicely. Place them carefully in the cleaned and dried freezer, 
and let them remain embedded in ice for several hours. 
Sometimes the cases are filled with pistachio or chocolate 
ice-cream, in which case blanched almonds are laid over the 
top, when they are served. Or they may be filled with 
frozen whipped cream, and served with a spoonful of som« 
bright sherbet upon the top of each. 




MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



XIII.— CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 

best materials requisite for cake-making ; what they 
should be; weighing and measuring ingredients; how 
to mix cake; fruits and flavors for cake; how to bake 
cake; how to test it; how to keep it; how to ice it. 
ninety-seven recipes for cakes. 

IN cake-making it is absolutely essential that the best 
materials be employed. Stale eggs, strong butter, musty 
flour, or common sugar are not so much as to be 
thought of in this connection. The idea that such refuse 
" will do for cooking " is most unworthy. When a luxury, 
such as cake, is attempted, the maker should certainly be 
willing to luxuriate in acceptable ingredients. 

Flour for cake should be white and dry. It should always 
be carefully sifted. Sugar should be white, dry, and free 
from lumps. Eggs and butter should be sweet and fresh ; 
the milk rich and pure. Fruit and extracts must be of the 
best. The weighing and measuring of ingredients must be 
accurately done. Guessing at quantities has spoiled many 
a cake. 

For mixing cake, an earthen or wooden dish and a 
wooden spoon are requisite. Butter and sugar should be 
beaten together to a cream before using. Butter may be 
softened for this purpose, if too hard to manage readily, but 
it must not be melted. Whites and yelks of eggs must be 
beaten separately, until there is no stringiness visible, and 
the froth can be taken up on a spoon. Beat eggs in a broad, 
shallow dish, and in a cool place. It is well to lay the eggs 
in cold water for an hour before beating them, as they will 
beat the lighter for such treatment. Sweet milk is best for 

17? 





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solid cake ; sour milk, for light cake. The two should never 
be mixed. 

Baking-powder should be mixed dry through the flour. 
Soda and cream of tartar should be dissolved in milk. 
Flavoring extracts, fruit, and spices must be added the last 
thing, and fruit should always be well sprinkled with flour 
before it is put in the dough. Currants and such fruit 
should be washed, picked over, and dried before using. 
Almonds should be blanched by pouring boiling water over 
them till they pop from their skins. Cake should be beaten 
as little as possible after the flour has been added. When 
it requires long baking, the bottom and sides of the pan 
should be lined with paper well buttered. This will insure 
the easy turning out of the cake when done. 

Much of the success in cake-baking depends on the heat- 
ing of the oven. If the oven is very hot when the cake 
goes in, it will bake on top before it becomes light. If the 
oven is too cool, it will rise and fall again before done. If 
the top of the cake browns too fast, cover it with thick 
paper. Try it by inserting a broom-splinter or knitting- 
needle in the thickest part of the cake, and if nothing ad- 
heres when it is drawn out, it is done. Turn out of the tins 
at once, taking care not to expose the cake to draft. 

Cake should be kept in earthen pans or crocks, or tin 
boxes, but never in wooden boxes or drawers. It will keep 
better for being wrapped in a cloth, and more than is needed 
should not be cut. 

Cake that is to be frosted should be baked in pans with 
perpendicular sides. The icing should be put on as soon 
as the cake is removed from the oven. This will insure its 
drying smooth and hard. 

RECIPES. 

Loaf Dutch Cake. — Take one cupful of light bread dough, 
one egg, sugar and salt to taste, half a teaspoonful of soda, 



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181 



half a pound of raisins, and, if desired, a little butter and 
nutmeg ; work all together very smooth ; let the dough rise 
about half an hour, and bake as bread. 

Bread Cake. — Two coffeecupfuls of bread dough, two tea- 
cupfuls of sugar, two eggs, one teacupful of butter, two tea- 
spoonfuls essence of lemon, one nutmeg, a teaspoonful each 
of cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, a wineglass of brandy, 
and a coffeecupful of raisins. Let it rise before baking 

Cinnamon Bun. — Put one pint of milk on to boil and mix 
a cupful of butter in a little lukewarm water ; add a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and half an yeast cake dissolved in luke- 
warm water ; add two quarts of sifted flour; mix all together, 
and let it stand over night till morning. Now beat two 
eggs and half a cupful of sugar until light, and mix it with 
the dough ; use just flour enough on the board to keep the 
dough from sticking ; roll the dough out into a sheet one- 
fourth of an inch in thickness ; spread a little butter, and 
sprinkle a little sugar on it, then some pulverized cinnamon, 
a few currants or chopped raisins. Now roll the sheet up 
into one long roll and cut in pieces about one inch thick ; a 
sharp knife must be used for this purpose ; put the pieces in 
a baking-pan, the cut side or end downward, and let them 
stand in a warm place for an hour, when they will be ready 
for the oven, which must be moderately heated. 

Soft Molasses Cake. — Into one pint of molasses, put one 
tablespoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one 
tablespoonful of butter ; add one teaspoonful of soda and 
two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar in one-half cupful of milk, 
one egg, and two and a half cupfuls of flour. Bake half an 
hour. 

Gingerbread. — One cupful of molasses, one cupful of but- 
ter, two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of sour milk, four eggs, 
three cupfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of ginger, and on« 
teaspoonful of soda. Mix well and bake quickiv. 



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Ginger Snaps. — Mix one pint of flour, one cupful of sugar, 
a piece of butter the size of two eggs ; three heaping table 
spoonfuls of ginger, and a little salt. Pour into this two 1 
cupfuls of heated molasses. Add flour enough to make it 
roll out thin. Bake three or four minutes. 

Cookies. — Six cupfuls of flour, two of sugar, one of buttei% 
one of milk, teaspoonful of soda, flavored with cinnamon 
or nutmeg, as you like. Roll thin, cut with biscuit-cutter, 
and bake quick. 

Small Sugar Cakes. — One heaping teacupful of sugar ; 
three-quarters teacupful of butter ; one-quarter teacupful 
sweet milk ; two eggs, well beaten ; two teaspoonfuls cream 
tartar ; one teaspoonful soda, dissolved in hot water ; use 
flour sufficient to enable you to roll out the dough ; one 
saltspoonful salt, nutmeg and cinnamon to taste. Cut into 
round cakes and bake quickly. 

Knickerbocker Cakes. — Beat half a pound of fresh butter to 
a cream ; add half a pound of powdered sugar, three-quarters 
of a pound of sifted flour, a tablespoonful of orange-flower 
water, and one of brandy, and four ounces of washed cur- 
rants ; add five well-beaten eggs, and beat the mixture until 
very light. Line some shallow cake-tins with buttered 
paper, pour in the mixture until they are half full, and bake 
in a quick oven. 

Scotch Wafers. — Take one pound of sugar, half a pound 
of butter, one pound of flour, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of 
cinnamon. Roll thin and bake quickly. 

Shrewsbury Cakes. — Mix a pound of flour and a half 
pound of butter ; stir in a pound of brown sugar and two 
tablespoonfuls of cinnamon. Mix all thoroughly into a 
paste with three eggs, roll very thin, using as little flour as 
possible, and bake in a quick oven. 



CAKES AND CAKE-&AKWG. 



183 



Soft Cookies. — One egg, two cupfuls of sugar, two cupfuls 
of cream, one even teaspoonful of soda, salt and flavor to 
taste. Flour to stiffen so they will drop from the spoon ; leave 
a space between them, as they spread in baking. 

Apees. — One cupful of butter, one large cupful of sugar, 
three eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of 
cream tartar, and flour enough to roll out thin. Bake 
quickly. 

Cinnamon Cakes. — Take six ounces of butter, a pound of 
fine, dry flour, three-quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, 
and a dessertspoonful of pounded cinnamon. Make these 
ingredients into a firm paste with three eggs, or four, if 
needed. Roll it, not very thin, and cut out the cakes with 
a tin shape. Bake them in a very gentle oven from fifteen 
to twenty minutes, or longer, should they not be done quite 
through. 

Lemon Cakes. — Lemon cakes can be made on the above 
recipe by substituting for the cinnamon the rasped or grated 
rinds of two lemons, and the strained juice of one, when its 
acidity is not objected to. 

Seed Cakes. — Two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, 
fourteen ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of caraway 
seed, half a pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of saleratus. 
Rub the butter, sugar, and flour together, then add all the 
other ingredients ; knead all well together into a smooth 
dough ; roll it out quite thin, cut with a round cutter, place 
the cakes on tins, and bake in a moderate oven. 

Walnut Cakes. — One pound of sugar, six eggs, three tea- 
spoonfuls of yeast-powder, half a pound of butter, flour to 
make a dough, and one cupful of walnut kernels ; bake in a 
moderate oven. 

Jumbles. — Three-fourths of a cupful of butter, one and a 
half cupfuls of sugar, three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of 



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milk, flour enough to make it roll, and a teaspoonful of bale 
ing-powder ; roll ; sprinkle with granulated sugar and genti) 
roll it in ; cut out, with a hole in centre, and bake. 

Currant Jumbles. — One pound each of flour and powdered 
loaf sugar, half a pound each of- butter and currants, eight 
eggs, brandy to taste ; cut out as in plain jumbles and bake 
on tins. 

Cocoanut Cookies. — One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of 
sugar, two cupfuls of prepared or grated cocoanut, two 
eggs, flour enough to make a stiff batter, and one teaspoon- 
ful of soda ; drop on buttered paper in pans. 

Doughnuts. — Two teacupfuls of sugar, three eggs, one and 
a half teacupfuls of buttermilk or sour milk, two teaspoon- 
fuls of saleratus, one teaspoonful of salt, six tablespoonfuls 
of melted lard, flour enough to roll out nicely ; boil or fry 
in lard enough to cover them. If not well covered in the 
cooking they will be tough. 

Raised Doughnuts. — One pint of sweet milk, one half pint 
of lard, one pint of sugar, three eggs. Mix soft at night, 
using the milk, one-half the sugar and lard, and one-half 
pint of yeast. In the morning, add the rest with the eggs, 
one nutmeg, two tablespoonfuls of whisky, and a little 
soda. Knead well, and allow to rise. When light, roll out 
thin, and after cutting, let rise again before frying. One- 
half beef suet and one-half lard is better to fry them in than 
all lard. 

Crullers. — Two cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of butter, 
one-half cupful of milk, two eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, 
two of cream tartar. Roll out, and cut according to fancy, 
and boil in fat. 

French Straws. — Mix well eight eggs, ten ounces of sugar, 
and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon and nutmeg with flo".r 
enough to form a dough ; beat the eggs very thick and add 



CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 



185 



the sugar, spices, and flour ; knead well, and roll to about 
half an inch thick ; cut in strips, give each a twist, and boil 
them in plenty of lard to a rich yellow ; sift sugar on when 
cook 

Love Knots. — Five cupfuls of flour, two of sugar, one of 
butter, a piece of lard the size of an egg, two eggs, three 
tablespoonfuls of sweet milk, half a teaspoonful of soda; rub 
the butter, sugar, and flour together fine, add the other in- 
gredients, roll thin, cut in strips one inch wide and five 
inches long, lap across in true-love knots, and bake in a 
quick oven. 

One, Two, Three, Four Cake. — One cupful of butter, two cup- 
fuls of sugar, three cupfuls of flour, four eggs ; rub well to- 
gether, and add some milk or cream, with one teaspoonful 
of soda and two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar ; flavor 
with grated lemon rind and juice ; bake carefully in a quick 
oven. 

Tea Cake. — Three and a half cupfuls of flour, two of sugar, 
one of butter, four eggs, a teaspoonful of soda in a table- 
spoonful of milk or wine, and a half grated nutmeg. Bake 
carefully in quick oven. 

Tumbler Cake. — Five turablerfuls of flour, three of sugar, 
two of butter, four eggs, one of milk, one pint and a half of 
raisins, stoned, one nutmeg, one teaspoonful of allspice, a 
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk. Bake in deep pan 
with a hot oven. 

Cider Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of butter, 
five eggs, one and one-half cupfuls of cider, with one tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in it ; spices or nutmeg to taste ; 
four and one-half cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of fruit. Bake 
quickly. 

Puff Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar, one of butter, one of 
sweet milk, three of flour, three eggs, one and one-half tea- 
spoonfuls of yeast powder, extract of lemon. Bake quickly. 



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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



Finafore Cake. — One cupful of butter, three half cupfuls 01 
sugar, three half cupfuls of flour, one-half cupful of corn- 
starch, one-half cupful of milk, four eggs, one teaspoonful o. 
cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful of soda, and a pinch 
of salt. Flavor to taste. 

Cork Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar, two-thirds of a cupfu' 
of butter, three eggs, one cupful of war m milk, three cupfuls 
of flour, a teaspoonful of baking-powder, and a half pound 
of currants. Use the whites of two of the eggs for icing 
and put the yelks into the cake 

Poor Mall's Cake. — One cupful of cream, one of sugar, two 
of flour, one egg, one teaspoonful of soda, and two of crearp 
tartar. 

Cup Cake. — One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of sugar, 
half a cupful of molasses, one teaspoonful of soda, two of 
gream tartar in half a cup of milk, two eggs, and two and 
a half cups of flour. 

Moravian Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of but- 
ter, five eggs, two cupfuls of flour, half a cupful of sour milk, 
one teaspoonful of cream tartar, and half a teaspoonful of 
soda. Flavor with a little grated nutmeg and a teaspoonful 
of vanilla. 

Silver Cake. — Whites of twelve eggs, five cupfuls of flour, 
three cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of butter, one and one- 
half cupfuls of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two tea- 
spoonfuls of cream tartar, one teaspoonful of almond 
extract. 

Gold Cake. — Substitute the yelks for whites of eggs, and 
flavor with vanilla, then make it same as preceding recipe. 

Lincoln Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar, half a cupful of but- 
ter, two eggs, one cupful of cream or sour milk, three cup- 
fuls of flour, one teaspoonful of cream tartar, half a tea- 
spoonful of soda, and one teaspoonful of essence ol lemon 



CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 



187 



Washington Cake. — One pound of flour, one pound of 
sugar, half a pound of butter, five eggs, one pound of raisins, 
ont cupful of brandy and water, one teaspoonful of soda, two 
of cream tartar. 

Pound Cake. — One pound of butter, one pound of sugar, 
-one pound of flour, and eight eggs. Bake one hour. 

White Pound Cake. — Beat to a cream one pound of sugar 
and one-half pound of butter ; two teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder in one pound of flour; whites of sixteen eggs beaten 
very stiff and added last. Cover with frosting before it 
cools. 

Sponge Cake. — Five eggs, half a pound of sugar, quarter 
pound of flour, juice and rind of half a lemon. Beat yelks of 
eggs, sugar, and lemon together till light ; add half the 
beaten whites, then half the flour, the balance of the whites 
and balance of flour. Avoid beating after the ingredients 
are all together. 

Almond Sponge Cake. — Take half a pound of loaf sugar ; rub 
the rind of a lemon on a few of the lumps, and crush the 
whole to a powder ; separate the whites from the yelks of 
five eggs, beat the yelks, and add the sugar gradually ; then 
beat the whites to a stiff froth ; add it to the dish, and sift in 
flour enough to make a batter; add a tablespoonful o»f 
essence of almonds ; butter and paper a tin, pour in the mix 
ture until the tin is two-thirds full, and bake one hour in a 
moderate oven. The bottom of the tin may be studded with 
small pieces of almonds. 

Cream Sponge Cake. — Beat together a cupful of sugar and 
che yelks of three eggs. Add a half teaspoonful of soda, 
a teaspoonful of cream tartar, a cupful of flour, and the whites 
of the eggs. Bake in three layers, and put between them 
the following filling : One egg, a half cupful of cream, 3 
cupful of sugar, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut 
Boil tiil like a cream, and when coid flavor to taste. 



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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



SllOW Cake. — Take one pound of arrowroot, quarter of a 
pound of powdered white sugar, half a pound of butter, the 
whites of six eggs, flavoring to taste. Beat the butter to a 
cream ; stir in the sugar and arrowroot gradually, at the 
same time beating the mixture ; whisk the whites of the 
eggs to a stiff froth ; add them to the other ingredients, and 
beat well for twenty minutes ; flavor with essence of almond, 
vanilla, or lemon, as may be preferred ; pour into a buttered 
mold or tin, and bake in a moderate oven. 

Spice Cake. — One cupful each of butter and cold water, 
three cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of sugar, three eggs, one 
teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon, 
one-fourth pound each of currants and raisins. 

Spice Cake, No. 2. — One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of 
sugar, four eggs, a teaspoonful of cream tartar, half a tea- 
spoonful of soda, half a cupful of sour milk, one cupful of 
molasses, three cupfuls of flour, a teaspoonful of ground 
cloves, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls of 
ginger, one nutmeg, and a small pinch of Cayenne pepper. 

Coffee Cake. — One cupful of brown sugar, one cupful of 
butter, one cupful of strained coffee, one cupful of molasses, 
three eggs well beaten, one pound of raisins, two cupfuls of 
flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Wine Cake. — Beat to a cream half a cupful of butter with 
two full cups of powdered sugar ; add the yelks of four 
eggs, and half a glass of sherry wine ; beat till very light ; 
add half a cupful of cream with a pinch of soda in it ; beat 
two minutes, and stir in very quickly the whites of the eggs, 
three and a half cupfuls of prepared flour, and a little grated 
nutmeg. 

Fig Cake. — One cupful butter, two and a half cupfuls 
sugar, one cupful of milk, six cupfuls of flour, three tea- 
spoonfuls baking-powder, whites of sixteen eggs, and, at the 



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last, one and a quarter pounds of figs, cut and floured. 
Bake well but do not burn. 

Walnut Cake. — One coffeecupful of sugar, two of raisins 
(stoned and chopped), one cupful and a half of flour, half a 
cupful of butter, half a cupful of sweet milk, three eggs, 
two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, half a nutmeg grated, 
one teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla, one cup heaping full of 
nuts, which must be cracked and picked, before anything 
else is done to the cake. Bake slowly, with a buttered 
paper in the bottom of the tin. 

Hickoryimt Cake. — One pound of flour, three-quarters of a 
pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, half a pint of milk, 
five eggs, two quarts of hickorynuts, one teaspoonful of 
soda, and two of cream tartar. 

Cocoanut Cake. — One pound of grated cocoanut, one pound 
of sugar, one-half pound of butter, six eggs, three-quarters 
of a pound of flour. Flavor to taste. 

New Year's Cake. — One and a quarter pound of raisins, 
seeded, one and a quarter pounds of currants, half a pound 
of sliced citron, half a pound of butter, half a pound of 
brown sugar, half a pound of flour, five eggs, half a tumbler- 
ful of brandy, half a bottle of rose-water, one teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, two of cloves, two of mace, and a grated nut- 
meg. 

Currant Cake. — One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of pow- 
dered sugar, four eggs, half a cupful of sweet milk, three 
cupfuls of prepared flour, half a nutmeg grated, and half a 
pound of currants washed, dried, and dredged with flour. 

Citron Cake. — Six eggs, beaten light and the yelks strained; 
two cupfuls of sugar, three-quarters of a cupful of butter, 
two and one-half cupfuls of prepared flour, or enough to 
make good pound cake batter. With some brands you may 
need three cupfuls ; one-half pound of citron cut in thin 





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shreds; juice of an orange, and one teaspoonful of grated 
peel. Cream the butter and sugar ; add the yelks, the 
whites, and flour by turns, then the orange, and lastly, the 
citron, dredged with flour. Beat all up hard, and bake in 
two loaves. 

Plum Cake. — Two and a half pounds of raisins, two and a 
half pounds of currants, one pound of citron, one pound of 
butter, one pound of sugar, ten eggs, one pound of flour, 
one-half pint of brandy, and a little molasses. 

Fruit Cake. — Take of butter two cupfuls ; sugar, four cup- 
fuls ; molasses, one cupful ; sour milk, two cupfuls ; flour, 
eight cupfuls ; eggs, eight ; soda, one tablespoonful ; cloves, 
two tablespoonfuls ; cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls ; raisins, 
two pounds ; currants, two pounds ; almonds, one pound ; 
citron, half a pound ; two nutmegs ; two lemons cut fine ; 
bake four hours. 

Wedding Cake. — One pound of powdered sugar, one pound 
of butter, one pound of flour, twelve eggs, one pound of cur- 
rants well washed and dredged, one pound of raisins, 
seeded and chopped, one-half pound of citron cut in slips, 
one tablespoonful of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls of nutmeg, 
one teaspoonful of cloves, one wineglass of brandy. Cream 
the butter and sugar, add the beaten yelks of the eggs, and 
stir all well together before putting in half of the flour. The 
spice should come next, then the whipped whites stirred in 
alternately with the rest of the flour, lastly the brandy. 
The above quantity is for two large cakes. Bake at least 
two hours in deep tins lined with well-buttered paper. The 
icing should be laid on stiff and thickly. Bake this well, and, 
if kept in a cool, dry place, it will not spoil in two months. 
Test the cakes well, and be sure they are quite done before 
taking them from the oven. 

Black Cake. — One pound of browned flour, one pound of 
brown sugar, one pound of citron, two pounds of currants, 



CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 



191 



three pounds of stoned raisins, three-quarters of a pound of 
butter, one teacupful of molasses, two teaspoonfuls of mace, 
two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cloves, one 
teaspoonful of soda, twelve eggs. 

Farmers' Fruit Cake. — Three cupfuls of dried apples, two 
cupfuls of molasses, one cupful of butter, one cupful of 
brown sugar, one pound of raisins, one quarter pound of 
citron, two eggs, one lemon (both juice and rind), two 
teaspoonfuls of soda, one pound and small cup of flour. 
Soak the apples over night, chop fine, and boil till done in 
the molasses and one cupful of the water they were soaked 
in. Flavor with nutmeg, cinnamon, and a very little cloves. 
Bake three hours. 

Chocolate Cake. — One cupful butter, two cupfuls sugar, two 
and one-half cupfuls flour, five eggs, one cupful sour milk, 
one teaspoonful soda, dissolved in a little boiling water ; 
one-half cake Baker's chocolate, grated and put in the cake 
before stirring in the flour, with one teaspoonful of vanilla. 
Bake in jelly tins in four layers. 

Chocolate Cake, No. 2. — One cupful of butter, two cupfuls 
of sugar, three cupfuls of flour, half cupful sweet milk, 
half teaspoonful soda, one teaspoonful of cream tartar, 
seven eggs. Bake in layers, and put between the layers the 
following filling : Quarter of a pound of Baker's best 
vanilla chocolate, one gill of sweet milk, one egg, sugar 
to taste. Scald the gill of milk and the chocolate together ; 
beat one egg thoroughly, and stir it in ; add sugar and 
vanilla to taste. 

Chocolate Cake, No. 3. — Two cupfuls of sugar, one of but- 
ter, five eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, a teaspoonful 
of cream tartar, half a cupful of sour milk. Grated nutmeg 
and vanilla. Bake in layers, and put between the layers the 
following filling : One cupful of Baker's chocolate, grated, 
and a small cupful of sugar. Put in a dry bowl, and stand 



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the bowl in a pan of boiling water. Stir until the h* <t vf 
the bowl dissolves the chocolate and sugar into a thicv*: 
paste. Add a tablespoonful of clear table sirup and two 
eggs well beaten. Let this cook in the boiling water abou 1 
ten minutes, then add two teaspoonfuls of vanilla. 

Jelly Cake. — Beat three eggs well, the whites and yelks, 
separately ; take a cupful of fine white sugar, and beat that 
in well with the yelks, and a cupful of sifted flour, stirred in 
gently ; then stir in the whites, a little at a time, and a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder and one tablespoonful of milk ; 
pour it in three jelly-cake plates, and bake from five to ten 
minutes in a well-heated oven, and when cold spread with 
currant jelly, and place each layer on top of the other and 
sift powdered sugar on the top. 

Jelly Roll. — Add one cupful of powdered sugar and one 
cupful of flour to three well-beaten eggs; stir well, and add 
one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of 
saleratus dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of water ; bake in 
two pie-pans ; spread as evenly as possible ; as soon as done, 
turn the cake, bottom side up, on to a dry towel ; spread it 
evenly with jelly, roll up quickly, and wrap closely in the 
towel. 

Peach Cake. — Bake sponge cake in layers ; cut peaches in 
very thin slices, and spread upon the cake ; sweeten, flavor, 
and whip some sweet cream, and spread over each layer 
and over the top. 

Pineapple Cake. — One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of 
sugar, one cupful milk, three cupfuls of flour, whites of six 
eggs and yelks of four, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder 
well mixed through flour; bake in jelly-cake pans; grate a 
pineapple ; sprinkle with sugar, spread between the layers ; 
pineapple jam may be substituted ; frost the outside ; 
beat two tablespoonfuls of the pineapple into the frosting. 



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Conoanut Cake. — Two eggs, one cupful white sugar, one- 
half a cupful sweet milk, one-quarter cupful of butter, one 
and one-half cupfuls of flour, one and one-half teaspoonfuls 
baking-powder. Bake in a moderate oven in pans one inch 
deep. To prepare the desiccated cocoanut, beat the wmites 
of two eggs to a stiff froth, add one cupful of pulverized 
sugar and the cocoanut, after soaking it in boiling milk. 
Spread the mixture between the layers of cake and over 
the top. 

White Mountain Cake. — Make the cake with one pound of 
flour, one pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, six eggs, 
one cupful of milk, one small teaspoonful of saleratus dis- 
solved in the milk. Bake four thin cakes in flat pie plates ; 
fros> each of these cakes, laying one on another. When 
all are done, even the edges with a knife and frost the sides. 
Use the following frosting preparation : Beat to a standing 
froth the whites of four eggs made thick with sifted, refined 
sugar, and add the sugar and juice of one lemon. 

Delicate Cake. — Two cupfuls of pulverized sugar, half a. 
cupful of butter, three cupfuls of flour, nearly three-fourths 
of a cupful of milk, whites of eight eggs, half a teaspoonful 
of cream tartar, one-fourth teaspoonful soda. This may be 
baked in jelly cake tins and put together with icing. 

Cream Cake. — Take two cupfuls of sugar, two-thirds of a 
cupful of butter, one cupful milk, one teaspoonful of soda, 
one and a half teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, two and a 
half cupfuls of flour, three eggs. Make the custard for the 
cake with one cupful of milk, and one teaspoonful of corn- 
starch dissolved in it, and brought to a boiling heat, with the 
yelk of one egg dropped in to color it. Flavor with lemon 
or vanilla ; let it cool. Bake your cake in round pie-tins ; 
use just enough batter in the tin so that when they are 
baked two of them put together will make one proper 
sized cake. Make the custard first, and let it cool ; put the 
13 



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cakes together when they are warm, with plenty or uutrtcud 
between them. 

Orange Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar, one of butter, five. 
eggs, half a cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of cream 
tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda, and two cupfuls of flou»\ 
Bake in four layers, and put between the layers the follow- 
ing filling : Beat two eggs, add to them a small cupful of 
sugar, heaping tablespoonful of butter. Simmer gently until 
it thickens. Remove from the fire, add the juice, grated 
pulp, and part of the rind of one large orange. 

Ice-Cream Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar, half a cupful of 
butter, three eggs, a cupful of milk, three cupfuls of flour, 
two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Bake in layers. Boil 
two small cupfuls of sugar and two-thirds of a cupful of 
water for ten minutes. Beat the white of an egg, and pour 
it over the mixture when it cooks a little. Beat till cold and 
stiff, and put between the layers. 

Union Cake. — Two-thirds of a cupful of butter, two cupfuls 
of sugar, one cupful of milk, three cupfuls of flour, four eggs, 
two-thirds of a teaspoonful of cream tartar, and one-third 
of a teaspoonful of soda. Divide into three equal parts, and 
into one part put a cupful of seeded raisins, two-thirds of a 
cupful of currants, and one-quarter pound of citron. Bake 
in three pans of the same size. Put icing, flavored with 
extract of lemon, between the layers and on the top and 
sides. 

Marble Cake. — Two cupfuls of white sugar, one cupful of 
butter, the whites of seven eggs, two teaspoonfuls of cream 
tartar, one of soda, three and a half cupfuls of flour, and half 
a cupful of milk. In another bowl three cupfuls of brown 
sugar, one of butter, one of molasses, the yelks of seven 
eggs, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two of allspice, one 
teaspoonful of cloves, half a nutmeg, half a cupful of milk, 
three cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of soda, and two of 



CAKES AXD CAKE-BAKING. 



195 



cream tartar. Arrange by dropping in first a tablespoonful 
of dark batter, then of the light, to imitate marble. 

Watermelon Cake. — White part : One-half cupful of butter, 
one cupful of powdered sugar, whites of three eggs, one- 
third of a cupful of sweet milk, half a tablespoonful of bak- 
ing-powder, and three half cupfuls of flour. — Red part : One- 
half cupful of butter, one cupful of red sugar, yelks of five 
eggs, one-third of a cupful of sweet milk, one tablespoonful 
of baking-powder, two cupfuls of flour, and half a pound of 
seeded raisins. Put the red part in the centre of the pan, 
with the white on the outside. Raisins may be introduced 
in the red part to represent seeds. Red sugar can be had 
of the confectioners. 

Neapolitan Cake. — Mix a yellow portion thus: Two cup- 
fuls of powdered sugar, one cupful of butter stirred to light 
cream with sugar; five eggs beaten well, with yelks and 
whites separately ; half a cupful of sweet milk, three cupfuls 
of prepared flour, a little nutmeg. 

Mix a pink and white portion thus : One pound of pow- 
dered sugar, one pound of prepared flour, half a pound of 
butter creamed with sugar, the whites of ten eggs whisked 
stiff. Divide this batter into two equal portions. Leave one 
white, and color the other with a very little prepared coch- 
ineal or with red sugar. 

Mix a brown portion thus : Three eggs beaten light, 
one cupful of powdered sugar, quarter cupful of butter 
creamed with sugar, two tablespoonfuls of cream, one heap^ 
ing cupful of prepared flour, two tablespoonfuls of vanilla 
chocolate grated and rubbed smooth in the cream, before it 
is beaten into the cake. 

Bake each of these parts in jelly-cake tins. The above 
quantities should make three cakes of each color. 

Mix a filling for the cake thus : Two cupfuls of sweet 
milk, two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, wet with milk, two 



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eggs, two small cupfuls of fine sugar. Heat the milk, stir it. 
the sugar and corn-starch, boil five minutes, and put in the 
eggs. Stir steadily until it becomes quite thick. Divide 
this custard into two parts. Stir into one two tablespoonfuls 
of grated chocolate and a teaspoonful of vanilla ; into the 
other, bitter almond. 

Prepare another filling thus : Whites of three eggs, 
whisked stiff, one heaping cup of powdered sugar, juice and 
half the grated peel of one lemon. Whip all together well. 
Lay the brown cake as the foundation of the pile ; spread 
with the yellow custard; add the pink, coated with choco- 
late ; then add the white and yellow with the frosting be- 
tween them. Vary the order as fancy dictates. Cover the 
top with powdered sugar or with icing. 

Angel's Food. — Use the whites of eleven eggs, a scant pint 
of granulated sugar, a large half pint of flour, one teaspoonful 
of cream tartar (even full), and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Sift 
the flour four times, then measure ; add cream of tartar, and 
then sift again. Sift the sugar four times, then measure it. 
Beat the eggs to a stiff froth on a large dish, and on same 
dish add the sugar quickly and lightly ; add the flour in the 
same way, and last of all the vanilla. Put at once into a 
moderate oven, and bake forty minutes or more. Do not 
grease the pans. Turn upside down to cool, putting small 
blocks of wood under the edges that air may reach the cake. 

Macaroons. — Blanch half a pound of almonds with boiling 
water, and pound them to a smooth paste. Add a table- 
spoonful of essence of lemon, half a pound of powdered 
sugar, and the whites of two eggs. Work the paste well to- 
gether with the back of a spoon. Wet your hands, and roll 
them in balls the size of a nutmeg, and lay them an inch 
apart on a sheet of paper. Wet your finger, and press gently 
over the surface to make them shiny. Bake three-quarters; 
of an hour in a very moderate oven. 



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191 



Chocolate Macaroons. — Put three ounces of plain chocolate 
in a pan, and melt on a slow fire ; then work it to a thick 
paste with one pound of powdered sugar and the whites of 
three eggs ; roll the mixture down to the thickness of 
about one-quarter of an inch ; cut it in small, round pieces 
with a paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped ; butter a pan 
slightly, and dust it with flour and sugar in equal quanti- 
ties ; place in it the pieces of paste or mixture, and bake in 
,a hot but not quick oven. 

Cream Puffs. — Stir one-half pound.of butter into a pint of 
warm water, set it on the fire in a saucepan, and slowly 
bring it to a boil, stirring often. When it boils, put in three- 
quarters of a pound of flour, and let it boil one minute, stir- 
ring constantly. Take from the fire, and turn into a deep 
dish to cool. Beat eight eggs light, and whip into this cool 
paste, first the yelks, then the whites. Drop in great spoon- 
fuls on buttered paper so as not to touch or run into each 
other, and bake ten minutes. Split them, and fill with the 
following cream : One quart of milk, four tablespoonfuls ol 
corn-starch, two eggs, two cupfuls of sugar. Stir while boil- 
ing, and when thick, add a teaspoonful of butter. When 
cold, flavor. 

Kisses. — Beat the whites of foar eggs very stiff, add one- 
half pound of pulverized sugar, and flavor to taste. Beat 
until very light, then lay in heaps the size of an egg on 
paper. Place the paper on a piece of wood half an inch 
thick, and put in a hot oven. Make the surface shiny by 
passing over it a wet knife. Bake until they look yellowish, 
when they are done. 

Chocolate Kisses. — Beat stiff the whites of two eggs; beat in 
gradually one-half pound of powdered sugar. Scrape fine 
one and a half ounces of chocolate ; dredge with flour, mixing 
the flour well ; add this gradually to the eggs and sugar, stir- 
ring the whole very hard. Cover the bottom of a pan with 





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a&& 



white paper, and place on it spots of powdered sugar the 
size of half-dollars. Heap the mixture on these spots.. 
smooth with a broad knife, sift with powdered sugar, and 
bake quickly. 

Cocoanut Steeples. — One pound of powdered sugar ; one- 
half pound of grated cocoanut ; whites of five eggs. Whip 
the eggs as for icing, adding the sugar as you go on until it 
will stand alone, then beat in the cocoanut. Mold the mix- 
ture with your hands into small cones, and set these fat 
enough apart not to touch one another upon buttered paper 
in a baking-pan. Bake in a very moderate oven. 

Meringues. — Mix the whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth, with one pound of pulverized sugar, and flavored to 
the taste. Beat stiff, bake the same as macaroons, when 
light brown, slip them from the papers, and put the smooth 
sides together, with jelly between. 

Lady-fingers. — One-half pound pulverized sugar and six 
yelks of eggs, well stirred ; add one-fourth pound flour, 
whites of six eggs, well beaten. Bake in lady-finger tins, 
or squeeze through a bag of paper in strips two or three 
inches long. 

Lady-fingers, No. 2. — Rub half a pound of butter into a 
pound of flour ; to this add half a pound of sugar, the juice 
and grated rind of one large lemon, and, lastly, three eggs, 
the whites and yelks beaten separately, and the whites stirred 
in after all the other ingredients are well mixed together. 
This dough, if properly made, will be stiff enough to make 
rolls about the size of a lady's finger ; it will spread when 
in the oven, so that it will be of the right size and shape. 
If you wish them to be especially inviting, dip them in cho- 
colate icing after they are baked, and put two together. 
See that the icing is so hard that it will not run, and set the 
cakes on a platter in a cool room until the icing is firm. 



CAKES AND CAKE-BAKING. 



199 



Fclairs a la Creme. — Three-fourths pound flour, one pint 
water, ten eggs, one-half cupful butter. Put the water on 
the fire in a stewpan with the butter ; as soon as it boils 
■stir in the sifted flour ; stir well until it leaves the bottom 
and sides of the pan, when taken from the fire ; then add 
the eggs, one at a time. Put the batter in a bag of paper, 
and press out in the shape of fingers on a greased tin. 
When cold, fill with cream, prepared as follows : One and 
one-half pints of milk, two cupfuls sugar, yelks of five eggs, 
one tablespoonful butter, three large tablespoonfuls corn- 
starch, two teaspoonfuls extract vanilla. Frosted with choco- 
late, they are much improved in appearance and flavor. 

Icing for Cakes. — In making icing, use at least a quarter of 
a pound of pulverized sugar to the white of each egg ; if 
not stiff enough, add more sugar. Break the whites into a 
broad, cool dish, and throw in a small handful of sugar. 
Begin whipping it in with long, even strokes of the beater, 
adding the sugar gradually. Beat until the icing is smooth 
and firm, then add the flavoring. Spread it on the cake 
with a broad-bladed knife, dipped in cold water. If orna- 
mentation of the icing is desired, it may be done by affixing 
prepared leaves, flowers, etc., which can be had at the con- 
fectioners' stores or at their supply stores. To make letters, 
tracery, etc., for cakes, roll into a funnel shape a piece of 
thick, white paper; fill this with icing in the soft state, 
allowing it to drip out slowly from the small end of the 
paper cone. Apply this carefully, and allow it to harden. 

Orange Icing. — Whites of two eggs, one-half pound of 
pulverized sugar, and the juice of a large orange, treated 
as above. 

Lemon Icing. — Whites of two eggs, one-half pound of 
pulverized sugar, juice and part of the rind of one lemon. 

Chocolate Icing. — Whites of two eggs, one-half pound of 



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pulverized sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of grated choco 
late. 

Almond Icing. — The whites of three eggs, one cupful of 
pounded blanched almonds, three-quarters of a pound of 
pulverized sugar, and a little almond extract. 

Banana Icing. — Whites of two eggs, one-half pound of pul- 
verized sugar, and one banana finely crushed through it. 
This cake should be eaten the same day it is made, as the 
banana discolors over night. 

Cocoanut Frosting. — Whites of two eggs, one-half pound 
of pulverized sugar. Spread on the cake, then sprinkle 
thickly with grated cocoanut. This will make a whiter frost- 
ing than results from stirring in the cocoanut. 

Cooked Frosting. — One cupful of granulated sugar, wet 
with a little water. Let it boil without stirring until it be- 
gins to thicken. Beat the whites of two eggs very light 
Strain the boiled sugar into them slowly, beating all the 
time. Flavor to taste. 




MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 



XIV.— FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS, 

•ALUE OF FRESH FRUITS ON" THE TABLE; ABUNDANCE OF FRUITS; 
NUTRITIVE VALUE OF FRUITS; WHERE TO GATHER AND HOW 
TO STORE FRUITS. TWENTY-TWO RECIPES FOR SERVING FRESH 
FRUITS AND NUTS. 

FRESH fruits are a most delightful accessory to the 
table supply of both rich and poor. They are so great 
in variety, so rich in flavor, so beautiful in appearance, 
so healthful, and of so long continuance in most parts of the 
country, that it behooves every housekeeper to familiarize 
herself with the best methods of using fresh fruits to 
advantage. 

A few years ago each locality depended upon its own 
local crop of fruits. Now the railroads bring early fruits 
from the far South and late fruits from the far North, so 
that at the centres of population the several fruit seasons are 
delightfully prolonged. Nor are we restricted to our own 
country's production. Such are the facilities for rapid and 
safe communication from distant points, that the world lays 
her tribute of fruits, sweet and sound, at the door of the 
enlightened nations. 

Fruits do not take an important place as nutrients. They 
belong rather among the luxuries, and yet, as an agreeable 
stimulant to digestion, they occupy a front rank. In many 
conditions of health, some of the fruits are the only articles 
the invalid can enjoy, and their genial influences contribute 
greatly to the general improvement of a patient's appetite. 

Fruits intended for immediate use should be gathered 
early in the morning, while the coolness of the night dews 

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2l>2 

is upon them. They should be just ripe, neither overdone 
nor underdone, in nature's great process of preparing them 
for human food. Fruit for storage is best gathered at the 
middle of a dry day. It should be nearly ripe. If unripe, 
or overripe it will not keep well. A moist atmosphere, but 
not one positively damp, is best for the storing of fruit. An 
ordinary cellar does better than a dry storeroom. Fruit 
keeps better in the dark than in the light. 

All varieties of nuts belong to the albuminous fruits and 
are very nutritious, though the richer nuts are not easy 
of digestion owing to their oily properties. 

The supply of peanuts once came wholly from Africa, but 
our Southern States have so successfully cultivated this 
popular nut that we are now independent. The bulk of the 
supply is from Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee. 
During a single season the crop of Virginia rose to one 
million one hundred thousand bushels, of Tennessee, five 
hundred and fifty thousand bushels, and of North Carolina, 
one hundred and twenty thousand bushels. 

The Texas pecan is especially in demand. While a few 
years ago several barrels of pecans abundantly supplied the 
demand, carloads and invoices of one or two hundred bar- 
rels are not now uncommon. 

In the Eastern States hickory nuts are sufficiently plenti- 
ful to ship to New York half a dozen carloads a week when 
demanded. 

The chestnut is becoming scarcer every year, but their 
great popularity will probably prevent their total disappear- 
ance, as they are already being successfully cultivated, and 
it is expected that in a few years the cultivated nut will equal 
in quality the high-priced Italian chestnuts. 

RECIPES. 

Watermelons. — Wipe watermelons clean when they are 
taken from the ice. They should lie on ice for at least four 



FRESH IRUITS AND NUTS. 



203 



hours before they are eaten. Cut off a slice at each end of 
the watermelon, then cut through the centre ; stand on end 
on platter, and slice down, allowing each slice a part of the 
centre, or heart. 

Nutmegs, etc. — Wash nutmegs and muskmelons ; wipe 
dry ; cut in two ; shake out the seeds lightly, and put a 
lump of ice in each half. Eat with pepper and salt. A sil- 
ver spoon is a neat and pleasant article with which to eat 
small, ripe melons. 

Pineapples. — Slice on a slaw-cutter, or very thin with a 
knife ; mix with finely powdered sugar. Set on ice till ready 
to serve. 

Oranges are nice served whole, the skins quartered and 
turned down. Form in a pyramid with bananas and white 
grapes. 

Orange and Cocoanut. — A layer of oranges sliced, then 
sugar, then a layer of cocoanut, grated ; then another of 
oranges, and so on until the dish is full. This is by many 
known as Ambrosia. 

Sliced Peaches. — Peel and slice ripe peaches. Lay them in 
a dish with plenty of sugar for an hour or two, till tea time. 
Eat with cream. 

Stewed Peaches. — Make a sirup of sugar and water ; halve 
the peaches, leaving the stone in one half, and drop into 
sirup. Allow the whole to simmer slowly until fruit is ten- 
der; then remove fruit, and let sirup boil till thick; then pour 
over fruit and serve at once. 

Frosted Peaches. — Put half a cupful of water and the 
beaten whites of three eggs together; dip in each peach, 
using fine, large freestones, after you have rubbed off 
the fur with a clean cloth ; and then roll in powdered sugar. 
Set them on the stem end, upon a sheet of white paper, in 
a sunny window. When half dry, roll again in the sugar. 



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Expose to the sun and breeze until perfectly dry. Until 
ready to arrange them in the glass dish for table, keep in 
a cool, dry place. Decorate with green leaves. 

Fried Peaches. — Cut the peaches in two, and remove the 
stones. Dust a little flour on the side from which the stone 
is taken, and fry, only on that side, in a little butter. When 
done, add sugar and a little butter. 

Baked Apples. — Pare and core good, sound, tart apples. 
Fill them with sugar, butter, and a flavor of spice. Put a 
little water in the pan, and bake until the apples are 
thoroughly tender. 

Apple Sauce. — Pare, core, and slice nice, juicy apples that 
are not very sweet ; put them in a stewpan with a little 
grated lemon peel, and water enough to keep them from 
burning. Stew till soft and tender; mash to a paste, and 
sweeten well with brown sugar, adding a little butter and 
nutmeg. 

Apples with Lemon. — Make a sirup of sugar and water. 
Slice a lemon into it, and let boil until clear. Pare and core 
sound, tart apples, cut into quarters, and lay them carefully 
into the sirup ; let them cook gently until a straw can be 
run through them, taking care not to break them. Lay the 
pieces of apple in a glass dish, boil down the sirup, and 
when slightly cool, pour over the apples. 

Apple Float. — Pare, slice, and stew six large apples in as 
much water as will cover them ; when well done, press them 
through a sieve and sweeten highly with crushed sugar ; 
while cooling, beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, 
and stir into the apples ; flavor with lemon or vanilla ; serve 
with plenty of sweet cream. 

Transparent Apple. — Roil tart, ripe, and juicy apples in a 

little water; then strain through a fine cloth, and add a 

'pound of white sugar to a pint of juice. Boil till it jellies. 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS. 



205 



and then put into molds. It is very nice served with blanc- 
mange in saucers. 

Baked Pears. — Place in a stone jar, first a layer of pears, 
with their skins on, then a layer of sugar, then pears, and so 
on until the jar is full. Then put in as much water as it 
will hold. Bake three hours. 

Quinces. — Bake ripe quinces thoroughly; when cold, strip 
off the skins, place the quinces in a glass dish, and sprinkle 
them with white sugar ; serve with rich cream. 

Bananas and Cream. — Peel, slice, and heap up in a glass 
dessert-dish, and serve raw, with fine sugar and cream. 

Fried Bananas. — Cut the bananas into slices, and fry in a 
little butter. This makes a very rich dish. 

Stewed Rhubarb. — Carefully remove the outer stringy 
skin ; then cut in pieces an inch long, and simmer gently till 
tender in water and sugar, and the rind and juice of a lemon. 
When done add a bit of butter and nutmeg. 

Crystallized Fruit. — Pick out the finest of any kind of fruit ; 
leave in the stones ; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff 
froth ; lay the fruit in the beaten egg, with the stems 
upward ; drain them, and beat the part that drips off again ; 
select them out, one by one, and dip them into finely pow- 
dered sugar ; cover a pan with a sheet of fine paper, place 
the fruit on it, and set it in a cool place ; when the icing on 
the fruit becomes firm, pile them on a dish, and set them in 
a cold place. 

Candied Fruits. — Make a very rich sirup with one pound 
of granulated sugar to a gill of water. Heat over boiling 
water till the sugar is dissolved. Pare and halve fine, ripe, 
but solid peaches. Put a single layer of them in the sirup, 
in a shallow vessel ; cook slowly until clear; drain from the 
sirup, and put to dry in a moderately heated oven. When 
fairly dry they may be eaten at once; or, after drying 



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twenty-four hours, they may be packed for future use. 
Plums, cherries, and pears may be candied in the same 
manner. 

Nuts. — Almonds are inseparably joined with raisins in 
table service ; so for evening uses, hickory nuts and apples 
form a pleasant combination. All the harder-shelled nuts 
should be well cracked before they are served. With the 
softer-shelled, nut crackers should be furnished. Nut picks 
should always be at hand. 

Sweet almonds, which are used for dessert, are of seveial 
varieties. Those known as the Syrian, or Jordan almonds, 
are regarded as the best. Those with hard shells are gen^' 
erally richer in flavor than those with the soft. Certainly 
the harder shell offers the more effective protection. The 
skin of almonds is not easily digested. For use in cooking 
they should be blanched, but for table use this is not desir- 
able. Walnuts keep well and improve with age. Of the 
hickory-nut family, the shell-bark is considered best. These, 
too, are the better for age. 




MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 



XV.— JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 

FRUIT FOR JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES ', HOW PREPARED; 

proper sugar to use ; quantity of sugar needed j suitable 
preserving-kettles; what not to use; the fire; cans 
and jars; where stored; molding the jelly; the jelly- 
bag ; straining jelly ; covering jelly, forty-four recipes 
for jellies, jams, and preserves. 

TO insure success in preserving fruits, the first thing to 
be looked after is the fruit itself. This should be fully 
ripe, fresh, sound, and scrupulously clean and dry. It 
should be gathered in the morning of a sunny day, as it will 
then possess its finest flavor. Care should be taken to re- 
move all bruised or decayed parts. Allowing them to re- 
main will darken the sirup, and consequently impair the 
beauty of the preserves. Fruit requiring to be pared should 
be laid in water to preserve the color after the paring. The 
best sugar is the cheapest; indeed, there is no economy in 
stinting the sugar, either as to quality or proper quantity, 
for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and the preserves will 
not keep unless a sufficient proportion of sugar is boiled 
with the fruit. At the same time, too large a proportion of 
sugar will destroy the natural flavor of the fruit, and in all 
probability make fruit candy, instead of the result sought. 

The usual proportion in making preserves, is a pound of 
sugar to a pound of fruit. There are a few fruits which 
require more sugar. In making the sirup, use a small cup- 
ful of water to a pound of fruit. The sirup should always 
be boiled and strained before putting the fruit in. 

Fruit should be cooked in brass kettles, or those of bell- 
metal. Modern kettles, lined with porcelain, are much use^# 

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for this purpose. The kettle should be broad and shallow, 
so that there will be no necessity for heaping the fruit. 
Never use tin, iron, or pewter spoons, or skimmers, for pre- 
serves, as they will convert the color of red fruit into a 
dingy purple, and impart, besides, a very unpleasant flavor 

Great care should be taken not to place the kettle flat 
upon the fire, as this will be likely to burn at the bottom. 

Glass jars are much the best for preserves, as the condi- 
tion of the fruit can be observed more readily. Whatever 
jars are used, however, the contents should be examined 
every three weeks for the first two months, and if there are 
any signs of either mold or fermentation it should be boiled 
over again. Preserves should be stored in a cool, dry place, 
but not in one into which fresh air never enters. Damp has 
a tendency to make the fruit mold, and heat to make it 
ferment. 

A jelly-bag should be in every kitchen. It should be 
made of flannel, pointed at the bottom, so that the jelly will 
run out chiefly at one point. It is a good plan to sew a 
strong loop to the top of the bag, so that it may be hung 
upon a nail near the fire, that the juice of the fruit may run 
through gradually into a vessel below. The bag should not 
be squeezed with the hands, if you wish a very clear jelly. 
After the clear juice has been obtained, the remainder may 
be pressed, to make a veiy excellent, but inferior article of 
jelly or marmalade. 

Rinse the tumblers or bowls to be used in cold water 
just before filling with jelly or marmalade. When the jelly 
is cold, fit a circle of tissue-paper, dip it in brandy, and 
place it directly on the surface of the fruit. This simple 
precaution will save the housekeeper much annoyance by 
protecting the conserve from mold. Should the fungus form 
inside the upper cover of the glass, the inner will effectually 
shield the contents. Paste thick paper over the top of the 
Hass to exclude the air. 



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JELLIED, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 209 

RECIPES. 

Currant Jelly. — Never gather currants or other soft or 
small seed fruit immediately after a rain for preserving pur- 
poses, as they are greatly impoverished by the moisture 
absorbed. In this climate, the first week in July is usually 
considered the time to make currant jelly. Weigh the cur- 
rants without removing the stems ; do not wash them, but 
remove leaves and whatever may adhere to them ; to each 
pound of fruit allow half the weight of granulated or pure 
loaf sugar ; put a few currants into a porcelain-lined kettle. 
and press them with a potato-masher, or anything conven- 
ient, in order to secure sufficient liquid to prevent burning ; 
then add the remainder of the fruit and boil freely for twenty 
minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning ; take out 
and strain through a jelly-bag, putting the liquid into earthen 
or wooden vessels. When strained, return the liquid to the 
kettle, without the trouble of measuring, and let it boil 
thoroughly for a moment or so ; then add the sugar ; the 
moment the sugar is entirely dissolved, the jelly is done, 
and must be dished, or placed in glasses ; it will jelly upon 
the side of the cup as it is taken up, leaving no doubt as to 
the result. 

Currant Jelly, No. 2. — Take three quarts of fine, ripe, red 
currants, and four of white ; put them into a jar, tie paper 
over the top, and put them into a cool oven for three or four 
hours, or else into a pan of boiling water, or set them on 
the side of the range ; when they are thoroughly heated, 
strain through a jelly-bag. To every pint of juice, add one 
pound of granulated sugar, and boil from five to fifteen 
minutes ; turn while hot into wet tumblers. 

Currant Jelly without Cooking. — Press the juice from the 
currants and strain it ; to every pint put a pound of fine white 
sugar ; mix them together until the sugar is dissolved ; thei» 





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put it in jars ; seal them and expose them to a hot sun for 
two or three days. 

Black Currant Jelly. — Boil the currants till the juice flows, 
then strain through a jelly-bag, and set it over the fire foi 
twenty minutes, after which add half a pound of sugar to a 
pound of juice, and boil for about ten minutes. 

White Currant Jelly. — Strip the fruit off the stems, and 
pound it in a clean wooden bowl. Drip the juice gently 
through a jelly-bag. Prepare a very pure, clear sirup of the 
best white sugar; allow a pint of juice to a pound of sugar; 
boil it ten minutes only. Put it in glass preserve-tumblers, 
cover with paper to fit exactly, and keep it dry and cool. 

Apple Jelly. — Take twenty large, juicy apples; pare and 
chop ; put into a jar with the rind of four large lemons, 
pared thin and cut in bits ; cover the jar closely, and set in 
a pot of boiling water ; keep water boiling all around it until 
the apples are dissolved ; strain through a jelly-bag, and 
mix with the liquid the juice of four lemons ; to one pint of 
mixed juice use one pound of sugar; put in kettle, and when 
the sugar is melted set it on the fire, and boil and skim 
about twenty minutes, or until it is a thick, fine jelly. 

Apple Jelly, No. 2. — Peel and core sour apples ; boil them 
in a very little water, and strain them through a jelly-bag 
Measure, and allow a pound of granulated sugar to a pint 
of juice. Mix the sugar and juice well together, and let it 
boil from five to ten minutes. Put it warm into glasses ; 
cut some white paper to fit the top, dip it in brandy, and lay 
on when the jelly is cool ; paste or tie thick paper over the 
glasses, and when cold put away in a dark, dry place. 

Crab-apple Jelly. — Wash and quarter Siberian crab-apples. 
Cover with cold water- and let cook until thoroughly tender. 
Strain through a jelly-bag, and to every pint of juice add 
one pound of sugar. Let cook until it will jelly A slighl 
flavoring of essence of cinnamon is an improvement. 



JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 



211 



Quince Jelly. — Take very ripe quinces ; peel and core, and 
boil in a little water till very soft ; drain off the juice 
through a coarse towel, add an equal measure of sugar, and 
. boil twenty minutes. 

Grape Jelly. — Mash the grapes thoroughly and strain 
out the juice. Add an equal measure of sugar, and boil 
twenty minutes. 

Barberry Jelly. — Pick the berries from the stalks, mash 
them, and boil fifteen minutes. Squeeze through a jelly- 
bag; allow a pound of white sugar to a pound of juice; 
melt the sugar in the juice, and boil half an hour. 

Raspberry Jelly. — Crush the raspberries and strain through 
a wet cloth. Add an equal measure of sugar, and boil from 
ten to twenty minutes. 

Apple Marmalade. — Pare, core, and slice two or three dozen 
tart, juicy apples; three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 
every pint of juice. Stew until tender in just enough cold 
water to cover them. Drain off the juice through a colan- 
der, and put into a preserving-kettle, stirring into it three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar for every pint of the liquid. 
Boil until it begins to jelly ; strain the juice of two lemons 
into it; put in the apples, and stew pretty fast, stirring 
almost constantly, until it becomes thick and smooth. If 
the apples are not entirely soft, rub them through the col- 
ander before adding them to the boiling sirup. 

Quince Marmalade. — Take very ripe quinces ; wash, pare 
and core them ; to each pound of fruit allow one pound of 
loaf sugar. Boil the parings and cores together, with water 
enough to cover them, till quite soft ; strain the liquid into 
the preserving-kettle with the fruit and sugar. Boil the 
whole over a slow fire, stirring frequently until the mass be- 
comes thick. 

Pear and Quince Marmalade. — Pare and core two dozen 
juicy pears and ten fine, ripe quinces. Add three-quarters 



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of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit and the juice o* 
three lemons. Throw them into cold water, and stew the 
parings and cores in a little water to make the sirup. When 
they have boiled to pieces, strain off the liquid ; when cold, 
put in the sliced fruit and bring to a fast boil. When the 
mass is thick and smooth, cook steadily for an hour or more, 
working with a wooden spoon to a rich jelly. 

Pineapple Marmalade. — Take ripe, juicy pineapples; pare, 
cut out the specks very carefully, and grate on a coarse 
grater all but the core. Weigh, and allow a pound of sugar 
to a pound of fruit. Cook from twenty minutes to half an 
hour. 

Orange Marmalade. — Take eighteen sweet, ripe oranges, six 
pounds best white sugar. Grate the peel from four of these 
and reserve it for the marmalade. The rinds of the others 
will not be needed. Pare the fruit carefully, removing the 
inner white skin as well as the yellow. Slice the orange ; 
remove the seeds ; put the fruit and grated peel in a porce- 
lain kettle, and boil steadily until the pulp is reduced to a 
smooth mass. Take from the fire, and put through a col- 
ander. Stir in six pounds of the best white sugar ; return 
to the fire, and boil fast, stirring constantly half an hour or 
until thick. 

Grape Marmalade. — Put green grapes into a preserving-pan 
with sufficient water to cover them. Put them on the fire, 
and boil until reduced to a mash ; put the pulp through a 
sieve which will strain out the seeds; to each pound of pulp 
add two pounds of the best loaf sugar, and boil to the con- 
sistence of a jelly. 

Peach Marmalade. — Select peaches which are quite ripe; 
pare and cut them in small pieces ; to every pound of fruit 
add one pound of sugar ; put the fruit and sugar into a pre- 
serving-kettle, and mash well together ; place it over the fire, 
and when it begins to boil, stir until it becomes quite thick. 



JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 



213 



Cherry Jam. — First stone and then weigh some freshly- 
gathered preserving cherries ; boil them over a brisk fire 
for an hour, keeping them almost constantly stirred from the 
bottom of the pan, to which they will otherwise be liable to 
stick and burn. Add for each pound of the fruit half a 
pound of good sugar roughly powdered, and boil quickly- 
for twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it rises. 

Blackberry Jam. — To four bowls of blackberries add four 
bowls of sugar; boil until it jellies. 

Raspberry Jam. — Mash the raspberries, and allow a pound 
•of sugar to a pound of fruit. Boil twenty minutes. A few 
■currants added to raspberry jam is considered by many a 
great improvement. 

Barberry Jam. — The barberries should be quite ripe, though 
they should not be allowed to hang until they begin to 
decay. Strip them from the stalks, throw aside such as are 
spotted, and for each pound of fruit allow eighteen ounces of 
well-refined sugar ; boil this, with one pint of water to every 
four pounds, until it becomes white and falls in thick 
.masses from the spoon ; then throw in the fruit, and keep it 
stirred over a brisk fire for six minutes only ; take off the 
scum, and pour it into jars or glasses. 

Strawberry Jam. — Use fine, scarlet berries ; weigh and boil 
them for thirty-five minutes, keeping them constantly- 
stirred ; add eight ounces of good sugar to the pound of 
fruit ; mix them well off the fire, then boil again quickly for 
twenty-five minutes. One pound of white currant juice 
added at the outset to four of the strawberries will greatly 
improve this preserve. 

White Currant Jam. — Boil together quickly for seven min- 
utes equal quantities of fine white currants, picked very care- 
fully, and of the best white sugar pounded and passed 
through a sieve. Stir the preserve gently the whole time, 



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and skim it thoroughly. Just before it is taken from the 
fire, throw in the strained juice of one good lemon to four 
pounds of the fruit. 

Damson Jam. — The fruit for this jam should be freshly 
gathered and quite ripe. Split, stone, weigh, and boil it 
quickly for forty minutes ; then stir in half its weight of 
good sugar roughly powdered, and when it is dissolved, 
give the preserve fifteen minutes additional boiling, keeping 
it stirred and thoroughly skimmed. 

Green Gage Jam. — Rub ripe green gages through a sieve ; put 
all the pulp into a pan with an equal weight of loaf sugar 
pounded and sifted. Boil the whole until sufficiently thick, 
and put into glasses. 

Preserved Peaches. — Weigh the peaches, and allow three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Throw 
about half the sugar over the fruit, and let it stand ovei 
night. In the morning drain the sirup off the fruit, add the 
rest of the sugar, and let that come to a boil. Put the 
peaches in, and let them boil until you can stick a straw 
through them. In cooking the peaches, put a few at a time 
only in the sirup to cook. 

Preserved Peaches, No. 2. — Weigh the fruit after it is pared 
and the stones extracted and allow a pound of sugar to every 
pound of peaches. Put the sugar in a preserving-kettle, and 
make the sirup; let it just boil ; lay the peaches in, and let 
them boil steadily until they are tender and clear. Take 
them out with a perforated skimmer and lay upon flat 
dishes, crowding as little as possible. Boil the sirup almost 
to a jelly, until it is clear and thick, skimming off all the 
scum. Fill the jars two-thirds full of the peaches, pour on 
the boiling sirup, and, when cold, cover with brandied 
tissue-paper, then with thick paper tied tightly over them 
Or put them in air-tight jars. 



JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 



215 



Preserved Quinces. — Use a pound of sugar to each pound 
of quince after paring, coring, and quartering; take half of 
the sugar and make a thin sirup ; stew in this a few of the 
quinces at a time till all are finished. Make a rich sirup of 
the remaining sugar, and pour over them. 

Pineapple Preserves. — Use pineapples as ripe as can be had. 
Pare and cut them into thin slices, weigh them, and allow 
one pound of the best granulated sugar to each pound of 
fruit. Take a deep china bowl or dish, and in it put a layer 
of fruit and sugar alternately, a coating of sugar on the top ; 
let it stand all night. In the morning, take out the fruit and 
put the sirup into a preserving-kettle. Boil and skim it until 
it is perfectly clear ; then, while it is boiling hot, pour it 
over the fruit, and let it stand uncovered until it becomes 
entirely cold. If it stands covered, the steam will fall into 
the sirup and thin it. 

Preserved Pears. — Preserved pears are put up precisely as 
are peaches, but are only pared, not cored or divided. "Leave 
the stems on. 

Watermelon Rind Preserves. — Select rind which is firm, 
green, and thick ; cut in any fanciful shape, such as leaves, 
stars, diamonds, etc. Then weigh, and to each pound of 
rind allow one and a half pounds of loaf sugar. To green 
them, take a brass or copper kettle, and to a layer of grape- 
vine leaves, which should be well washed, add a layer of 
the rind, and so on until the last, which should be a thick 
layer of the leaves, and well covered with a coarse linen 
cloth. To each pound of the rind, add a piece of alum the 
size of a pea ; then fill up with warm water sufficient to 
cover the whole, and let it stand upon the stove, where it 
will steam, but not boil, until the greening is completed, 
which will be in two or three hours. When green, lay them 
in clear, cold water, and make your sirup. To each pound 
t©f sugar add one and a half pints of water ; clarify, put in 



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216 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



your rind ; slice lemons, two to each pound of rind, and" 
when about half done add the lemons. Boil until the rind 
is perfectly transparent. A few pieces of ginger-root may 
be added, which will impart a high flavor, and will blend 
very delightfully with the lemons. 

Preserved Citron. — Proceed the same as above, substituting 
citron for the watermelon rind. 

Preserved Strawberries. — Procure fresh, large strawberries 
when in their prime, but not so ripe as to be very soft ; hull 
and weigh them ; take an equal weight of sugar, make a 
sirup, and when boiling hot, put in the berries. A small 
quantity only should be done at once. If crowded, they 
will become mashed. Let them boil about twenty minutes, 
or a half an hour ; turn into tumblers or small jars, and seal 
with egg papers while hot. 

Preserved Cherries. — Wash, stem, and stone the cherries ; 
save every drop of the juice, and use it in place of water in 
making the sirup. Make a sirup, allowing a pound of sugar 
to every pound of fruit; add the fruit, and let it simmer 
gently for half an hour, skimming as is necessary. 

Damson Preserves. — To four pounds of damsons use three 
pounds of sugar ; prick each damson with a needle ; dis- 
solve the sugar with one-half pint of water, and put it on 
the fire ; when it simmers, put in as many damsons as will 
lie on the top ; when they open, take them out and lay them 
on a dish, and put others in, and so on until all have been 
in ; then put them all in the kettle together and let them 
stew until done ; put them in jars and seal them. 

Green Gage Preserves. — When the fruit is ripe, wipe them 
clean, and to one pound of fruit put one-quarter pound of 
sugar, which will make a fine sirup ; boil the fruit in this 
sirup until it is perfectly done ; then use a fresh sirup of one 
pound of fruit to one pound of sugar; moistening the sugar 



JELLIES, JAMS, AND PRESERVES. 



217 



with water. When the sirup boils put in the fruit, and leave 
for fifteen minutes ; then put the fruit in jars ; boil the sirup 
until thick ; when cooled to milkwarm, pour it over the 
fruit; tie the jars tightly and keep in a warm place. 

Strawberries in Wine. — Put a quantity of the finest large 
strawberries in a bottle, strew in a few spoonfuls of pow- 
dered sugar, and fill the bottle up with Madeira or Sh^-rrv 
wine. 

Grapes in Brandy. — Take some close bunches of grapes, 
white or black, not overripe, and lay them in a jar. Put a 
good quantity of pounded white candy upon them, and fill 
up the jar with brandy. Tie them close down, and keep in 
a dry place. Prick each grape with a needle three times. 

Brandy Peaches. — Take large, juicy freestone peaches, not 
so ripe as to burst or mash on being handled. Rub the 
down from them with a clean thick flannel Prick every 
peach down to the stone with a large silver fork, and score 
them all along the seam or cleft. To each pound of peaches 
allow a pound of granulated sugar and half a pint of water 
mixed with half a white of egg, slightly beaten. Put the 
sugar into a porcelain kettle and pour the water upon it. 
When it is quite melted, give it a stirring, set it over the 
fire, and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Then 
put in the peaches, and let them cook (uncovered) in the 
sirup till a straw will penetrate them. Then take the kettle 
off the fire, and take out the fruit with a wooden spoon, 
draining it over the kettle. Let the sirup remain in the ket- 
tle a little longer. Mix a pint of the very best white brandy 
for each pound of peaches, with the sirup, and boil them 
together ten minutes or more. Transfer the peaches to 
large glass jars, making each about two-thirds full, and 
pour the brandy and sirup over them, filling the jars full 
When cool, cover closely. 

Spiced Peaches. — Seven pounds of fruit, one pint vinegar, 



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DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



three pounds sugar, two ounces cinnamon, one-half ounce 
cloves. Scald together the sugar, vinegar, and spices; pour 
over the fruit. Let it stand twenty-four hours ; drain off, 
scald again, and pour over fruit, letting it stand another 
twenty-four hours. Boil all together until the fruit is tender. 
Skim it out, and boil the liquor until thickened. Pour over 
the fruit and set away in a jar. 

Apple Butter. — Boil down a kettieful of cider to two- 
thirds the original quantity. Pare, core, and slice juicy 
apples, and put as many into the cider as it will cover. Boil 
slowly, stirring often with a flat stick, and when the apples 
are tender to breaking, take them out with a perforated 
skimmer, draining well against the sides of the kettle. Put 
in a second supply of apples and stew them soft, as many 
as the cider will hold. Take from the fire, pour all together 
into a tub or large crock ; cover and let it stand twelve 
hours. Then return to the kettle and boil down, stirring all 
the while until it is the consistency of thick custard and 
brown in color. Spice well with Durkee's ground mixed 
spices. 

Peach Butter. — To one bushel of peaches allow from eight 
to ten pounds of granulated sugar; pare and halve the 
peaches, put into the kettle, and stir constantly, to prevent 
sticking to the kettle, until perfectly smooth and rather 
thick ; a part of the peach-stones thrown in and cooked 
with the peaches give it a nice flavor, and they can be after- 
ward skimmed out ; add the sugar a short time before tak- 
ing from the fire ; put in jars and cover tight ; peaches for 
butter should be neither too mealy nor too juicy. 




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XVI.— CANNED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. 

widespread use of canned goods; philosophy of canning 
fruits; how to fill the jars ; what jars are best ; selec- 
tion OF THE FRUIT ; WHERE TO STORE THE CANS ; NEED OF 
WATCHING THE CANS. TWELVE RECIPES OF CANNING FRUIT 
AND VEGETABLES. 

CANNED fruits and vegetables of all kinds may now be 
found abundantly in the stores. Their prices are so 
low that they present a strong inducement to the 
housekeeper to omit the labor incident to home canning, and 
simply to purchase what is needed. 

What is aimed at in all these processes is the entire ex 
elusion of air from the fruit. Its expulsion from them is 
effected by using heat enough to cook them, after which the 
hermetical sealing does the remaining service. Solder, wax, 
and rubber bands do this sealing work. 

If it 1=3 desired to preserve the fruit whole, it may be put 
into tha jars before heating. Fill the jars with water, and 
set them into a wash-boiler of cold water, the water reach- 
ing three-fourths of the way to the tops of the jars. Do not 
set them directly on the bottom, but on a little hay, lest the 
h2at cause them to crack. Bring the water slowly to a boil, 
and let it boil about five minutes. The cans may then be 
taken out, stirred lightly, or shaken, to expel any remaining 
air bubbles ; then fill to the brim with boiling water and 
close the jars. No air bubbles should remain in the can. 
If the fruit can be cooked before canning, the process is 
much simpler, as the boiling material itself expels the air. 
The cans in this case need simply to be filled and theo 
•sealed. 

219 





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220 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 




While filling jars, be careful that no current of cold aiv 
strike them, as this would suffice to crack a glass jar. When 
a jar has cracked, it is hardly safe to use its contents, as 
fragments of glass may be contained in the fruit, which 
would be fatal if swallowed. 

Cans should be of glass or stoneware, as the acids of 
fruit act chemically on tin or other metals, often destroying 
the flavor of the fruit, and sometimes rendering it absolutely 
unwholesome. Do not use a metal spoon even. Either self- 
sealing cans, or those which require wax, may be used suc- 
cessfully, but probably the former are best for those of little 
experience, and they are unquestionably more convenient. 
There are several varieties of self-sealing cans, all of them 
highly recommended, and doubtless all of them sufficiently 
good. The " Valve Jar," the " Mason," and the " Hero " 
are among the best known and most reliable. 

Fruit should be selected with the greatest care. Some 
varieties cannot be preserved at all, unless canned when per- 
fectly fresh, and success is more certain with all kinds in 
proportion to freshness and soundness. The fruit should be 
nearly or quite ripe, but not over-ripe, and all which bears 
signs of decay should be rejected. 

In canning, as in preserving, granulated sugar should 
always be used, and also a porcelain-lined kettle. Peaches, 
pears, or other large fruit may, by the aid of a fork, be 
tastily arranged in the jars, piece by piece. The boiling 
juice may be added afterward to cover them. Thus ar- 
ranged they appear prettier in the jars, though, of course, 
the flavor is not improved. 

All canning work should be done expeditiously, and the 
cans be set away to cool. They should be kept in a cool, 
dark place and closely watched for a few days, to see that 
the sealing is perfect. If the fruit shows signs of not being 
perfectly sealed, it should be at once taken out, scalded, and 
sealed aeain. 



CANNED FRUITS, ETC 



RECIPES. 



221 



Canned Strawberries. — Fill glass jars with fresh strawberries 
sprinkled with sugar, allowing a little over one-quarter of a 
pound of sugar to each pound of berries ; set the jars in a 
boiler, with a little hay laid in the bottom to prevent the 
jars from breaking; fill with cold water to within an inch or 
two of the tops of the jars ; let them ^//fifteen minutes, then 
move back to the boiler, wrap the hand in a towel, and take 
out the jars ; fill the jars to the top before sealing, using one 
or more of the filled jars for that purpose if necessary. 

Canned Gooseberries. — Fill very clean, dry, wide-necked 
bottles with gooseberries gathered the same day and before 
they have attained their full growth. Cork them tightly, 
wrap a little hay round each of them, and set them up to 
their necks in a kettle of cold water, which should be 
brought very gradually to boil. Let the fruit be gently 
simmered until it appears shrunken and perfectly scalded ; 
then take out the bottles, and with the contents of one or 
two fill up the remainder. Use great care not to break the 
fruit in doing this. When all are ready, pour sc oil ding 
water into the bottles and cover the gooseberries entirely 
with it, or they will become moldy at the top. Cork the 
bottles well immediately, and cover the necks with melted 
resin ; keep them in a cool place ; and when they are used 
pour off the greater part of the water and add sugar as for 
the fresh fruit. 

Canned Peaches. — Peel and quarter choice peaches. To 
peel, place them in a wire basket, dip into boiling water a 
moment and then into cold water, and strip off the skins. 
Have a porcelain-kettle with boiling water and another with 
sirup made with granulated sugar ; drop the peaches into 
boiling water (some previously boil the pits in the water foi 
their flavor) and let them cook until tender; then lift them 
out carefully into a can, pouring over them all the sirup th* 



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can will hold, and seal immediately, 
enough to fill one can at a time. 



Cook only peaches 



Canned Peaches, No. 2.— Pare and stone peaches enough foi 
two jars at a time. If many are pared, they will become dark 
colored by standing. Rinse in cold water ; then cook in a 
tich sirup of sugar and water about fifteen or twenty minutes, 
or until they are clear. Put into jars ali that are not broken; 
fill up with the hot sirup, about as thick as ordinary mo- 
lasses, and seal. The same sirup will do to cook several jars. 
After the sirup becomes dark, it, with the broken peaches, 
can be used for marmalade or peach butter. The same 
method can be used for pears, plums, and all light fruits. 

Canned Pineapple. — Use three-fourths of a pound of sugar 
to one pound of fruit. Pick the pineapple to pieces with a 
silver fork. Scald and can while hot. 

Canned Grapes. — Squeeze the pulp from the skin ; boil the 
pulp until the seeds begin to loosen, having the skins boiling 
hard and separately in a little water. When the pulp seems 
tender, put it through the sieve ; then add the skins, if ten- 
der, with the water they boil in, if not too much. Use a 
large coffeecupful of sugar for a quart can ; boil until thick, 
and can in the usual way. 

Canned Plums. — Prick each plum with a needle to prevent 
bursting ; prepare a sirup, allowing a gill of pure water and 
a quarter of a pound of sugar to every three quarts of fruit. 
When the sugar is dissolved and the water blood-warm, put 
in the plums. Heat slowly to a boil. Let them boil five 
minutes — not fast or they will break badly — fill up the jars 
with plums, pour in the scalding sirup until it runs down 
the sides, and seal. Green gages are very fine put up in this 
way, also damsons for pies. 

Canned Pears. — Select finely flavored fruit ; either halve and 
<:ore them or core whole ; make a sirup of sugar and water, 



CANNED FRUITS, ETC. 



223 



using as little water as will dissolve the sugar. Add a 
quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Place the 
fruit in the kettle carefully, and let it come to a boil or until 
the fruit is well scalded. Turn into the jars hot and seal at 
once. 

Canned Tomatoes. — Pour boiling water over the tomatoes 
to loosen the skins. Remove these ; drain off all the juice 
that will come away without pressing hard ; put them into a 
kettle and heat slowly to a boil. The tomatoes will look 
much nicer if all the hard parts be removed before putting 
them on the fire. Rub the pulp soft with your hands. Boil 
half an hour ; dip out the surplus liquid, pour the tomatoes, 
boiling hot, into the cans, and seal. Keep in a cool, dark 
place. 

Canned Beans. — Remove the strings at the sides, and cut 
into pieces about an inch long ; put them into boiling water 
and scald, then can them. 

Canned Asparagus. — Cut away all the hard part of the stem 
and boil the top portion until nearly done, just as if about 
to serve at once. Flat cans are best, into which the stems 
can be laid regularly, the water in which they were boiled 
being poured over them boiling hot, and the can sealed. If 
jars or high cans are used, pack the asparagus into them 
until they are full. Fill the cans with water ; set them on 
hay in a boiler of cold water reaching to within an inch of 
their tops ; then bring to a boil and nearly finish cooking 
the stems. Wrap the hand in a towel ; take out the cans 
and seal or solder them as in other vegetables. 

Canned Corn. — Boil sweet corn till nearly done ; cut close 
from the cobs and fill the jars ; pour on water in which the 
corn was boiled ; place in a boiler and just bring to a boil, 
as above : then take out and seal. 



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MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



XVII.— PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 

PICKLES MORE POPULAR THAN WHOLESOME; GREENING PICKLES t 
WHAT KETTLES AND JARS SHOULD NOT BE USED IN PICKLING; 
CHOOSING THE FRUIT, SPICES, ETC. ; HOW TO KEEP PICKLES J 
CATSUPS, HOW MADE, ETC. THIRTY-THREE RECIPES FOR PICKLES 
AND CATSUPS. 




PICKLES are very popular as a relish, but it must be 
confessed that they are not the most wholesome diet 
This is due chiefly to the fact that they are made ol 
hard, crude, and often of unripe fruit. Then, too, the ex 
cess of acid and the high seasoning disagree with many 
constitutions. 

It is deemed important that pickles for the market be 
well greened. To accomplish this end, copperas and other 
chemicals are employed or copper kettles are used. All 
this is poisonous, and should be shunned. No metal ket- 
tles or spoons should be tolerated in pickling. Glazed jars 
are not desirable either, as salt and vinegar decompose the 
glazing and set free the lead which it contains. An ordinary 
stone jar is the vessel to use, or a porcelain-lined kettle. 

Be careful to select perfectly sound fruit or vegetables for 
pickling, and use none but the very best cider vinegar. 
Good white wine vinegar does well for some sorts of pickles, 
but be ever watchful against chemical preparations called 
vinegar, that destroy instead of preserving the articles put 
away in them. In the selection of spices there is so much 
diversity of taste that no general directions will be of prac- 
tical value. But get the purest articles you can find. 

Pickles must be kept from the air. It is a good plan to 

22a 



PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 



225 



put them up in large jars, and for use to empty the large 
jar at once into smaller ones, using these one at a time. 
Keep them wholly covered with the vinegar. Water will 
soon cause the jar of pickles to spoil. 

The same hints given above apply to the making of cat- 
sup, which is really but a pickle cooked to a more advanced 
point. It needs to be tightly corked and sealed, that it may 
keep well. 

RECIPES. 

Cucumber Pickles. — Make a weak brine, hot or cold ; if hot, 
let the cucumbers stand in it twenty-four hours ; if cold, 
forty-eight hours ; rinse and dry the cucumbers with a cloth, 
take vinegar enough to cover them, allow one ounce of 
alum to every gallon of vinegar, put it in a brass kettle (or 
porcelain-lined, if the greening is not desired) with the 
cucumbers, and heat slowly, turning the cucumbers from 
the bottom frequently ; as soon as they are heated through, 
skim them out into a crock, let the vinegar boil up, turn it 
over the pickles, and let them stand at least twenty-four 
hours ; drain off the vinegar. Take fresh vinegar, and to 
every gallon allow two tablespoofuls of white mustard-seed, 
one of cloves, one of celery-seed, one of stick cinnamon, 
one large, green pepper, a very little horse-radish, and, if 
you like, one-half pint of sugar. Divide the spices equally 
into several small bags of coarse muslin, scald with the vine- 
gar, and pour over the pickles. If you like your pickles 
hard, let the vinegar cool before pouring over them. 

Cucumber Pickles, No. 2. — To a gallon of water add a quart 
of salt, put in the cucumbers, and let them stand over night. 
In the morning, wash them out of the brine, and put them 
carefully into a stone jar. Boil a gallon of vinegar, put in, 
while cold, quarter of a pound of cloves, and a tablespoon- 
ful of alum ; when it boils hard, skim it well and turn over 
the cucumbers. In a week they will be fit for use. 
15 



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226 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 




Pickled Onions. — Select small white onions, put them over 
the fire in cold water with a handful of salt. When the 
water becomes scalding hot, take them out and peel off the 
skins, lay them in a cloth to dry; then put them in a jar. 
Boil half an ounce of allspice and half an ounce of cloves 
in a quart of vinegar. Take out the sp ; ce and pour the 
vinegar over the onions while it is hot. Tie up the jar when 
the vinegar is cold, and keep it in a dry place. 

Pickled Onions, No. 2. — Take small, white onions and peel 
them ; lay them in salt water for two days ; change the water 
once ; then drain and put them in bottles. Take vinegar 
enough to cover them, spice with whole mixed spices, scald 
it, and pour over the onions. 

Pickled Garlic and Eschalots. — Garlic and eschalots may be 
pickled in the same way as onions. 

Pickled Nasturtiums. — Nasturtiums should be gathered 
quite young, and a portion of the buds, when very small, 
should be mixed with them. Prepare a pickle by dissolv- 
ing an ounce and a half of salt in a quart of pale vinegar, 
and throw in the berries as they become fit, from day to 
day. They are used instead of capers for sauce, and by 
some persons are preferred to them. When purchased for 
pickling, put them at once into a jar and cover them well 
with the vinegar. 

Pickled Watermelon. — Take the outer part of the rind of 
the melon, pare and cut in small pieces. To one quart of 
vinegar add two pounds of sugar, one ounce of cassia buds. 
In this boil the rind until clear and tender. 

Pickled Walnuts. — Walnuts for this pickle must be gathered 
while a pin can pierce them easily. When once the shell 
can be felt, they have ceased to be in a proper state for it. 
Make sufficient brine to cover them well, with six ounces of 
salt to the gallon of water ; take off the scum, which will 



PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 



22? 



rise to the surface as the salt dissolves, throw in the walnuts, 
and stir them night and morning ; change the brine every 
three days, and if they are wanted for immediate eating, 
leave them in it for twelve days ; otherwise, drain them 
from it in nine, spread them on dishes, and let them remain 
exposed to the air until they become black ; this will be in 
twelve hours, or less. Make a pickle for them with some- 
thing more than half a gallon of vinegar to the hundred, a 
teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of black pepper, three of 
bruised ginger, a drachm of mace, and from a quarter to 
half an ounce of cloves (of which some may be stuck into 
three or four small onions), and four ounces of mustard- 
seed. Boil the whole of these together for about five min- 
utes ; have the walnuts ready in a stone jar, or jars, and 
pour the vinegar on them as soon as it is taken from the fire. 
When the pickle is quite cold, cover the jar securely and 
store it in a dry place. Keep the walnuts always well 
covered with vinegar, and boil that which is added to them. 

Pickled Red Cabbage. — Slice the red cabbage into a colan- 
der, and sprinkle each layer with salt ; let it drain two days, 
then put it into a jar and pour boiling vinegar enough to 
cover, and put in a few slices of red beet-root. Use the 
purple red cabbage. Cauliflower cut in bunches, and 
thrown in after being salted, will take on the color of a 
beautiful red. 

Pickled Mushrooms.— Rub the mushroom heads with flan~ 
nel and salt, throw them in a stewpan with a little salt over 
them ; sprinkle with pepper and a small quantity of mace ; 
as the liquor comes out, shake them well, and keep them 
over a gentle fire until all the liquor is dried into them 
again ; then put as much vinegar into the pan as will cover 
them ; give it a scald, and pour the whole into bottles. 

Pickled Beets.— Wash the beet perfectly, not cutting any 
of the fibrous roots, lest the juice escape; put in sufficient 



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228 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



water to boil it, and when the skin will come off easily it is 
sufficiently cooked, and may be taken out and laid upon a 
cloth to cool. Having rubbed off the peel, cut the beet 
into thick slices, pour over it cold vinegar prepared as fol- 
lows : Boil a quart of vinegar with an ounce of whole black 
pepper and an equal weight of dry ginger, and let it stanc 
until quite cold. Keep closely corked. 

Pickled Peppers. — Do not pick them till just as they begin 
to turn red ; then soak them for ten or twelve days in strong 
salt and water ; take them from the brine and soak them 
in clear water for a day. Wipe them dry, and put them 
away in cold vinegar ; or if you wish them milder, remove 
the seeds and scald the vinegar, but do not boil, 

Pickled Bell Peppers. — Cut a slit in the side of each pepper 
and take out all the seeds. Let them soak in brine (strong 
enough to float an egg) two days. Then, washing them in 
cold water, put them into a stonejar. Pour over them vine- 
gar boiled with cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. Whenever 
they are wanted to be served, stuff each one with a boiled 
tongue cut into dice and mixed with a mayonnaise dressing. 
Or little mangoes may be made, stuffing each one with 
pickled nasturtiums, grapes, minced onions, red cabbage, or 
cucumbers, seasoned with mustard-seed, root ginger, and 
mace. 

Pepper-hash. — Take four dozen peppers, two very large 
cabbages, one ounce of light mustard-seed. Chop the 
peppers fine, cut the cabbage on a cabbage-knife, mix to- 
gether, salt well, and let it stand over night, putting the 
dish or tub so the juice will run down ; pour off in the 
morning. Add one ounce of cloves, one ounce of allspice; 
mix all through, and put the vinegar on cold. 

Flint Pickles. — Make a brine of a gallon of water and a 
cupful of salt. This must be poured boiling hot on the cu- 
cumbers six davs in succession. Rinse them in cold water; 



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PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 



229 



put them in a kettle with a teaspoonful of allspice and a tea- 
spoonful of cloves, a handful of cinnamon sticks, a little 
sliced horse-radish, and cider vinegar to cover them. Let 
them come to a boil, then take out and put in jars. 

East India Pickle. — One hundred cucumbers (large and 
small), one peck of green tomatoes, one-half peck of onions, 
four cauliflowers, four red peppers (without the seeds), four 
heads of celery, one pint of bottled horse-radish. Slice all, 
and stand in salt twenty-four hours, then drain ; pour on 
weak vinegar ; stand on stove until it comes to a boil ; then 
drain again. Take one ounce of ground cinnamon, one 
ounce of ground tumeric, one-half pound of mustard, one- 
quarter pound of brown sugar; wet these with cold vinegar; 
add to this sufficient vinegar to moisten all the pickles. 
Cook all together ten minutes. Seal in bottles while hot. 

French Pickle. — Take one peck of green tomatoes, sliced ; 
six large onions. Throw on them a teacupful of salt over night. 
Drain thoroughly, then boil in two quarts of water and one 
quart of vinegar fifteen or twenty minutes; drain in colan- 
der ; then take four quarts of vinegar, two pounds of brown 
sugar, one-half pound of white mustard-seed, two table- 
spoonfuls of cloves, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two 
tablespoonfuls of ginger, two tablespoonfuls of ground 
mustard, one teaspoonful of cayenne pepper ; put all to- 
gether and cook fifteen minutes. 

Piccallily. — One peck of green tomatoes sliced, one-half 
peck of onions sliced, one cauliflower, one peck of small cu- 
cumbers. Leave in salt and water twenty-four hours ; then 
put in a kettle with a handful of scraped horse-radish, one 
ounce of tumeric, one ounce of whole cloves, one-quarter 
pound of whole pepper, one ounce of cassia buds or cinna- 
mon, one pound of white mustard-seed, one pound of Eng- 
lish mustard. Put in kettle in layers, and cover with cold 
vinegar. Boil fifteen minutes, constantly stirring. 





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230 



DOMESTIC COOKE/; Y. 



Chow-chow. — One quart of large cucumbers, one quart o? 
small ones ; two quarts of onions, four heads of cauliflower,, 
six green peppers, one quart of green tomatoes, one gallon 
of vinegar, one pound of mustard, two cupfuls of sugar, two- 
cupfuls of flour, one ounce of tumeric. Put all in salt and 
water one night ; cook all the vegetables in brine until 
tender except the large cucumbers. Pour vinegar and 
spices over all. 

Sweet Pickles. — Such fruit as peaches, plums, cherries,, 
grapes, etc., are very palatable when sweet pickded. The 
process is the same as for other light pickles, except that 
the vinegar is sweetened to taste. 

Sweet Tomato Pickles. — Eight pounds of peeled tomatoes,, 
four of powdered sugar. Of cinnamon, cloves, and allspice, 
each one ounce. Boil one hour, and add a quart of boiling 
vinegar. 

Tomato Catsup. — Take one bushel of tomatoes ; boil soft, 
and pass through a sieve. Add half a gallon of cider vinegar, 
one pint of salt, two ounces of cloves, a quarter pound of 
allspice, a half ounce of cayenne pepper. Boil until 
reduced to half the quantity. When cool, bottle and cork 
tightly. 

Tomato Catsup, No. 2. — Take one peck of ripe tomatoes, cut 
up, boil tender, and strain through a wire sieve; add one 
Luge tablespoonful of ground cloves, one large tablespoon- 
ful of allspice, one large tablespoonful of cinnamon, one tea- 
spoonful of cayenne pepper, one-quarter pound of salt, one- 
quarter pound of mustard, one pint of vinegar. Boil gently 
three hours. Bottle and seal while warm. 

Green Tomato Catsup. — One peck of green tomatoes, one 
dozen large onions, one-half pint of salt; slice the tomatoes 
and onions. To a layer of these add a layer of salt; let 
stand twenty-four hours, then drain. Add one-quarter pound 



PICKLES AND CATSUPS. 



23J. 



of mustard-seed, three dessertspoonfuls of sweet oil, one 
ounce of allspice, one ounce of cloves, one ounce of ground 
mustard, one ounce of ground ginger, two tablespoonfuls of 
•black pepper, two teaspoonfuls of celery-seed, one-quarter 
pound of brown sugar. Put all into a preserving-pan, cover 
with vinegar, and boil two hours. 

Chili Sauce. — Thirty tomatoes, three large onions, three 
peppers, one tablespoonful each of allspice, cloves, and cin- 
namon, two nutmegs, two tablespoonfuls of salt, one quart ol 
vinegar, one cupful of sugar. Chop the onions and pep- 
pers very fine. Cook the tomatoes somewhat first. Mix 
thoroughly. 

Tomato Soy. — One-half bushel of green tomatoes, three 
onions, three green peppers, one-quarter pound of mustard- 
seed, three cupfuls of sugar, three cabbages. Chop the 
tomatoes and onions together fine ; add to one gallon of the 
tomatoes one cupful of salt ; let stand twenty-four hours, 
•drain, and add the peppers (chopped fine), mustard-seed, 
sugar, and other spices to taste. Moisten all with vinegar 
and cook until tender. Before bottling, add the cabbages 
(chopped), and one cupful of chopped horse-radish. 

Grape Catsup. — Take five pints of grapes ; simmer until 
soft, then put through a colander; add to them two pints of 
brown sugar, one pint of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of all- 
spice, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of 
cloves, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of mace, one teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of red pepper. Boil 
till thick ; then bottle and seal tightly. 

Walnut Catsup. — The vinegar in which walnuts have been 
pickled, when they have remained in it a year, will generally 
answer all the purposes for which this catsup is required, 
particularly if it be drained from them and boiled for a few 
minutes, with a little additional spice and a few eschalots , 
but where the vinegar is objected to, it may be made by 



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DOMESTIC COOKER Y. 



boiling either the expressed juice of young walnuts for an 
hour, with six ounces of fine anchovies, four ounces of 
eschalots, half an ounce of black pepper, a quarter ounce of 
cloves, and a drachm of mace to every quart. 

Walnut Catsup, No. 2. — Pound in a mortar a hundred young 
walnuts, strewing among them as they are done half a 
pound of salt; then pour to them a quart of strong vinegar 
and let them stand until they have become quite black, 
keeping them stirred three or four times a day ; next add a 
quart of strong, old beer, and boil the whole together for ten 
minutes ; strain it, and let it remain until the next day ; then 
pour it off clear from the sediment, add to > one large head 
of garlic bruised, half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, the same 
quantity of cloves and black pepper, and two drachms of 
mace ; boil these together for half an hour, and the follow- 
ing day bottle and cork the catsup well. 

A bottle of port wine may be added before bottling, if de- 
sired, and a large bunch of sweet herbs. 

Oyster Catsup. — Take fine, large fresh oysters, opened care- 
fully, and wash them in their own liquor. To take any par- 
ticle of shell that may remain, strain the liquor after. Pound 
the oysters in a mortar, add the liquor, and to every pint 
put a pint of sherry ; boil it up and skim ; then add two 
anchovies, pounded, an ounce of common salt, two drachms 
of pounded mace, and one of cayenne. Let it boil up, then 
skim, and rub it through a sieve. Bottle when cold and 
seal it. What remains in the sieve will do for oyster sauce. 

Oyster Catsup, No. 2. — One quart oysters, one tablespoon- 
ful salt, one tablespoonful cayenne pepper, one tablespoonful 
mace, one teacupful cider vinegar, one teacupful sherry. 
Chop the oysters, and boil in their own liquor with the tea- 
cupful of vinegar, skimming the skum as it rises. Boil three 
minutes, strain through a hair cloth, return the liquor to the 



PICKLES AND CA TSUPS. 



233 



fire ; add the wine, pepper, salt, and mace. Boil fifteen 
minutes, and when cold, bottle for use. 

Mushroom Catsup with Spice. — Take full-grown and fresh- 
gathered mushrooms ; put a layer of these at the bottom of 
a deep earthen pan and sprinkle them with salt ; then another 
layer of mushrooms ; sprinkle more salt on them, and so on 
alternately. Let them stand for two or three hours, by 
which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms and 
have made them easy to break ; then pound them in a mor- 
tar, or break them well with your hands ; let them remain 
in this state for two days, not more, washing them well once 
or twice a day ; then pour them into a stone jar, and to each 
quart add an ounce and a half of whole black pepper and 
half an ounce of allspice ; stop the jar very close, and set it 
in a saucepan of boiling water and keep it boiling for two 
hours at least. Take out the jar and pour the juice clear 
from the settlings through a hair sieve into a clean stewpan, 
and boil it very gently on a slow fire for half an hour. 

Mushroom Catsup without Spice. — Sprinkle a little salt over 
your mushrooms. Three hours after, mash them ; next day, 
strain off the liquor and boil it till it is reduced to half. It 
will not keep long, but an artificial mushroom bed will 
supply this, the very best mushroom catsup, all the year 
round. 



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MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






XVIII.— BEVERAGES. 



HINTS ON HOME BEVERAGES; USE GOOD MATERIALS; WHAT TEA 

is; kinds of tea; its value as a beverage; kinds of 
coffee ; adulterations of coffee ; HOW TO get it pure ; 

HOW TO RETAIN ITS FLAVOR; THE COFFEEPOT; CHOCOLATE 
AND ITS PREPARATION; OTHER BEVERAGES. THIRTY-THREE 
RECIPES FOR BEVERAGES. 



ASIDE from the spirituous and malt liquors, the composi- 
tion of which is not attempted in the household, there 
is a long line of beverages concerning which some 
hints are of value. In general, it maybe said, employ good 
materials, and do not stint them in quantity, if you want 
good results. What is worth doing at all in culinary lines 
is worth doing well, and beverages, being in the line of lux- 
uries, should be good, if not positively luxuriant. 

Tea is the leaf of the tea-tree cured in various ways, and 
so appearing in the various forms known to commerce. 
hlack teas are subjected to the action of heat far beyond the 
green teas. The green teas go through a greening process 
also, the healthfulness of which may well be questioned. 

Of the black teas, the Pekoe is the earliest gathered and 
mildest, while the Souchong, the Congou, and the Bohea 
are respectively older in growth and stronger in flavor. 

Of the green teas, the Young Hyson is from the tenderest 
and mildest leaf, the Gunpowder, Hyson, and Twankay 
being of older growth respectively and of stronger flavor. 
The treatment of all these leaves, as well as their age, are 
important factors in their final quality. 

234 



BEVERAGES. 



235 



The nutritive value of tea is not appreciable, but as an ex- 
citant of respiratory action and a promoter of digestion it is 
very valuable. Tea should be kept closely covered in air- 
tight canisters, in order that the flavor may be retained. 

Coffee will grow in any climate where the temperature 
does not fall below fifty-five degrees. The best brands are 
the Mocha and the Java, but South America supplies the 
largest amount used in this country, which is sold under the 
general name of Rio. Coffee is often wretchedly adulterated, 
especially when sold in the roasted and ground form. It is 
safer to buy it green and to roast and grind it at home. 

Roasted coffee should be kept in tight canisters or boxes, 
and it should be ground only as it is wanted for use. The 
coffeepot must be scalded clean and occasionally with soda, 
so that the inside may be absolutely pure. 

Chocolate should never be made except it is intended to 
be used immediately. By allowing it to become cold or 
by boiling it again, the flavor is injured, the oily particles of 
the cocoa are separated and rise to the surface also, and they 
will never blend pleasantly again. 

Other beverages are in occasional use, but those already 
mentioned are the standards in this land. 



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FRIENDS' RECIPES 





RECIPES. 



Tea. — People must consult their own tastes as to the kind 
c? tea. A mixed tea is generally preferred, combining the 
livors of both green and black. Allow one teaspoonful 
for each person. Use boiling water, but do not boil the tea, 
and use while fresh. Tea is best made in an earthen teapot. 
It should never be made in tin. 

Iced Tea. — Iced tea should be made several hours before it 
is needed and then set upon ice. When ready to use it, 
sweeten and drink without milk or cream. Use cracked ice 




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236 



DOMESTIC COOKERY. 



to put into the glass. The tea must be extra strong, and do 
not stint the ice. 

Tea a la Russe — Slice fresh, juicy lemons; pare them 
carefully, lay a piece in the bottom of each cup ; sprinkle 
with white sugar and pour the tea, very hot and strong, 
over them. 

Iced Tea a la Russe.— To each goblet of cold tea (without 
cream) add the juice of half a lemon. Fill up with 
pounded ice and sweeten well. A glass of champagne 
added to this makes what is called Russian punch. 

Coffee.— To make choicest coffee, take equal quantities of 
Java and Mocha ; grind finely together, allowing about two 
teaspoonfuls of ground coffee to each person ; add an egg 
with its shell and a very little cold water ; stir this thor- 
oughly together and turn on boiling water. Set the pot on 
the back of the range for five minutes ; then draw forward 
and allow it to boil up just an instant ; clear the spout by 
pouring from it and returning it in the top of the pot. Then 
serve at once with plenty of cream and sugar. 

Iced Coffee.— Make the coffee extra strong. When it is 
cold, mix with an equal quantity of fresh cream ; sweeten to 
taste, and freeze as in ice-cream, or serve with abundance of 
broken ice. 

Cafe Noir— This is the strongest preparation of coffee, its 
very essence, indeed. It is used after dessert at course din- 
ners. Make the coffee strong and clear as possible, but use 
only one-third the ordinary quantity of water. Serve with 
lump sugar, with which it should be highly sweetened, and 
Mse very small cups. Cream may be added if desired. 

Meringued Coffee.— For six cupfuls of coffee take about 
one cupful of sweet cream, whipped light, with a little sugar. 
Put into each cup the desired amount of sugar and about 
a tablespoonful of boiling milk. Pour the coffee over these, 



BEVERAGES. 



23? 



and lay upon the surface of the hot liquid a large spoonful 
of the frothed cream. Give a gentle stir to each cup before 
sending it from the tray. 

Frothed Cafe au Lait. — Pour into the table urn one quart 
of strong, clear coffee, strained through muslin, and one 
quart of boiling milk, alternating them, and stirring gently. 
Cover and wrap a thick cloth about the urn for five minutes 
before it goes to table. Have ready in a cream-pitcher the 
whites of three eggs, beaten stiff, and one tablespoonful of 
powdered sugar, whipped with them. Put a large spoonful 
of this froth upon each cupful of coffee as you pour it out, 
heaping it slightly in the centre. 

Chocolate. — Scrape fine one square of a cake, which is one 
ounce ; add to it an equal weight of sugar ; put these into 
a pint of boiling milk and water, each one-half, and stir well 
for two or three minutes until the sugar and chocolate are 
well dissolved. This preparation may be improved by 
adding a well-beaten egg or two and stirring briskly through 
the mixture with a Dover egg-beater. A teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract added just before sending to table is a valua- 
ble addition. 

Frothed Chocolate. — One cupful of boiling water; three 
pints of fresh milk ; three tablespoonfuls of Baker's choco- 
late, grated ; five eggs, the whites only, beaten light, and two 
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar for froth. Sweeten the 
chocolate to taste ; heat the milk to scalding ; wet up the 
chocolate with the boiling water, and when the milk is hot, 
stir this into it ; simmer gently ten minutes, stirring fre- 
quently ; boil up briskly once ; take from the fire ; sweeten 
to taste, taking care not to make it too sweet, and stir in the 
whites of two eggs, whipped stiff, without sugar; pour into 
the chocolate pot or pitcher, which should be well heated. 
Have ready in a cream-pitcher the remaining whites, 



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whipped up with the powdered sugar ; cover the surface of 
each cup with the sweetened meringue before distributing to 
the guests. 

Choca. — This beverage, a favorite with many, is made by 
mixing coffee and chocolate, as prepared for the table, in 
equal quantities, and serving hot for breakfast. 

Broma. — Dissolve a large tablespoonful of Baker's broma 
in as much warm water ; then pour upon it a pint of boiling 
milk and water, in equal proportions, and boil it two min- 
utes longer, stirring it frequently ; add sugar at pleasure. 

Breakfast Cocoa. — Into a breakfast cup put a teaspoonful of 
the powder, add a tablespoonful of boiling water, and mix 
thoroughly. Then add equal parts of boiling water and 
boiled milk, and sugar to the taste. Boiling two or three 
minutes will improve it. 

Cocoa Shells. — Take a small quantity of cocoa shells (say 
two ounces), pour upon them three pints of boiling water, 
boil rapidly thirty or forty minutes ; allow it to settle 
or strain, and add cream or boiling milk and sugar at 
pleasure. 

Lemonade. — Squeeze the juice of lemons, and add sugar 
and ice-water to taste. 

Concentrated Lemonade. — Make a rich sirup of two and a 
half pounds of sugar and one pint of cold water and boil 
gradually. Pour it hot on one and a half ounces of citric 
acid. Bottle tight while hot. One tablespoonful will make 
a tumblerful of lemonade. 

Portable Lemonade. — Mix a quarter pound of white sugar 
with the grated rind of a large, juicy lemon. Pour upon 
this the strained juice of the lemon and pack in ajar. One 
tablespoonful will suffice for a glass of water. 

Egg Nog. — To the yelks of six eggs, add six tablespoon- 
ills of powdered sugar, one quart of new milk, a half pint 



BEVERAGES. 



239 



Oi French brandy, and one pint of Madeira wine. Beat the 
whites up separately, and stir them through the mixture just 
before pouring into glasses for use. 

Roman Punch. — Beat stiff the whites of three eggs, with a 
half pound of powdered sugar. Add three teacupfuls of 
strong, sweet lemonade, one wineglassful each of rum and 
champagne, and the juice of two oranges. Ice abundantly, 
or freeze. 

Milk Punch. — Boil one quart of milk, warm from the cow. 
Beat up the yelks of four eggs and four tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sugar together; add two glasses of the best 
sherry wine ; pour into a pitcher, and mix with it the boil- 
ing- milk, stirring all the time. Pour from one vessel to 
another six times ; add cinnamon and nutmeg to taste, and 
serve as soon as it can be swallowed without scalding the 
throat. 

Currant and Raspberry Shrub. — Pound four quarts of ripe 
currants and three quarts of red raspberries in a stone jar or 
wide-mouthed crock with a wooden beetle. Squeeze out 
every drop of the juice; put this into a porcelain, enamel, 
or very clean bell-metal kettle, and boil hard ten minutes. 
Put in four pounds of loaf sugar at the end of the ten min- 
utes, and boil up once to throw the scum to the top ; skim 
and let it get perfectly cold ; then skim off all remaining 
impurities; add one quart of the best brandy and shake 
hard for five minutes. Bottle, seal the corks, and lay the 
bottles on their sides in dry sawdust 

Currant Wine. — One quart of currant juice, three pounds 
of brown sugar, and one gallon of water ; dissolve the sugar 
in the water, then add the juice ; when it ferments, add a 
little fresh water each day till it is done fermenting, which 
will be in from a month and a half to two months ; turn it 
off, scald the keg, put it in again, and cork tightly. 



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Raspberry Wine. — Bruise the raspberries with the back of 
a spoon ; strain them through a flannel bag ; add one pound 
of loaf sugar to one quart of juice; stir well and cover 
closely, letting it stand for three days, stirring well each 
day. Pour off the clear juice and add one quart of juice 
to two quarts of sherry wine ; bottle it and use in two 
weeks. 

Raspberry Brandy. — Using brandy instead of wine, as 
above, will produce a very valuable medicinal drink, Rasp- 
berry Brandy. 

Raspberry Vinegar. — Take three pints of red berries ; pour 
over them one pint of cider vinegar and let stand twenty- 
four hours. Strain, and to one pint of juice add one 
pound of sugar ; boil one-half hour, and when cold, bottle 
for use. 

Cherry Brandy. — Use either morello cherries or small black 
cherries ; pick them from the stalks ; fill the bottles nearly 
up to the necks, then fill up with brandy (some use whisky, 
gin, or spirit distilled from the lees of wine). In three 
weeks or a month strain off the spirit ; to each quart add 
one pound of loaf sugar clarified, and flavor with tincture 
of cinnamon or cloves. 

Sherbet. — In a quart of water boil six or eight sticks of 
rhubarb ten minutes ; strain the boiling liquor on the thin 
shaved rind of a lemon. Two ounces of clarified sugar, 
with a wineglassful of brandy, stir to the above, and let it 
stand five or six hours before using. 

Ginger Beer. — Two ounces of ginger to a pint of molasses ; 
add a gallon of warm water; stir it well, and add half a pint 
of lively yeast. If you wish it sweeter or hotter, add gin- 
ger or molasses before putting in the yeast, to suit your 
taste. 



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241 



Spruce Beer. — To three gallons of boiling water, add two 
pounds of molasses and two ounces of essence of spruce. 
Let the mixture cool, and when lukewarm, add a scant gill 
of yeast and set aside to ferment. While the fermentation 
goes on, skim frequently. When it becomes inactive, put in 
stone bottles and tie the corks down. White sugar may be 
used instead of molasses, and will give a better color. 

Quick Beer. — To fourteen quarts of water add one quart of 
molasses, one quart of hop yeast, and four tablespoonfuls of 
ginger. Mix well ; strain through a fine sieve ; bottle im- 
mediately. Ready for use in twenty-four hours. 

Imperial. — Mix in a jug one-half ounce of cream tartar 
and one quart of boiling water ; flavor with lemon peel or 
essence of lemon, and sweeten to taste. This is a refreshing 
and pleasantly stimulating summer drink. 

Mead. — Mix six gallons of water with six quarts of 
strained honey ; add the yellow rind of two large lemons, 
pared thin, and the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff 
froth. Mix well and boil three-quarters of an hour, skim- 
ming thoroughly. Pour into a tub, add three tablespoonfuls 
of good yeast, and leave it ferment. When it is well worked, 
pour into a barrel with some lemon peel, and let it stand six 
months. Then bottle and tie down the corks. It is ready 
for immediate use, or will keep for months in a cool place. 



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XIX.— CANDIES. 

CARE NEEDED TO COOK CANDY ; WHEN COOKED ENOUGH : FLAVOR 
ING, COOLING, AND PULLING. TWENTY-ONE RECIPES FOR CANDY, 

THE great danger in candy-making is that of burning the 
sugar. To properly cook the candy requires a heat oi 
about two hundred and fifty degrees. Less than that 
heat will leave the candy soft and sticky. A very little more 
than two hundred and sixty degrees will burn it. Here, 
then, is the need of care in candy-making. 

In the cooking, allow the heat to reach the bottom of the 
pan only. Have a quick fire that the work may be done in 
ihe shortest possible time. When cooked for about fifteen 
minutes, test a spoonful of the mass upon a cold plate. If it 
form a viscid, tenacious mass, which forms a long, adherent 
thread when drawn out, then it is nearly done, and it needs 
special care lest it burn before the work be completed. Test 
frequently now, dropping a little in cold water. When the 
hardened portion is crisp as a pipestem, the cooking has 
gone far enough. Then comes the flavoring and coloring. 

When the mass has cooled on a stone or buttered plate, 
so that it can be handled, it is ready for pulling, rolling intx* 
sticks, shaping into forms, etc. The pulling process is 
simply a mechanical means of whitening the candy. It is 
literally a pulling, the candy being thrown on a hook and 
pulled out from it, then being thrown on it again and again 
pulled, and so on, as maybe desired, the longer pulling giv- 
ing the whiter candy. 

For home-made candies use pure materials and good 
fruit. Enough of earths and starch and decayed fruits are 
bought in the cheap candies of the stores. 

?/ ' 



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RECIPES. 



243 



Molasses Candy. — Three cupfuls of brown sugar, one-half 
cupful of molasses, one cupful of water, one-half teaspoonful 
of cream tartar, butter the size of a walnut. Bring to aboil, 
and when crisp by testing in cold water, flavor ; pour out on 
a buttered plate, and pull to whiteness if desired. 

Butter Scotch. — Two cupfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls 
of water, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Boil without 
stirring, until it hardens on a spoon. Pour out on buttered 
plates to cool. 

Ice-cream Candy. — Take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, 
half a cupful of water, and add one-quarter of a teaspoonful 
of cream tartar dissolved in a teaspoonful of boiling water. 
Put it in a porcelain kettle, and boil ten minutes without 
stirring it. Drop a few drops into a saucer of cold water 01 
on snow. If it become brittle, it is done ; if not, boil till it is. 
Add a piece of butter half as large as an egg while it is on 
the fire, and stir it in. Pour into a buttered tin, and set on 
ice or snow to cool enough to pull it white. Flavor with 
vanilla just before it is cool enough to pull. Work into 
strands and cut into sticks. 

Cream Candy. — One pound of white sugar, three table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, one teaspoonful of lemon extract, one 
teaspoonful of .cream tartar. Add a little water to moisten 
the sugar, and boil until brittle. Put in the extract, then 
turn quickly out on buttered plates. When cool, pull until 
white, and cut in squares. 

Cocoanut Candy. — Grate very fine a sound cocoanut, spread 
it on a dish, and let it dry naturally for three days, as it will 
not bear the heat of an oven, and is too oily for use when 
freshly broken. Four ounces will be sufficient for a pound 
of sugar for most tastes, but more can be used at pleasure. 
To one pound of sugar, take one-half pint of water, a very 



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little white of egg, and then pour over the sugar; let ft 
stand for a short time, then place over a very clear fire, and 
let it boil for a few minutes ; then set it one side until the 
scum is subsided, clear it off, and boil the sugar until very 
thick ; then strew in the nut, stir and mix it well, and do not 
quit for an instant until it is finished. The pan should no; 
be placed on the fire, but over it, as the nut is liable to burn 
with too fierce a heat. 

Almond Candy. — Proceed in the same way as for cocoanut 
candy. Let the almonds be blanched and perfectly dry, and 
do not throw them into the sugar until they approach the 
candying point. 

Candied Nuts and Fruits. — Three cupfuls of sugar, one cup- 
ful of water ; boil until it hardens when dropped in water, 
then flavor with lemon. It must not boil after the lemon is 
put in. Put a nut on the end of a fine knitting needle, take 
out, and turn on the needle until it is cool. If the candy 
gets cold, set on the stove for a few minutes. Malaga 
grapes, and oranges quartered, may be candied in the same 
way. 

Chocolate Caramels. — Two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful oi 
warm water, one-half cupful of grated chocolate, three- 
fourths of a cupful of butter. Let it boil without stirring 
until it snaps in water. 

Chocolate Caramels, No. 2. — One cupful of rich, sweet cream ; 
one cupful of brown sugar ; one cupful of white sugar; seven 
tablespoonfuls of vanilla chocolate ; one tablespoonful o{ 
corn-starch, stirred in the cream ; one tablespoonful of but- 
ter; vanilla flavoring; soda, the size of a pea, stirred into 
cream. Boil all the ingredients, except the chocolate and 
vanilla extract, half an hour, stirring to prevent burning. 
Reserve half of the cream, and wet up the chocolate in it, 
adding a very little water if necessary. Draw the saucepan 
to the side of the range, and stir this in well ; put back on 



CANDIES. 



24o 



the fire and boil ten minutes longer, quite fast, stirring con- 
stantly. When it makes a hard, glossy coat on the spoon, 
it is done. Add the vanilla after taking it from the range. 
Turn into shallow dishes, well buttered. When cold 
enough to retain the impression of the knife, cut into 
squares. 

Lemon Taffy. — Two cupfuls of white sugar, one cupful of 
boiling water, one-quarter cupful of vinegar, one-half cupful 
of butter ; flavor with lemon ; pour in buttered plates to cool. 

Butter Taffy. — One tablespoonful of vinegar, one cupful of 
sugar, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, and a piece of butter 
the size of an egg. When done, add a little soda. 

Cream Chocolates. — For the creams, boil two cupfuls of 
white sugar and one-half cupful of milk for five minutes ; 
add one teaspoonful of vanilla, then beat until stiff enough 
to handle and make into drops. 

For the chocolate, take three-quarters of a half-pound cake 
of Baker's chocolate, grate and steam over the teakettle. 
Drop the creams when hard, one at a time, into the hot 
chocolate, using two forks to take them out quickly ; set 
the drop on one fork on the bottom, using the other fork to 
scrape the chocolate off the cream ; gently slip the drop 
upon a buttered dish. If, when cool, the drops stick to the 
dish, hold it over the steam of the teakettle for an instant. 

Chocolate Creams. — Inside : Two cupfuls of sugar ; one cup- 
ful of water ; one and a half tablespoonfuls of arrow-root ; 
one teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix the ingredients, except the 
vanilla ; let them boil from five to eight minutes ; stir all the 
time. After this is taken from the fire, stir until it comes to 
a cream. When it is nearly smooth, add the vanilla and 
make the cream into balls. 

Outside : Melt a half pound of Baker's chocolate, but do 
not add water to it. Roll the cream balls into the chocolate 
while it is warm. 



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Cream Walnuts. — Two cupfuls sugar, two-thirds cupful 
water. Boil without stirring until it will spin a thread \ 
flavor with vanilla. Set off into a dish with a little cold 
water in it ; stir briskly until white and creamy. Have the 
walnuts shelled ; make the cream into small, round cakes 
with your fingers ; press half a walnut on either side, and 
drop into sifted granulated sugar. 

Cream Dates. — For cream dates, take fresh California dates, 
remove the stones, and fill the centre of dates with the same 
cream as used in cream walnuts. Drop into sugar. 

Peanut Candy. — Boil one scant pint of molasses until it 
hardens in cold water. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of vanilla, 
then one teaspoonful of soda, dry. Lastly, the shelled pea- 
nuts, taken from four quarts measured before shelling. 
Turn out into shallow pans well buttered, and press it down 
smooth with a wooden spoon. 

Philadelphia Groundnut Cakes. — Boil two pounds of light 
brown sugar in a preserving kettle, with enough water to 
wet it thoroughly and form a sirup. Have ready a quarter 
of a peck of groundnuts (peanuts). When the sugar begins 
to boil, throw in the white of an egg to clear it. Skim and 
try by dropping a little into cold water to see if brittle or 
done. When it is brittle, remove from the fire, and stir in 
the nuts. Drop on wet plates, free from grease. The white 
of egg may be omitted. 

Gum Drops. — Dissolve one pound of gum arabic in one and 
a half pints of water; strain and add one pound of refined 
sugar; beat until the sugar is entirely dissolved. Flavor to 
taste, and add coloring if desired. Then evaporate with a 
slow heat until the mass is thick as honey. Have a shallow 
box, or dish of fine starch ; in this make a series of dents 
with a rounded stick, the size desired for the gum drops. 
Into each of these indentations drop from a spout, or a 



CANDIES. 



247 



spoon, just enough of the thickened mass to fill the cavity, 
then set away in a warm place till the drops become suffi- 
ciently set to allow handling. This may require several 
days. 

Jujube Paste. — Dissolve gum arabic, and add sugar as for 
gum drops. Evaporate till very thick, and while still warm 
flavor and pour out into shallow tin pans to cool. 

Fig Paste. — Chop up one pound of figs, and boil in a pint 
of water till reduced to a soft pulp. Strain through a fine 
sieve, and add three pounds of sugar. Evaporate over boil- 
ing water till the paste becomes stiff, then pour it into a 
mold of wooden strips tied together. When cool, cut into 
squares ; sugar each well, and put away for use. Flavors 
may be added to taste, or fresh fruits may be mingled with 
the paste. 

Peppermint Drops. — Mix granulated sugar with enough 
water to form a paste, and put it to boil in a saucepan hav- 
ing a lip from which the contents can be poured or dropped. 
Allow it come almost, but not entirely, to a boil. Stir con- 
tinually. Allow it to cool a little, and flavor to taste with 
strong essence of peppermint. Then drop the mass on 
sheets of tin or of white paper. To drop it properly, allow 
just enough to gather at the lip of the saucepan, and then 
stroke it off with a piece of stiff wire. They should dry in 
a warm place. 



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XX.— INVALID DIET. 

invalids need the best of diet j what invalid diet should 
furnish; "sick-diet kitchens;" home cooking for the 
sick, thirty recipes for sick-room diet. 

WHAT is more disgusting to an invalid than to be 
served with a liberal supply of food adapted to a 
laboring man or to a person in robust health? Deli- 
cate appetites need to be delicately appealed to with dainty 
dishes, nicely served. But these dishes must be nourishing 
and easily digested. In short, the problem in sick-room 
diet is, how to furnish the patient the most valuable nutri- 
tion in the pleasantest form, and with the least tax upon his 
enfeebled powers. 

To meet this need, organized movements have been made 
in many cities in the line of" Sick-Diet Kitchens." Benevo- 
lent contributions and skilled work are the corner-stones of 
these institutions. The foods are well prepared by compe- 
tent hands. The sick who choose to purchase delicacies 
which can be relied on, can find them at these places- 
Those who are too poor to purchase, but who are deserving, 
can have them free. Instruction concerning diet for the sick 
is given also. 

But many cannot reach such establishments, and do not 
care to if they can ; hence the chapter of directions given 
below. If anywhere in cookery good materials and skillful 
manipulation are of value it is in cooking for the sick. 

RECIPES. 

Beef Tea. — One pound of lean beef, cut into small pieces. 
Pvit into a jar without a drop of water, cover tightly, set in 

248 



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249 



a pot of cold water. Heat gradually to a boil, and continue 
this steadily for three or four hours, until the meat is like 
white rags and the juice all drawn out. Season with salt to 
taste, and when cold, skim. The patient will often prefer 
this ice-cold. 

Beef Tea, No. 2. — Take lean, juicy beef, chopped very finely ; 
cover with cold water, and set on back of the range for two 
hours ; then draw forward, allowing it to heat gradually ; 
then boil for five minutes. Season and strain. 

Mutton Broth. — One pound of lean mutton, cut small; one 
quart cf water, cold ; one tablespoonful of rice or barley, 
soaked in a very little warm water; four tablespoonfuls 
of milk, salt and pepper, with a little chopped parsley. 
Boil the meat, unsalted, in the water, keeping it closely 
covered, until it falls to pieces. Strain it out, add the soaked 
barley or rice; simmer half an hour, stirring often; stir in 
the seasoning and the milk, and simmer five minutes after it 
heats up well, taking care it does not burn. Serve hot. with 
cream crackers. 

Chicken Broth. — Proceed precisely as above, but substitute 
chicken for mutton. 

Chicken Jelly. — Haifa raw chicken, pounded with a mallet, 
bones and meat together ; plenty of cold water to cover it 
well, about a quart. Heat slowly in a covered vessel, and 
let it simmer until the meat is in white rags and the liquid 
reduced one-half. Strain and press, first through a colan- 
der, then through a coarse cloth. Salt to taste, and pepper 
if you think best; return to the fire, and simmer five min- 
utes longer. Skim when cool. Give to the patient cold — 
just from the ice — with unleavened wafers. Keep on the 
ice, or make into sandwiches by putting the jelly between 
thin slices of bread spread lightly with butter. 

Soft Boiled Eggs. — Put in a pan of boiling water, and set on 
a part of the range where they will not boil for several min- 



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utes. At the end of that time they will be like jelly, pei 
fectly soft, but beautifully done, and quite digestible by even 
weak stomachs. 

Egg Gruel. — Beat the yelk of one egg with one tablespoon- 
ful of sugar; pour one teacupful of boiling water on it; add 
the white of the egg beaten to a froth, with any seasoning 
or spice desired. To be taken warm. 

Raw Egg. — Break a fresh egg into a glass, beat until very 
light, sweeten to taste, and add two tablespoonfuls of port 
wine, then beat again. 

Egg Cream. — Beat a raw egg to a stiff froth ; add a table- 
spoonful of white sugar and a half wineglass of good black- 
berry wine ; add half a glass of cream ; beat together 
thoroughly, and use at once. 

Indian-meal Gruel. — One tablespoonful of fine Indian-meal, 
mixed smooth with cold water and a saltspoonful of salt ; 
pour upon this a pint of boiling water and turn into a sauce- 
pan to boil gently for half an hour ; thin it with boiling 
water if it thickens too much, and stir frequently ; when it 
is done, a tablespoonful of cream or a little new milk may 
be put in to cool it after straining, but if the patient's stom- 
ach is weak it is best without either. Some persons like it 
sweetened and a little nutmeg added, but to many it is more 
palatable plain. 

Oatmeal Gruel. — Soak a handful of oatmeal over night in 
water, in order that the acid gases which oatmeal contains 
may be withdrawn. Pour off the water, and add a pint of 
fresh ; stir it well, add salt, and boil an hour and a half. 
This is much used, prepared in this way, by dyspeptics. 

Sago. — Soak and wash it well ; add a pint of water, a little 
salt, and boil till clear. Add lemon-juice or wine, if 
permitted. 

Arrow-root Jelly. — Boil a pint of water with a few bits of 



IX VALID DIET. 



2oi 



cinnamon or yellow rind of lemon ; stir into it two table* 
spoonfuls of arrow-root, dissolved in a little water ; boil ten 
minutes ; strain, salt, and season with sugar, wine, and nut- 
meg, if proper. 

Arrow-root Broth. — Put half a pint of water into a sauce- 
pan ; add a little lemon-juice, sugar and nutmeg, and a very 
little salt. Boil it up, and stir in a teaspoonful of dissolved 
arrow-root ; boil five minutes. It should be taken warm 
and be very thin. 

Cracked Wheat. — To one quart of hot water take one small 
teacupful of cracked wheat and a little salt ; boil slowly for 
half an hour, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Serve 
with sugar and cream or new milk. 

Cracker Panada. — Six Boston crackers, split ; two table- 
spoonfuls of white sugar, a good pinch of salt, and a little 
nutmeg; enough boiling water to cover them well. Split the 
crackers, and pile in a bowl in layers, salt and sugar scat- 
tered among them. Cover with boiling water and set on 
the hearth, with a close top over the bowl, for at least an 
hour. The crackers should be almost clear and soft as jelly, 
but not broken. Eat from the bowl with more sugar 
sprinkled in. 

Bread Panada. — Set a little water on the fire in a very 
clean saucepan ; add a glass of wine, if allowed, some sugar, 
nutmeg, and lemon-peel. The moment it boils up stir in a 
few crumbs of stale baker's loaf. Let it boil very fast for 
five minutes. It should be only thick enough to drink. 

Chicken Panada.— Boil a chicken ; take a few bits of the 
breast and pound fine in a mortar. Season it with a little 
salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a bit of lemon-peel ; boil gently 
till a little thick, but so that it can be drank. 

Soft Toast. — Some invalids like this very much indeed, and 
nearly all do when it is nicely made. Toast well, but not 



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too brown, a couple of thin slices of bread; put them on a 
warm plate and pour over boiling water ; cover quickly with 
another plate of the same size, and drain the water off; re- 
move the upper plate, butter the toast, put it in the oven 
one minute, and then cover again with a hot plate and serve 
at once. 

Milk Porridge. — Two cupfuls of best oatmeal, two cupfuls 
of water, two cupfuls of milk. Soak the oatmeal over night 
in the water; strain in the morning, and boil the water half 
an hour. Put in the milk with a little salt, boil up well, and 
serve. Eat warm, with or without powdered sugar. 

Thickened Milk. — With a little milk, mix smooth a table- 
spoonful of flour and a pinch of salt. Pour upon it a quart 
of boiling milk, and when both are thoroughly mingled put 
all back into the saucepan and boil up once, being careful 
not to burn, and stirring all the time to keep it perfectly 
smooth and free from lumps. Serve with slices of dry toast. 
It is excellent in diarrhoea, and becomes a specific by scorch- 
ing the flour before mixing with the milk. 

Toast Water. — Toast stale bread until quite brown, but do 
not burn it ; put it into a large bowl, and pour over it boil- 
ing water ; let it stand for an hour or so, strain, and put in 
a piece of ice before drinking. 

Barley Water. — Soak one pint of barley in lukewarm water 
for a few minutes ; then drain off the water. Put the barley 
in three quarts of cold water and cook slowly until the 
barley is quite soft, skimming occasionally. This barley 
water, when cold, flavor with a little jelly or lemonade. 

Rice Milk. — Pick and wash the rice carefully ; boil it in 
water until it swells and softens ; when the water is partly 
boiled away, add some milk. It may be boiled entirely in 
milk, by setting the vessel in which the rice is in boiling 
water ; sweeten with white sugar and season with nutmeg 
It also may be thickened with a little flour or beaten egg. 



INVALID DIET. 



253 



Flaxseed Tea. — One-half pound of flaxseed, one-half pound 
of rock candy, and three lemons pared and sliced ; pour 
over this two quarts of boiling water ; let it stand until very 
cold ; strain before drinking. This is good for a cough. 

Appleade. — Cut two large apples in slices, and pour on 
them one pint of boiling water ; strain well and sweeten. 
Ice it before drinking. 

Apple Water. — Roast two large, tart apples until they are 
soft. Put them in a pitcher, pour a pint of cold water on 
them, and let them stand in a cool place for an hour. No 
sweetening is needed. This drink will be found very 
refreshing if the patient have fever or eruptive diseases. 

Roast Apples. — Good-sized, juicy, tart apples are best for 
roasting. Wipe them clean, and put in a slow oven, allow- 
ing an hour for the work of roasting. When entirely done, 
sift fine, white sugar over them, and serve warm or cold, as 
desired. 

Wine Whey. — Sweeten one pint of milk to taste, and when 
boiling throw in two wineglassfuls of sherry ; when the curd 
forms, strain the whey through a muslin bag into tumblers 

Blackberry Sirup. — One quart of blackberry juice, one 
pound of sugar, one-half ounce of nutmeg, one-half ounce 
ot cinnamon, one-fourth of an ounce of cloves, one-fourth 
of an ounce of allspice. 



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ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS 

BY 

MARION HARLAND 



HOW WE MAKE HOUSEKEEPING HARDER. 

BY way of establishing a frank and friendly under- 
standing between writer and reader, we will admit at the 
beginning of our talk that nothing can make American 
housekeeping easy. At the same time, it is comforting 
to bear in mind that the easiest things are seldom the 
best things. There are many reasons why the woman 
who " runs a house " in this land and at this day should 
have more and severer duties to perform than a house- 
keeper in the same station and with the same means in 
Great Britain, or on the continent of Europe. It may 
reconcile our housewife to her lot and clear away a diffi- 
culty or two if we consider a few of these reasons. 

The newness of our nation runs through every depart- 
ment of life and labor. Nothing is firmly and definitely 
settled. The English farmer's wife cooks in the same 
kitchen and in the same sauce-pan that her mother used, 
and occupies exactly the same position filled by her 
grandmother. She has little new to learn, and she knows 
the old things well. If both ends meet and a tidy sum 
goes into the savings bank every year, she is contented. 
No thoughts of building a house twice as fine as that 

2 54 



MARION HAKLAND. 



2 55 



over her head keep her awake at night. So long as her 
boys have steady work, and she sees her girls well-behaved, 
industrious, and like the Scottish cottier's Jeannie, 
" respectit like the lave," her ambition for them is grati- 
fied. 

We hear a vast deal said of the evil effects of American 
worry upon American women in crippling their energies 
and shortening their lives. Comparatively little is written 
or spoken of the element of restlessness that sets worry 
a-going. The wife of the farmer, or mechanic, or clerk, 
or small storekeeper, never settles in her own mind just 
where she belongs. To use a slang phrase — "she never 
gets there." Consequently, she never finds a resting- 
place for mind and body. By the time her house is 
decently furnished she begins to contrive how it can be 
made "smart" as the English women would say. The 
American uses a more objectionable word when she calls 
it "genteel." The girls take music-lessons, and a piano 
must be bought. Her children have playfellows who 
dress well, and she would not have her little ones seem 
mean or shabby. Everybody who is anybody has two 
parlors. Our housewife would do her own washing and 
ironing, and take in " shop-work " privately, yes ! and sit 
up late at night to do it, rather than not have the pair of 
useless, dreary rooms on her first-floor that go by that 
name. 

She lives, for the most part, in the basement. Her 
work is there, and the semi-cellar used as a dining-room 
is the family parlor when there is no company. It keeps 
the children's dirt in one place instead of letting it be 
strewed all over the house ; it is cool in summer and 
warm in winter, and from her afternoon sewing-chair by 
the front windows she can have an eye on " the girl " 
and the girl's company. 

I wonder, sometimes, what would be the effect upon 



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our bustling, worried housewife, were she to determine, 
once for all, just what her sphere in life is, and make up 
her mind to fill the station to which God has called her, 
full, before straining and panting to climb to a higher. 
When will we study the old, sadly-true, and neglected 
lesson that it is not the duty or trial to-day that wears 
us out, but planning and hoping and dreading for to- 
morrow. 

Again, our housekeeper, living, as she does, always a 
little ahead of her actual position and of her strength, if 
not ahead of her means, does not keep enough servants, 
considering the size of her house and family. While it is 
true that the more "help " one has of the kind furnished 
by intelligence-offices and the " wants " columns of the 
daily papers, the worse off she is apt to be, there is cruelty 
to herself in undertaking to do all the work of a house- 
hold that must be kept abreast of the neighbor's. It is 
cruelty of a kind that kills wives and mothers oftener 
than poverty and want. Here, again, the English house- 
wife who lends a hand in her own work is more sensible 
than the American. If she live in a three-story house, 
containing kitchen, dining-room, two parlors, six bed- 
rooms with bathroom, cellar, and ten closets, the British 
matron would have two stout maids to assist her in keep- 
ing the premises in order. Our ambitious countrywoman 
prides herself upon getting along with one girl, "engaged 
for general housework," and not infrequently employs no 
regular servant. A woman " comes in " to do washing 
and ironing every week, and a semi-occasional day's clean- 
ing. The mistress of the establishment takes all the rest 
upon her single pair of hands. Nothing is neglected that 
could contribute to the material comfort of her family. 
They have enough to eat, drink, and wear, and are well 
lodged in a respectable, often a luxurious house, clean 
from top to bottom. Of this you may make sure. No 



MARION HARLAND. 



2 57 



other domicile is so spick-and-span as that where " mothei 
does for herself." 

(How often the phrase may be otherwise and mournfully 
applied, cannot but occur to one familiar with the limita- 
tions of flesh and blood). 

Her house gets to be as truly a part of herself as the 
shell is of the snail. No cloudy windows, no dusty cor- 
ners, no drifts of " fluff " under beds and tables while she 
is up and around. She may be the soul of kindness to 
others, she is unmerciful to herself. There is never a 
moment in the day when she does not believe that she 
could take one more step if it were necessary. She has a 
way of saying that she " doesn't mind work " and " knows 
better than anybody can tell her what she can do and 
bear." Her thumb and finger are (figuratively) never off 
the screw that regulates her nervous system, and she is 
always ready to give it one more twist. 

This is, strictly speaking, not housewifery, but slavery, 
and of a worse sort than ever disgraced San Domingo, or 
found its way into " Uncle Tom's Cabin." The nominal 
slave was an irresponsible machine whose care for his 
work ceased when he dropped his hoe in the field, or 
washed up the last dish at night. He carried no anxiety 
to his pillow, and ate his meat in careless security. Pro- 
viding, paying for what was provided, and looking out 
for the future were the master's business. The American 
house-mother plans and performs, and takes consequences 
in her single self. Her brain works, her heart palpitates, 
her nerves are as terse as violin strings, while she toils 
up to the full measure of her strength through tasks that 
should be done by coarser hands. She is a maid-of-all- 
work, wife, mother, business manager, and housekeeper; 
she hears the lessons her children learn at home for the 
salaried school-teacher ; she belongs to the church sewing- 
society ; she teaches in the Sunday-school ; she pays and 
i7 



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258 ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 

receives calls, and is ambitious to see her husband a rich 
man some day. Then, she will keep her carriage, ride 
where she now walks, and rest instead of slaving-. The 
vision is sometimes fulfilled. Oftener, her rest is in 
the tomb, and another wife, younger, more attractive, 
and more daintily bred, enters into her labors. 

It was a woman of this stamp who hoped that " Gabriel 
would toot softly when he passed her grave, if the end of 
the world should come in less than a thousand years. 
She couldn't get rested out in less time." 

The American matron is a wonderful creation and not 
to be found out of our favored country ; but bones, 
blood, muscle, and nerve were never made that could 
bear, without injury, the life she sets for herself when she 
undertakes to do all the work of such an American home 
as she will have. 

Another thing that makes her load grievous and hardly 
to be borne, even when she " tries to favor her strength " 
by means of hired help and modern conveniences, is lack 
of proper training for the housekeeper's business. 

The life led by our girls up to the time of marriage is 
accountable for much of this deficiency. If mothers were 
bent upon disqualifying their daughters for what probably 
lies before them, they could not go more zealously to 
work to secure the evil end. Our public and private 
schools and colleges " keep up the standard " so fiercely 
that she who would rank well in her class has not time 
to make a pudding or to hem a handkerchief during nine 
months of the year, and needs the other three for 
recuperation. After graduation, the girl's harness is 
stripped off, and she is turned into the social pasture for 
a run that lasts until she is caught and noosed for life. 

" Work and trouble will come soon enough. Let the 
young things have their day," is talk that finds as much 
favor among the poor as among the wealthy classes. 



MARION HARLAND. 



2 59 



" What do you mean to do with that nice girl of 
yours ? " I asked of my washerwoman, who had worked 
hard during ten years of widowhood to bring up her boy 
and girl respectably. " She must be about fifteen — 
isn't she ? " 

" Sixteen, mem. She's small, an' not strong for her 
years. But she's a smart scholard at the school, they say, 
an' as handy with her fingers as you could wish to see." 

" She would make a capital lady's maid," proceeded I. 
" Or would you prefer to apprentice her to the milliner's 
or dressmaker's trade ? " 

The mother looked hurt and wistful. 

" Indade, mem, an' it's sorry I'd be to see her a servant 
to anybody, or in anything but a ladylike business, where 
she could be her own mistress. She's wishful to be a 
music-teacher, or the loikes o' that. She's never had to 
put her hand to dirthy wurrk, — I'd a' rubbed me own 
fingers to the bone first." 

She had lived in this free country eighteen years, quite 
long enough to imbibe national ideas as to kitchen and 
housework. Her daughter left school at sixteen. She 
had a smattering of algebra, history, rhetoric, chemistry, 
and English literature. She could bound every country 
in Asia and in Africa, and give the capital city of every 
European nation ; could draw maps and recite chronolo- 
gical tables, and " had had three quarters on the piano." 
She could not have made a loaf of bread or a gown for 
herself to save her soul, but was slim of figure, with a 
complexion like a paraffine candle. At seventeen she 
married a journeyman carpenter, who took to drink in half 
a year's time because he "couldn't have things as a man 
had a right to expect when he comes home after a hard 
day's work." At twenty, a sickly, unhappy slattern, with 
two puny children, was more than half supported by the 
daily earnings of her faithful mother. 



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The wife of a well-to-do mechanic told me in the pres- 
ence of her daughter, who was to be married the next 
week, that " Lucy doesn't like to have me say it, but she 
has never done a day's wash in her life. Ever since she 
left school four years ago, it's been go, go, go ! all the 
time. Up late at night, and sleeping half the day, and 
then getting ready to go out again in the evening! It's 
to be hoped she'll sober down when she has a home and 
husband to look after." 

A young woman who had such home training should 
have been able to employ a corps of competent servants 
and a housekeeper to look after them. Lucy went to live 
in a neat flat, furnished by her father, put out her wash- 
ing, and valiantly undertook to do her own work. With- 
out meaning to be extravagant she wasted her husband's 
income, and worried him and herself with continual mis- 
takes and expensive failures. He grew savage and in- 
tolerant of the inefficiency which cost him dear. She grew 
wretched, peevish, and " delicate " under the pressure of 
tasks too heavy for her soft muscles, and cares that ex- 
cruciated her nerves. The doctors— another expense— said 
she " had no stamina ; " gossips shook their heads over 
" the way girls have of breaking down early." Eighteen 
months ended the unequal struggle. She and her baby 
were buried together. 

The untaught child had done her best to repair the fatal 
blunders in her education. So sure am I of this in her 
and that of a thousand others that my indignation ex- 
pends itself upon the inconsiderate, or weakly indulgent, 
or ambitious mothers who let daughters waste in useless 
follies time that should be given, in part, at least, to 
diligent preparation for the calling to which they were 
directed by nature and public sentiment. Not one girl in 
ten thousand expect or is expected to pass all her life in 
the home of her girlhood. What censure is too harsh for 



MA RIO X IIARLAXD. 



261 



the parent who, ignoring this solemn truth, fails to in- 
struct her in the practical details of the profession she is 
almost certain to enter ? 

WAYS AND WAYS OF WORK. 

Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, in a witty disquisition, 
in The Minister's Wooing, upon the New England house- 
wife's " faculty " strengthens the fallacy that this same 
" faculty " of accomplishing work without fussiness and 
waste of time is altogether a natural gift. If a woman is 
so unfortunate as not to have been born with it, Mrs. 
Stowe implies, and popular opinion assents, that there is 
no use in attempting to acquire it. 

ONE WAY. 

" If I only had your knack of turning off work, I should 
not be forever in the suds ! " exclaimed one woman en- 
viously to another. " As it is, I never get ahead of what 
I am actually compelled to do. My work drives me con- 
tinually with a cat-o'-nine-tails. I think it will whip me 
into my grave ! " 

I watched this scourged sister with compassionate 
curiosity, and made up my mind that faculty and fate 
had nothing to do with her chronic state of backwardness, 
any more than destiny branded a certain unstable king 
ot Britain as " Ethelred the Unready." She worked with- 
out forecast or management. As the old-fashioned people 
-would put it, she did not make her head save her heels. 
She had a general idea when she got out of bed in the morn- 
ing that such and such pieces of work were to be grappled 
with during the day, but none as to the order in which 
they were to be attacked. She " went for them " as 
they presented themselves, as a wrecker, up to his knees 
in the surf, snatches at flotsam and jetsam as they float 



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262 



ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 



toward him. To change the figure — she knit the sleeve 
for the day's wear loosely, dropping stitches every now 
and then, and letting them run down all the way to the 
bottom. Her duties did not " dovetail " into each other. 
Such a woman, after kindling the kitchen-fire, would 
linger to watch it, take off the lids and open the front of 
the range to make sure that it burned, until it was under 
full headway ; then fill the kettle, and try three or four 
places on the stove before satisfying herself that it was 
in the best position ; it would never occur to her, if she 
had three dishes to prepare, that she could divide her 
attention so judiciously between them that none would 
suffer. She would take time to set the table while the 
water was heating, and the potatoes boiling, and the bis- 
cuits baking, and plates getting safely warmed in the 
open oven, she keeping, meanwhile, her temper steady, 
her head cool, and her wits on the alert for something 
else she could clip into any chance crevice of time. She 
made one journey to the linen-shelves for the table-cloth 
and another for the napkins, and, instead of lifting the 
silver-basket from the buffet to the table when the silver 
was to go on, went backward and forward until she had 
all she wanted. In leaving one room in her housewifely 
rounds, she did not bethink herself to glance around to 
see if there were anything to be carried to another apart- 
ment, thus saving her a second journey to this part of 
the house. 

She counted time by hours ; the systematic economist 
of strength and time reckons by minutes, and knows 
what becomes of each. 



ANOTHER WAY. 




A mother who had the habit of commiserating herself 
for being hunted incessantly by duties, changed the order 



MARION HARLAND. 



263 



of her life, and probably added years to it by an ingenious 
scheme for correcting the foible. She hung a tablet by 
her side and recorded on it the hour and minute at which 
she completed each task, and the time at which she began 
the next, with a memorandum of how she spent the 
intervening space. 

I give her conclusion in her own language : 

" I found that sometimes ten minutes, sometimes half 
an hour, would elapse, and adding up these odd minutes 
I found that, on some days, the time I lost was really 
longer than the time employed. I would let myself be 
attracted, after I finished a piece of work, by a few words 
in a newspaper, pick it up and read it standing, or, look- 
ing through the window, I lingered to watch anything 
that caught my eye, or I would run out to gather a 
flower or a bouquet. I envied women who could give an 
occasional hour to work among the flowers. HI snatched 
the time to do it out of season and place, it gave me no 
pleasure. It only added to my driven feeling. 

" I kept my memorandum for a month. By that time 
1 had learned to guard against the little foxes that had 
stolen my leisure." 

A good definition of " dirt " was that given by the 
school-boy, who said it was " something that ought not 
to be where it was." Wasted time may be defined as 
that spent in doing nothing in particular. 

From the other side of the water we get a word de- 
scriptive of one way of not getting work done. I have an 
excellent matron in my mind who never has a minute's 
rest all day long, and leaves more undone by night than 
seemed to lie before her when she awoke in the morning. 
She is always on the run, — and never'gets anywhere. If 
she sets out to dust a room she espies a book that ought 
to be in the library. On her way downstairs she lays down 
the book on the landing to wipe off a streaked window- 



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264 



ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 



pane. A finger-smear on the window-seat attracts hef 
notice, and off she goes to the kitchen for water, cloth 
and sapolio. These once in hand, she is in for an hour's 
" good scrubbing," for one discovery leads to another. 
And so the time slips by. 

She and her sister " potterers" have no sense of the 
right proportion of duties. That which starts up right 
under their noses, however unimportant, drives all the 
rest out of the field. Represent to her that this or that 
could wait until her hands and mind are freer, and you 
are told that her " rule is never to put off until to-morrow 
what can be as well done to-day," that " whatsoever the 
hand finds to do should be done with might," and that 
she " cannot reconcile it to her conscience to slight any- 
thing; what is worth doing at all is worth doing well." 
Thanks to her subjection to these mouldy and one-sided- 
saws, she is never on time, and the loose ends of duties 
begun and never done are carelessly flapping in other 
people's faces. 

Happy is the working-force that does not enroll a 
" potterer" among its members. 

AND STILL ANOTHER. 

What do I mean by " systematic housekeeping ! " 
Briefly this — that our housewife should think over and 
classify what she has to do each day, and decide before 
beginning the tasks when and how they would best be 
done. That, having set about them, she should go right 
on, "without haste and without waste," until the tale 
of labor is finished. If a clash of duties or hours befall 
her, let her not be dismayed, but bring to her help the 
business principle of " profit and loss." When she has- 
done her best, nothing more is required by conscience, 
or Him to whom conscience gives in her report. 



tu 



MARION HAN LAND. 



26 5 



I had a peep once at the memorandum-book of a sys- 
tematic woman. One page stood thus : 

"8-9 A. M. While washing breakfast dishes, remember 
to hear Rob's history-lesson. Put on bones for soup. 
Tapioca to soak. Speak to man about cleaning cellar. 
Look over table-linen. 

"9-10. Dust parlors; water flowers. Look up quota- 
tion in Ruskin. Remind Annie of mantel-mirror. 

"10-11. Write letters. Mend John's overcoat. 

"11-12. Make blanc-mange and cake. 

" 1 2-1 P. M. Appointment at Industrial School." 

She was an exceptionally busy person ; actively en- 
gaged in philanthropic work and church societies, besides 
being a devoted wife and mother, and much sought after 
in society. The quantity of work she " turned off "was 
proverbial, but less remarkable than the ease with which 
she appeared to accomplish it. I objected to the memo- 
randum-book on the ground that dependence upon it 
might weaken the memory. 

" On the contrary," I was told, " it leaves memory free 
for better things. Every entry there saves me a wrinkle 
or a gray hair. I bestow ten minutes hard thought upon 
the list every morning, while I am dressing. Then my 
brain is at liberty. If I did not do this, something would 
be jostled out of the right place, some Peter robbed to 
pay Paul." 

Comparing daily work to wall building, we may say 
that she suits her stones one to another, and lays them in 
cement, while our potterer is all the while pulling down 
the wall she has raised, to get at a stone she has put in 
the wrong place, or which she fancies she could dispose 
more advantageously. 



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266 ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 






THE FAMILY PURSE. 

THE gossips at a noted watering-place, where I once 
spent a summer, found infinite amusement in the ways 
of a married heiress, whose fortune was settled so securely 
upon herself by her father that her husband could not 
touch the bulk of it with or without her consent. Her 
spouse was an ease-loving man of fashion, and accom- 
modated himself gracefully to the order of things. She 
loved him better than she loved her money, for she 
" kept " him well and grudged him nothing. It was in 
accordance with her wishes that he made no pretence of 
business or profession. " Why should he, when she had 
enough for both ? " she urged, amiably. His handsome 
allowance was paid on the first of every month and she 
exacted no account of expenditures. Yet she contrived 
to make him and herself the laughing-stock of the place 
by her naive ignorance of the truth that the situation was 
peculiar. She sportively rated her lord in the hearing 
of others, for extravagance in dress, horses, and entertain- 
ments ; affected to rail at the expense of " keeping a 
husband " and, now and then, playfully threatened to 
" cut off supplies " if he did not do this or that. In short, 
with unintentional satire, she copied to the letter the 
speech and tone of the average husband to his dependent 
wife. 

" Only that, and nothing more." Her purse-pride was 
obvious, but as inoffensive as purse-pride can be. She 
lacked refinement, but she did not lack heart. She would 
have resented the imputation that she reduced her good- 
looking, well-clothed, well-fed, well-mounted " Charley " 
to a state of vassalage against which any man of spirit 
would have rebelled. He knew that he could have what- 
ever it was in her power to bestow, to the half of her 



MARION HARLAND. 



:Gj 



kingdom. Her complaints of his prodigality meant as 
little as her menace of retrenchment, and nobody compre- 
hended this better than he. The owner of the money- 
bags is entitled by popular verdict to his or her jest. 
Her pretended railing was " clear fun." 

I had not thought of this odd couple, and their odd 
ways in twenty years, until I read " A Painful Problem," 
in a weekly publication. 

There are certain subjects upon which each of us is 
afraid to speak for fear of losing temper, and becoming 
vehement. This matter of " The Family Purse" is one 
of the few topics in all the range of theory and practice, 
concerning which I feel the necessity of putting on curb 
and bridle when I have to deal with it, and conscience 
urges just dealings with all parties. In the published 
volume which bears the same title as these informal 
* l Talks," I put upon record two paragraphs which I crave 
leave to repeat here : 

" If I were asked, ' What, to the best of your belief, is 
the most prolific and general source of heart-burnings 
contentions, harsh judgment, and secret unhappiness 
among respectable married people who keep up the show, 
-even to themselves, of reciprocal affection ? " my answer 
would not halt for an instant. 

" ' The crying need of a right mutual understanding with 
respect to the right ownership of the family income.' " 

The example of the good old Friend, cited in " A 
Painful Problem," who in giving his daughters in marriage 
stipulated that each should be paid weekly, without 
asking for it, a certain share of her husband's income, is 
refreshing as indicating what one husband had learned 
by his own experience. It goes no further in the absence 
of proof that the sons-in-law kept the pledge imposed 
upon them as suitors, or that, in keeping it, they did not 
■cause their respective wives to wish themselves dead, and 



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out of the way of gibe and grudge, every time the pre- 
scribed tax was doled out to them. 

Nor do I admit the force of E. W. B.'s implication 
that the crookedness in this matter of family finances is 
" separation and hostility between the sexes, brought 
about by the advancement and equality of woman." 
Wives, in all ages and in all countries, have felt the painful 
injustice of virtual pauperism, and struggled vainly for 
freedom. The growth toward emancipation in the case 
of most of them amounts merely to the liberty to groan 
in print and to cry aloud in women's convocations. If 
the yoke is easier upon the wifely neck in 1897 than it was 
in 1840, it is because women know more of business- 
methods, and are more competent to the management of 
money, and some husbands, appreciating the change for 
the better, are willing to commit funds to their keeping. 
The disposition of fathers, brothers, and husbands to 
regard the feminine portion of their families as lovely dead- 
weights, was justified in a degree by the Lauras and 
Matildas, who clung like wet cotton-wool to the limbs 
of their natural protectors. Dependence was reckoned 
among womanly graces, and insisted upon as such in 
Letters to Young Ladies, The Young Wife's Manual, A 
Father's Legacy to his Daughters, and other valuable con- 
tributions to the family library, a half-a-century ago. 
Julia assured wooing Adolphus that absolute dependence, 
even for the bread she should eat, and breath she should 
draw, would be delight and privilege. Julia, as wife, 
fretted and plained and shook her " golden chains inlaid 
with down," when married Adolphus took her at her 
word. 

It is surprising that both parties were so slow in find- 
ing out how false is the theory and how injurious the 
practice of the cling-and-twine and-hang-upon school. 

From my window, as I write, I see an object-lesson 



MARION HARLAND. 



269 



that pertinently illustrates the actual state of affairs in 
many a home. At the root of a stately cedar sprang up, 
twenty years ago, a shoot of that most hardy and beauti- 
ful of native creepers, the wild woodbine, or American 
ivy. It crept steadily upward, laying hold of branch 
and twig, casting, first, tendrils, then ropes, to make 
sure its hold, — a thing of beauty all summer, a coat of 
many colors in autumn, until it reached the top of the 
tree. To-day, the only vestige of cedar-individuality 
that remains to sight, is in the trunk, the bare branches, 
stripped of all slight twigs, and at the extremity of one 
of these, a few tufts of evergreen verdure, that proclaim 
" This was a tree." 

In the novels and poems which set forth the eternal 
fitness of the cling-twine-and-depend school, the vine is 
always feminine, the oak (or cedar?) masculine. Not one 
that I know of depicts the gradual strangling of the in- 
dependent tree by the depending parasite. 

Leaving the object-lesson to do its part, let us reason 
together calmly upon this vexed subject. When a man 
solemnly, in the sight of Heaven and human witnesses, 
endows his wife at the altar with his worldly goods, it is 
either a deed of gift, or an engagement to allow her to 
earn her living as honestly as he earns his, a pledge of 
an equal partnership in whatever he has or may acquire. 
That it is not an absolute gift is proved by his continued 
possession of his property and uncontrolled management 
of the same ; furthermore, by his custom of bestowing 
upon his wife such sums, and at such periods as best 
suit his convenience and pleasure — and that she will be 
properly grateful for lodging, board, and raiment. If he 
be liberal, her gratitude rises proportionably. If he be a 
churl, she must submit with Christian resignation. 

The deeper and juster significance of the much-derided 
clause is the second I have offered. " Live and let live," 



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270 ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 

is a motto that should begin, continue, and be best ex- 
emplified at home. The wife either earns an honorable 
livelihood, or she is a licensed mendicant. The man 
who, after a careful estimate of the services rendered 
by her who keeps the house, manages his servants, or 
does the work of the servants he does not hire ; who 
bears and brings up his children in comfort, respecta- 
bility, and happiness; who looks after his clothing and 
theirs ; nurses him and them in illness, and makes the 
world lovely for him in health, does not consider that 
his wife has paid her way thus far, and is richly enti- 
tled to all he has given or ever will give her, is not fit to 
conduct any business upon business principles. If he be 
sensible and candid, let him decide what salary he 
can afford to pay this most useful of his employees — and 
pay it as a debt, not a gratuity. The probability is that 
he will find that the sum justifies her in regarding her- 
self as a partner in his craft or profession, with a fair 
amount of working capital. 

There is but one equitable and comfortable way of 
relieving the husband from the charge and the fact of in- 
justice, and the wife from the sorer burden of conscious 
pauperism. She ought to have a stated allowance for 
household expenses, to be disbursed by herself, and, if 
he will it, to be accounted for to the master of the house, 
and a smaller, but sure sum which is paid to her as her 
very own, which she may appropriate as she likes. He 
should no more "give" her money, than he makes a 
present of his weekly wages to the porter who sweeps his 
store, or to the superintendent of his factory. The feel- 
ing that their gloves, underclothing, — everything that 
they wear, and the very bread that keeps life in their 
bodies, are gifts of grace from the husbands they serve 
in love and honor, has worn hundreds of spirited women 
into their graves, and made venal hypocrites of thou- 



MARION II A RL AND. 



271 



sands. The double-eagle laid in the palm of the woman 
whose home duties leave her no time for money-making, 
burns, sometimes, more hotly than the penny given to 
her who, for the first time, begs at the street-corner to 
keep herself from starving. 

The strangest of anomalies that have birth in a condi- 
tion of affairs which everybody has come to regard as 
altogether right and becoming, is that the wife whose 
handsome wedding-portion has been absorbed into her 
husband's business is as dependent upon his favor for 
her " keep " as she who brought no dot. She does not 
even draw interest upon the money invested. Is it to 
be wondered at that caustic critics of human nature and 
inconsistencies, catalogue marriage, for the wife, under the 
head of mendicancy? Would it not be phenomenal if 
women with eyes, and with brains behind the eyes, did 
not gird at the necessity of suing humbly for what really 
belongs to them ? 

I have known two, or at most three women, who 
averred that they " did not mind asking their husbands 
for money." Out of simple charity, I preferred to believe 
that they were untruthful to discounting their self-respect 
and delicacy to the extent implied by the assertion. Yet, 
the street-beggar gets used to plying his trade, and I may 
have been mistaken. 

Ella Marston of " A Painful Problem " is a type of a 
class, with whom injustice begets defiance. The woman 
who considers herself defrauded by present privations and 
what seem to her needless economies, loses sight, some- 
times, of what John keeps before him as the loadstar of 
his existence and endeavor; to wit, that toil and economy 
are for the common weal. He is not a miser for his in- 
dividual enrichment, nor does he plan with deliberate 
design for the shadowy wife. It is not to be denied that 
No. 2 often lives like a queen upon the wealth which No. I 



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272 



ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 




helped accumulate, killing herself in so doing. But John 
does not look so far as this. Much scrimping and hoard- 
ing may engender a baser love of money for money's self. 
In the outset of the task, and usually for all time, he 
means that wife and children shall have the full benefit of 
what he has heaped up in the confident belief that he 
knows who will gather with him. Men take longer views 
in these matters than women. To " draw money out of 
the business " is a form of speech to a majority of wives. 
To him whose household expenses overrun what he con- 
siders the bounds of reason, this " drawing " means harder 
work and to less purpose for months to come ; clipped 
wings of enterprise, and occasionally, loss of credit. He 
who has married a reasonably intelligent woman cannot 
make her comprehend this too soon. If he can enlist her 
sympathies in his plans for earning independence and 
wealth, he has secured a most valuable coadjutor. If he 
can show her that he is investing certain moneys which 
are due to her, in ways approved by her, which will aug- 
ment her private fortune, he will retain her confidence 
with her respect. 

Each of us likes to own something in his or her own 
right. The custom and prejudice that, since the aboli- 
tion of slavery, make wives the solitary exception to the 
rule that the laborer is worthy of his hire, are unworthy 
of a progressive age. The idea that such having and 
holding will alienate a good woman from the husband 
who permits it, degrades the sex. He whose manliness 
suffers by comparison with a level-headed, clear-eyed wife 
capable of keeping her own bank-account, makes apparent 
what a mistake she made when she married him. 



MARION II A RL AND. 



2 73 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



"MADE-OVERS." 

To a large and interesting class of women the Fashion 
Department of the family paper must be a mockery, often 
a source of vexation and pain. The glib descriptions of 
street, home, and party costumes, in which brocaded 
velvet trains, tabliers of passementerie, cloths heavy with 
applique embroidery or braiding, are mentioned as articles 
which every creature of feminine mold can procure, 
are worse than tantalizing to the girl whose last winter's 
costumes must be varied by the few yards of new mate- 
rial she can afford to buy, and the matron who has not 
lost the desire to keep up with the prevailing mode, yet 
has one-tenth to spend upon her attire that she had be- 
fore her marriage. 

It is altogether possible for either or both of these to 
have better taste in all details of costume than the rich 
men's daughters and wives, whose magnificent imported 
toilettes are copied by artists of repute for such period- 
icals as can pay for the " show." The inability to indulge 
correct taste, and gratify the love for the beautiful which 
is a part of her personality, is the cause of actual suffer- 
ing to a sensitive woman. Cheap, ill-fitting garments are 
to her positive humiliation ; a fetter upon freedom of ac- 
tion, grace of look and language. Reason as we will of 
the duty of the strong mind to rise above such trifles, 
there is moral strength in the consciousness of being well- 
dressed, while dowdyishness and dampened spirits are 
inseparable in one who knows how to dress well, and 
would do it if she had the opportunity and means. 

We cannot all be rich enough to array ourselves ex- 
actly as we would, but many a bright girl, or deft-fingered 
matron, might keep within easy range of elegance and 
fashion, by making the best use of her eyes, fingers, and 








MEMORANDUM 

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274 



ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS 



the materials already at hand, — provided these were in 
other shape than they appear to her discouraged senses 
when she unpacks and overhauls last winter's relics. The 
display is always unlovely, and worse than this, unlikely. 
Woolens are creased, velvets are crushed, silks are shiny, 
satins are wrinkled, and bonnets hopelessly out-of-date. 
This last item is invariable. A gown made in the height 
of an unremarkable fashion may do duty for two seasons 
without alteration — a bonnet never. The milliners see to 
that. They "must live." 

Before the heap of creased, wrinkled, crushed, shiny 
tangled, and antiquated Impracticables, even a brave 
spirit shrinks. Yet the dressmaker is due next week, and 
the overstrained allowance admits of just one new gown, 
with perhaps a cloak or jacket in place of the aged and 
utterly unpresentable wrap. 

Our Girl has a good social position. Whatever may be 
Miss Nouveau Riche's views as to the presumption of 
poor people pretending to be " in society," such things 
are, even in America. Our Girl will be invited to places 
where her elbows will touch the bared forearm of Miss 
Nouveau Riche ; she will eat at the same table, and dance 
in the same set with her and her jeweled compeers. It 
is natural, it is inevitable that, foreseeing this, Our Girl 
should shrink from the thought of shabbiness, and grow 
sick at the suggestion of cheap finery, — the imitations 
which she cannot be deluded into imagining " look just 
as well as the real article." 

In the hope that action may be a present relief from 
depression, and that, from renovation of material, may 
spring courage and hope, I ask serious consideration from 
my not rich reader of the simple directions herewith 
given for the crucial period of looking-and-making-over 
for the coming winter. 

The initial stage of the business is 



MARION HAKLAND. 



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MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



RIPPING. 

The outfit for this operation is a pair of sharp-pointed 
scissors and a generous stock of patience. Each stitch 
must be clipped, that the seams may come apart without 
being pulled. The sharp tug at the material that parts 
the breadth for half-a-yard at once, stretches the biased 
edges beyond remedy, if it does not tear selvages. Even 
skirt braids should be ripped off carefully. If the gar- 
ment is to be trimmed, separate every piece, no matter 
how small, from the rest. Careless rippers often reject 
the waist-front in which are the button-holes, as unavail- 
able. With your keen scissors, pare away carefully the 
ridged edges that are the feature of the " button-hole 
stitch," then, pick out the threads, one by one. Button- 
holes thus treated may be worked over again, or darned up 
so neatly that buttons or hooks can be sewed upon the 
places they occupied. 

The several portions of the garment ripped apart must 
be brushed free of dust and rid of all threads before any 
attempt is made to scour or press them. Neglect of this 
precaution makes grease-spots and other blemishes the 
worse by the addition of mud when they are dampened, 
while stray threads are ironed into the fabric. 

In removing trimming from hats, special pains must 
be taken not to stretch the edges of velvet, silk and satin. 





TO CLEAN WOOLEN GOODS. 

Unless the stuff be very much soiled, do not plunge it 
into the washtub, It may look well for a while after it 
is washed, but it will " take dirt " more easily, and roughen 
in wearing as it did not before it was cleaned. It is 




MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 




276 



ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 



sound economy to buy material which is the same on 
both sides, but even when the two sides are not alike, 
the reverse is often presentable as a " make-over." 

Lay each breadth and bit, singly, upon a table covered 
with a clean, folded sheet ; wash the spots hard with a 
sponge dipped in warm water, then rubbed with fine, 
hard hand-soap. Wash out the suds thoroughly with 
clean, warm water; lastly, sponge the whole surface with 
a mixture of two parts warm water, one part ammonia. 
Shake well, hang on the line evenly, until half-dry ; roll 
up each piece closely by itself, and iron, while still damp, 
on what is to be the wrong side, folding the breadths as 
they were in the original bulk, and laying smaller bits 
smooth. 

TO RENEW VELVET. 

Let an assistant hold the velvet taut, the wrong side 
up. Go all over this with a sponge wet in clean water, 
not letting the right side touch anything while you do 
this. Have ready a hot iron ; turn it upside down, rest- 
ing your arm and wrist on a table to hold the iron firmly 
in position. The wet back of the velvet must be drawn 
slowly and smoothly over this hot plane, slipping the 
velvet along as the " pile" on the right side rises slowly 
in the steam. Handle it carefully, as every finger-mark 
will show if touched when damp. Lay upon a table, 
right side up, and leave until entirely dry. 



BLACK CRAPE. 

Hold straight and level, but not too tightly over a kettle 
of boiling water. Let it get almost dry upon a cloth be- 
fore folding and laying it under a light weight. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



MARION HARLAND. 



277 



TO TURN SILK. 

Sponge what is to be the wrong side with household 
ammonia, or with ammonia and water in the proportions 
already prescribed. Black silk is freshened and made 
firmer by being treated, after the ammonia has cleaned 
it, to a second sponging with hot water, in which three 
or four potatoes have been boiled, but not to breaking. 
The water should be strained free from specks. While 
still damp, each breadth should be laid upon a folded 
sheet and covered with fine old cambric or linen. Iron 
upon this covering, hard and quickly, the wrong side of 
the silk being uppermost. The cambric prevents the 
shine of the iron from appearing on the silk. The gloss 
left by it would ruin the silk for future turning or for 
use as trimming. 

Satin may be sponged on the wrong side with potato- 
water, and ironed quickly, also on the back, without the 
cambric covering. 

Ribbons are treated like velvet, silk, or satin, each 
according to its kind, and when nearly dry, should be 
rolled evenly, not too tightly, upon blocks. 

FEATHERS. 

Some women have the patience and dexterity to curl 
ostrich tips with a dull knife, and to bring about satisfac- 
tory results. Practice is requisite to success in this un- 
dertaking. The novice would better make experiment 
upon a " tip " which is decidedly past worthy before 
running the risk of tearing to pieces a valuable feather. 

Feathers may be curled more easily and quickly (al- 
though they will be more easily undone by dampness) by 
holding them for a minute over a pot of boiling water, 
then shaking them over the hot top of the range, or, set- 





MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 






278 



ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 



ting them in a stone-china plate in a moderate oven for a. 
few minutes. If caught in a rain-storm or wet through 
by fog, the " tips " may be renovated again and again by 
this last process. 

WHITE LACE. 

Mend securely every rent, and fasten loose threads. 
Then leave the lace to soak over-night in tepid water, in 
which were dissolved, while it was boiling hot, half a 
teaspoonful of borax and the same quantity of shred white 
soap (sweet) for each pint of water. In the morning, 
wash gently in pure, tepid water, rubbing cautiously all 
soiled edges, and leave in clear, cold water for an hour. 
Squeeze hard without wringing, and lay between two 
dry towels for ten minutes to take up the wet. With clean, 
dainty fingers pull straight every mesh, figure, and "pearl 
ing," and while it is still damp, baste the lace upon a jar 
with straight sides, covered with several thicknesses of 
muslin or linen, laid perfectly smooth. Begin sewing the 
lace to the muslin at the bottom of the jar, and winding 
it around and around, the edges just touching one 
another, baste carefully each scollop and point to keep 
the figures even, and keeping the lace smooth. If you 
have much, or wide lace, you will need several large jars 
or bottles. 

Set them in the sun when all the lace is on, selecting a 
window where there is not much dust. Leave them out 
all day, wetting several times, the more frequently if the 
lace is badly discolored ; take in at night, but do not rip 
off the precious fabric until next day. Clip every thread 
carefully, unwind with equal care, and fold upon a card 
or in lengths. Lay under a weight until you are ready 
to use it. 

If these directions are followed exactly, the lace will 



MARION HARLAA'D. 



279 



look as well as if you had paid a big price to have it done 
by a professional cleaner. 

RUSTY BLACK THREAD LACE. 

Boil a black kid glove an hour in a quart of water, take 
out the glove, and let the water get blood-warm. Rinse 
the lace in it, shaking it up and down, but not rubbing. 
Dry off the wet between two towels, and while it is damp, 
pull it out and straighten with your fingers. 

Afterwards, proceed as with white lace — sewing it up- 
on the jars, but not wetting it again, and drying it in the 
.shade. The hot sun would fade it. 

All lace should be skillfully mended before it is cleaned. 
It is worth every woman's while to learn how to do this. 

This matter of " made overs " is full of pleasurable ex- 
citement if one goes into it with the determination to 
consider it as a fine art, rather than a task — one full of 
graeeful inventions, although born of necessity. Some 
women have the happy, nameless touch that imparts grace 
and style, and makes a combination of color and shape 
which in another would be audacious, look like a stroke 
of genius. For the average worker, a safe rule is not to 
attempt startling effects. Study such fashion-plates, and 
the directions appended to them as may be depended up- 
on ; select a model that is approved by your taste and is 
within each of your materials, and follow it — not slav- 
ishly, but with respect to general design. Set before your 
mind distinctly what you want to do, and what you can 
do. Skilful manipulation must effect the rest. 

There is solid satisfaction which rich people never 
know in wearing a " made-over " that has lost identity in 
the process and " looks like new." I commend the sen- 
sation as consolation to those whose ideals outreach 
their means. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






HOT-WEATHER DISHES. 

BY MARION HARLAND. 

The query, hateful to the weary housewife's soul, 
"What shall we eat three times a day?" increases in 
irksomeness in direct ratio as Old Sol becomes more 
assiduous in his attentions to the inhabitants of this 
insignificant sphere. The first meal of the day, eaten 
before the heat has a chance to sap energy and destroy 
appetite, is not the bugbear that the noon and evening 
repast prove. Boiled eggs and toast, fried or boiled fish 
and potatoes, a tender piece of steak or a tender French 
chop, can easily be " coaxed down " in the morning, 
especially when aided by the invaluable breakfast stand- 
by — oatmeal and cream, and freshly made and stimulating 
coffee or tea. The husband and father will confess that 
while he likes a good breakfast, he can, if necessary, 
" keep " until lunch-time if fortified by a cup of excellent 
coffee and a roll. 

" It is when the enervating noon and afternoon sun 
has power over the world that the jaded appetite turns 
with a feeling akin to disgust from hot meats and smok- 
ing vegetables. This is also the time when the mother 
sighs to herself a wish that " things grew ready-cooked," 
and that someone " would invent a new flesh, fish or 
fowl, for hot weather." 

For her sake, as well as for her family's, I give some 

recipes for " plains and sweets," which, while not new or 

ready-made, may be prepared before the heat of the day, 

or in so few minutes as not to test the strength and pa- 

280 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



MA RION HA RL A ND. 281 

tience, and will, I hope, offer a little variety to the usual 
bill-of-fare. Every household gets into the habit of 
having certain things to eat once in so often, and over 
and over again, until a new dish proves a positive bless- 
ing. 

My readers will notice that there is not a single recipe 
for a hot viand among these I give, as I have tried to 
have them especially suited to the requirements of the 
heated term. 

Dressed Eggs. — Boil eight eggs hard, and throw into 
cold water. When quite cold, take off the shells, cut the 
eggs in half lengthwise, from end to end, and remove 
the yolks. Put the yolks into a bowl, and with the back 
of a silver spoon rub smooth, adding, as you do so, a 
table-spoonful of chopped ham or chicken, one of butter, 
one of salad-dressing, a half-teaspoonful of French mus- 
tard, pepper and salt to taste. When these ingredients 
are blended to a paste, mold with the hands into oblong 
balls, which will fit into the halved whites. As the two 
sides are not to be put together again, the yolks may be 
moulded neatly instead of being smoothed off flat. Lay 
on a platter, garnish with a quantity of water-cress, and 
serve very cold. 

Beet Salad. — Three heads of lettuce ; six large red 
beets, boiled, and sliced when cold ; two small cucumbers 
sliced and laid in iced water ; one bunch of water-cress ; 
one cup of mayonnaise dressing. Line a salad-bowl with 
lettuce leaves, lay upon it the sliced beets alternately 
with. the cucumbers, pour over all the mayonnaise, and 
dot here and there with sprigs of water-cress. This should 
be prepared just before the meal for which it is intended. 
or the cucumbers will wither and the cress droop. 

Cold Golden Buck — Boil six eggs hard, and after they 
have been in cold water for half an hour, peel and slice. 





MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 






282 



ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 



Spread very thin slices of crustless bread with two cup- 
fuls of dry, grated cheese, worked to a creamy paste, 
with half a teaspoonful of made-mustard, a pinch of 
cayenne, a half-teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of 
cream, and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Cut the pieces 
of bread in half, lay on top of the cheese mixture the 
sliced eggs, and put the two halves of bread together, 
— sandwich-wise, — the mixture inside. 

Beef Cakes. — Cut enough meat from your cold roast 
of beef to make two cupfuls when chopped fine with two 
small onions. Add to this two tablespoonfuls of tomato- 
catsup, one cup of fine bread-crumbs, and half a cup of 
gravy. Mix well and mould into cakes, sprinkle with 
bread-crumbs, aud bake to a delicate brown. When cold 
lay the cakes on a platter, pour a tablespoonful of may- 
onnaise over each, and stick a sprig of parsley in the cen- 
ter of every cake. 

Rusk and Milk.— Two cups of milk : one-half cup of 
butter; one-half yeast-cake, dissolved in warm-water; 
one quart of flour; two eggs; one even teaspoonful of 
salt. Mix milk, butter, yeast, and a pint of flour into a 
sponge, and let it rise until light. Beat in the eggs, salt 
and the rest of the flour, roll out the dough into a paste 
more than half an inch thick, cut into round biscuits, set 
rows of them in a baking-pan, rub the top lightly with 
butter, and put another row on these ; let them rise for 
half an hour before baking. Remove from the oven, and 
let them get nearly cold before dividing the upper from 
the lower stratum ; pile lightly in pans, and leave them 
in a cooking-oven all night to dry. Hang them in a bag 
in the kitchen closet, or other dry, warm place. In two 
days they will be ready for use. Set a bowl at each 
place at table, lay a rusk cracked in several places in it, 
a piece of ice on this, and pour over all enough milk to 



MARION IIARLAND. 



283 



cover the rusk well. The rusk will soon become soft, 
and will then be ready to eat. 

Beef=Loaf — Two pounds of lean beef chopped fine, with 
two cups of bread-crumbs, and seasoned highly with pep- 
per, salt, nutmeg, sweet marjoram, and a little minced 
onion, and wet up with half a cup of good gravy ; two 
eggs beaten light, and mixed with the meat. Press 
firmly into the mould, fit on the cover, and set in a drip- 
ping-pan of boiling water to cook slowly for an hour and 
a quarter. When done, let it get perfectly cold before 
turning out. It must be cut in thin slices at table. 

Red Raspberry Float. — One quart of ripe red rasp- 
berries ; one pint of cream ; one cup and a half of pow- 
dered sugar ; white of six eggs, beaten to a meringue, 
and slightly sweetened. Press the berries until they are 
quite dry. To their juice add the powdered sugar, and 
stir into the pint of cream. Pour this into a glass bowl. 
Stir lightly into the meringue the squeezed berries, and 
pour carefully, not to mix, on top of the cream in the 
bowl. Serve at once. This is, if properly made, not 
only a delicious but a pretty dish. The pink cream at 
the bottom of the glass vessel, and above this the white 
meringue dotted with red fruit, please the aesthetic taste 
as well as the palate. 

Peach Ice Cream. — One quart of rich cream : one pint 
of milk ; two and a half cups of sugar ; one quart of 
peeled and chopped peaches. Sweeten the cream with 
one cup of sugar, mix with the milk and freeze. When 
half frozen, stir in the peaches, over which you have 
strewed the remaining cup and a half of sugar. Grind 
until hard-frozen ; pack in pounded ice until you are 
ready for it. 

Coffee Ice=Cream. — Four eggs ; one quart of milk ; two 
cups of sugar; one pint of cream; one cupful of hot, 



MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




284 



ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS 



clear, strong coffee. Put a pinch of soda in the milk, and 
heat to the boiling point. Beat the eggs until light, add 
the sugar, and pour little by little the hot milk over them. 
Return to the fire and cook, stirring all the time, until 
the custard coats the spoon. Remove from the fire, and 
add immediately the hot coffee. When cold, add the 
cream and freeze. 





MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



THE PREPARATION OF " FOODS " FOR 
INFANTS. 

BY MARION HARLAND. 

A LARGE proportion of women who bring up babies by 
hand honestly believe it to be impossible to do other- 
wise. It would be perhaps uncharitable to undertake to 
decide with how many of these the wish is father to the 
belief. Nurses and neighborly gossips have a busy fin- 
ger in this ugly pie. Mrs. Gamp is quick to suspect that 
her " lady " is lively and fond of company, or likes her 
own ease and comfort, and she comes to the front with 
doubts as to whether or not the dear young mother will 
have food enough for the child or, if she has, if her health 
can endure the strain and drain. Every one who has ob- 
served such matters intelligently knows how much de- 
pends upon encouraging the flow of the milk-vessels, and 
how trivial a cause will dry them up before the habit of 
milk-giving is established. 

There are born mothers, and there are mothers who 
are made mothers by their children, and there are wives 
who bring children into the world who never become 
mothers at all. Not until the blessed baby, an acknowl- 
edged entity, — " alive and warm upon her arm," — un- 
seals her tongue, can the real mother live out the best 
part of her. 

The other two classes of women have no new desires 
and hopes to repress. They rise, not sink, in the opinion 
of their compeers when they declare after the children 
come, that as women, they were made up without mater- 

2 8 5 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






286 ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 

nal instinct, but they will try to do their duty toward the 
" poor little creatures, now that they are here." Poor 
little creatures, indeed ! God and His angels must name 
them thus in sorrowful pity. Heaven only can ever tell 
why they are sent where they are not wanted. Nor can 
human wisdom pronounce why the highest vocation com- 
mitted to mortals should be the one for which no special 
preparation is made by law or public opinion, and, 
stranger still, none by natural affection. All that our 
born mother can do is to atone by special and intelligent 
effort, for others' sins of omission to be visited upon her 
and her guiltless baby. 

Now, if never before, she must watch her own health, 
grow strong and cheerful, be active without over-fatiguing 
herself, partake freely of strengthening beverages, such 
as milk and cocoa, eat nutritious food, and secure enough 
sleep. She is taking care of BABY'S MOTHER. Her own 
life has become suddenly invaluable, herself an object of 
interest hitherto undreamed of. One useful hint may 
serve her well should she become discouraged that Baby's 
supply is, for a while, insufficient. The more active her 
habits, the more apt this is to increase, and the more 
Baby takes, the more satisfactory will be the coveted 
" filling up." Any dairymaid can tell you this. 

This kind of Infants' Food outranks all others in 
value as real flowers outrank artificial. Still, there are 
babies who must be brought up upon something else, and 
it is an important question what that shall be. Speak- 
ing, as St. Paul says, of mine own judgment, I give the 
preference above all manufactured foods, to what our 
mothers called " cambric tea." Of fresh cow's milk take 
one-third, and two-thirds hot water, sweeten slightly, and 
as soon as it is blood-warm, give it to the baby. This 
proportion of milk and of water is for an infant a month 
old. As he gains in age and strength, increase the quan- 



MARION HARLAND. 



287 



tity of milk and lessen the quantity of water. Do this 
gradually, and watch the effect upon him. Should he 
show signs of distress, weaken the supply somewhat. By 
the time he is three months old, if he be healthy and 
vigorous, put half and half. At six months, reverse the 
order of the orginal mixture, putting two-thirds milk, one- 
third hot water. Be careful, always, not to put in too 
much sugar. This too-common blunder produces acidity 
of stomach and colic. There can be no better home- 
made imitation of mother's milk than this old fashioned 
food. 

But — and the " but " is a big one — cow's milk is of as 
many brands as " prepared foods," and subject to changes 
many and grievous. The sweet fluid which is fresh and 
nutritious in the morning is " on the turn " by evening, 
or, if not actually " touched," has altered materially, 
chemically. Illness so often follows these chemical 
changes that mothers are timid and artificial food-makers 
get rich. Within the last ten years, a benefactor of his 
species has made known a means of " sterilizing " and 
holding milk at the right stage, for twenty-four hours, 
and moreover, of killing certain hurtful germs that some- 
times lurk in the bowl, especially when the " turn," which 
is fermentation, has begun. The simple process removes 
all objections brought against cow's milk as the base of 
infants' food. 

For awhile, mothers attempted, with more or less 
success, to sterilize milk by putting it into a double 
boiler, filling the outer vessel with water and bringing 
the contents of both kettles almost to scalding point. 
The operation was attended with several difficulties. To 
boil milk robs it of certain valuable properties possessed 
by raw, and the skin that rises to the top of the milk 
that is barely scalding hot proves that some to the vir- 
tue has gone out of the liquid. Unless the milk were 



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ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 



removed instantly from the fire at exactly the right 
second, and cooled instantly, the experiment was a 
partial or total failure. At a later date, a utensil called a 
" sterilizer " was put into the market, which, those who 
have tried it affirm, does away with the risks of the primi- 
tive process. Every nursery should be furnished with 
one of these. They are simple and inexpensive, and 
require little care to keep them in order. 

It is folly to contend that any made food is superior to 
good milk, thus treated and combined, in proper propor- 
tions, with boiled water. If it does not suit your baby, 
nothing will. Change your cow, or milkman, and try a 
different combination, leave out the sugar — do anything 
sooner than discard food made by the Creator for that 
turned out by a mill. At ten months, a healthy baby 
should be weaned from the breast or bottle. He ought 
to be able, by now, to digest sterilized milk unmixed 
with water. 

In my own nursery, prior to the discovery of the ster- 
ilizing principle, I had much respect for a preparation of 
food (for a weaned child), of farina soaked for several 
hours, then boiled to a thin gruel in water, very slightly 
salted and slightly sweetened, and cooked for a few 
minutes in milk, I still think it good where the strong 
child appears to require somewhat substantial substance. 

As to the legion of artificial foods, good, indifferent, 
and good for less-than-nothing — apart from the evident 
truth that if milk agrees with a child and he is nourished 
thereby, it is folly and a danger to change his diet, — one 
prominent objection applies to them all. One baby's 
broth is another baby's bane, and it is impossible to distin- 
guish between broth and bane without experimenting 
upon baby's stomach. 

Let me give examples drawn from the three nurseries 
in which I am most interested. 



MARION HARLAA T D. 



289 



One hapless baby, whose natural supply was cut off by 
unnatural causes, could not digest any preparation of 
cow's milk, although peptonized by the home-made ap- 
paratus, the sterilzer not having been invented. In close 
succession were tried four kinds of artificial food, all re- 
commended by friends of experience and trustworthiness. 
Each agreed with the suffering innocent less than the one 
discarded for it. Condensed milk was confidently pre- 
scribed by a physician who made a specialty of children's 
diseases. One meal of it was followed by agonizing colic, 
culminating in convulsions. In sheer desperation, the 
mother tried a sample of food brought in by a visitor 
whose child " had lived on it from birth." For the first 
time in months, the feeding-time was not succeeded by 
contortions and screams, and when the baby dropped into 
the natural slumber of a satisfied child, the mother, with 
grateful tears, thanked heaven for the end of the long 
agony she had shared with her darling. After this, the 
little girl was fed on nothing but " The Food," and throve 
happily under the regimen. In time, a baby brother 
appeared on the scene, and the mother's milk waning 
when he was six months old, he was also nourished upon 
the inestimable prepared Food, with equally gratifying 
results. The tale went far and near, the parents cheer- 
fully commending what they honestly believed was the 
discovery of the age for suffering infancy. 

In nursery No. 2, " The Food " was a signal failure, 
the stomach of the baby for whom it was introduced 
usually rejecting it within a few minutes after it was 
swallowed, and, when the diet was persisted in, in the 
hope of mastering the idiosyncrasy, wasting away to a 
mere skeleton. Convinced reluctantly, against inclina- 
tion, that " The Food " was subject to like vicissitudes 
with others, the mother, by advice of the same doctor 
who had given condensed milk to No. I, resorted to it, 
*9 



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but with small hope of benefit for the puny baby- 
daughter. She retained the few spoonfuls she had 
strength to swallow, and rallied visibly. After this, she 
was nourished upon condensed milk until she was eighteen 
months old, and a fine, plump child. 

In the third nursery, " The Food " and condensed milk 
were alike calamitous to Baby's capricious stomach. 
Both had a fair trial, and were discarded as absolutely 
perilous to the child's life, and arrow-root gruel was in- 
troduced by a relative who had fed three children upon 
it. Another relative present exclaimed shudderingly 
that she had ignorantly starved a baby to death upon 
what the best writers of dietetics pronounce, nowadays, 
to be no better than starch. The arrow-root was 
administered by the almost despairing mother and brought 
the baby back from the very mouth of the grave. 

Who shall decide when babies disagree as to the merits 
of various "substitutes"? The tender parent shrinks 
from testing the qualities of three or perhaps a dozen by 
the degree of pain they inflict upon her unoffending dar- 
ling; yet something must be found that can be assimilated 
by the digestive organs. Thirty odd years ago, a colored 
woman gave me a golden bit of counsel that has been 
put out at interest many times since. 

" Don't you prodjick wid you' baby's stummock, chile! 
Dar is dem what can't let chillen 'lone, but mus' be all 
tie time pourin' things down dey t'roats, same like dey 
was jugs. Listen to what yer ole mammy tells you — an' 
let pro >dji 'chin alone ! " 

Mammy was in advance of her generation. Her advice, 
sound always, borrows pertinence from the hundred only 
safe and perfect foods for infants advertised in every 
column of every newspaper, and thrust upon us in sample 
packages in street-cars and by mail. 

Give the baby boiled water to drink until he is over 



MARION HA ISLAND. 



> 9 i 



two years old, particularly when he is carried from one 
place to another. The change of water affects the 
bowels more surely than change of milk. There are salts 
and other minerals in solution in some regions, in others 
putrid vegetable and animal matter that lend gaseous 
sparkle to the fluid. Boiling causes a precipitate of some 
elements, and makes others harmless. Iced water should 
never be given to the children. It chills the stomach 
and checks digestion, to say nothing of germs and larvae 
which cold does not kill, that are thus taken into the sys- 
tem. 

If you desire to give Baby pleasure, do not fall into 
the mistake of introducing variety into his bill-of-fare. 
While the simple diet enjoined by nature and common 
sense agrees with and satisfies him, be you likewise con- 
tent. Bear in mind Mammy's caution as to " prodjickin'," 
and leave to others doubtful projects upon a delicate 
organ. Neither is it kind to create in him desires for 
what may be an unlawful indulgence. Up to the age of 
three or four years, give him little meat, — rare beef, steak 
or roast, tender roast mutton, and roast chicken. Pro- 
hibit fried foods of all kinds, also stews and rich soups. 
Broths — well-skimmed — will not hurt him, but he ought 
not to know the taste of gravy, Plain puddings may be 
a holiday luxury, also custards, blanc-mange, and ice- 
cream in small quantities. Ripe, fresh fruits, partaken 
of in moderation, should take the place of most sweets, 
but these he should not eat until after his weaning is 
some months old. Make haste slowly with all innova- 
tions- 
Thomas Carlyle called the human stomach " that most 
diabolical of all machines." It depends largely upon the 
mothers of the rising generation to decide whether in the 
next century the biting epigram shall be truth or false- 
hood. 



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POTTED PROVISIONS. 

BY MARION HARLAND. 

FIFTY years ago, desiccation (or drying) was the one 
method practiced for the preservation, for winter use, of 
green vegetables, while preserving in syrup, vinegar, and 
spirits was resorted to for keeping fruits in palatable form 
for the table. Sweet corn was dried when nearly hard, 
and had to be soaked over night, then boiled for a long 
time before it could be eaten. After all, it was hardly 
an improvement upon the coarser hominy. Tomatoes, 
peaches, plums, cherries, and pears lost most of their 
distinctive flavor through long exposure to the sun, and 
subsequent soaking and stewing. 

The housekeeper who complains of the stale monotony 
of " canned goods," would do well to bear in mind the 
privations of a former day, and be thankful. She would 
do better to make good things excellent by judicious 
treatment. While the demand for potted provisions may 
not have lessened throughout the country, it is undeniable 
that there is a growing disrelish for them in the minds of 
people of dainty and cultured tastes. There is danger of 
relegating to boarding-house and hotel-keepers what are, 
really, delicacies, and wholesome assuasives of bile and 
satiety. People who can ill afford it, pay high prices for 
forced vegetables, rather than set before guests the con- 
tents of cans purchased for little money at the corner 
grocer's. It is the purpose of the present " Talk " to lift 
the reproach from the serviceable " can," and show the 
cause of disrelish to be not in the nature of the thing 

preserved so much as in the cook's determining to re- 

292 



MARION HARLAND. 



'93 



gard it as an end, not a means, a finished product, instead 
of semi-raw material. The wrong way to serve all potted 
provisions is to " dump " them from the can or jar into 
the saucepan, and from the saucepan into the platter or 
root-dish, with no attempt at seasoning or enrichment. 

Here let me say, once for all, that canned meats, fruits, 
vegetables, soups, etc., should be turned out of the vessels 
in which they were preserved, at least one hour before 
they are cooked, or sent to table, and left in open dishes 
to rid them of the close airless smell which disgusts many 
with the entire class. I remark, furthermore, that the 
prejudice against potted corned beef would never have 
gained prevalence and strength, had this precaution been 
taken in every case. 

Still, furthermore, I drop as a word of warning, that 
your cook will not obey your orders in this respect unless 
you watch her. Brains, and the ability to use brains, are 
required to see the wisdom of the simple safeguard. 

I set, first, because most abundant and useful among 
potted provisions, — 

Tomatoes. — Of these, there are brands and brands. 
Some tins turn out a superfluity of liquid, many unripe 
lumps, and bits of skin mingled with the pulp. Note the 
name and address of the manufacturer, and avoid the 
"make" in future. The housewife who takes advantage 
of the height of the season, and puts up her own toma- 
toes, rejecting cores and hard pieces, and draining off half 
the juice, will fare best on this score. 

Stewed Tomatoes. — Mince a quarter of a small onion, 
and put with the tomatoes over the fire. Cook, after the 
boil is reached, fifteen minutes. Add, then, three table- 
spoonfuls of dry, fine crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, 
and salt and pepper to taste. Stew gently for five min- 
utes more, stir in a teaspoonful of sugar, and pour into a 
deep dish. 



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ADVICE TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 



Scalloped Tomatoes. — Drain off all the liquid that will 
come away. (Salted and peppered, it can be kept for a 
couple of days to be made into tomato sauce for chops,, 
etc.) Sprinkle the bottom of a buttered pie or pudding- 
dish with dry crumbs, salted and peppered. Cover with a 
layer of the drained tomatoes ; stick bits of butter in this, 
and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Fill the dish in this 
order. The top layer should be fine crumbs, seasoned 
and buttered. Cover closely, and bake half an hour. 
Then brown slightly upon the grating of the oven. 

Scalloped Corn and Tomatoes. — Empty a can of each, 
and drain, separately, in a colander. Chop the corn fine, 
and treat as directed in last recipe, substituting chopped 
corn for crumbs, until you reach the top, when a coating 
of the latter, seasoned with pepper, salt, sugar, and 
butter, may be used to facilitate browning. Bake forty- 
five minutes (covered) then brown. 

This is a most palatable dish, and an elegant one when 
baked in scallop-shells. 

Cream Tomato Soup — Put a cupful of (aired) tomatoes 
into a sauce-pan with half a small onion, chopped fine, 
and cook half an hour after the boil begins. Strain and 
rub through a colander, and return to the fire. Season 
with pepper, and salt, and a' teaspoonful of white sugar. 
Stir in, by degrees, two tablespoonfuls of butter, cut up 
and rubbed into two tablespoonfuls of flour. Have ready 
in another sauce-pan a pint of boiling milk, in which has 
been dissolved a bit of soda, not larger than a pea. Let 
the soup simmer for three minutes after butter and flour 
go in, stirring well and often ; pour into a tureen, add the 
boiling milk, mix well, and send to the table. If milk and 
tomatoes are boiled together, they will be apt to form a 
curdled compound, in spite of the soda. 

Creamed Tomato Toast. — Take a pint of tomatoes, 
with pepper and salt, and cook gently for fifteen minutes. 



MARION HA A' LAND. 



! 95 



Rub through a colander, and return to the fire. In 
another sauce-pan heat a cupful of milk, — with the tiny 
bit of soda, — add two teaspoonfuls of butter, cut up in 
flour, and stir for one minute; put a teaspoonful of sugar 
with the tomato ; take from the fire, and mix with the boil- 
ing milk. Pour at once upon slices of crustless bread, 
toasted and buttered, and laid upon a hot platter. Cover, 
set for a minute in the oven, and send to the table. 
This is a pleasant adjunct to fish, poultry, or mutton. 

Canned Corn Pudding. — Drain the corn and chop very 
fine. Make a raw custard of four eggs, well beaten, two 
teaspoonfuls of sugar, three cups of milk, and a dessert- 
spoonful of melted butter. Season the corn with salt 
and a little pepper. Mix all well together, and bake, 
covered, forty-five minutes then brown. 

Canned Corn Cakes.— Drain and chop the corn fine. 
Beat three eggs very light ; add a pint of milk, a little 
salt, a teaspoonful of melted butter, a teaspoonful of 
sugar, and, when all are thoroughly mixed, three table- 
spoonfuls of sifted flour, — or just enough to hold the 
corn together. Bake on a griddle, as you would buck- 
wheat cakes, and eat as a vegetable. 

Canned Corn Soup. — Chop the corn very fine ; add a 
scant quart of boiling water, and a teaspoonful of minced 
onion. Stew steadily for three-quarters of an hour after 
it reaches the boil. Rub through a colander into a 
sauce-pan ; add salt, pepper, three tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, rolled in as much flour, and a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley. Heat in another vessel a pint of milk, and when 
the corn puree has simmered five minutes longer, turn 
first one, then the other into a tureen, stir well, and serve. 

This soup is nice if veal or chicken stock be substituted 
for boiling water. If the stock be strong, omit the butter. 

Canned Pea Soup. — Make according to the recipe just 



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given. The peas should not be chopped, but boiled soft, 
and then rubbed through the colander. 

Canned peas should always be drained, and left to lie 
in very cold water, slightly salt, for half an hour before 
they are cooked. This takes away the smoky flavor 
which people are apt to consider inseparable from Amer-. 
ican peas. These, by the way, are as good for soup as 
the French, which are double the price. 

American peas may also be made into 

Pea Pancakes. — Drain the peas ; lay in slightly salted 
ice-water for half an hour. Pour off the water, and boil 
soft. Rub through a colander, and while hot work in 
pepper, salt, and two teaspoonfuls of butter. Let them 
get cold. When ready to cook them, stir in, gradually, 
two beaten eggs, a pint of milk, and a very little flour, 
just enough to bind the mixture. Cook as you would 
griddlecakes. 

Sardines au Gratin. — Most people know of but one 
way of using sardines. That is to eat them just as they 
come from the box. with or without lemon-juice. 

So far as I know, it was reserved for the caterer of my 
modest household to discover, under the whip of neces- 
sity, that they could be " treated " into a tolerable like- 
ness of the toothsome things they are when fried fresh 
upon the shores of the Adriatic. A carriage-load of 
guests arrived unexpectedly, one June noon, at our 
mountain cottage. It was one of the days when the 
butcher " did not happen to call." There were berries 
and lettuce galore in the garden, milk, and cream in the 
cellar, eggs and canned bouillon, crackers, cheese, and 
olives in the storeroom, but not a morsel of anything 
"hearty" as rural housewives call it — in the house. 

Sardines au gratin were evolved from the mortifi- 
cation of the dilemma. The inspiration came midway 



MARION HAKLAND. 



'■91 



between storeroom and kitchen. I opened two boxes, 
removed the fish without so much as breaking the skin 
of one, and laid them upon soft paper to drain and air. 
When the oil had dripped away, I peppered each charily 
with cayenne, and squeezed a few drops of lemon-juice 
upon it. Next I rolled them in pounded crackers, ar- 
ranged them carefully within a buttered bake-pan, and set 
them in a quick oven. In ten minutes they were smoking 
hot and delicately browned. They were transferred to a 
hot-water dish, garnished with parsley and sliced lemon, 
a piece of which went with each " help." 

Hot bouillon preceded them ; and egg-and-lettuce 
salad, with mayonnaise-dressing, came next ; then 
crackers, cream-cheese, and olives ; lastly, strawberries 
and cream, cake and coffee ; but my " fresh sardines " were 
the favorite dish of the simple feast. 

Sardine Salad. — Drain them well of oil. Lay fresh, 
crisp lettuce upon a dish, and upon each leaf a fish. 
Reserve two to be skinned and rubbed fine, then mix with 
your mayonnaise. 

Sardine Sandwiches. — Drain and skin the fish, and rub 
into a paste, working in gradually a teaspoonful or so of 
melted butter, pepper, salt, lemon-juice and a little 
French mustard. Butter thin slices of bread; spread 
with the paste and double each slice upon the mixture. 

Mock Turtle Soup — Add four hard-boiled' eggs, cut 
into eighths, a glass of claret (or whatever substitute you 
use , if you object to wine), the juice of half a lemon, 
or a lemon peeled, then slice thin (this last to be laid on 
the surface after the soup is dished), a teacupful of 
boiling water, and such additional salt and pepper as your 
taste adjudges to be needful. If you care to take the 
trouble, omit the whites of the eggs; pound the yolks 
into a paste, work in melted butter, a pinch of mustard, 



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pepper and salt, and bind with the yolk of a raw egg 
Flour your hands, make the paste into small balls, and 
drop into the boiling soup. Simmer three minutes after 
they go in. 

Still another way — Drain a cupful of juice from a can 
of tomatoes ; strain through mosquito netting ; put over 
the fire, and boil fast ten minutes. Skin, add a table- 
spoonful of butter, rolled in browned flour, and when 
the soup has boiled, stir into it. After this, drop in the 
hard-boiled eggs (or the egg-balls) and the sliced lemon. 

Consomme may be the base of a dozen different 
soups — such as tomato, Julienne, rice-broth, tapioca, 
sago, barley, potato, turnip, etc., etc., each of which will 
repay you for the additional trouble it costs you. 

A can of chicken, minced fine and stirred, with half as 
much fine crumbs, well seasoned, into boiling consomme, 
makes delicious bisque. A good spoonful of butter, and 
a few spoonfuls of cream improve this. 

Mutton Broth. — Add three tablespoonfuls of rice and 
the water in which it was boiled. With the rice may be 
cooked a small onion, and this, minced, go into the broth, 
also a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Season to 
taste. 

Chicken Soup. — This makes a delightful bisque when 
a cupful of cold veal or a can of chicken, chopped, is 
stirred in, with a half a cupful of dry, seasoned crumbs. 
A finer soup can be based upon chicken-broth by making 
egg-balls, such as I have described, and putting them 
into the boiling broth. Have ready a cupful of scalding 
milk, stir in a tablespoonful of butter rolled in one of 
flour, cook one minute, and pour, a little at a time, upon 
t\\ -'> beaten raw eggs. Turn into the tureen, and add the 
soup ana balls. 



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Household Management. 



N r EXT to good domestic cooking stands good household 
management. It would be hard to say which is en- 
titled to precedence. There are houses which are 
kept to a nicety, in which the cooking is execrable. There 
are others where good cooking is the one thing that makes 
them endurable. But all good things should be happily 
combined if a really model home is sought. " I am no 
cook," said a newly established housekeeper, " but I am a 
good manager." If her capacity to manage extended to 
managing her cook, and her cook happened to be a good 
one, then things might move smoothly ; but for the best 
results the year through, housekeepers should be queens in 
every part of the home. 

Somebody manages the domestic affairs of almost every 
house. Occasionally it is the man of the house. Sometimes 
it is his mother, or his wife's mother. Oftener it is the cook. 
There are homes where the rightful heads are not heads, but 
are more like tails. Another makes the decisions, and they 
wag assent, or submissively curl themselves up with ill- 
concealed disgust. There are some houses where there is 
no management whatever. Affairs go as a log goes down 
stream. Now one end leads ; again the other. Now it goes 

301 






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302 



HO USE HOLD MAN A GEMEN7. 



broadside; again it does not go at all Alas for those who 
dwell in such a house, and call it home! 

There are private as well as public resting places, where 
those who travel much occasionally stop, where wonderful 
contrasts are visible. One of these was a luxurious home in 
a Southern city. There was no stint because of straitened 
circumstances nor on the score of parsimony. The gentle- 
man and lady were wealthy, generous, and refined. Their 
cook had served long in a restaurant, and was fully compe- 
tent to do any culinary work. The meals were superb. 
They were cooked to a nicety and served to perfection. 
There was plenty, and that, too, of the best sort. 

But, oh ! the condition of the house ! The best guest- 
chamber was laden with odors so offensive that a chance 
lodger there began an exploration. Stowed in the bottom 
of the clothes press of the room was accummulated rubbish, 
musty, moldy, mouse-infested, and disgusting. Having no 
means to correct the evil, the guest left this closet door wide 
open in the morning, hoping thereby to attract attention to 
its condition and secure its cleansing. But when he re- 
entered the room he found, to his dismay, that the door had 
been carefully closed upon its unsightliness and unwhole- 
someness, the skeleton-maker, if not the " skeleton in the 
closet," being scrupulously retained. 

Such gross mismanagement is to be severely condemned. 
No excuse for it suffices. Common sense and common 
decency demand better management in every home. But 
the " happy-go-easy " inmates of that home saw nothing 
amiss. Of course, management may run to the other 
extreme. A house may be so orderly that a man instinct- 
ively gathers himself together when in it, lest he be caught 
in some of its machinery and be ground to powder ; or, 
what is equally to be dreaded, be the means of disarranging; 
Rome part of that intricate family machine. 

A golden mean in management must be observed 



HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 



303 



Enough of it is necessary to compel complete and unceasing 
supervision at every point, so that everything shall be just 
as it should be. But when it becomes an overshadowing 
and awe-inspiring presence — subduing the laugh, suppress- 
ing the smile, restraining the steps, fettering the words — 
then it is a bane and not a blessing. 

Executive ability is in great part a natural endowment 
Some are born to rule. Command is natural and easy foi 
them. They can organize and execute. But the rarest 
genius in this art will be the better for practice. Experience 
will improve his natural aptitude. And he will gather valu- 
able lessons from the experiences of others. Where others 
fail he will shun to tread, unless the reason of their failure 
he so clearly sees that he is sure of mastery over it. What 
the person of ability sees in others and experiences in him- 
self is capital on which he trades, and from which he derives, 
his revenues of advancement. 

If genuises in executive ability grow by what they learn, 
surely those less gifted need to learn the more, that they, 
too, may grow, though their advantages be less. Therefore 
it is that in this department of household management 
directions are given on many practical points of home duty. 
These directions are the results of experience. They may 
seem unimportant, and possibly excessive, but they will help 
the most competent, as well as the least competent, by sug- 
gesting both what to do and what not to do. The old 
maxim, " Prove all things ; hold fast that which is good," 
may well be sounded in the ears of all housekeepers. The 
best housekeepers have reached their proud eminence by 
this wise course. 

As housewives press on to higher and still higher attain- 
ments, let the words of one of the noblest of their company, 
Mrs. Sigourney, inspire them. She says : " The strength of 
a nation, especially of a republican nation, is in the intelli- 
gent and well-ordered homes of the people." 



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I.— MARKETING. 

OPPORTUNITIES vary so in different localities, that 
general rules about marketing are hard to frame. In 
rural places the butcher drives to the door, and the 
customer must be content with what is found in the wagon. 
In villages and small cities, the butcher shops and stores, 
denominated " Markets," afford a variety more or less 
excellent. Some of the large cities have their market stores, 
and green-grocers, and butcher shops, and great central 
markets, where qualities vary with the prices, and where 
customers of all grades and conditions can be supplied. 

In marketing, as in all other business transactions, it may 
be accepted as a rule, that goods will bring their value. The 
best usually costs most, and in the long run it is the cheapest. 
In such perishable goods as meats, fruits, fish, vegetables, 
etc., there are innumerable chances for fluctuations in price 
and for variation in quality. A judge of these commodities 
may " pick up bargains," but the inexpert and uninitiated 
are more frequently fleeced than favored in catch operations 
at the markets. 

General hints as to the selection of meats, fish, vegeta- 
bles, etc., have already been given in this volume, under the 
department of Cookery, but no hints, and no rules, will suf- 
fice absolutely. Keen and continuous observation, growing 
into a large and varied experience, are essential to a good 
marketer. There is not a family which has not suffered 
irom a want of the knowledge that would enable them to 
judge the quality of meats offered them. Often at the 
market an expert is waited on from the best quality and the 
best cuts, while another, with less knowledge, is served from 
804 



MARKETING. 



305 



a poorer quality and less desirable cuts. Many a house* 
keeper has been censured for poor cooking, when the fault 
was back of that, and in the quality of the meats; and 
again, the market man has often been censured for furnish- 
ing poor meats, when the fault was in the cooking. A good 
piece of meat may be spoiled in cooking and a poor piece 
may be made palatable. 

To know the parts of the animals sold in the markets, 
and to understand their relative value and most economical 
uses, is the first requisite in successful marketing. Cutting 
of animals varies somewhat among butchers of different 
places, but the chart given below will fairly set forth the 
usual methods of cutting, and the ordinary designations oi 
*^e several portions. 




CHART ILLUSTRATING THE CUTTING OF BEEF. 

In explanation of the illustration of the cutting of beel 
the following notes will suffice : 

No. i. — The choice cut of the beef, the Sirloin, containing 
the kidneys and the tenderloin. These are the finest pieces 
of roasting and steak meat. 

No. 2. — The Standing Rib piece, also a choice roastingpor- 
tion, which includes about eleven of the ribs. 



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No. 3.— The Chuck Ribs, also used. for roasting, but of at 
less desirable quality and usually sold at a lower price. 

No. 4. — The neck, with considerable bone, used generally 
for stewing and for pot roast. 

No. 5. — The Check, or jowl, a fleshy part, used for stew* 
ing or for boiling. 

No. 6. — The Rump, sometimes cut differently from the 
manner shown in the diagram, which is the usual cutting at 
the East, for domestic purposes. This part has very little 
bone and is generally used for choice steaks, and the por- 
tion next the tail, left from the steak cutting, is a choice 
piece for corning. 

No. 7. — The Pin-bone, a choice piece for roasting, being 
very tender. 

No. 8. — The Round, which furnishes common steaks, and 
is the choice cut for dried beef or for corning. 

No. 9. — The Leg, the choice soup piece. 

No. 10. — The Shin, also used for soup. 

No. 1 1. — The Thin flank, used for boiling and for corning. 

No. 12. — The Brisket, used for corning. 

No. 13. — The Plate, used for family boiling and for 
corning. 

No. 14. — The Plate (thick end), extending under the 
shoulder, used for corning and family boiling. 

No. 15. — The Breast, or butt end of the brisket, also 
called the " sticking piece." Used for corning and soup- 
meat. 

If the cutting vary materially from this plan, it is still 
true that the essential parts of the animal continue to exist 
and are for sale under some name and in some shape. A 
polite inquiry of any reputable butcher will secure the 
desired information as to any part. By this means a person 
may secure intelligent skill in purchasing beef. Some spe- 
cial points concerning beef need a moment's attention. 

The Tongue is used fresh, salted, or smoked. It is a very 



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307 



desirable and delicate portion, suitable for table use at almost 
any time. The Tail, which affords some meat and much 
gelatinous substance, is prized for soups, ox-tail soup espe- 
cially being founded upon it. The Heart and Liver are used 
for food — the former being stuffed and roasted, the latter 
being fried, usually with onions. The Tripe, which is the 
lining of the large, or receiving stomach of the beef, is used 
for souse, for pepper-pot, etc. It is a cheap article. The 
Kidneys of beef are sold separate from the sirloin, from 
which they are cut. They are used for stewing, etc. Snet, 
used for pie-crust, plum-puddings, mince-meat, etc., is the 
solid, clear fat, which incloses the kidney. When pure it 
is a very desirable article. The Feet are used for jellies, 
though not so delicate as the calf's foot. The Head is refuse. 
The Marrozv-b ernes are those of the shin, leg, and round. 
Any of the round, hollow bones contain marrow. The 
other remains of beef are refuse, except as available for 
manufacturing purposes. 

VEAL. 
Veal is a favorite meat. Consult the points concerning it 
made upon page 76. Veal is cut as shown below. 

No. 1. — Loin, the best end. It is the favorite roasting 
piece, and furnishes the 
choice chops. It com- 
mands the best price. 

No. 2. — Fillet, or cutlet 
piece. This too is a 
choice part, being excel- 
lent for steaks and for 
roasting and flllincr. It 
is also very fine for a cold 
cut. 

No. 3. — The Leg, call- 
ed knuckle also, used chiefly for stewing and for soup. 
No. 4. — The Rack, used for chops, and for roasting ; less 
20 




CHART ILLUSTRATING THE CUTTING 
OF VEAL. 



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desirable and lower priced than the loin, having mote 
bone. 

No. 5. — The Neck, used for stewing, pies, etc. The best 
end is quite desirable, that nearer the head being of less 
value. 

No. 6. — Head. The brains and tongue are prized by many, 
the former for frying as a delicacy, the latter for boiling. 
The head, as a whole, is used in mock turtle and some other 
fancy soups. 

No. 7. — The Shoulder, used for roasting, for which it 
answers a good purpose. It is valuable for a stew also. 

No. 8. — The Breast. This is the second choice piece for 

stuffing and roasting. It is too valuable for pies, stews, etc. 

No. 9. — The Shin. This usually goes with the shoulder, 

with which it is often roasted. If used separately, it answers 

fairly well for stewing. 

The Szvcetbrcad, a very delicate portion, belongs with the 
breast. It is often sold separately, however. The Kidneys 
are sold with the loin, in the fat of which they are imbedded. 
The Heart and Liver are great delicacies for frying, or the 
heart for stuffing and roasting. The Feet are the basis of 
genuine calves-foot jelly, and are much prized for this pur- 
pose. The Entrails, cut open and well cleaned, are made 
into souse by some persons. 

MUTTON. 
Next to beef, the most profitable and healthful meat is 
mutton. In all markets this meat is cut substantially in the 
same manner as shown in the following chart. The names 
and ordinary uses of the parts are as follows : 

No. 1. — The Loin, best end. This is the choice piece for 
filling and roasting and for prime chops. Of course, it com- 
mands the best price. 

No. 2. — The Leg. This joint is nearly always used for 
roasting and chops, sometimes also for boiling. It has but 
little bone, as compared with the other parts of the animal, 



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309 



and is, therefore, an economical piece to select, though the 
price per pound be greater than that of any other cut. It 
is common to find a good leg weighing from seven to twelve 
pounds. 

No. 3. — The Loin, second choice. This furnishes " French 




CHART ILLUSTRATING THE CUTTING OF MUTTON. 

chops," a favorite dish in eating-houses, and is specially 
good for a roast. 

No. 4. — The Loin, rump end. Good for roasting and 
boiling. It contains considerable bone. 

No. 5. — The Shoulder, used for boiling and for filling and 
roasting. It is less in price and nearly as good as the leg, 
but it has more bone. 

No. 6. — The Breast, used for stews and for meat pies. A 
savory, juicy part. 

No. 7. — The Flank. A continuation of the breast, but 
somewhat thinner. This with the breast makes a cheap 
roast, which may be split and filled. 

No. 8. — The Rack. The best end of the rack is used for 
second-rate chops. The neck end of the rack is good for 
stewing only. I 

No. 9. — The Neck. This, with the neck end of the rack, 
is for stewing only. 



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The tongue only is used, the re 



No. 10. — The Head. 
mainder being refuse. 

It is customary to split mutton down the back, and then 
to split each half into parts called hind and fore quarters 
The saddle is the middle portion before this quartering is 
done. Part of it goes with each quarter. 

The hind quarter of mutton, consisting of the leg and 
the loin, is the choice quarter. It makes a very superior 
large roast, while either of its parts, the leg or the loin, suf- 
fices nicely for a small company. A hind quarter from an 
animal in good condition will weigh from twenty to thirty 
pounds. The Kidneys are used as in beef, so also the heart 
and liver. The other parts are refuse. 

LAMB. 
Lamb is cut as mutton, but it is usually dressed with 
more care, so as to present a more attractive appearance. 
Lamb proper is in market in the spring only. As the sea- 
son advances older lamb is in market, but what is called 
" lamb " in the winter months is usually poor mutton 
dressed lamb style. The butcher indulges in a quiet smile 
when his customer, in the winter season, asks for and pays 
for " lamb." Of course, the superiority and rarity of lamb 

demand for it the best 
prices. Indeed, "fancy 
prices " reign in lamb. 
For tests, see p. 82. 
PORK. 
Fresh pork and salt 
pork are much used. 
General facts on pork 
are given on page 85. 
The usual method of cutting for domestic use is shown m 
the accompanying cut. For packing a somewhat different 
nethod is pursued. 
No. 1. — The Hani, the most valuable part of the hog. 




CHART ILLUSTRATING THE CUTTING OF 
PORK. 



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311 



When nicely cured it is a very great delicacy. It is a great 
article of commerce also. 

No. 2. — Sirloin, furnishing chops and the finest roast- 
ing pieces. 

No. 3. — Rack, used for second-rate chops and roasts, 
the meat being as sweet, but the bone being greater than in 
the sirloin. 

No. 4. — Neck, used for inferior roasting, and for boiling 
when fresh, and also for corning. 

No. 5. — The Shoulder. A fair roasting piece, but chiefly 
used, like the ham, for pickling and curing, though it is 
greatly inferior to ham in juiciness and flavor. Either fresh 
or corned it is a fine boiling piece. 

No. 6. — The Jowl. Useful for smoking. Sometimes .cured 
with the tongues remaining in them. 

No. 7. — The Head. Used for puddings and head cheese. 

No. 8. — The Belly or Flitch. A good boiling piece either 
fresh, salted, or smoked. 

No. 9. — Feet. These are much used for souse and foi 
pickling. They contain so much gelatinous matter that the} 
are exceedingly desirable. 

The Ears also are used for souse and head cheese. The 
Liver, Heart, and Kidneys are used for liver pudding. The 
Entrails, nicely cleaned, are used for sausage skins. The Fat 
about the kidneys furnishes leaf lard. The other fat fur 
nishes common lard. The other parts are refuse. 
VENISON. 

If the marketer desires venison, it is well to remembei 
that buck venison is best from August 1st to November 1st; 
and that doe venison is best from the latter date to January 
1st, after which no deer should be killed. It is quite com 
mon, however, to freeze deer meat, and to keep it for months 
in that state. This adds to the cost, but it also improves 
the fibre of the meat. 

Venison is cut into parts respectively designated haunch 



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saddle, leg, loin, fore-quarter, and steaks. The latter should 
not be cut until ready for use. Venison should be fat. It 
cannot be too fat. Its flavor is better after hanging a few 
days, but it should not become rank. To test this,- pierce it 
with a skewer and notice the odor. Shun tough venison. 

For roasting, choose the haunch, the saddle, the neck, or 
the shoulder. Cut steaks from the leg. Stew the shoulder, 
or any part which is too thin for satisfactory roasting. 
POULTRY. 

Tests of poultry are given on page 61. But the expe- 
dients resorted to in order to mislead purchasers are so 
numerous that even experts are not wholly safe. Techni- 
cally, the term chickens belongs to fowls under a year old, 
but actually, the entire tribe is included in the name. Capons 
are young roosters, gelded and carefully fed so as to secure 
the utmost delicacy of flesh. Pullets are young hens. 

Turkeys reach their maturity in eight or nine months, 
and hence young, but well-grown turkeys, are in market 
about the fall and winter holidays. Young hen turkeys are 
regarded as best, being fatter and more juicy ; but the male 
turkeys will be larger for the same age. The legs of young 
turkeys are black ; of old ones reddish and rough. Young 
cocks have small spurs ; old ones large spurs and very 
rough legs. Fat turkeys, with broad, full breasts, are pre- 
ferable. Soft, pliable feet indicate fresh-killed birds. 

Wild turkeys are deemed to be finer in flavor than tame 
ones. They are in season in November, December, and 
January. They are usually sold with their feathers on. 
Small birds have their well-defined seasons, as have other 
kinds of game, but they admit little choice except as fresh. 
VEGETABLES. 

Every good marketer will supply his table with a variety 
of vegetables all the year round. There is hardly a vege- 
table that cannot be had in our markets at any season, 
either fresh or canned. Railroads and steamers connect the 



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S13 



different climates so closely that one hardly knows whether 
he is eating fruits and vegetables in or out of their natural 
season. But it takes a long purse to buy fresh vegetables 
at the North while the ground is yet frozen. Still, there are 
so many vegetables that keep through cold weather that if 
we did not have new ones from the South, there would be, 
nevertheless, a variety from which to choose. Late in the 
spring, when the old vegetables begin to shrink and grow 
rank, we greatly appreciate what comes from the South. 

If one has a good, dry cellar, it is wise to procure in the 
fall vegetables enough for all winter. But if the cellar is 
warm, vegetables will sprout and decay before half the cold 
months have passed. Those best adapted for winter keep- 
ing are onions, squashes, turnips, beets, carrots, parsnips, 
cabbages, and potatoes. Squashes and onions should be 
kept in a very dry room. The others will keep readily in a 
cool, dry cellar, or bedded in sand beneath the reach of frost. 
If vegetables be bought as needed, care must be used to 
get them in good condition. In season, they should never 
.appear wilted, but should be fresh and crisp. At no time 
should they be used if suffering from decay. The utmost 
prudence is needed at this point. A very little waste will 
more than counterbalance all you save by purchasing large 
quantities, and by storing for the winter. 

The luxuries of the world are spread at the feet of the 
customer in our markets ; still, extravagant expenditure is 
by no means necessary. Many delicacies are within the 
reach of all. Those who content themselves with sending to 
the markets, miss many golden opportunities. Those who go, 
see for themselves, and embrace many a favoring chance. 
Personal observation ripens into experience also, and the 
experienced purchasers command the situation. 

These remarks apply with equal force to purchasing of 
the grocer, the baker, the milkman, and all, in short, who 
supply us with the -'="*c""saries of life. There are reliable 



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dealers and those of doubtful integrity; but in every case 
the hope of the household is in its provider. Cultivate 
power in this line. 

It is best to deal steadily with persons whom you have 
tried and found reliable. Do not relinquish your indepen- 
dence, so as to suggest to them the idea that they may im- 
pose on you. Be ready to go elsewhere, if the old service 
falls off; but usually those who are regular dealers at a 
place get the best attention, and errors or failures can be 
rectified with ease. 

In all marketing and dealing with storekeepers keep your 
temper. To lose one's temper and scold or threaten, is un- 
dignified and worse than useless. State your grievances 
calmly and plainly. If they are redressed, all right ; if not 
redressed, you can quietly go elsewhere and bestow your 
patronage. A little suspension of trade with a dealer often 
works wonders. He does not want to lose customers ; but 
such is the waywardness of human nature, that all of us 
need reminders to keep us fully up to duty. Let the dealer 
have these when he needs them, but never at the expense 
of your own self-possession and courteous dignity. 




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II.— CARVING. 

THE ART OF CARVING; REQUISITES; CARVING TURKEY, CHICKEN. 
DUCKS, GEESE, SMALL BIRDS, BEEF, MUTTON, LAMB, VENISON 
HAM, PIG. RABBIT, STEAKS, FISH, TONGUE, AND CALF's-HEAD. 

I "^ VERY person who travels or visits much sees number- 
"^ less illustrations of the varied capacities of carvers. 
Hotel and restaurant life does not make much display 
in this line, as the carving is done out of sight. And yet 
even here the marvelous thinness of the slice, which is so 
immense in its area, demonstrates that somebody is on hand 
who is expert in this line. In private houses the meat and 
the poultry are sometimes carved before they come to the 
table. By whom done, or with what accompaniments of per- 
spiration and emphatic words, the guests know not. But 
meat served thus is chilled and juiceless, and generally dam- 
aged. It is worthy of better treatment. 

Many amusing and not a few irritating examples of 
clumsy carving occur under everybody's eyes. Meat is con- 
demned as tough, knives as dull, dishes as too small, there 
is too much gravy, skewers are not drawn, and a thousand 
other reasons are blurted out by the clumsy carver, as he 
outwardly sweats and inwardly swears at his task. He slops 
gravy on to the cloth ; he drops part of the meat from the 
dish ; he cuts himself by an unfortunate slip of the knife ; 
and sometimes, like a distinguished wit of whom the story 
tells, he lands a fowl in the lap of a lady beside him, 
though probably, unlike that wit, he will not have the grace 
to say, " I will thank you, madam, to return that chicken." 

Every housekeeper should learn to carve. Carving should 
be done at the table by the gentleman of the house, or, in his 

315 









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absence, by the lady, unless some other of the family be an 
export carver. Unless a guest is known to be an expert, or 
unless he volunteers for the duty, he should not be expected 
to carve. He may be a clumsy hand, and the courtesy of 
hospitality should protect him from exposure at this point. 

The carver at a private table should retain his seat while 
carving and serving. To facilitate this, his chair should be 
high, so that he can reach readily to his work. The dish 
should be large enough to prevent soiling the cloth, except 
by some unusual accident. The centre of a carving-dish for 
roa st meats should be raised nearly as high as the surround- 
ing edge, so that a horizontal movement of the knife in slicing 
m3y be made without interference from the edges. No man 
can slice meat neatly if the meat is in the bottom of a deep 
dish, into which he must scoop with his knife as best he 
may. Elevate the meat, but have a surrounding depression 
between the centre and the edge, where the rich juices of the 
meat may accumulate, and where they may be served readily. 

Not all knives are suitable for carving, nor is any one knife 
just the thing for all work in this line. For slicing, a long, 
thin, broad blade is essential. With a fine roast, elevated on 
the dish, and with a good, sharp slicing knife in hand, a 
cool-headed man can hardly help doing neat and rapid work. 

But such a knife is not the one for poultry or rib carving. 
For these uses a shorter blade, which is both narrower and 
stiffer, must be employed. All knives for carving must be 
sharp. There should be a good steel at hand to touch up 
the edge — nothing more, for a dull knife should be ground, 
or whet up on an oil-stone. Any large fork, with a guard 
to prevent accidents, will do. A rest for the knife and fork 
when not in use is desirable. The carver's requisites, there- 
fore, are as follows : A high chair, suitable serving plates, 
two sharp knives, a good fork, and a knife and fork rest. 
With these he is ready for work. Without them he is at 
serious disadvantage. 



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CAR VING. 



317 




Carving a Turkey. — Nothing delights an expert carver 
more than the opportunity to cut up a fine roast turkey. 
Such a man is in doubt whether the eating of the meat even 
is the greater luxury. 

Whether the head of the bird shall lie to the carver's 
right or left is an open question. Better to the right, as 
more work is required on the head end, and in this position 
the knife -hand works less over the hand which holds the 
fork. 

The fork should be inserted astride of the breast-bone, 
just back of its most promi- 
nent point. It should be 
sunk deep enough to pene- 
trate the encasing bone be- 
low the white meat. This 
secures full command of the 
bird. If the company be 
small and the bird fairly 
large, better do all the cutting from one side, reserving the 
other in as perfect a form as possible. 

Remove all the limbs first unless half the bird is to be 
reserved. The neat cut is to remove each drum-stick, or 
lower leg, by a single stroke of the knife, which must ex- 
actly hit the joint. To remove the thigh, or upper leg 
joint, make a V-shaped cut, wide enough at the point whence 
the drum-stick has been cut to include all the meat, but 
converging at the joint, which can always be distinctly seen 
near the back. Two strokes of the knife do this work, each 
of them cutting down to the carcase. A slight outward 
pressure of the knife -blade, applied between the carcase and 
the upper point of the thigh joint, will cause it to drop 
off neatly on the plate. Outside the lines of these cuts, flakes 
of dark meat will remain adhering to the carcase, which 
should now be cut off. They help to meet demands for 
dark meat. 



TURKEY PROPERLY TRUSSED FOR 
ROASTING. 






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In carving the wings, the neat stroke removes the lower 
part, which contains the two bones, by cutting at the inner 
part of the joint, and so turning the blade of the knife as 
to throw that part off in the direction opposite to its natural 
movement. The first joint of each wing then follows, the 
cut being deep enough to fully reach the ball and socket 
joint. A slight motion of the pinion toward the head of the 
bird will suffice usually to detach this part. If it does not, 
the point of the knife may be thrust into the socket of the 
joint to sever the cartilage. This will free it. 

When this dismembering is accomplished, proceed to 
slice the breast meat in thin, broad slices. Clean off all the 
white meat, unless part only is needed. Placing your knife 
close to the front of the breast-bone, and cutting toward the 
neck, you will dislodge the V-shaped bone, corresponding 
to the " merrythought " or " pull-bone " of chickens. To 
dislodge the collar-bones is to many a hard task. But cut 
the cartilages which bind them to the frame of the bird. 
These cartilages are in the cavity between the neck and the 
breast-bone. Through this cavity, thrust your knife out- 
wardly under one of these bones ; make a fulcrum of the 
front part of breast-bone, and a lever of the knife, its edge 
resting on the fulcrum. You can then easily pry up the 
troublesome bone and turn it off to the side. This move- 
ment takes the bone at the best mechanical advantage. It 
must come, and come at once, if this movement be made. 

Now attend to the other end of the bird. Shave off all 
superfluous meat from the carcase. Turn the carcase on its 
side, the back toward you. Insert your knife beside the oil- 
bag and thrust it forward parallel to the spine. It will cut 
its way very easily. A slight outward movement of the 
knife will then throw off these side bones, which are choice 
pieces, yielding the juiciest of the dark meat. The ribs 
may now be cut through with ease from front to rear, about 
midway from breast to back. The breast-bone is incapable- 



CAR VING. 



310 




of further division, but the back easily divides into six parts. 
Turn it back up and hold with the fork ; separate the oil- 
bag, about an inch of the spine with it ; lift the 
projecting spine with the knife back and it will 
break readily, carrying one rib with it. Cut off 
from each side of the remaining spine the rib 
parts adherent to it ; then divide the remaining 
spine just back of the neck. 

An entire drum-stick, or second joint, need not 
be served to any one person, but had better be 
divided among several. A fair-sized turkey 
divided on the above method will furnish a good 
supply for twenty people. 

It will be asked, however, how can one become ^' b> '' ne f 

easy Dreak- 

so expert in hitting these joints ? Frequently 
the carver tries, and tries again, but tries in vain, 
to strike the right place for his knife. There is 
one way only to succeed in this art. The anatomy 
of the turkey or chicken, or any other animal, must 
be carefully studied. Do it in this way. Whenever a tur- 
key is brought into your house and is made ready for the 
roasting, place it on its back, as it will lie on the plate when 
it comes to the table. Carefully manipulate it, and note 
exactly where every joint lies. Imagine yourself about to 
carve it. Where would you put the knife to throw off that 
drum-stick ? How would you cut to throw off the thigh 
bone. Read the preceding directions ; apply them in fancy 
to the bird as you see and handle it ; then carry it all out at 
the table when the bird is cooked. 

No surgeon could do his work except he had thus prac- 
ticed on actual subjects in dissection. He must know by 
actual trial just what to do and how to do it. So must the 
carver know. Chickens, ducks, geese, small birds, meat, 
roasting pigs, every article, in short, which he expects to carve 
must be understood beforehand; then success will be his. 



age. a, c, e t 
and b, d, /. 
lines of sepa- 
ration of side- 
bones. a,g, 
6, h, rib por- 
tion. 



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Carving Roast Chicken. — The same course precisely as has 
been prescribed for carving turkey must 
be followed with chickens. The only 
difference is in the formation of the 
" pull-bone " or " merrythought," but 
this makes no difference whatever in the 
cutting of the bird. 




CHICKEN PROPER- 
LY TRUSSED FOR 
ROASTING. 

[Feet may be removed at 
option.] 




GOOSE PROPERLY TRUSSED FOR 
ROASTING. 



Carving Roast Ducks and Geese. — These 
are more difficult than turkey or chick- 
ens, for the reason that they are constitu- 
tionally more sinewy in the joints and 
they have far less flesh proportionately. 

They are barrel-shaped, 
with thin layers of meat 
instead of the fine 
masses of flesh found 
on the turkey or on fine 
chickens. The leg joints 
lie farther to the rear, 
and higher on the side 
than in land fowls. They are not so easily reached, therefore. 
Their anatomy must be 
studied, however. It is the 
only way to obtain com- 
mand of the carcase. In 
carving, dismember the 
bird as in other cases. 
Then cut the meat in long, 
narrow strips, along the 
sides and breast of the bird, 
and use these as the choice 
cuts. The legs and wings 
may be given out if desired or if the supply be short. Duck 
is but a side dish, however ; it is supposed to be served with 




BREAST OF DUCK 
PROPERLY 
TRUSSED. 

[The lines show the 
direction of cutting 
the breast meat.] 




BACK OF DUCK 
PROPERLY 
TRUSSED. 

[Feet twisted to lie on 
the back.] 



CARVIXG. 



321 




other dishes, and so to be served lightly. Goose is some- 
times the main piece, but not often so at elaborate feasts. 

Carving Broiled Chickens. — Chickens for broiling are pre- 
sumably young and tender. If not, thorough steaming before 
they are broiled will do something for them. They are 
trussed in such shape usually that joints are not easily 
struck. But study the bird when trussed. See where joints 
do lie and cut them. If the birds are really young and ten- 
der, however, they may be halved or quartered, cutting 
through the bones directly and so serving them. 

Carving Smaller Birds. — Smaller 

birds which need carving, may 

simply be split longitudinally, just 

beside the breast-bone and the 

spine. Their bones can be cut 

easily. This will apply to pigeon, 

partridge, prairie hen, pheasant, smaller bird properly 

trussed for roasting. 
etc. 

Carving Roast Beef. — Pieces of roast beef vary so that no 
one rule covers all. A safe general direction, however, is 
to study carefully just what is in the piece before it is 
cooked. Know your meat before you attempt to carve it. 
Another general rule, applicable to all meats indeed, is to 
cut across the grain in all cases. Meat cut with the grain 
is stringy and fibrous. If cut across the grain, all the longi- 
tudinal flakes of flesh and the minute sinews are cut so 
short that any toughness existing in them is wholly con- 
cealed. The first slice, by this process, will always be a 
brown, outside cut. Slices should always be thin, but not 
so as to seem ragged. In carving ribs of beef the knife 
may be thrust along close to the ribs, so as to separate the 
meat from them. The cuts then made across the grain will 
separate the slices with ease and neatness. Never cut beef 
across the bone. It is the easiest way, but also the poorest. 



MEMORANDUM 

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MEMORANDUM 
ox 

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322 



HO USE HOLD MA NA GEME NT. 



Carving Roasts of Mutton. — A leg of mutton is carved as a 
ham, by cutting down to the bone, from the outer edge, 
making the cuts converge on the bone, so freeing each slice 
as it is cut. 

A shoulder of mutton should be carved as the leg. In 
each case, when the choice cuts are exhausted, clip off the 
remaining meat as best you can, always across the grain. 

Saddle of mutton is carved in several ways: ist, in" longi- 
tudinal slices along the backbone ; 2d, by transverse slices, 
each taking in a rib, which makes thick and clumsy por- 
tions ; 3d, by oblique slices, not taking in the bones, but 
forming a slight angle with them. The latter method is 
deemed preferable by most carvers. 

In all roasts which include the ribs the backbone should 
be well and cleanly cut through by the butcher, between every 
pair of ribs. Otherwise no satisfactory carving can be done. 

Carving Roasts of Lamb. — -The cut shows a fore-quarter of 
lamb with its outer side uppermost. This joint is first to 

be cut so as to divide the 



shoulder from the rest of 
the quarter, which is called 
the target. For this pur- 
pose, put the fork firmly 
into the shoulder joint, and 
then cut underneath the 
blade-bone, beginning at a, 

FORF.QUARTER OF LAMB. and continuc cutting all 

around in the direction of the circular line, and pretty close 
Ko the under part of the blade-bone. Some cut the shoulder 
large, while others take off no more meat with it than is 
barely necessary to remove the blade-bone. It is most con- 
venient to place the shoulder on a separate dish. This is 
carved in the same way as the shoulder of mutton. When 
the shoulder is removed, a lemon may be squeezed over 
that part of the remainder of the joint where the knife has 




CARVING. 



323 



passed ; this gives a flavor to the meat which is generally 
approved. Then proceed to cut completely through from 
b to c, following the line across the bones as cracked by the 
butcher, and this will divide the ribs (d) from the brisket (e). 
Tastes vary in giving preference to the ribs or the brisket. 

Other parts of lamb are carved as mutton. The fat is 
very delicate and should be served to all the guests. 

Carving Roasts of Venison.— These resemble roasts of 
mutton so closely that no different directions for their carv- 
ing need be given. 

Carving Ham.— Boiled or baked ham may be served either 
side up. The inner edge of the ham, which lay adjacent to 
the body, is rather more tender than the edge, which lay 
toward the tail. Slices should be cut directly from the edge 
to the bone, cutting out the middle portions first. Let the 
cuts converge upon the bone every time, so that each slice 
is set free at once. When the choice cuts are gone, trim up 
the remaining parts neatly as possible, and always across 
the grain- The knuckle end of a ham furnishes the leaner 
and drier cuts. Some prefer carving hams with a more 
slanting cut, rather than a direct, right-angled cut upon the 
bone, beginning at the thick end, and so continuing through- 
out. This mode is, however, apt to be very wasteful, unless 
the carver be careful to take away both fat and lean in due 
proportion. 

Carving Roast Pig. — The cut below represents a pig roasted 
whole and served in the most 
approved style. Many, how- 
ever, separate the head before 
serving, and garnish the body 
with the ears, jaw, etc. The 
head may be severed by a 
neat cut around the neck, and a lit.tle sideward motion, but 
this is not necessary, as the cheek or jaw can be removed 
21 




WHOLE ROAST TIG. 



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324 



HO USE HOLD MA NA CEMENT. 



without removing the head. The shoulder should then be 
taken off from the body, by passing the knife under it in a 
circular direction, and the leg separated as shown in the 
line d, e,f. The ribs may then be divided into two or more 
parts, helping at the same time an ear or jaw with it, with 
some of the sauce also. Pieces may be cut from the legs 
and shoulders. Some consider the neck end the finest part, 
while others give the ribs the preference. 

Carving Roast Rabbit. — Begin by cutting longitudinally 
from head to tail near to the backbone, then make a corres- 
ponding cut on the other side of the backbone, leaving the 
back and the head in one distinct piece. Cut off the legs 
at the hip-joint, and take off the wing, or fore leg, nearly as 
you would the wing of a bird, carrying the knife round in a 

circular line. The ribs 
are of little importance, 
as they are bare of meat. 
Divide the back into 
three or four equal por- 
tions. The head is then 
to be cut off, and the 
lower jaw divided from 

RABBIT, OR HARE, PROPERLY TRUSSED t^e upper. By Splitting 
FOR ROASTING. , r i & 

the upper part ot the 
head in the middle, you have the brains, which are prized 
by epicures. The comparative goodness of different parts 
of a rabbit will depend much on the age, and also upon 
the cooking. The back and the legs are always the best 
parts. 

Carving Steaks, etc. — Where there is a tenderloin in a 
beefsteak, it should be divided among the party with the 
other portion. If there are too many persons to allow each 
a share, give ladies and guests the preference. Epicures eat 
the tenderloin at the last. As a bright boy said, " You 




CARVING. 



325 



ought always to eat the best last ; then you feel as if you 
have had all best." 

Carving Fish. — This is more a serving than a carving. 
The meat of fish is usually so tender that cutting is unne- 
cessary. Skillful separation of the flakes is what is needed. 

A silver knife, or fish slice, and a silver fish fork, broad 
at the tines, are desirable. Steel tools impart a disagreeable 
odor to fish. Fish should be served in neat, unbroken por- 
tions, never in scraps and bits. 

In many kinds of fish the backbone may be taken out 
entire, as in all the mackerel family as served for the table. 
This is a nfcat proceeding for company ; but for home uses 
the backbone is preferred with the fish, because of the 
very savory morsels which adhere to it. 

The skin and fins of the turbot are regarded as very delu 
cate. It, therefore, should be split along the backbone, at 
its side, and then cut into cross sections so that part of a fin 
shall go with each portion. This is the neatest method of 
serving. 

Carving Tongue. — The juicy and fatter part of the tongue 
is at its thick end or root. Some prefer the smaller and 
drier end, however. If the whole tongue is not likely to be 
needed, cut off its tip in one piece, and on the main portion 
work backward toward the butt end. Do not cut squarely 
across, as it leaves the slices unduly small ; but cut on an 
angle, so doubling the area of the slices. 

Carving a Calfs Head. — Cut the external meat in strips 
from the nose to the back of the head. Some deem the eye 
a delicacy. It may be removed with the point of the knife, if 
requested, but do not puncture it with the fork or the knife. 
The palate is a choice part. It may be cut from under tne 
head, with its surrounding parts, all of which are delicate 
morsels. The jawbone may be removed also, and will dis' 
close fine meat. 



MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






III.— SERVING MEALS. 

METHODS OF SERVING MEALS; RUSSIAN, ENGLISH, FRENCH, AND 
AMERICAN STYLES; TABLES, TABLE-CLOTHS, NAPKINS, AND 
DECORATIONS ; FINGER-BOWLS ; DUE CEREMONY ; WHAT TO 
AVOID ; GARNISHES J ROYAL DISPLAYS. 

METHODS of serving meals differ widely. The items 
of conveniences and pecuniary ability always become 
important elements in the case. Taste, too, enters 
largely into it. Some people need the formal and the cere- 
monious. Others despise these and prefer the free-and-easy 
plan. There are national methods also, which largely rule 
among the refined and elegant. 

One of these methods, the Russian, decorates the centre 
of the table elaborately with flowers, and surrounds it at the 
outset, with the dessert tastefully displayed. This secures a 
delightsome central object. The several dishes are then 
brought to the table carved and ready for use, each dish 
being served as a separate course, one vegetable only being 
allowed to appear with it. 

The English method sets the whole of each course at 
once, no matter how many dishes it may contain. This, it 
is objected, allows the dishes to cool, and one often vitiates 
another. The dishes which require carving are by this 
method first placed on the table, and then removed to a 
side table for cutting and serving. 

The French method serves everything as a separate 
course, even each vegetable, unless it be simply a garnish 
for another dish. The American plan, however, serves at 
least one vegetable with each substantial dish. At the 
more formal meals among us, carving is done at the side 
tables, but in the genuine home dinners the work is done at 

3?,6 



SERVING MEALS. 



;27 



the table by the host himself. If, however, he cannot do 
the honors of the serving with ease, let the work be done 
by another, at the side table. 

When the general plan of the dinner management is set- 
tled, those who are to do the various parts of the work 
must be thoroughly instructed. A servant not sufficiently 
intelligent to learn the required part well, and to do it pro- 
perly, is too stupid for satisfactory service with company or 
at a purely family gathering. 

Square end tables are now the proper style. They should 
be sufficiently roomy to wholly avoid crowding. A spot- 
lessly white table-cloth should be spread, with another 
under it to deaden sound and make a softer appearance, 
The cloth should not be very stiffly starched, but it should 
be nicely polished and beautifully glossy. It should hang 
two feet from the top edge, the corners gathered up, if needs 
be, to prevent their drooping on the floor. Napkins should 
be large and heavy. Such texture does not need much 
starch. The glass and silverware should be perfect in 
brightness. It may be of inexpensive kind, but it must be 
scrupulously clean. 

Colored table-cloths of ornamental patterns are allowable 
for luncheon or tea. They are not in place where hot meats 
are served. Nor are colored napkins. Too often these 
deep tinted articles are used "to save washing," which 
means " to conceal dirt." Not unfrequently covers and nap- 
kins of this kind are kept in use when their rank odor cries 
out for the wash-tub, even though their soiled appearance 
does not. The doily, or DOiley, as some will have it from 
the proper name of its first reputed maker, is a small, colored 
napkin used with fruits and wines. Stains will not show so 
readily upon these, but they must always be scrupulously 
fresh and clean. To conceal filth under rich coloring is 
sacrilege of the worst sort, but to bring it to the table, and 
ask guests to wipe their lips with it, is a crime. 



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328 



HO USE HOLD MAN A GEMENT. 



A great variety of ornaments and adornments are admis, 
sible on a table, but nothing is so pure and so appropriate 
as a handsome display of ferns or flowers. The flowers 
should not be just such as ladies wear so profusely and so 
beautifully in their belts and on their dresses. Larger blooms 
are preferable for the table, especially those of the pure white 
and fine texture belonging to the lily family. 

It is quite the proper and beautiful thing to place a neat- 
bouquet beside each plate, in tasteful bouquet-holders. For 
gentlemen the little bunching suitable for the button-hole is 
desirable. For ladies the belt bouquet will meet the case. 
The floral centre-piece may be composed of small bouquets,, 
which at the end of the meal may be distributed. 

Fruit pieces and handsome confectionery pieces may be 
disposed to advantage in ornamenting the table. Tasty 
folding of spotless napkins is so important a decoration that 
the subject will be treated fully farther on. These may be 
perched in polished goblets, while bouquets, or small rolls 
of bread nestle amid their snowy folds. Little arts like 
these embellish a table, and delight the guests. 

But these embellishments must not be overdone. What 
will be correct for a large table will be too much for a small 
one, and what will be just right for a small table will look 
thin and meagre on a large one. Study the proprieties of 
every occasion. What suits once does not suit forever. 

Embellishments may be liberally bestowed upon the din- 
ing-room itself. In addition to its permanent decorations, 
flowers are always admissible. At the great ball on March 
20th, 1883, at the Vanderbilt Mansion in New York, the 
decorations of the supper-room were absolutely regal. The 
wails were completely hidden with palms and ferns, from 
which a countless number of orchids were suspended. Two 
large fountains were introduced into the far corners of the 
room. The doors of the main entrance to the supper-room 
"•vere in an open position and were completely covered with 



SERVIA r G MEALS. 



329 



roses and lilies of the valley. In the centre of the room a 
large palm towered almost to the ceiling, and about it from 
the dome was suspended an immense Bougen Villa vine, the 
tendrils of which drooped in bunches from the branches of 
the palm. Throughout the room there were many stands 
and vases filled with flowers, the entire effect more 
resembling fairyland than an earthly home. Few can rival 
such a display, of course, but all enjoy at least a pen-peep 
upon such princely splendor. 

No ornament should be so large as to obscure to any 
great extent a view of the entire table, or to conceal any of 
its guests. As many knives, forks, and spoons as will be 
needed for the various courses may be placed at each plate, 
though, to avoid the display of so much cutlery, a better 
style is to supply these accessories as needed. Goblets and 
wine-glasses, if the latter be used, should be on the table at 
the start. Large spoons, with salt and pepper casters, 
should be on the table also. The dessert-plates, finger- 
bowls, etc., should stand ready on the sideboard, awaiting 
the time when they shall be needed. The hot closet should 
be well stocked with dishes needing to be used warm. 

Finger-bowls should be half filled with water. In Paris they 
are served with warm water scented with peppermint. A 
slice of lemon in cold water answers the purpose entirely, as 
it removes any grease from fingers or lips. A geranium 
leaf may float in the water. Its fragrance on the fingers, if 
it be pressed, will be agreeable. It is customary to place a 
fruit napkin, or doily, on the dish on which the finger-bowl 
rests, to avoid the rattle of the bowl, and to protect the dish 
from injury if it be highly ornamented. Little openworked 
mats will, however, answer better. Do not summon your 
company to dinner by a bell. Country hotels and cheap 
boarding-houses may do that, but not a refined home, espe- 
cially when guests are present. 

Soup is dished by the lady of the house at a home dinner 



MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 





.«0 



HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 



Meat is cut and dished by the gentleman of the house 
Vegetables, bread, butter, water, etc., are served by the 
waiter, dessert by the hostess, except in the case of melons, 
requiring to be cut at the table, which is the work of the 
host. 

Home meals should all be sufficiently ceremonious to 
dispense with haste and confusion. On the other hand, they 
should not run into stiffness and Irigidity. Bright, cheery, 
pleasant chat should enliven every meal. If the leading dish 
be nothing but hash, let it be served in good style and amid 
a profusion of genial, social sunshine. 

What to Avoid. 

1st. — Never use table-linen which is open to the suspicion 
of being soiled. The napkin-ring business is of question- 
able propriety. Why not, as at hotels, furnish a clean nap- 
kin to each person at every meal ? 

2d. — Crockery with an abundance of nicks and splints 
and cracks is not unsightly merely, but, where the glazing 
is broken, the porous material absorbs grease and dish water, 
making these spots dense with unsavory and unwholesome 
matter. 

3d. — Partly emptied dishes become unsightly, and some- 
times positively repulsive. They look like refuse and scraps. 
At the great State dinners at the Tuileries, no guest saw a 
partly emptied dish. A full, beautifully garnished dish was 
presented for his approval, upon expressing which, his per- 
sonal plate was taken to a side table and supplied from 
another serving dish. 

4th. — An overloaded table or plate satiates appetite 
rather than stimulates it. A gracious expectancy of what 
is to come is a great help at the table. 

5th. — A stinted supply is very discouraging. To the ap- 
prehension of a lack of food, the moral sense of mortification- 
's added in this case. 



TjJ 



SERVING MEALS. 



331 



6th.— Beware of ill-assorted dinners or tea-parties. An 
occasion intended to be a pleasure is often a pest for lack of 
care in this regard. This caution applies to the selection of 
guests, and more strongly to the disposition of guests at the 
table. ' Secure fitness both in the viands presented and in 
the parties present. 

7 th.— Do not inaugurate new features at a dinner party, 
unless you are sure you have the mastery of them, and that 
when done in a masterly way they will certainly prove 

^Sth.— Beware of the delusion that hospitality is expressed 
by the weight of its beef and mutton, and the multitude and 

rarity of its viands. 

9 th._Have no meddlesome, noisy, or slovenly service. 
Waiters should be attired neatly, and should wear light 
shoes or slippers. They should take no part in the social 
proceedings, not so much, indeed, as to smile at the best 
things. On formal occasions the man-servant should wear 
a dress-coat, white vest, and white necktie. The maid- 
servant should be attired in a neat, inconspicuous dress, 
with spotless white apron. 

I0 th.— Both haste and slowness should be shunned. At 
the finished French dinners, the courses will not average 
more than five minutes each. French waiters are marvel- 
ously expert, however, in removing and replacing dishes. 

Garnishes. 

Much of the attractiveness of a table depends on the 
garnishes, which are added to certain dishes to embellish or 
beautify them. A few hints on this subject will be of value^ 

Parsley is the almost universal garnish to all kinds of 
cold meat, poultry, fish, butter, cheese, etc. 

Horse-radish is the garnish for roast beef, and for fish in 
general ; for the latter, slices of lemon are sometimes laid 
alternately with heaps of horse-radish. 



MEMORANDUM 

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FRIENDS' RECIPES 





MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 





« / '.v 




B32 



HOUSEHOLD MAX A CEMENT. 



Slices of lemon for boiled fowl, turkey, and fish, and foi 
roast veal and calf's head. 

Carrot in slices for boiled beef, hot or cold. They may 
be cut into ornamental forms if desired. 

Barberries, fresh or preserved, for game. 

Fried smelts for turbot. 

Red beet-root sliced for cold meat, boiled beef, and salt 
fish. 

Fried sausages or force-meat balls for roast turkey, capon, 
or fowl. 

Fennel for mackerel and salmon, whether fresh or pickled. 

Lobster coral and parsley for boiled fish. 

Currant jelly for game, also for custard or bread-pud- 
ding. 

Seville oranges in slices for wild ducks, widgeons, teal, 
and such game. 

Mint, either with or without parsley, for roast lamb, 
whether hot or cold. 

Pickled gerkins, capers, or onions, for some boiled meats, 
stews, etc. 

A red pepper, or small red apple, for the mouth of a roast 

pig- 
Spots of red and black pepper alternated on the fat side 

of a boiled ham, which side should lie uppermost on the 

serving dish. 

Sliced eggs, showing the white and yellow parts, for 
chicken salad. 

Sprays of celery top for salads, cold meats, etc. 

Royal Displays. 

A peep at some royal table displays is valuable as sug* 
gesting what may be done. Perhaps the grandest display 
ever made was by Baron Rothschild in honor of the last 
Napoleon when at the height of his power, some five years 
before his fall. The entertainment was given at Rothschild'* 



SERVING MEALS. 



333 



regal pleasure-house of Ferrieres, thirty miles out of Paris. 
The cost of the out-door decorations alone exceeded 
$100,000. Workmen were put on the road in vast gangs, 
and had it prepared with asphaltum every inch of the way. 
Chinese lanterns and Bengal lights rendered it brilliant as 
day. Forests of new trees in full growth were set out 
wherever the roadside happened to be bare. The imperial 
carriage, which left the Tuileries at five o'clock p. m., passed 
through continuous masses of jubilant spectators. Wine 
and edibles were given by the Rothschilds' orders to all 
along the route who bore decorations of any sort. 

The chateau itself, which is as roomy as the Capitol at 
Washington, was a blaze of light and rich drapery. The din- 
ing-room and the feast were thus described in a leading 
journal : 

" It was such a scene as the mind conjures in Aladdin's 
palace, built by the slaves of the gold and jewel caves. At 
a vast height from the floor a narrow gallery runs around 
the chamber. From this were suspended folds of golden 
drapery, in which some legend of Bonapartist glory flashed 
out in jeweled letters. The walls were encrusted with 
treasures that the house of Rothschild had been centuries 
collecting. The tables were a mass of glittering gold, even 
to the candelabra The dinner began at nine o'clock and 
was served by waiters in livery rivaling the imperial in 
sumptuousness. The knives and forks were of solid gold, 
and when the dinner was ended the head of the house 
solemnly directed them gathered together and in presence 
of the Emperor ordered them melted and the mass sent to 
the mint, declaring that, having been sanctified by imperial 
use, they should never be degraded to baser hands." 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 





MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






IV.— THE BILL OF FARE. 

bills of fare needed; edibles in season ; what to have fofc 
breakfast, dinner, luncheon, tea, and supper; plain 
luncheons; plain dinners; quantities needed; odd 
bills ok fare. 

WHAT shall be served for a meal is in most homes a hap. 
hazard affair. Somebody wants a certain dish, or 
something happens to be in the house, or a huckster 
comes along offering a certain article at a low price, and so the 
diet for the day is determined. The religious customs of some 
persons decide the bill of fare for certain days, and so far their 
domestic management is controlled. Others, especially in 
cheap boarding-houses, have a bill of fare inflexible as the 
ancient laws of the Medes and Persians. You know when 
to look for that greasy vegetable soup, made out of — fortu- 
nately for the eater, he knows not what. Then comes cab- 
bage day — regular as the week revolves it comes ; and that 
beefsteak and onions — the house is odorous with it, and you 
are greeted with its fragrance as you clamber up the frcnt 
steps. The desserts, too, are fearfully regular. Boiled rice, 
corn-starch pudding, huckleberry pie in its season, canned 
peaches both in season and out of season, apple pie or cus- 
tard pie — these, with a few more of the same family, march 
on in their ceaseless round with the same old sequence as 
the figures follow each other in a cheap puppet show. These 
are travesties on a bill of fare. They burlesque the menu. 

A housekeeper should plan out her table offerings with 
great care. Her dishes should suit the seasons. On a 
frosty day in midwinter substantial, well-seasoned food is 
needed. It renews a hungry man. It stays by him. It does 
him good. But the same dinner in midsummer will disgust 

as4 



THE BILL OF FARE. 



335 



rather than delight. On a hot, exhausting day, heavy soups, 
substantial meats, and rich desserts are out of harmony. 
Light meats, delicate vegetables, and cooling desserts are 
then in demand. 

Dishes .should suit the days of the week also. What can 
be furnished by one fire or wash-day or ironing-day is not 
the same as can be furnished conveniently on other days. 
The man who proposed dumplings for wash-day dessert be- 
cause they could be boiled in the same kettle with the 
clothes was on the true line of progress, though his appli- 
cation was not a happy one. The idea is that harmony 
shall exist. The washing must not suffer for the dinner, 
nor the dinner for the washing. Plan the bill of fare to fit 
the movements of the domestic establishment. 

A third point to be gained by planning is unity in each 
meal. Some articles of food, delicious in themselves, are 
unpalatable, and even unwholesome, in combination. 
Cucumbers or beets and milk, fish and milk, lobster and 
ice-cream, are combinations of this class ; while peaches 
and cream, lamb and green peas, stewed chicken and waf- 
fles, catfish and coffee, are fitly wedded, and no man can 
put them asunder. To secure all the above-named happy 
coincidences and combinations is the mission of the well- 
digested bill of fare. 

Of course, the pocket controls many of these things. He 
who cannot have his turkey and venison and plum-pudding 
on Christmas day, may, nevertheless, find satisfactory chew- 
ing on his boiled goose, and savory garnishing in his sour- 
krout or cabbage. But the poorest meals will be the better, 
like the artist's colors, when " mixed with brains." Think 
and plan. How can these things be best done ? Settle that 
question and carry out your conclusion with a queenly 
grace. But be open for the teachings of experience. What 
does not work well be ready to change. Those who never 
change their plans are poor learners. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




-.m 



HO USE HOLD MAN A GEMENT. 



When planning home meals, and especially company- 
meals, it is of prime importance to know just what is in 
season. Particulars on this point vary with different locali- 
ties, but New York is the metropolis, and its markets are 
on the grandest scale; its market is made the standard, 
therefore, in the following table of edible merchandise in its 
various seasons. 




SPRING :— MARCH, APRIL, AND MAY. 

Shell Fish. — Clams, hard crabs, lobster, mussels, oysters, 
prawns, scallops, shrimps, terrapins, turtle. 

Pish. — Bass (black, striped, and sea), blueflsh, cod, eels, 
haddock, halibut, herrings, mackerel, muscalonge, pickerel, 
pompan, prawns, salmon, shad (North River), sheepshead, 
shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, turbot, trout (brook, lake, and 
salmon, May to July). 

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, sweet-breads, veal. 

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, geese, and turkeys. 

Game. — Ducks and geese until May ist, pigeons, plover, 
snipe, squabs, after April. 

Vegetables. — Asparagus, Jerusalem artichokes, lettuce, 
potatoes (sweet and white), radishes, spinach, sprouts, water- 
cresses, and all the vegetables of the winter list. 

Fruit. — The winter list, with the addition of pie-plant, 
pineapple, strawberries. 

Nuts. — The winter list, with the addition of Brazil nuts. 




SUMMER:— JUNE, JULY, AND AUGUST. 
Shell Fish. — Clams, soft crabs, lobster, turtle in August. 
Pish. — Bass (black and sea), blueflsh, eels, flounders, 



THE BILL OF FARE. 



337 



haddock, herring, mackerel, muscalonge, salmon, sheeps^ 
head, turbot, trout (brook, lake, and salmon). 

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, and veal. 

Poultry. — Chickens, ducks. 

Game. — Snipe, woodcock (after July). 

Vegetables. — String beans, beets, cabbage, cauliflower, car- 
rots, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, lettuce, macaroni, okra, 
onions, green peas, potatoes, rice, radishes, summer squash, 
tomatoes, turnips. 

Fruits. — Apples, apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, 
grapes, lemons, oranges, peaches, pears, pineapples, raspber- 
ries, strawberries, imported dried fruits. 



AUTUMN:— SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, AND NOVEMBER. 

Shell Fish. — Clams, soft crabs, lobster, mussels, oysters, 
scallops, turtle, terrapin. 

Fish. — Black bass, bluefish, flounders, mackerel, musca- 
longe, perch, pickerel, pike, salmon, sheepshead, skates, 
smelts, soles, sturgeon, trout (brook, lake, and salmon) ; 
white fish. 

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton. 

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys. 

Game. — Brant, duck, goose (September to May), prairie- 
chicken, ruff-grouse (September to January), venison until 
February, quail and rabbits (October 1st to January 1st), 
snipe, woodcock (July 3d to February 1st). 

Vegetables.— Artichokes, beans (lima and other shell 
beans), beets, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, celery, 
corn, cucumbers, eggplant, lettuce, macaroni, okra, onions, 
potatoes (white and sweet), rice, squash, tomatoes, turnips. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






338 



HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 



Fruits. — Apples, bananas, blackberries, dates, figs, grapes,, 
lemons, oranges, peaches, and pears. 

Nuts. — Black walnuts, chestnuts, hazelnuts, shellbarks. 



WINTER:— DECEMBER, JANUARY, AND FEBRUARY 

Shell Fish. — Clams, mussels, oysters, scallops, terrapin, 
turtle. 

Fish. — Bass (black and striped), bluefish, cod, eels, floun- 
ders, haddock, muscalonge, perch, pickerel, pike, salmon, 
skate, smelts, sturgeon, white fish. 

Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork. 

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys. 

Game. — Brant (until May), duck (wild, until May), wood- 
duck (until January), geese (until May), prairie-chickens, 
ruff-grouse, snipe, venison (until February), quail, rabbits 
(until December), woodcock (until February). 

Vegetables. — Artichokes, beets, dried beans, broccoli, cab- 
bage, carrots, celery, macaroni, onions, parsnips, potatoes 
(sweet and white), rice, salsify, turnips, winter squash, all 
canned vegetables. 

Fruit. — Apples, bananas, cranberries, dates, figs, ginger, 
lemons, oranges, pears, prunes, raisins, all kinds of canned 
fruits, and compotes of dried fruits. 

Nuts. — Almonds, black walnuts, butternuts, coccanuts, 
English walnuts, filberts, pecan nuts, shellbarks. 



With such a range accessible, surely, good meals can be 
selected in abundant variety. But what shall be selected 
for ordinary use in the family ? To suggest answers to this 
question, standard bills of fare for each season are appended. 
Remember, however, these are only to suggest happy com- 



THE BILL OF FARE. 



339 



binations. Try one or more of them entire, or in part, and 
see whether they suit you or not. At least they will lead 
toward good results. 



FAMILY BREAKFASTS FOR SPRING. 

No. 1. — Oatmeal and milk ; stewed apples ; rolls, butter, 
coffee, chocolate, broma, or tea ; beefsteak, broiled oysters ; 
Lyonnaise potatoes, poached eggs on toast ; rice cakes, sirup. 

No. 2. — Cracked wheat and milk ; stewed prunes ; bread 
or rolls, butter, coffee, etc. ; broiled ham with fried eggs ; 
mutton and potato hash, browned ; baked potatoes ; flannel 
cakes, powdered sugar. 

No. 3. — Fried hominy ; stewed dried peaches ; rolls or 
bread, butter, coffee, etc. ; mutton-chops, fried bacon ; 
broiled eggs, potatoes, Saratoga style ; waffles, cinnamon, 
and sugar. 

FAMILY BREAKFASTS FOR SUMMER. 

No 1. — Coarse hominy boiled ; strawberries and cream ; 
bread, butter, coffee, etc. ; broiled chicken, stewed potatoes ; 
dried beef dressed with cream ; radishes, muffins. 

No. 2. — Oatmeal and milk; fresh currants and sugar; 
buttered toast, bread, coffee, etc. ; broiled blue or white fish ; 
stewed potatoes ; minced mutton served on toast ; shirred 

eggs- 
No. 3. — Cracked wheat and milk ; fresh raspberries ; rolls, 
butter, coffee, etc. ; cold roast beef, sliced thin ; frizzled ham 
with eggs ; fried potatoes, sliced cucumbers ; Graham gems, 
or pop-overs. 

FAMILY BREAKFASTS FOR AUTUMN. 

No. 1. — Oatmeal mush fried in slices ; peaches and cream, 
or blackberries ; brown bread, rolls, butter, coffee, etc. ; 
22 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 





MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




340 



HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 



lamb chops, fried potatoes ; mushrooms baked and served 
on toast ; sliced tomatoes, dressed as a salad. 

No. 2. — Hulled corn with cream ; baked pears, grapes ; 
bread, butter, coffee, etc.; veal cutlets, potato balls; omelette 
with grated ham ; cornmeal pancakes. 

No. 3. — Coarse hominy boiled and browned ; peaches and 
cream ; bread, butter, coffee, etc. ; beefsteak, oysters on 
toast ; stewed potatoes ; muffins. 




IjJ 



FAMILY BREAKFASTS FOR WINTER. 

No. 1. — Fried mush ; baked sweet apples ; rolls, bread, but- 
ter, coffee, etc. ; turkey hash, stewed potatoes ; salt mack- 
erel ; buckwheat cakes, sirup. 

No. 2. — Cracked wheat ; baked pears ; rolls, Graham 
bread, butter, coffee, etc. ; sausages garnished with fried sour 
apples ; quail on toast, baked potatoes ; buckwheat cakes, 
sirup. 

No. 3. — Fried hominy ; stewed apples ; bread, butter, cof- 
fee, etc. ; venison steak, cold sparerib, sliced ; potatoes, 
Saratoga style ; buckwheat cakes, sirup. 




FAMILY DINNERS. 



In January. — Beef-soup with vegetables ; bream with 
oyster sauce ; boiled potatoes ; corned beef with carrots , 
stewed kidneys ; Spanish puffs. 

In February. — Ox-tail soup ; boiled chicken ; fried pars- 
nips, caper sauce ; fillets of bass with pickles ; mince patties. 

In March. — Oysters with lettuce; roast sirloin of beef' 
potato croquettes ; cabbage boiled with cream ; baked lemon 
pudding. 



THE BILL OF FARE. 



341 



In April. — Fried oysters, sliced cucumbers ; smelts fried 
with fat salt pork ; baked potatoes ; lamb chops with baked 
macaroni ; pumpkin pie and coffee. 

In May. — Clam soup ; boiled leg of mutton, tomato sauce ; 
mashed potatoes ; oyster-plant in batter; lettuce and green 
onions ; raisin-pudding, sherry sauce. 

In June. — Salmon ; chicken-soup with barley ; cold roast 
mutton with boiled cauliflower ; lettuce with cives and olives 
mixed ; Charlotte russe. 

In July. — Beef soup with noodles ; rock bass with fried 
potatoes ; tomatoes with slices of chicken, dressed in may- 
onnaise sauce ; peaches and cream. 

In August. — Clams on the halfshell, pickles ; broiled ten- 
der-loin steak ; green peas and asparagus ; strawberry- 
short-cake and coffee. 

In September. — Oyster soup ; broiled eels with cucumbers ; 
braised fowl ; string-beans ; celery with capers ; currant tart 
with whipped cream. 

In October. — Beef soup ; halibut with parsley sauce ; the 
beef with the vegetables ; potato salad ; tapioca-pudding, 
sauce of sliced fruits ; cream cakes. 

In November. — Mock turtle ; turkey, cranberry sauce ; rice 
croquettes ; egg-plant stuffed ; snipe, fried oysters ; water 
cresses with hard-boiled eggs ; German puffs. 

In December. — Puree of beans ; broiled herring, Dutch 
sauce ; ribs of beef; boiled potatoes ; stewed tomatoes ; 
pumpkin pie. 



In many of the cities Tea has passed away. Late dinners 
are in order. Luncheon is served to those at home at mid- 
day, which includes a cold cut, bread and butter, cheese, a 
glass of milk or cup of tea, and possibly a light dessert. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




342 



HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 



A bowl of hot, light soup is very acceptable at luncheon 
also. Luncheons are sometimes made quite elaborate, and 
become very pleasant company occasions. 

Late suppers are served by some who have the late din- 
ners, but unless they sit up very much later, the practice 
must soon affect them very injuriously. For supper, or tea, 
given at the usual hours, say from six to eight o'clock, the 
bill of fare suggested for breakfast may serve in substance. 
The later the supper the lighter it should be. Strong tea 
or coffee should not be used near bed-time if sound sleep 
is desired. 

Specimen bills of fare are given below. They are in suit- 
able form for the hostess to follow, and also for the printer 
to follow if it be desired to produce either of them in type. 

MENU. 
Breakfast. 



Fine Hominy 

French R0II3 
Tea 

Or, in this form 



Beefsteak 

Buckwheat Cakes 
Coffee 



Buttered Toast 
Potatoes a la Creme 
Chocolate 



Breakfast. 
Broiled Spring Chickens 



Parker House Rolls ' 




Saratoga Potatoes 


Scrambled Eggs 


Rye and Indian Loaf 


Fried Oysters 


Coffee 


Tea 


Chocolate 


Or, in this form : 


Breakfast 




iVhite Fish 


Muffins 


Potatoet 


Fried Ham 




Egg Omelette 


Coffee 


Tea 


Chocolate 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



THE BILL OF FARE. 



343 



For lunches, the menu may take either of the forms 
which now follow. 

Lunch Party 

Beef-tea served in small porcelain cups 

Cold Chicken, Oyster, and other Croquettes 

Chicken Salad Minced Ham Sandwiches 

Scalloped Oysters 

Tutti Frutti Chocolate Cream 

Cake-basket of Mixed Cake 

Mulled Chocolate 

Mixed Pickles Biscuits, etc. 

Ice-cream and Charlottes 




Or. in this form : 

Oyster-pie 



Lunch Party 
Boiled Partridge 



Cold Ham 

Sweet Pickles Sandwiches 

Pound and Fruit-cake Pyramids of Wine Jelly 

Blanc Mange Snow Jelly 

Pineapple Flummery 

Kisses Macaroons Ice-cream 



For dinners either of the following forms will answer. 

Dinner 

First Course 

Oyster Soup with Celery 



Croquettes of Rice 
Vegetables 



Mince Pie 



Macaroni 



Cheese 



Second Course 
Roast Turkey 

Third Course 

Quail on Toast 
Pickles 

Dessert 

Almond Pudding 
Fruits 
Coffee 



Sweet and Irish Potatoes 



Escalloped Tomatoe* 
Jelly 



Lemon Pi« 



Nuts 




MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 






£44 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 

Or, in this form : 





Dinner 




First Course 


Raw Oysters 


White and Brown Sou> 




Second Course 


Boiled White Fish with Sauce and Sliced Lemon* 




Third Course 




Roast Beef 




Fourth Course 


Roast Turkey 


Ducks 


Vegetables in Season 


Croquettes of Rice or Horniny 


Cranberry Sauce 


Currant Jelly 




Dessert 


Cream Custard 


Lemon Pie 


Fruit 


Nuts 




Coffee 



For tea, the order below will be found valuable : 
Tea Company 

Chocolate 

Chicken Salad 



Tea 
Oyster Sandwiches 



Coffee 
Biscuits 



Cold Tongue 

Cake and Preserves 

[Ice-cream and Cake later in the evening] 



Or, in this form : 



Tea Company 



Muffins 



Tea, Coffee, or Chocolate 
Scalloped or Fried Oysters 

Sliced Turkey and Ham 

Cold Biscuits 

Sardines and Sliced Lemons 

Thin Slices of Bread Rolled Sliced Pressed Meats 

Cake in Variety 



THE BILL OF FARE. 

For more substantial supper serve as below ; 



345 



Cold Roast Turkey 

Ham Croquettes 

Charlotte Russe 
Chocolate Cake 



Supper 



Quail on Toast 



Mixed Cakes 

Fruit 

Coffee and Chocolate 



Chicken Salad 

Fricasseed Oysters 
Vanilla Cream 

Cocoanut Cake 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 




Or, in this form : 



Supper 



Oyster Patties 



Dressed Celery 



Cold Roast Partridges or Ducks 

Cold Boiled Ham 

Oysters or Minced Ham Sandwiches 

Raw Oysters Chicken Croquettes or Fricasseed Oystere 

Wine Jelly Ice-cream Biscuit Glace Cakes 

Fruits Chocolate Coffee 

Pickles and Biscuits 



Another authority suggests for supper and luncheons 
the following suitable dishes from which to make choice, 
namely : 

Soups, sandwiches of ham, tongue, dried sausage, or 
beef; anchovy, toast or husks; potted beef, lobster, or 
cheese ; dried salmon, lobster, crayfish, or oysters ; poached 
eggs ; patties ; pigeon pies ; sausages ; toast with marrow 
(served on a water plate), cheesecakes ; puffs, mashed or 
scalloped potatoes, brocoli ; asparagus, sea-kale with toast, 
creams, jellies, preserved or dried fruits, salad, radishes, etc. 

If a more substantial supper is required, it may consist of 
fish, poultry, game; slices of cold meat; pies of chickens, 
pigeons, or game ; lamb or mutton chops ; cold poultry, 
broiled with high seasoning, or fricasseed ; rations or toasted 
cheese, etc. 




MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 





a. 



346 



HO USE HOLD MANA GEMENT. 



And now, what more on bills of fare does the good house- 
wife need ? Possibly she needs some hints as to cold 
lunches for wash-days, house-cleaning times, and other days 
of extra work. She shall have a few such hints : 

PLAIN HOME LUNCHEONS. 

No. 1. — Cold corn-beef, nicely sliced ; baked potatoes ; 
bread, butter, and pickles. Dessert — mince pie and cheese. 

No. 2. — Chicken pie, baked potatoes ; rolled bread or bis- 
cuit. Dessert — cake and custard. 

No. 3. — First course: Raw oysters, with lemon and 
crackers. Second course : Cold veal, with jelly and Sara- 
toga potatoes, bread, and butter. Dessert — pie with cheese. 

No. 4. — Casserole of fish, with mushroom catsup ; bread 
and butter. Dessert — cherry pie with cheese. 

Possibly some hints as to economical dishes for dinner 
may be of service. Such hints, adapted to each day of the 
week, are added to render this needed service. 

DINNER FOR EVERY DAY. 
Sunday. — Roast beef, potatoes, and greens. Dessert — 
pudding or pie, cheese. 

Monday. — Hashed beef, potatoes, and bread-pudding. 

Tuesday. — Broiled beef, vegetables, apple-pudding. 

Wednesday. — Boiled pork, beans, potatoes, greens, and 
pie, or rice-pudding. 

Thursday. — Roast or broiled fowl, cabbage, potatoes, lemon 
pie, cheese. 

Friday. — Fish, potato croquettes, escalloped tomatoes, 
pudding. 

Saturday. — A la mode beef, potatoes, vegetables, suet-pud- 
ding and mince pie, cheese. 



THE BILL OF FARE. 



347 



As one who attempts to master the many dishes at the 
table of a great hotel finds himself worsted, so the house- 
wife who attempts at once to master the foregoing sugges- 
tions will find herself. Patient and repeated attention, how- 
ever, will master the whole. 

QUANTITY OF PROVISION NEEDED.. 

What quantity of the standard articles must be provided 
for entertainments ? This question is a practical one of no 
small importance. Nobody wishes to run short at a com- 
pany, nor does a prudent person care to waste good food. 
How then shall estimates be made which can be fairly 
depended on ? Experience shows the following general 
principles to hold good. 

It is safe to assume that of one hundred and fifty invited 
guests, but two-thirds of the number will be present. If 
five hundred are invited, not more than three hundred can 
be counted upon as accepting. Smaller numbers will be 
more largely represented in proportion. 

Allow one quart of oysters to every three persons present. 
Five chickens, or, what is better, a ten-pound turkey, boiled 
and minced, and fifteen heads of celery, are enough for 
chicken salad for fifty guests ; allow one gallon of ice-cream 
to every twenty guests ; one hundred and thirty sandwiches 
for one hundred guests ; and six to ten quarts of wine jelly 
for each hundred. 

For a company of twenty, allow three chickens for salad ; 
one hundred pickled oysters ; two molds of Charlotte 
russe ; one gallon of cream, and four dozen biscuits. 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 





CURIOUS DISHES AND BILLS OF FARE. 

A recent French fancy is a deep dish of mashed potato 
filled with hot broiled plover or snipe, and then hidden in a 
grove of parsley sprigs and celery tops stuck into the 



MEMORANDUM 

ON 

FRIENDS' RECIPES 



SIS 



HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 





potato. It comes to the table looking as green and tresK 
as a salad. But the salad is still to come ; you have simply 
struck a fresh covey of birds. 

A royal Chinese banquet was tendered Sir Thomas Bras- 
sey, M. P., at Macao, March 6th, 1877. The following was 
the menu of that entertainment : 

BILL OF FARE : 
Four Courses of Small Bozvls, one to each guest, viz. ; 
Birds' -nest Soup, Pigeons' Eggs, 
Ice-fungus (said to grow in icej, Sharks' Fins (chopped). 

Eight Large Bowls, viz. ; 

Stewed Sharks' Fins, Fine Shell Fish, Mandarin Birds' -nest, 

Canton Fish Maw, Fish Brain, Meat Balls with Rock Fungus, 

Pigeons Stewed with Wai Shan (a strengthening herb), Stewed Mushroom. 

Four Dishes, viz. : 
Sliced Ham, Roast Mutton, Fowls, Roast Sucking Pig. 

One Large Dish, viz. ■ 

Boiled Rock Fish. 

Eight Small Bowls, viz. : 

Stewed Pig's Palate, Minced Quails, Stewed Fungus (another description), 

Sinews of the Whale Fish, Rolled Roast Fowl, Sliced Teals, 

Stewed Duck's Paw, Peas Stewed. 

A stylish Japanese dinner was served with the following 

BILL OF FARE: 

Soup, 

Shrimps and Seaweed ; 

Praws, Egg Omelette, and Preserved Grapes ; 

Fried Fish, Spinach, Young Rushes, and Young Ginger ; 

Raw Fish, Mustard and Cress, Horseradish and Soy; 

Thick Soup of Eggs, Fish, Mushrooms and Spinach, Grilled Fish; 

Fried Chicken and Bamboo Shoots, 

Turnip Tops and Root Pickled, 

Rice ad libitum in a large bowl, 

Hot Said, Pipes, and Tea. 



INDEX 





PAGE 




PAGE 


Advice to Housekeepers 


254 


Beef, Minced 


73 


Anchovy Sauce 


108 


Roat>t 


7i 


Angel's Food 


196 


Savory 


73 


Apees 


183 


Soup 


37 


Appleade . 


253 


Soup with Okra 


38 


Apple Butter 


218 


Spiced 


72 


Dumplings 


165 


Stew 


74 


Fritters . 


114 


Tea 


248 


Pie . 


150 


Beefsteak, Broiled 


75 


Snow 


175 


Pudding . 


76 


■ Water 


253 


Stuffed . 


75 


Apple Float 


204 


with Onions 


75 


Meringue Pie . 


150 


with Tomatoes 


75 


Sauce 


204 


Beer, Ginger 


240 


Transparent 


204 


Quick 


241 


Apples, Baked . 


204 


Spruce 


241 


Roast 


253 


Beets, Salad 


281 


Arrow- root Broth 


251 


Boiled 


96 


Jelly 


250 


Beverages 


234 


Artichokes, Boiled 


99 


Bill of Fare 


334 


Asparagus, Boiled 


96 


Bird Trussed for Roasting 


321 


Sauce 


106 


Biscuit 


136 


Bacon, Broiled or Fried 


89 


Cream 


J 37 


Bananas and Cream, 


205 


Light 


137 


Fried 


205 


Potato 


137 


Barley Bread 


133 


Tea 


137 


Water 


252 


Flavored 


138 


Beans, Baked . 


96 


Glace 


178 


Boiled 


95 


Graham 


13S 


Lima 


95 


Maryland 


138 


String 


95 


Short 


138 


Bean Soup 


39 


Soda 


137 


Beef 


70 


Yorkshire 


138 


a. la Mode 


72 


Blackberry Mush 


164 


Cakes 


282 


Sirup 


253 


Corned . 


74 


Blanc-mange 


175 


Curried . 


73 


Chocolate 


176 


Cutting up 


305 


Corn Starch 


176 


Deviled . 


73 


Neopolitan 


176 


Beef, Extract of 


44 


Tapioca . 


175 


Hash 


■ 73 


Boston Brown Bread . 


130 


Loaf 


2S3 


Brandied Peaches 


217 



349-M 



35° 


INDEX 






PAGE 




PAGE 


Brandy, Cherry 


240 


Cake, Farmer's Fruit 


191 


Raspberry 


240 


Fig . 


188 


Sauce 


no 


Fruit 


190 


Bread 


126 


Gold 


186 


Brown 


129 


Hickorynut 


189 


Corn 


130 


Ice-cream 


194 


Fancy 


132 


Jelly 


192 


Graham . 


130 


Lincoln 


186 


Milk 


I2S 


Loaf Dutch 


180 


Potato 


128 


Marble . 


194 


Pumpkin 


133 


Molasses 


181 


Rice 


130 


Moravian 


186 


Rye 


129 


Neapolitan 


195 


Salt Rising 


128 


New Year's 


189 


Unleavened 


130 


One, two, three, fou 


r 185 


Vienna 


129 


Orange 


194 


Wheat . 


127 


Peach 


192 


Stuffing for Fish 


60 


Pinafore . 


186 


Breakfast Cocoa 


238 


Pineapple 


192 


Breast of Veal . 


308 


Plum 


190 


Brisket 


306 


Poor Man's 


186 


Broma 


238 


Pound 


•187 


Broth, Chicken 


249 


Puff 


185 


Mutton 


38, 249 


Silver 


186 


Brown Betty 


162 


Snow 


188 


Browned Flour for Soups 


45 


Spice 


188 


Buckwheat Cakes 


143 


Sponge . 


187 


Bun, Cinnamon 


181 


Tea 


185 


Buns 


139 


Tumbler . 


185 


Hot Cross 


139 


Union 


194 


Butter, Apple 


218 


Walnut . 


189 


Peach 


218 


Washington 


187 


Sauce 


109 


Watermelon 


] 95 


Scotch . 


243 


Wedding 


190 


Cabbage a la Cauliflower 


98 


White Mountain 


193 


Boiled 


98 


White Pound . 


187 


Salad 


103 


Wine 


188 


Cafe Noir . 


236 


Cake Baking 


179 


Cake, Almond Sponge 


187 


Cakes, Buckwheat 


143 


Black 


190 


Cinnamon 


183 


Bread 


181 


Flannel . 


144 


Chocolate 


191 


Groundnut 


246 


Cider 


185 


Hominy . 


145 


Cinnamon 


183 


Indian Griddle 


145 


Citron 


1S9 


Knickerbocker 


182 


Cocoanut 


189, 193 


Lemon 


183 


Coffee 


188 


Potato 


93 


Cork 


186 


Seed 


183 


Cream 


193 


Shrewsberry 


182 


Cream Sponge 


187 


Sugar 


182 


Cup . ' . 


186 


Rice 


144 


Currant . 


189 


Sour Milk 


145 


Delicate . 


193 


Walnut . 


183 



INDEX 



35r 



Calf's Liver or Heart 

Tongue . 
Candied Fruits . 

Nuts 
Candy, Almond 
Cocoanut 
Cream 
Ice-cream 
Molasses . 
Peanut 
Canned Asparagus 
Beans 
Corn 
Canned Corn Cakes 
Corn Soup 
Corn Pudding 
Gooseberries 
Grapes 
Pea Soup . 
Peaches . 
Pears 
Pineapple 
Plums 

Strawberries 
Tomatoes 
Canvas-back Duck 
Caper Sauce 
Capons 

Caramels, Chocolate 
Carving 

Calf's Head 
Turkey 

Broiled Chickens 
Fish 
Ham 

Roast Beef 
Roast Chicken 
Roast Ducks and Geese 
Roast Pig 
Roast of Lamb 
Roast Rabbit . 
Roasts of Mutton 
Roasts of Venison 
Small Birds 
Steaks 
Tongue 
Catfish, Fried . 
Catsup, Grape . 

Green Tomato 
Mushroom 
Oyster 
Tomato 
Walnut . 
Cauliflower, Boiled 



80 Celery Sauce 

81 Stewed . 
205 Charlotte Russe 
244 Cheek or Jowl . 
244 Cheese-cake Pie 
243 Chicken, Broiled 
243 Broth 
243 Croquettes 
243 Fraicasseed 
246 Fried 
223 Jellied 
223 Jelly 
223 Panada 
295 Pie . 
295 Pot-pie 
295 Pressed 

221 Roast 

222 Smothered 
295 Stewed 

221 Trussed for Roasting 

222 Salad 
222 Chili Sauce 106 

222 Chinese Bill of Fare 
221 Choca 

223 Chocolate . 
66 Creams 

107 Frothed 

69 Chow-chow 
244 Chowder, Fish 
315 Chuck Ribs 
325 Cinnamon Cakes 
317 Clam Chowder 
321 Fritters 

325 Soup 

323 Clams, Deviled 

321 Stewed 
320 Cleaning a Shad 

320 Cocoanut Steeples 

323 Cocoa Shells 

322 Cod, Baked 

324 Coffee 

322 Ice-cream 

323 Iced 

321 Meringued 

324 Cold Golden Buck 
.325 Coldslaw . 

51 Cookery Books, on 

231 History of 
230 Cookies 
233 Soft 

232 Cocoanut 

230 Cooking, Art of 

231 Cooking, Object of 
98 Schools of 



106 

99 
177 
306 
152 

63 

249 

112 

64 

64 

65 
249 

251 
64 
65 
65 
63 
64 

63 
320 
104 
231 
348 
238 

237 
245 
237 
230 

51 
306 
183 

59 
115 

50 

5o 

44 

60 
198 
238 

48 
236 
283 
236 
236 
281 
102 

28 

18 
182 
183 
184 

17 
17 
28 



352 



INDEX 



Cooking, Science of . 


PAGE 

17 


Dinners, Every-day . 


PAGE 

346 


Utensils, Ancient 


24 


Doughnuts 


184 


Corn, Baked 


95 


Drawn Butter . 


109 


Boiled Green . 


95 


Dressed Eggs 


281 


Fritters . 


113 


Dressing, plain French 


108 


Soup 


40 


Dried Pea Soup 


40 


C©rn Beef, Boiled 


74 


Duck, Canvas-back . 


66 


Beef Soup 


38 


Properly Trussed 


■*20 


Cornstarch Blanc -mange 


176 


Roast 


66 


Costly Entertainments 


25, 33 


Dumplings, Apple 


165 


Crabs. Scalloped 


59 


Drop 


45 


Cracked Wheat 


251 


Lemon 


165 


Cracker Panada 


251 


Peach 


165 


Cranberry Sauce 


107 


Dutch Cake 


180 


Cream, Chocolate Bavariat 


1 170 


East India Pickle 


229 


Chocolates 


245 


Eclairs a la Creme 


199 


Dates 


246 


Eels, Fried 


5i 


Fritters 




ii5 


Egg Balls . 


125 


Italian 




169 


Baskets . 


122 


Orange 




170 


Cream 


250 


Pink 




170 


Gruel 


250 


Puffs 




197 


Nog 


238 


Sauce 




no 


Raw 


250 


Spanish 




169 


Sandwiches 


124 


Tapioca 




170 


Toast 


122 


Turret 




171 


Eggs 


117 


Velvet 




171 


a la Mode 


120 


Walnuts 




246 


Baked 


120 


Whipped 


169 


Boiled 


118 


Cream and Jellies 


166 


Boiled, with Sauce 


119 


Creamed Tomato Toast 


294 


Curried . 


123 


Croquettes and Fritters 


in 


Deviled . 


125 


Chicken . 


112 


Fricaseed 


122 


Hominy . 


in 


Pickled . 


125 


Lobster . 


H3 


Poached . 


119 


Oyster 


112 


Scrambled 


121 


Oyster Plant . 


112 


Soft Boiled 


249 


Potato 


112 


Steamed . 


120 


Rice 


in 


Sur le Plat 


121 


Veal 


112 


Toasted . 


121 


Crullers 


184 


Whirled . 


120 


Crimpets 


142 


Eggplant, Baked 


9 S 


Cucumber Pickles 


225 


Fried 


98 


Cucumbers, Sliced 


101 


Family Breakfast in Season 


339 


Crystallized Fruit 


205 


Family Dinners in Season 


34o 


Cup Custard 


160 


Fancy Breads 


132 


Curious Dishes 


347 


Fig Paste . 


246 


Currant Fritters 


114 


Figs a la Genevieve . 


178 


Custard, Chocolate 


161 


Filet of Veal . 


3°7 


Rice 


161 


Fish Balls . 


52 


Dates, Cream 




246 


Chowder . 


5i 


Deserts 




166 


in Season 


60 


Deviled Eggs 




125 


Omelet . 


124 


Lobster 




57 


Oysters, etc. 


46 



INDEX 



353 



Fish White 
Fishturner 
Flannel Cakes 
Flaxseed Tea 
Flint Pickles 
Floating Island 
Food in Season 
Forks 
French Fritters 

Pickle 

Rolls 

Straws 
Fritters and Croquett' 
Fritters, Apple 

Bread 

Clam 

Corn 

Cream 

Currant 

French 

Fruit 

Hominy 

Oyster 

Parsnip 

Plain 

Potato 

Rice 

Spanish 

Venetian 
Frosting, Cocoanut 

Cooked 
Prothed Cafe au Lait 
Fruit Crystallized 

Fritters 
Fruits, Candied 

Frozen 

Nuts, etc. 
Game and Poultry 

in Jelly 

How to Keep 
Garnishes 
Gingerbread 
Ginger Beer 

Snaps 
Golden Buck, Cold 
Goose, Roast 

Trussed for Roasting 
Grapes in Brandy 
Gravy 

Green Pea Soup 
Greens, Boiled . 
Griddle Cakes . 

Graham . 



PAGE. 

49 
285 
144 

253 
228 

175 
336 
283 
115 
229 

135 
184 
in 
114 
113 
115 
113 
115 
114 

115 
114 
114 

115 

114 

113 
113 
114 
116 
116 
200 
200 

237 

205 

114 

205 

169 

201 

61 

68 

69 

33i 

181 

240 

182 

281 

66 

320 

217 

69 

40 

99 
142 

143 



Griddle, Indian 


145 


Groundnut Cakes, 


246 


Gruel, Egg 


250 


Indian-meal 


250 


Oatmeal . 


250 


Gumbo Soup 


41 


Gum Drops 


246 


Halibut, Baked 


4§ 


Boiled 


48 


Cutlets . 


47 


Ham and Eggs . 


58 


Baked 


88 


Boiled 


87 


Glazed 


88 


Toast 


88 


Hard Sauce 


no 


Head of Veal 


308 


Heart of Beef 


307 


Heart, Baked . 


74 


Hoe Cake 


133 


Hominy, Boiled 


100 


Cakes 


145 


Croquettes 


in 


Fritters . 


114 


Horseradish, Plain 


105 


Sauce 


105 


Hot Cakes 


126 


Cross Buns 


139 


Ice-cream, Chocolate 


168 


Freezers . 


295 


Lemon 


167 


Orange 


167 


Peach 


168 


Pineapple 


168 


Raspberry 


168 


Strawberry 


168 


Vanilla . 


167 


Icing, Almond, 


200 


Banana . 


200 


Chocolate 


199 


Lemon 


199 


Orange 


199 


Imperial 


241 


Indian Griddle Cakes 


145 


Invalid Diet 


24S 


Irish Stew 


84 


Italian Cream 


169 


Jam, Barberry 


213 


Blackberry 


213 


Cherry 


213 


Damson . 


214 


Green Gage 


214 


Raspberry 


213 



354 


INDEX 






PAGE. 




PAGE. 


Jam, Strawberry 


21,3 


Lobster, Deviled 


57 


White Currant 


213 


Patties 


58 


Jams 


207 


Salad 


105 


Japanese Bill of Fare 


34® 


Sauce 


108 


Jellied Chicken 


65 


Soup 


43 


Oranges 


172 


Stewed 


57 


Jellies 


166, 207 


Loin of Mutton 


308 


Jelly, Apple 


173, 210 


Veal 


307 


Barberry 


211 


Love Knots 


185 


Black Currant 


210 


Lunch Party Menu . 


343 


Calf's Foot 


172 


Macaroni, Baked 


100 


Crab-Apple 


210 


Soup 


42 


Currant . 


209 


Stewed 


100 


Grape 


211 


with Tomatoes 


100 


Lemon 


174 


Macaroons 


196 


Orange 


174 


Chocolate 


197 


Peach 


173 


Marketing 


304 


Raspberry 


211 


Marmalade, Apple 


211 


Roll 


192 


Grape 


212 


Wine 


172 


Orange 


212 


Wine Currant . 


210 


Peach 


212 


Quince 


211 


Pear 


211 


Johnny Cake 


133 


Pineapple 


212 


Jujube Paste 


247 


Quince 


211 


Julien Soup 


42 


Maryland Coldslaw . 


103 


Jumbles 


183 


Stewed Oysters 


53 


Currant . 


184 


Mayonnaise Sauce 


109 


Kidney, Beef 


307 


Mead 


241 


Broiled 


81 


Meat Balls, for Soup 


45 


Kisses 


197 


Omelet 


124 


Kitchens . 


361 


Menu, for Breakfast . 


342 


Lady Fingers 


198 


for Dinner 


343 


Lamb and Mutton 


82 


for Supper 


345 


Lamb 


310 


for Tea Company 


344 


Chops, Breaded 


85 


Meringue, Peach 


176 


Broiled 


85 


Meringues 


198 


Roast 


S 4 


Milk, Porridge 


252 


Saddle of 


84 


Thickened 


252 


Steaks, Fried . 


85 


Mince Pie 


152 


Stewed in Butter 


84 


Mint Sauce 


106 


Leeks, Boiled . 


97 


Mock Fried Oysters . 


IOI 


Leg of Beef 


306 


Terrapin 


58 


Lamb, Boiled . 


84 


Turtle Soup . 


4i 


Mutton 


308 


Molasses Candy 


243 


Mutton, Boiled 


83 


Muffins 


140 


Pork, Roasted 


87 


Bread 


141 


Veal 


307 


Corn 


141 


Lemonade 


238 


Graham . 


141 


Lemon Sauce 


107 


Hominy . 


141 


Lettuce Salad . 


103 


Rice 


141 


Lima Beans 


95 


Mushroom Sauce 


107 


Lobster, Boiled 


57 


Mushrooms, Broiled . 


99 


Croquettes 


113 


Stewed 


99 



INDEX 



355 



Mustard, Mixed . . 105 

Mutton, Choosing . . 308 

and Green Peas . 83 

Broth . 38, 249 

Chops, Broiled . 83 

Dressed like Venison 83 

Roast ... 82 

New England Chowder . 52 

Noodles, Home-made . 45 

Nursery Stove . . 273 

Nut Cracker ... 287 

Nutmegs . . . 203 

Nuts . . . 201, 206 

Oak Balls . . . 165 

Okra in Beef Soup . . 38 

Omelet, Baked . . 123 

a la Mode . . 124 

Cheese . . . 124 

Meat or Fish . . 124 

Plain . . . 123 

with Oysters . . 124 

Onion Soup ... 40 

Onions, Boiled ... 97 

Fried ... 97 

Pickled ... 226 

Oranges . . . 203 

Orange and Cocoanut . 203 

Desert . . . 174 

Trifle . . . 174 

Oyster, Cream ... 54 

Croquettes . . 112 

Fritters . . . 115 

Macaroni . . 56 

Omelet . . .55, 124 

Patties . . . 56 

Pie ... 56 

Sauce . . . 108 

Toast ... 54 

Oyster Plant Croquettes 112 

Stewed 101 

Oysters, Fish, etc. . . 46 

Broiled ... 54 

Fried ... 54 

Mock Fried . . 101 

Panned ... 53 

Roasted ... 54 

Scalloped . 55 

Spiced or Pickled . 55 

Stewed ... 53 

Ox-tail Soup ... 38 

Panada, Bread . . . 251 

Chicken . . . 251 

Panned Oysters . . 53 



Parsnip Fritters 


114 


Parsnips, Boiled 


97 


Fried 


97 


Partridges, Roast 


67 


Paste Shells 


150 


Pastry . . . . 


148 


Pea Pancakes . 


296 


Peach Dumplings 


165 


Peach Ice Cream 


283 


Peaches, Fried 


204 


Frosted . 


203 


Preserved 


214 


Sliced 


203 


Stewed 


203 


Pears, Baked 


205 


Canned . 


222 


Peas, Boiled Green 


96 


Pepper Hash 


228 


Peppermint Drops 


247 


Perch, Fried 


50 


Pheasants, Roast 


67 


Piccallilly 


229 


Pickled Beets . 


227 


Peppers . 


228 


Eggs 


125 


Garlic and Eschalot 


3 226 


Mushrooms 


« 227 


Nasturtions 


226 


Onions 


226 


Oysters . 


55 


Red Cabbage . 


227 


Salmon . 


50 


Walnuts . 


226 


Watermelon 


226 


Pickle, East India 


229 


French 


229 


Pickles and Catsups . 


224 


Cucumber 


225 


Sweet 


230 


Sweet Tomato 


230 


Pie-crust 


149 


Glace 


149 


Pie, Apple 


150 


Apple Meringue 


150 


Cheese-cake 


152 


Cherry 


151 


Cocoanut 


152 


Cream 


152 


Custard . 


152 


Gooseberry 


151 


Lemon 


152 


Mince 


152 


Orange 


152 



356 



INDEX 



Pie, Oyster 


56 


Peach 


150 


Peach Meringue 


150 


Pumpkin 


151 


Rhubarb 


151 


Sweet Potato . 


151 


Pigeons, Roast 


66 


Pig, Roast 


S6 


Pin Bone 


306 


Pineapples 


203 


Pone 


133 


Pop Overs 


140 


Pork 


85 


Boiled 


90 


Cutlets . 


87 


. Roast 


86 


Tenderloins, Baked 


87 


Porridge, Milk . 


252 


Potato Biscuit . 


137 


Croquets 


112 


Fritters . 


^3 


Salad 


104 


Potatoes, Boiled, Sweet 


93 


Fried 


93 


Fried, Sweet . 


93 


Mashed . 


92 


Roasted , Sweet 


93 


Roasted, White 


92 


Roasted with Meats 


92 


Saratoga 


93 


Boiled, White 


92 


Stewed 


93 


Potted Provisions 


2S2 


Pot-pie, Chicken 


65 


Veal 


78 


Poultry 


312 


and Game 


61 


Preserved Cherries 


216 


Citron 


216 


Damsons 


216 


Green Gages . 


216 


Peaches . 


214 


Pears 


215 


Pineapples 


215 


Quinces . 


215 


Strawberries 


216 


Watermelon Rind 


215 


Preserves 


207 


Pressed Chicken 


65 


Provision for Guests . 


347 


Pudding, Almond 


160 


Apple 


159 


Apple Batter . 


154 



Pudding, Arrow Root 

Baked Hasty . 

Baked Indian . 

Batter 

Bird's Nest 

Bread 

Cabinet . 

Cherry 

Chocolate 

Cocoanut 

Corn 

Cottage . 

Delicious 

Delmonico 

English Plum . 

Farina 

Fruit Bread 

Hasty 

Jelly 

Lemon 

Minute 

Orange 

Paradise 

Plain Tapioca . 

Poor Man's Plum 

Queen's 

Rennet 

Rice 

Sago 

Berry or Fruit 

Snow 

Spice 

Suet 

Tapioca and Apple 

Vermicelli 
Puff Paste 
Puffs, Cream 

German 

Indian 

White 
Pumpkin Bread 

Pie 
Punch, Milk 

Roman 
Quail on Toast 
Quails, Roast 
Quick Beer 
Quinces 
Rabbit, Fried 

Roast 

Trussed for Roasting 
Raspberry Float 

Vinegar 



157 
155 
161 

154 
163 
159 
163 
164 
161 
157 
155 
158 

163 
160 
162 
156 
159 
155 
162 

158 
155 
159 
162 

156 
162 
161 
158 
157 
157 
164 
164 
162 
154 
156 
156 
149 
197 
165 
165 
165 
133 
151 
239 
239 
67 
67 
241 
205 
67 
67 
324 
283 
240 



INDEX 



357 





PAGE. 


Raw Egg 


25O 


Rhubarb, Stewed 


205 


Rice, Boiled 


ICO 


Cakes 


144 


Croquettes 


III 


Fritters . 


114 


Milk 


252 


Rockfish, Boiled 


48 


Roley-poley 


I64 


Rolls 


134 


Breakfast 


134 


English . 


134 


French 


135 


Geneva . 


136 


Parker House . 


135 


Plain 


134 


Vienna 


135 


Royal Displays 


332 


Rusk 


136 


Rusk and Milk 


282 


Sweet 


139 


Tea 


138 


Sago 


250 


Salad, Cabbage 


I03 


Chicken . 


I04 


Lettuce . 


IO3 


Potato 


I04 


Salmon 


I05 


Salads and Sauces 


I02 


Sally Lunn 


132 


Salmon Baked . 


49 


Broiled 


49 


Steaks, Fried . 


50 


Boiled 


49 


Pickled . 


50 


Salt Pork, Broiled 


89 


Sandwiches, Egg 


124 


Saratoga Potatoes 


93 


Sardine Salad 


297 


Sandwiches 


297 


Sardines au Gratin . 


296 


Sauce, Anchovy 


108 


Asparagus 


106 


Boiled Egg 


109 


Brandy 


no 


Butter 


109 


Caper 


107 


Celery 


106 


Chili 


106 


Cranberry 


107 


Cream 


no 


Drawn Butter . 


109 


Hard 


no 



Sauce, Horseradish . 


105. 


Lemon 


107 


Mayonnaise 


109 


Mint 


106 


Mushroom 


107 


Oyster 


108 


Strawberry 


107 


Tomato . 


105 


Vanilla 


108 


Venison . 


108 


White 


no 


Wine 


no 


Sauces in General 


no 


Sausage, Fried . 


89 


Meat 


89 


Baked 


89 


Scalloped Crabs 


59 


Corn 


294 


Oysters . 


55 


Tomatoes 


294 


Scallops 


60 


Scrappel 


90 


Serving Meals . 


326 


Slapjacks 


145 


Smoked Salmon 


49 


Snipe, Roast 


66 


Shad, Baked 


47 


Broiled 


47 


Sherbet 


240 


Shin of Beef, Stewed 


74 


Veal 


30S 


Short-cake, Scotch 


133 


Strawberry 


153 


Shoulder of Veal 


308 


Shrub, Currant and Ras 


Dberry 239 


Soaking Salt Fish 


60 


Soft-shell Crabs 


59 


Soup, Bean 


39 


Beef 


37 


Chicken . 


43 


Clam 


44 


Consomme 


298 


Corn 


40 


Corned Beef 


38 


Cream Tomatoe 


294 


Dried Pea 


40 


Green Pea 


40 


Gumbo . 


4i 


Julien 


42 


Lobster . 


43 


Macaroni 


42 


Mock Turtle . 


297, 4i 


Mutton Broth . 


. 298 



358 



INDEX 



^ 



Ss 





PAGE. 


Soup, Onion 


40 


Ox Tail 


38 


Portable 


44 


Southern Gumbo 


42 


Tomato 


39 


Turkey . 


43 


Vegetable 


38 


Vermicelli 


42 


White 


43 


Soups, Soup Stock, etc. 


35 


Sour Milk Cakes 


145 


Souse 


90 


Spanish Cream 


169 


Fritters . 


116 


Spare-rib Roast 


86 


Spiced or Pickled Oysters . 


55 


Peaches . 


217 


Spinach, Boiled 


99 


Spruce Beer 


241 


Squash, Boiled 


97 


Fried 


97 


Strawberries in Wine 


217 


Strawberry Sauce 


107 


String Beans 


95 


Stuffing, Oyster 


69 


Plain 


69 


Potato 


69 


Succotash 


95 


Sweetbreads, Broiled 


81 


Stewed 


81 


Sweet Pickles . 


230 


Syllabub 


169 


Table Ornaments 


328 


Taffy, Butter 


245 


Lemon 


245 


Tapers 


382 


Tarts 


153 


Tea 


235 


a la Russe 


236 


Baskets . 


153 


Beef 


248 


Flaxseed . 


253 


Iced 


235 


Iced, a la Russe 


236 


Terrapin . 


58 


Toast 


131 


Buttered . 


131 


Cream 


131 


Dry 


131 


Egg 


131 


French 


131 


Milk 


131 


Oyster 


54 



Toast Soft 

Water 
Tomatoes, a la creme 

and Beefsteak 

Baked Sliced 

Baked whole 

Broiled 

Fried 

Stewed 
Tomato Catsup 

Sauce 

Sauce, Green 

Soup 

Soy 
Tongue, Boiled 

Calf's 
Trout, Fried 

Stewed 
Turkey, Boiled . 

Boned 

Roast 

Soup 
Turnips, Boiled 
Tutti Frutti 
Vanilla Sauce . 
Veal 

Boiled, Filet 

Croquettes 

Cutlets, Broiled 

Cutlets in Cracker 

Hash 

Loaf 

Minced . 

Pie 

Pot-pie 

Pot-Roasted Fillet 

Pressed . 

Roast 

Scallops 

Stew 

Sweatbread 

with Oysters 

with Rice 

with Peas 
Vegetables 
Vegetable Soup 
Venison 

Sauce 

Steaks, Broiled 
Venetian Fritters 
Vermicelli Soup 
Vinegar, Raspberry 
Waffles 



251 
252 

95 

75 

94 

94 

94 

94 

94. 293 

230 

105 

106 

39 
231 

74 
81 
50 

59 

62 

63 
62 

43 

97 

168 

108 

76, 307 

77 
112 

80 

79 

78 

79 

80 

78 
78 
77 
80 

77 
80 

77 
308 

79 

79 

79 

9 1 . 3 12 

38 

311 

108 

67 

116 

42 

240 

140 



INDEX 



359 



Waffles Raised . 


140 


Rice 


142 


Quick 


142 


Wafers, Scotch 


182 


Water Ices 


168 


Watermelons 


202 


What to Avoid 


330 


Wheat Bread 


127 


Whipped Cream 


169 


White Fish 


49 


Wine, Currant . 


2 39 



Wine, Raspberry 


240 


Sauce 


no 


Whey 


253 


Yeast and Yeast Cakes 


145 


Brewers 


146 


Compressed 


147 


Hop 


146 


Patent 


147 


Potato 


147 


Yorkshire Pudding with Beef 71 






0i 



V 



\Q|^ 



LBFe'!2 



